STAGE 2 TUNING

STAGE 2 TUNING
Newfag here I just recently purchased a 2015 STI, and I’m wanting to get a stage 2 tune. I just got into cars and I’m wondering can I just go to a Cobb store and buy the accessport and have them do it? Or do I need to buy one of the tuning packages off of Subispeed?

OP you'd better start sucking stage 2 cock

Warranty void
Don’t buy off subispeed

Get a protune instead. A cobb off the shelf map is a base tune everyone uses but not all act the same given climate differences.

Then would it matter what stage it is?

Stage is a made up thing desu, learn what things actually do

this
Stages literally dont exist

its literally idiot normie speak for "X will get you to x level of performance"
Example
>stage 1 300awhp
>stage 2 450awhp
>stage 3+
etc

Given its only a Subaru they are simple to mod just do some research put together a parts list.

If your a complete noob go buy a game like automation and those mechanic simulators to teach you about cars

LITERALLY and figuratively THIS

for an STI
>Accessport
>Down pipe
>TGR/EGV deletes
>protune
>optional: intake
congrats, you're now at "stage 2", with an STI and depending on the tune you should be pushing around 350-370 to the wheels

>Stage 2 STI

Automotive Syphillis

>it's got stage 2 cams

REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

I'll take my V3 STI over this Stage 2 bullshit anyday.

>I just got into cars
>I just recently purchased a 2015 STI
Please equinox a tree and not some poor sap on the road.

Tgv or tumble generator valves primary function is to swirl the the air while injecting fuel, causing a more complete fuel air mixture with even saturation .

Removing them is hella stupid especially because, with a turbo you can just turn up the boost to make more power.

The only reason people remove them is because they are about $350-$500 to replace each. When faggots like op break them doing whatever it is you faggots do. They opt in to buy the much cheaper delete component, you know because talk nigga broke as fuck.

*surprised when ring lands crack

Op "but I was only turning up the boost to 27psi on my used ububuru"

"It's ok I used e85"

"It's not warranty?"

I hate you dick bags so much

dont fucking buy an accessport. fucking overpriced proprietary bullshit thats gonna suck when it eventually gets stolen by some nigger thinking its an ipod

Wait but on all the subie forums people are getting massive gainzz from TGV/EGR deletes

>stage 2 this and that
>doesn’t know what a tune actually consists of
I can’t be the only one bothered by this

I guess I’m not the only one

By design egr lowers combustion temperature about 2-5 degrees

It has a function.

Just saying.

Where i work, I get paid to fix these blown up shit boxes all day. The price starts at 25 labor hours I takehome $57 per hour.

Please blow it up, and come see me.

Bring your mom and dad.

Don't forget the credit card

How do i get maximum gainzzz from other bolt-ons then?

how do you dumb faggots fall for this shit twice a day every day? Its the same dude, posting the same fucking thread OVER AND OVER. no one just gets into cars, buys an STI and goes stage 2. its a stupid bait thread designed to get you mad.

how can you take this shit seriously? how are you so fucking dumb

No one cares

What's wrong?

Is it not fast enough?

I mean how much faster do you need to really be?

The name of the game is keep it cool.

If I was being cheap o would get

A large front mount intercooler
using the stock recirculation valve and airbox

Any oil cooler about a foot long

Revalved oem injectors around 1000cc

Open or high flow downpipe

You can use a cobb if you want, but take it to a real place with a dyno to have it tuned. Most places are $175-$250 an hour with dyno time.

Turn up the boost 5-9 psi over stock

You will loose a little throttle response buy you may pick up 45 to 65 to.

Decently safe.

If I wanted to spend more I would get some higher lift cams and stiffer valve springs and lighter stronger retainers.
I may use a thicker cosworth head gasket and turn up the boost a little more.

Anything else your gonna need a better fuel pump and regulator.

Or a better turbo.

What's the lifespan of a 2005 WRX with 108k miles (no issues aside from a bit of piston slap on cold starts and a little bit of oil consumption) if I were to get:

Downpipe
3" Exhaust
3 Port Boost Solenoid
STi TMIC (figure it'd help with IATs = Less Knock)
Protune (have like 3-4 shops in the area specializing in Subarus + friend of mine tunes Hondas and has access to a AWD Dyno)?

Just gonna be a daily driver with occasional HPDEs/Track Days. Currently bone stock aside from a STi Catless Upipe I did as preventive maintenance.

Tempted after I saw that $1500 in parts = 55whp (from 175whp for a stock EJ205 to 230-240whp for a "Stage 2" package). Would stay stock TD04 turbo as I know they like to get explodey around the 300whp mark (transmissions, and 320-350whp = rods and bearings, especially rod bearings).

An ej205 with over 100,000 miles on it is already a time bomb.

Save your money for timing belt, plugs, and coilpacks if you live in the rust belt.

I would not mod a car with that many miles, until I replaced the rod and main bearings.

However you do that is up to you. Be it new block or refreshing your own, parts motor on the side ect.

Dyno time on a high mile IED is kind of pointless, unless you just want a baseline before the build.

Don't forget to replace or rebuild the turbo during the engine refresh.

About 8/10 205/255/257 guys come back after blowing up. 5000-25,000 miles later smoking clouds behold them because the seal on the turbo oil galley gets lit up.

Save for when it happens.

>Save your money for timing belt, plugs, and coilpacks if you live in the rust belt.

I already did those except for coilpacks (mine seem fine)

Aside from the really bad piston slap (it goes away once warmed up but the car sounds like a tractor almost like the bearings are shot. Has done it for the last 10,000 miles and before and after doing t-belt tensioner) the car is actually well taken care of. Was a commuter in Florida for most of those miles (80 mile commute).

Sounds like I should just keep it stock. Beyond bullshit exhaust/intake/tune boltons these cars are expensive to mod. Plus replacing bearings isn't fun or cheap. Its enjoyable to drive but could use a little more power. I was either gonna go """"Stage 2"""" or spend $7-10k on a AP1 S2000/350Z HR as a track car.

If you rock the car with the slap, the block will become ovaled out and be unusable.
Maybe even so out, you can't bore it back true.

6-10k will get you a solid rebuild/refresh

100,000 miles of engine breaking fun it about it, maximum yoir gonna get out of an ej.

If you refresh before it blows, you can do it for $1500 in parts. Just gotta make your wrench wu-dang style stronger. Maybe buy some tools.

350z is a great car.

The ap is slow unless your on road corse.

350z is a strong car.

But everything cost $

I think it's also worth mentioning that I have the FA20 motor wrx, they don't have big issues with gaskets as far as I know.

I'm looking to get around 280 to the wheels t.b.h. By the way, cheaper would be an AP, intake, and a downpipe, no?

>Can only go 180km/h
Kek

Fa20 is gay.

The exhaust note is that of hot explosive shit. You know, when the water hits your butt, and the whole bowl is blasted brown.

The new wrx is shit.

buy the stage 1 from maperformance its the best off the shelf tune, but get a downpipe and go protune for decent gains safely. I'm running their stage 1 on my car I wouldn't use map's stage 2 tho 2 of my friends have blown their turbos using it

all I have is map stage 1 and its 290/300 at the wheels

bruh shits prob making like 230 at the wheels dont kid yourself about that drivetrain loss