1987 RX7 FC repairs

I figured out that my mom's boyfriend (I know) has an old 1987 RX7 FC that he hasn't touched since 2005, and is willing to give it to me for free if I repair it. I was going to give a shot on seeing if it still runs or if I can get it running again. What should problems should I look for then just changing old fluids?

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this should help
youtube.com/watch?v=iPtmnHnbMMA

compression is probably bad which means it needs new seals. you have to pull the engine to change the seals but it isn't too hard if you're mechanically inclined

rubber seals are probably fucked

you're gonna get scammed into fixing this dudes car lol. get the title signed over and then fix it

Was it running when parked? at a minimum i would

>Drain fuel from tank and blow fuel out of lines w/ compressed air
>Remove spark plugs, pour some ATF down the inlet manifold and bar the engine over, listen for the 'suction' sounds to ensure the thing at least has SOME compression
>Change oil and plugs
>Try and start it

t. 12a RX2 owner

Provided you own it before putting work in, there is nothing you can't do OP.

Good luck bro.

Pls expound on the whole.mom boyfriend thing.... How long?
Does he live with you?
Have his own kids?

this

i would totally take up the challenge if it was free, then if you fail you an just LS swap it and you got a nice RWD hooner

It's been sitting in his garage under a cover for years on ends now, for the past five years I seen it just sitting there. He stopped using it once he started building his own house.

No I'm in college but he's been with my mom for around 6 years and has no kids. Just doesn't wanna get married because it's too much work for his age. Essentially he's just allowing me to see if it still works and take it because he just wants his garage back for engineering work.

Externally the car is perfectly fine when I looked over it yesterday+thanksgiving. I'm just worried about the engine over anything with it being a rotary.

>I'm just worried about the engine over anything with it being a rotary.

assume it needs a rebuild since thats likely the case

where are you op?
i'd seriously buy it off you for one grand cash

na 13b's are pretty fucking reliable actually, it isn't odd to see one still running upwards of 160k.

Rust and check the compression. As I understand it there's really nothing wrong with the fc chassis reliability wise outside of engine seals.

Was it smoking before parked? Figure out if it was coolant smoke. If it's a question, take the entire intake manifold off (I can do it in a fucking flash but that's only because I had to do the shit like 9 times so get ready for pain) and get one of those cheapie amazon micro USB endoscopes and shove it in there and check as much of the combustion chamber and each rotor face as you can for rust.

If you see rust, 2/3rds of the motor is no longer viable even as cores (more than likely).

If he really did just park it out of disuse I'd pull the top two fuel injectors and blast them clean (only ignoring the lower ones because they're annoying to get to), check your spark, and just crank it. Maybe a very light application of starting fluid but it's especially bad for rotaries so hold off.

Oh, and: just try the unflood procedure and see if it'll run that way. Rotaries won't evaporate fuel out if they flood. Pull the fuel injection fuses and crank for a little while.

>reliable
>160k

Is this sarcasm, or what rotards think?

The hard part is finding good guys who know how to work on rotaries.... Loved the old FC we had...it was a screamer...and yes, get title in hand before you do anything...Friends and family are the worst..

...

Run some Marvel Mystery oil through the spark plug holes and crank it over a few times, then check compression. Be sure the battery is fully charged or you have it on a strong charger while cranking; rotaries have no static compression. You want around 90-90-90 on bother rotors; more is better, a little less is...so-so. Obviously, if it's only hitting on one side you lost either an apex or corner seal; 2 bumps but not a third is probably a side seal.

Next, check to make sure it's getting fuel (working pump, 40 PSI fuel pressure, injectors aren't stuck shut...basic shit), then make sure you have spark and it should fire over (if it doesn't, first check the fuses)

If it has everything and a healthy battery, it should fire over. Also beware of fuel corrosion as it has a steel tank. You may want to drain the gasoline and put fresh 87 octane in there...non-ethanol preferably.

I have 35 year old 12A's with over 300K miles on them that still run fine.

This guy knows how to do it. You might get lucky on just the Marvel Mystery Oil trick, and then you have a running RX-7.

Other things that like to cause fixable issues on these cars:
-3800 RPM hesitation or bog -> Bad grounds or TPS sensor out of calibration
-High Idle, or stalling when cold -> Vac Leak (so many hoses) or the owner did some shitty "emissions delete"
-Sloppy shifter -> $15 bushings
-Flaky windshield wipers -> Relays in the physical switch - Repairable

I recommend 2-stroke premix in the gas for longevity.

If it is a stick car you can squirt some oil in the plug holes and drag it around in gear to get it started.