QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

Is tuner/car modification culture dead?

Yes, no one is interested in going fast as possible around corners anymore.

Fewer cheap fun cars to get people interested in it.

>most modern cars
It's a 95. I'm pretty sure all it does is retard the timing when it hears knocks
>shortened exhaust
It only has extractors on at the moment as everything was rusted from there back. Currently not popping and crackling as much as shotgun fire. I think it's just running rich and shitting out fuel as the o2 sensor is showing like 850 millivolts
No. Maybe join an actual drag racing/road rally/offroad club.

it's at 310k miles and it leaks oil. i've only been interested in auto mechanics in the last few months so i had no idea there was such a thing as an ABS tone ring.

at first i'd assumed it was something broken in the suspension on one of the front wheels but i didn't see anything apparent. i'll have to take a more in-depth look some time to make sure there's not bad corrosion making the wheel structrually unsound, but the abs ring could certainly be the case.

there is sometimes a small clunking sound coming from the driver side wheel i've noticed before that i'd assumed may be from the transmission, but upon taking this into realization it seems like it could be part of the same issue

Why does a car need a transmission? Why all that extra weight when you could have just one switch to go front or back and just hand brake to halt?

How much of a gay cunt would I be if I put an Evo 8 wing on my 2004 lancer es

A huge gay cunt.

collosal gay cunt
however since you drive a lancer your already at rock bottom so go for it

Post 2010 Infiniti or BMW?

Happy new year, Veeky Forums qdot. Subaru baja 68k miles, 7800. Yay or nay? Is it a hard jewing?

If you daily a Miata, please share how your experience has been and which model you own (NA, NB, NC etc).

Kek t'was a great thread

why are injector dynamic's injectors so fucking expensive?

If no rust you might have a good deal on your hands. You'd want to factor in all the things that go bad with time like belts and anything else made of rubber, do fluid changes, etc.

IIRC Bajas were being made during those few years where the NA EJ25 became a meme for head gasket issues. That's not actually a big deal. What you do is keep an eye on the temperature gauge and keep up with basic maintenance and if it shows the signs of a busted head gasket then you swap the old ones out for the updated gaskets and then never worry about it again.

Only tangentially related, but how do you guys deal with assholes who act like elitists because you're wrenching on a lower budget?

Been dealing with one dude who's a bit older and part of my immediate family, and he's got a lot of money to spare. To him, wrenching or modifying a car is buying some expensive, brand new part, and replacing his working part because "it's falling apart user!" the second it shows the slightest bit of wear. Anything even slightly more complex or requiring actually getting dirty is done by a mechanic. The guy hasn't changed his own oil in fucking years. This wouldn't be a problem, except he's thumbing his nose at me a shitload because my idea of wrenching is buying a cheap car I could afford and working on it to repair all it's fucked up bits, and slowly customizing it to what I want it to be.

I guess I'm looking for general advice on how to deal with these guys. I'm meeting more and more of them, and sadly the field I'm going into is absolutely riddled with them. I've developed a pretty thick skin, but dealing with this day in day out is slowly grinding me down. I need some sort of strategy for this or I'll go insane.

Can somebody talk to me about adding a second battery to a car? Any personal experiences?

I'm hoping to go on a long road trip, and being able to run shit from a second battery, and have the first solely for starting the car would be a massively helpful setup for me. I'm intending to buy one of the kits from my local auto parts store, but wanted some advice on what I'm getting myself into.

Also, is there anything to stop me from using a battery taken from the wreckers as the secondary? I'm thinking I might go through a fairly large wreckers near me, find the newest battery, and charge it myself from my car battery charger. Since it'll primarily be running shit when the car is not running to preserve the main battery, does it actually matter if it's not in the best nick?

I don't know what kind of kit you're looking at, but if you don't keep the secondary battery topped up similarly to how the car's electrical system keeps the primary topped up then you're going to run it down and reduce its life. If I were you I'd think about keeping a secondary (or a jump box) strictly as a way to jump-start should you manage to run the primary down.

As for scooping one from a wreck yard, that's a gamble. Probably it's been sitting there self-discharging for a long time even if it was in good condition to start with. Running a lead-acid battery down too far is about the best way to kill its charged capacity. So you're not going to know how good it is until you charge it back up at least once (preferably e.g. three times, once every other day), and then go to use it and watch how fast it runs down.

Stop sharing this particular hobby with them, if you have to convince someone your hobby has a purpose, then it's just annoying for both parts.

They don't think wrenching is necessary or enjoyable and they have the money to let someone else do the job for them, big fucking deal, it's obviously not a concern for them so I don't see why you have to convince them otherwise.

Find something else to talk about and never bring up their service history or your recent mods/service to the table again, it's not that difficult

Other than this begin bait: You do understand most engines don't have enough torque to overcome the weight of the vehicle they're in without gearing? You do also understand you need a discconnect like a torque converter or clutch becuase you can't simply start an engine and take off.

Depends on the car, but coming from a BMW owner, Lexus.

>As for scooping one from a wreck yard, that's a gamble. Probably it's been sitting there self-discharging for a long time even if it was in good condition to start with

While I agree his second battery idea is stupid, generally auto salvage places pull the batteries out of the car before they go onto their lots and store them in a certain spot.

The local LKQ here has them stacked right at the entrance as you come in and I believe a have a return policy if they are duds.

Help br/o/s. Not sure exactly what this boot is covering but it looks fucked and looks expensive. 2005 Silverado 1500. What am I looking at here? Been making noise turning right and heared screeching so looked in here and saw this. Thanks guys

Silverados have half shafts these days?

I don't know what that is but you might as well get it fixed sooner than later. Big tuff trucks can make a lot of noise before they wear out, but it's always less expensive and less work to fix a small problem before it wears into a big one.

Also NOICE ice/sludge/dirt/oil/grime caking. It warms the heart to see a vehicle roaming free and proud in its natural element.

Yea I use it for work.

recently found out that my car at some point in its life had its original engine replaced with a smaller one from the same model, are there any possible advantages ? the difference isnt that big, 1.4L to 1.1L

1.4L is almost 30% bigger than 1.1L. Any time you add 30% effective displacement to an engine the difference is "big."

Okay, so a basic inspection on lines and seals while checking it out, and if I go for it keep an eye on the temp gauge. The listing makes specifically a new head gasket, timing belt, and brake rotors.

>makes specific mention of having done
Too many cocks I can't into English today

New rotors are pretty standard, easy and cheap. Good excuse to bleed the brake fluid while your at it and have a look at the CV boots, the outer tie rod boots, check if the ABS tone rings are rusting to shit or not etc.

If you're doing the timing belt anyway, that would be a good time to pull the heads and swap the gaskets. Also do water pump, accessory belts, oil pump, and timing belt tensioner while you're at it. You'll have to take off the radiator to get in there (easy as heck) so that's an obvious opportunity to change the coolant. Have a look at the front crank and cam seals in case they might be starting to weep oil - you don't need that on your timing belt. And run it first to listen for squeaks from the front of the engine - there might be an idler pulley or something that's starting to go bad, but you won't be able tell which one until you get the timing belt off and spin them by hand.

You mistake me, the listing states those have been replaced already with newer parts. Fluids too. Of course, trust but verify.

I plan to check it out within the next two days. Today maybe, if my flight gets in soon enough.

Yah mistook your typo. But there's a list of things to inquire about when you go to chat. If the owner is a car guy he'll be happy to chat about all the this and that about the car.

Is the wind noise in a new MX-5 that loud compared to the RF version?

Babummp

Okay, yeah. Ill check it out and report back. Thank you kindly, helpful cardude.
>t. Greatful fa/tg/uy

AT tires or winters for smooth dirt/gravel roads. Amon street legal tires ofc.

If summer AT for sure, the winter tire would melt like butter on gravel.

G37/Q50/Q60 vs F30 335i/435i
I know Lexus beats them both on certain fields but I just can't stand how they look.

Looking at a 2002 Saab 9-3. I was looking at a 9-5 2.3t, but the sludgemonster steered me away. Is there anything I should know before getting it?

Just turn the whole thing on them
>user, you change your own oil? You must be a chump to get dirty like that!
Respond with
>lol you dont change your own oil? Niether does my mother, but she's a woman so I guess its expected
>lol only real men know their cars inside and out
You need to make him feel emasculated for not doing a man's work. I bet this faggot doesnt even grill, or like guns or outdoors and stuff. A real fag's man.

I used to have 2 batteries in my car when I had a very thirsty sound system in it. I had the second battery wired straight to the primary battery with a switch in the line so it was only on when I was running the subs for competition. You could do the same thing but have the second battery disabled until you need it then just flip the switch and get the backup power, and flip the switch on when you need to charge the battery with the alternator

Been trying to do this, so I guess I'll double down and play it to the hilt. Hopefully it'll stop more of these guys from appearing. Sadly, the main one sees my car around the side almost every day, and I interact with him regularly. Might take a few weeks of rapid conversation changes to phase him out.

He's one of those dudes who has totally done everything outdoorsey, but better, and 20 years ago before it all got super easy, so don't you know user? HE'S the real man here!

But srrs, good advice. I'm going to try what the other user suggested, but if that fails I'll move onto this. I actually am into outdoors stuff (original reason I got into Veeky Forums was to get transport for /out/ and Veeky Forums activities) so I might be able to play this one pretty hard. A while ago he was making comments about how he used to lift heaps at the gym, and I shut him down pretty hard when I asked if he'd like to come to my gym for a sesion, since I could get him a few free passes. Worked a treat. Might work with this too.

So my shitbox has slowly plummeted to be barely driveable. I don't really remember when it starts but basically the clutch kept getting shitty and shittier but it still felt okay. Now it is at a point where the clutch is pretty much non-existent, i don't feel anything from the pedal anymore it just works and the bite point is pretty much at the top of the pedal. But the real thing is that the cars performance is so fucking shite, pretty much undrivable. Always feels like i am one gear too high even getting going in 1st, the other gears always feel like shit and like they want to lug the engine sometimes when before they never did. I mean, one would say it is the clutch but it has been like this for quite sometime and it has yet to start slipping. If it really was just the clutch on the way out, then would the performance not be fairly similar and would just start slipping once you tried to do anything instead of being absolutely anemic.

Shifting can feel shitty, especially 1st and 2nd. But now that it is around -10 to -15 shifting into everything but 1st is a lot better for whatever reason. Change of oil weight idk. The only thing i remember doing to this car before this all happened is changing the oil, i put in what the engine requires but did not think about all the residual oil that stays so it was like a bit above the full mark on the dipstick. I didn't really think anything of that. It was fine after the change and for quite sometime after.

General thoughts on the Kia optima?

should I go with ITBs or turbo?

Cool blog post, 10/10 would laugh at you again.

ITB's will get you what? 5 more hp and a fucking migrane trying to sync them?

You didn't ask any questions. So that's prolly why that other poster said your post was bloggy. And you were quite reticent on the description of how overly high it is on the dipstick.

Now, did you really say that you added the full amount of oil to the existing amount of oil in the car? That means, you read in your owner manual that the car uses 5 quarts of oil, so you added 5 more quarts to what was already in the engine?

And when you make a mistake, you should correct it ASAP instead of just driving it around. At this point, it is unknown how worn out your clutch is. But you should at least have added oil a bit at a time and waited 30 seconds or so to recheck the dipstick to see the oil level. Adding too much oil can cause foaming or a variation of hydrolock in the engine where parts like the bottom of pistons slap into the oil when they should not.

What's the official name of the OZ wheels from the Lancer OZ Rally?

looking at these and want more info
madison.craigslist.org/wto/d/factory-lancer-oz-racing-rims/6432994507.html

What car is this?

How much shitty is too shitty when it comes to cold cars? When it's below 10 f my car feels like a boat. The clutch becomes like kicking a brick wall and the shifter barely moves. Also i created my own personal smoke screen when I got on the highway on ramp.

I'm looking into supercharging my AW11 with a twin scroll but I have no idea how to mount it. Seems like I have to make brackets to go on the crankcase and move a few things around. Other problem I got is that all the superchargers I've seen have been mounted ontop of the engine so I don't know what happens on the outlet; whether it goes straight into the throttle body or is it piped.

Sentra Coupe

Sure, but think of all that throttle response and induction noise. I own a motorcycle carb sync tool anyway.

looks like it's being stolen

I was trying to take the caliper off my car and I stripped one of the bolts that is keeping it on. What should I do?

Know you guys will hate me on my decisions or choices on vehicles, but which one?
Lexus LC500 brand new with options ($110k)
or
MB S63 Coupe Used (Clean, 15k, $120k)

From my POV on which one over which:
Lexus
+Reliability (LC is a new vehicle, but the Lexus brand is well known for reliability)
+Actually comfy grand tourer
+Love the styling (ext and int)
+Brand spanking new
MB
+That engine
+That amazing ext and int
+Screams premium
+It is roughly 100 grand cheaper than brand new S63 Coupe

Lexus obviously.
The s63 should only ever be leased, and with the MB seems like you should have a chauffer or people will just think you're a drug dealer or a pimp.

So the caliper mounting bolt? You can replace the bolt. If you stripped where it screws in to... I guess you could tap new threads for a bigger bolt, and you would have to drill out the hole in the caliper a little. Or maybe that whole bracket is replaceable, depending on the car.

If you're not sure, post pictures.

Might want to put a thinner/ better/ different oil in the transmission.
Why was it smoking so much? Was it just water vapor, or is it burning coolant or oil?

The bolt is still stuck in the caliper? First figure out what you can grip it with, maybe the next size down socket hammered on to it or maybe vice grips is the best you can do.

Get a torch (Ideally OA but MAP gas should work as well) and get the bolt hot enough to glow. Get your wrench or whatever on it. Knock said wrench with the head of sledge hammer or whatever is handy and ideally it should pop loose.

Otherwise you might be stuck drilling it out or just saying fuck it and getting a whole new caliper if you'd rather throw money at it than booze and swearing.

I had good results in the winter just swapping the factory sludge for a synthetic of the same weight. I ponied up for redline shockproof superlight since gear oil isn't something you usually change more than about once or possibly twice in the life of a normal roadgoing car. Made my worn synchros more grippy, too, which was nice.

Oh sorry I didn't understand. You stripped the head off the bolt, I was thinking you stripped the threads (crossthreaded it).

I'm planning on changing all the fluids at 200k. I'm hoping it was just water vapor, last thing I need right now is to have to buy another car

Was the smoke colored? Does it do that all the time or just when cold? Only the first time you accelerate hard after it's been sitting? It could be relatively innocuous except possibly for passing an emissions check.

If you can get under the car, you can drain and fill the trans yourself. It's as easy as an oil change. Even really good oil will only be around $40-$50.

As far as I could tell it was just white smoke, I just noticed I literally couldn't see out my back window when I was getting on the highway. I've never seen so much until these past few days where it's been in the single digits. I'll make sure to check my coolant and oil to check if my head gasket has decided to commit suicide.

I know, I prefer to do most of my own wrenching. I just can't do anything right now because I don't have a garage and it's also really fucking cold.

Hey dudes, I'm currently working on my first shitbox and one of the issues it's facing is that it's battery is basically screwed. I've used a car battery charger and it gets maybe 2 starts before it dies. Multiple years old too. This car takes a 57mah battery.

My family car has a slightly newer, but still old battery. Was having a few issues with not starting or starting after a few clicks after multiple short drives. Charging helped but not immensely. Had it tested, and since it was only charging to around half, I had it replaced, since the family car needs to be reliable. My shitbox doesn't.

Anyway, I now have a semi reliable but still working battery and a car that needs another battery. However the semi reliable battery is a 67mah battery.

So what does that actually mean? Can I use the 67 in my car despite being 10mah different? Physically it would fit.

Also, I'm the retard talking about putting two batteries in a car, so one can power accessories during long trips and the other can be used as a battery should be; only for starting the car. If I can't use the 67mah as a primary battery, could I use it as a secondary for powering shit when the car isn't running?

Mostly curious about how power systems in cars work.

I've got a project car that has liability insurance from when I had to daily drive it, but I don't drive it much anymore because I don't have time. What are the chances I can get the insurance temporarily canceled until I can get around to fixing the car? It would certainly help to not hemorrhage money every month.

Ring up your insurance company and ask. In the US at least it's not unusual to drop or at least dial down the insurance on a car you only use part of the year. Some people go all the way to take it off the road entirely but that's more of a hassle and you might wind up paying more in fees if it's not off the road for a long time.

Yeah you can drop a higher capacity battery in. Nothing to worry about there.

If you're having problems keeping the battery topped up you might want to swing by an Autozone or a Pep Boys or something like that where they will test your charging system for free. You might for instance have blown one of the rectifier diodes in your alternator, which would allow the car to continue running mostly normally but fail to be able to keep the batter charged up over the long run.

If you run a secondary battery, what you want to do is use jumper cables or something to hook it up in parallel to the primary battery while driving around to keep it charged up. Or keep swapping the two batteries e.g. every day or two depending on much you're running down the secondary battery.

Any of you losers use a craigslist mobile mechanic, guy is supposedly ASE certified and my car's spark plugs are a nightmare to do so I was thinking of paying the $30 to have this guy do it instead.

You have about a 70% chance of regretting it I would say.

How do I deal with knowing all the car parts I ordered are sitting waiting for me while I'm at work?

Stop supporting eBay prices for old car parts, fucking scalpers charging 100x what they paid at the junkyard.

Almost all of those are new parts from zstore. Good luck finding the incredibly rare parts I was buying at a junkyard anyway

Because dumbfucks like you and ebay sellers buy up everything for pennies and try to flip it for hundreds online, it's okay let your shit sit there until some boyracer fresh from youtube wants to buy you stinky old dusty bullshit to soup up his driftmissle instead of someone trying to restore a classic with stock parts. Get out of here

Fuck off you cock sucker. I'm buying new parts made by zstore and skillard that you can't find in good working shape anymore. Keep bitching, you poor fucking faggot. Quit blaming me for your problems

I'm trying to replace my fuel pump and the one I got offline has a different connector and I'm not sure how to go about doing this. Sending it back isn't an option because I need to fix it today.

Pic is old connector and I'll post the new one in a minute

>but I don't drive it much anymore because I don't have time.
My neighbor has a Corvette that he doesn't drive during the winter months due to snow and ice. He turns off the insurance for it during those non-driving months.

A different approach that preserves the ability to drive it anytime for an urgent errand is to contact the insurance company for reduced mileage discount. That's under the assumption that your non-driving months will reduce the annual average miles to whatever mileage number the insurance company thinks is low mileage. One of my cars is like that as I don't drive it that much, but I want full annual coverage on it at all times. So I applied for low mileage and the rate dropped a small amount each month. Possibly not worth doing it that way as compared to turning off the insurance.

Online*

I just thought I'd ask. My mom said it might be illegal but after some of the other stuff she's tried to tell me, I should stop listening when she mentions anything related to cars

Ignore this I'm simply retarded. I didn't notice that the other connector was the one I needed to splice with the new connector

Insurance companies are hives of lawyer types. They won't let you do anything outright illegal because they need to cover their asses. But they will try to accommodate you because they want your continued business and your shekels.

If you encounter this problem in the future, take the connector in to a parts store and they will likely find a connector for it that you can use. I did this with after market injectors one time and it worked out well.

Lexus it is.

1990 300zx z32 N/A
If that doesnt scare you away from my question

I bought a cheap drift car to get around before the new season
The problem im having with it
Engine cold revs to 7k and redlines as it should in nuetral (not in gear)
It seams like as its warming up it will slowly decend down the rpm gauge and bog at various points i.e. 6k 5k 3k so on
Its not redlining it like hits the point and cuts power to itself sometimes it plays and bogs and backfires abit at the cut off point
Sometimes it cuts drops to like 2 or 3k and bogs there
It stays persistent after warming up and will sometimes do it out of gear

List of things ive replaced
>fuel pump relat
>spark plugs
>air filters
>coil packs boots
>cas sensor
>recently replaced cat plug/pigtail but havent seen if this has allieviated said problem

Things supposedly replaced
>fuel filter 99% sure of this
>2 injectors (not sure why just two 85% sure)
>fuel pump (50% sure it does sound like its running)

Im sure the maf is working slightly because if you take it off it runs awful
Idle air control valve didnt seam to be clogged
And its not hesitating like google likes to point me twoards i cant find anyone with the same problems online
Not loosing coolant or oil and not throwing any codes in the dash

Ideas?

Coil packs and boots** CAS pigtail** forgot to proof read my phone post =/

To add local performance college kids had there hands in it for certain (sticker in the windsheild when i bought it)

I dont know if it matters or not but they rigged up two unequal length tractor exausts and i believe they took the catalytic converters out of the equation at the same time being a 1990 i dont belive it has exhaust o2 sensors but i could be wrong

Sounds like bad A/F management. Possibly made worse by trying to shift across shifty fuel/timing maps. It might be the air sensor after all.