/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Honestly, it looks better. Not everyone likes the stock rims.

Better than some god awful blades or 20s

I like Dylan McCool

>it's perfectly fine to use RTV

Are you guys still butthurt because I (rightly) called that one guy a retard for gluing down his valve covers with RTV?

They look retarded, I had to talk my dad out of getting them for the 65 gto project because it hurts me inside to see those bling rims on a car.
Do yourself a favor and get some steelies they are cheap, nice looking, and get the job done.

I don't really consider anything after the mid to late '70s classic. I mean I drive an '87 Volvo and I wouldn't at all consider it a classic.

>bling wheels

Eat my ass, they're correct for the kind of era the cars were popular. You could call them kinda gauche because they came out of the 70s more or less and are a bit disco, but fuckin Grumpy Jenkins, Timoszyks and tons of drag racers ran 'em. They're correct for the car.

youtube.com/channel/UC3S-EVcnIxaitGIUyObU6Mg/videos

Dick Hamm, real down to earth dude. Shame he doesn't make vids anymore really. Sloppy Mechanics is another fun one

They are blingy trash regardless of era.
Stancing will still be retarded 50 years from now. Same logic applies here.

Sell the rims for 100$ off the retail price to some Boomer, get steelies and use the rest to keep the car running.

What makes them blingy- Because they're shiny? Or is the chrome finish your hangup? If it is the fact that they're chromed that's got you all tore up, classic cars aren't for you.

>nice new chrome correct rims
>buy steelies...
Hmmm

Mustie1, his most recent series where he fixes an old meter maid is pretty cool

Can't wait till I have some free time to start desmogging this big bitch. Any advice on where to start?

So an old guy i work with said he had a 63 starfire and his experience worries me.

Constant trans issues, rear end issues, and bearing sleeve would always go out. Said his mechanic said they were notorious for going out.

Now granted, could just be he got a lemon, but combine that with the fact that they arent popular or seen at all (this is the 1st one ive seen). Just food for thought.

On another note; whats easier? Fixing rust on a door or just getting a new door? (1st gen mustang)

On a related note, any advice for intro to rust repair? Tools, space needed, etc. I have some bubbling around my trunk lock that I live with but wanted to fix at some point, and I have the time to do it now. Also some bubbling behind rear tire

If youre lucky, its just surface rust behind the paint. If thats the case, wire wheel it, smooth it out with a thin layer of bondo, and paint. If its more than just the surface, you may have to cut it out.
You can properly fix it via replacement panel, or fabing something up.

Or you can bondo it, or from what ive seen which has been more successful and sometimes easier, fiber glassing it. My camaro was fiberglassed on all the fenders and they looked really good.

Measuring for new wheels/tires for the firebird. Trying to figure out if 245/40/17's will fit.

I must not be using the tool correctly. The wire on the end is supposed to simulate the tire but if I take a tape measure to it the wire is a couple inches further out than it should be for a 24.7" tall tire.

Working in the uninsulated garage, MN style.

My Lexus is now a "classic"

That's one guy's experience with a car he bought in an unknown condition; you get that with every car.

And, if you want muscle car wheels, get a set of Keystone Classics like pic related.

>My Lexus is still a shitbox
ftfy

After 4 days away I'm about to start wrestling with this thing to get it to start today.
The plan so for is
>remove distributor and number 1 plug
>insert long plastic straw into plug 1 hole
>turn engine by hand until plug it's TDC plug 1
>drop in distributor
>make it so rotor is pointed just before plug one
>tighten down until it can be spun with a little effort and start, set timing

Conversely I'm thinking of leaving the distributor In and just turning the engine to TDC then putting number 1 wire wherever the rotor is, making number 8 the next one etc etc etc.

Thoughts?

>Chrome
>Correct

Steelies with hubs are correct.
There is a chrome threshold and chrome rims surpass that.

At least I'm 100 percent smog compliant now

There's five foot wide hueg fuckoff chrome bumpers at both ends of the car, jackass. Classic cars are not for you.

There's no reason to remove the distributor. Get #1 on compression tdc put finger on sparkplug hole while you turn it over by hand you'll feel air push it. Then set to where the timing mark lines up. Then set up the wires so #1 is on the rotor. Make sure you know if your distributor spins clockwise or anti clockwise.

Ohhhhh I dunno Drac, those have chrome on them too, they're really toeing the chrome threshold!

I know it goes clockwise. I'm gonna do what u said

With your standards this is cool.
Did I break costie?

No, my standards are that wheels over 15" in diameter are ugly.

A better argument would be that Cragars themselves are overdone meme wheels and ruin an unusual car by giving it the most generic wheels out there.

That you are correct on
This would also be a decent argument

Also you roto fags cursed me

Okay so my pops in law covered the plug 1 hole with his finger while I turned the crank. We got compression, so I turned it until the timing mark is TDC. Popped the coil and cover off and the rotors pointed at nothing. It's just past the number one contact. I'm assuming I'm a tooth off? So just marked on my intake manifold where the rotor is pointed exactly and I spun the housing to where now the rotor is just before my number one plug. Is this okay?

Well his was new, so thats why it raised an eyebrow.

Yeah that sounds right. You'll move the distributor back and forth to fine tune it/time it. You'll need a timing light to do that after you get it fired up.

Those are god awful. 15" cragars arent.

I had an extension in there I didn't need. So it looks like a 245/75r17 should fit fine on an 8" wide wheel and 4" backspacing.

So talked to 1 of the mustang owners, and everything seems about right except for 1 thing.

>brakes need to be redone because theyre hard.

What causes this? Ive dealt with soft and no brakes, but never hardened ones.

245/40*

The guy likes the Cragars, they're already on the car, they're new so likely not fucked up, they're correct for the era the car is from- Cragars might be generic, but Cuntlass was advocating the single thing probably more generic; plain steelies.

>Update
Maybe the rotors are hardens and glazed from heat.

>Those are god awful; worse than cragars.

Is this what you meant to say?

Damn it, man, that literally means that the brake booster is failing.

That's not ur rx 7 is it cutlass-kun? :)

I got a timing light. It cranked and started sounding like popcorn coming out the carb. Does this mean I'm 180 degrees out of time

Coastie; listen to me. Buy the Oldsmobile. It's so much better to have a car with a big V8 rhat everyone else doesn't have. Its main issues are cosmetic and it should run like a champ for years to come. It'll outperform the Mustang, you'll have all the fun of talking to people who enjoy the car and are actually interested. The advantages of owning a slightly obscure car are immeasurable.

Christmas is over and I can finally send my engine to the machine shop.

I got it running now I need it to stay on long enough to hit temp so I can zap it with my timing light. Thank guys

It's sounds mean as fuck right now straight piped supercharged 355 mild cam Torquer heads and shorty headers

How much did this cost you? I love the Elite.

All drums
20s are nig tier?

Ah, thats something ive never experienced. But that should make it an easy fix? Or are there other issues that can cause it?

Im thinking this may be the best option.. its just that mustangs are so pretty and something ive always wanted.

Sadly now, other bills are getting in the way, so i may have to wait.

>1k cause pupper has heartworms
>400 cause apartment complex has pet policy
>thoughts that maybe i shouldnt get that loan.

I can afford everything, just dont want to hit my account that hard so quickly. And this is all based on the guy getting my impala tomorrow.

Anything over 16" is nigger-tier.

And, a brake booster isn't an overly difficult job; watch a video on YouTube to get the idea.

If you want a Musang, get one; but, prepare toget less for your money.

Also, just get rid of the dog. $1,400 for it is a waste.

5.0 roller block with 289 hipo heads, fully ported with 2.02/1.60 valves and guide plates/studs. Found a limited slip 3.55 center section for the 8". Drove back from a car show and the radiator puked right when I got to my exit. Radiator and a new transmission are next projects

Engine masters and roadkill (garage $5/mo you cheap shit)

Well fuck me in the ass my alternator air pump main crank belt was too small my alternator blades were seized on the brackets I shot a belt already

Agreed on rims

I believe you on the mustang

No. Dog stays.

>wasting money on a nigger dog
wew lad. Have you ever made a good choice?

Steelies are god tier
Nah my brother bought it for 900$, the ugly Miata next to it is mine though.

Put my water pump, vally pan, and intake manifold on my 400 today. My valve covers are buried in a pile of of junk somewhere.

What would ccg value this at?
mobile.craigslist.org/cto/d/1976-camaro/6413338057.html

Apart from the paint and passenger door panel, looks solid.

1400$ on a dog!?!
My cats I got when a stray gave birth in a project car and they feed and take care of themselves. I can't imagine spending money on animals.

5500 isn't unreasonable if the engine and transmission are 100% smooth and solid. I think he would part with it 5000 cash

3500$ engine sketches me out, rims are garbage, paint is gone, body is banged up , interior is trashed, and it's an auto.

I would never let my cat outside. You're a monster

Why does the engine sketch you out?

Figured out i may not be able to drive the starfire.

>single digit mpg + 10:1 compression.
Highest gas around here is 93, and even that may need an additive every tank so it doesnt knock.

93 is fine, my GTO is tickling 12:1 compression and gets along with 93 and no knocking.

You can run it fine on regular pump gas; modern gas is a lot better than what they were running when the car was new.

kitty

Just don’t buy the Starfire if you don’t want. You don’t have to justify it to us

Your brother has good taste

Looks like my babies:

Cute!

What do you run in all your cars?

It goes as follows:
1966 Imperial & 1968 Cadillac - regular with lead additive.
1976 Rolls & 1981 DeLorean - Nonreformulated premium (because it almost NEVER gets driven; regular on long trips.)
1979 Lincoln, 1984 Fiero, & 1986 Corvette - regular

Newbie here, whats the year cut off for lead additive?

I live in the middle of nowhere, so my cats roam the forests and fields in the day and come back by night. I would rather let them be free then in a cramped house all day.
All those aftermarket "performance" parts are normally a red flag.
He chose that over a 70 GTO, at least it was cheap.

1974

Those "performance parts" are a dual plane intake and generic carburetor and valve covers

I don't think I would've passed up the 1970 gto. That's my favorite year of that car

He said he "built" the engine, has an msd and efi. Also there are a bunch of random hoses that are not stock. As well as the things you mentioned.
This guy put some money into this motor.

I've gotten screwed by motors that look just like this one.

*Hei

And, even if it IS alright, it will still get worse mileage than the Starfire.

Talked to the guy, said he dropped 5k in the engine and trans. Only thing original on the engine is the block.

Can confirm. Built 350 got 6mpg

I never ran lead additives, mostly just 87 gas. Am i fucking it up or just hindering performance?
67 283
53 flathead
66 I6
66 /6
74 350

It can cause more wear on the valve seats, but it's not of paramount importance.

I got the 79 camaro idling and set it 10 degrees before too dead center but it was idling fast as fuck. Come to find out I have a visible leak at the front seal of the intake manifold. Son of a bitch. Gonna have to redo all this work to correct this.

What do u guys do for end and front seals on small block intake manifolds? Red RTV? black? Cork and rubber end seals? I don't wanna do this a 3rd time

If I didnt fall for the mullet meme I probably would have taken it.
I think my dad has come to the sad realization that he has too many projects.

I used black RTV for a timing chain cover/oil pan gasket. If that held, i dont think it would fail on anything. Stupid question, but did you check your idle speed on the carb? I know i had that issue with my camaro and spent hours messing with timing before realizing it was just a stupid thing on the carb

I pulled the intake manifold and there was coolant in my oil on the distributor

What the fuck?

Should I be worried?

Why is it so hard to find?

Yep.

Dang

Should I pull the heads u think?