/CCG/ -Proper Gasser Edition

This weekend gonna replace my power steering gear box, might get groggy and just replace the pump and lines too while I'm in there. The parts are cheap as fuck and I have a horrible leak like empties out in one day of driving, plus squealing when turning the wheels.

Almost done with project guys just gotta do the rear end re-gear and posi and then finish tuning my distributor and carburetor, then fit a hood and send her off for paint!

Or should I keep it ratty? It's a Frankenstein abomination made from body panels off different year and trim level camaros anyways so it'll never be worth anything. I do like high gloss black though

Probably dumb question, but how can i tell about the ignition? It mightve been done over the last 40+ years, but the generator instead of an alternator makes me think otherwise.

One of my projects. 1955 f250, dropped and working on installing twin I-beam suspension in place of the old straight axle with leaf springs and drum brakes

So whats leaking?
>its a land rover
Sorry, what isnt leaking?

Everything pulled and I brand ready for mock up. Also installed Dana 44 (kek) rear end out of a light duty f100, removed a few springs from the leaf pack too

Paint it. You can put 100k into the drive train and make it a god machine, and people will only offer you 2k cause it looks ratty.

I know its not about resell value or anything, but might as well have a good looking car you put so much work into.

I meant that as in fix the leaks that the rain is coming in. Just a little rubber around the rear windows now. It leaks oil but otherwise it’s fine.

If anything, she’s just trying to make sure that I never go thirsty

Get a proper paint job and the 5 spokes and that thing would be perfect.

the body on that thing looks like it's in great shape

I'm not planning on ever selling it and like the sleeper idea, but with a blower whining and cam rumble plus air cleaner through the hood i guess we're way past sleeper huh? Fuck it I'll save up for the paint

What's wrong with the turbines?

Bump

Recently got this for christmas, rust free cab, frame and front clip, truck was out of Texas. Going to use it to replace the fairly crusty cab on my 81.

>need to sell the new bed
>also has a 12 bolt with unknown gears

Pretty stoked, got it for one hell of a price too.

Body is 99% rust free. Has never been touched. Door bottoms were rusted out, found a set of rust free doors in a friend's barn we were tearing down

Daytona/Superbird

How much does it typically cost to get a pair of heads milled to increase compression? I want to do a bit to my crappy smog heads for performance but eventually I plan on getting better ones. Is milling heads something I could do myself? They're Pontiac 4x-7h heads

Honestly bro your better off just getting the new heads right now man even if they're just like cheapy S/R Torquer heads or camel humps. Why spend money on something that will never be good and your gonna replace anyways

right now i'm just trying to get this motor back together and in my car. my plan is to go all out with a super good pair of heads down the road but that'd cost me a couple grand. i figure throw these heads on for now so i can get to work swapping this in my car and ironing out the kinks

Pulled the Packard starter and awaiting its rebuild. It was still engaged; thus explaining the direct ground issue that kept it from starting. Points arrived, so I'll be buttoning her up and starting on the body in a week or two.

Seriously; I LOVE the starter placement on this car. You pull it from the engine bay. Two bolts, no shims, and an independent solenoid that sits atop it.

I foresee this car becoming my daily driver in a year.

Pic of starter in car:

Hemi cuda obviously.
Why are any of the others even being considered? E body Barracudas with a Hemi are in the 7 digits.
hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2016/09/01/hemi-cuda

Pulled starter; surprisingly light for turning a 327cu.in. I8.

It's low compression innit?

>surprisingly light
Well it's not like there's much compression to work against lol

There are some factory 1972 440 six pack mopars that only had a couple days of production before the 440 six pack option vanished

It's a 7:1 compression ratio; not terrible, really.

4x-7h heads are fine.
HR has a good article on them hotrod.com/articles/0312pon-4x-6x-racing-heads/

I wouldn't try and port or mill them yourself, you can fuck up a good pair of heads like that.

That's pretty good. That's like the upper ceiling for a flathead.

i figured it'd be dumb to do it myself. you know how much a shop would charge for that kind of work?

Sounds like it's begging for 35lbs of boost

...

Nobody bought it?
Strange

Before you do anything, you need to write out your entire build and do the math.
Cost varies from shop to shop

Yeah. Honestly, the Packard I8 is one of my favorite flatheads ever made. They produce decent power, have a great sound, and are very reliable. The best is the 356 with 9 bearings, 165 HP 282 lb-ft of torque; while my 327 has 7 bearings, 150 HP and 270 lb-ft of torque.

The difference is so minimal that I don't mind the smaller motor; the 9 bearing is a little smoother, but it's not readily apparent. I've been in cars with both motors and couldn't tell the difference.

>150 HP and 270 lb-ft of torque.
Damn bro you got yourself a hotrod.
I hope it doesn't rust out on you.
A little jelly desu

I'm not 100% sure If you're sarcastic, but I don't think so. In any case, if it's too rusty, I'll build my own body for it; I've got a spare Rolls Royce grille, hood, and pair of front doors. I'd make something like pic related, but with the engine visible.

I was being sarcastic but that's still pretty good numbers and i'm still a bit jelly.

Well, for it's time, those were great numbers. Ford's flathead V8 made 95 HP and 180 lb-ft of torque.

Granted, the motor weighs roughly 745 lbs., so it will never be a light or fast car.

How fucked am i with this? Its really the only spot that isnt surface rust. I drowned it with rust killer, and then primed over it, and tried to seal the hole with that rubber spray.

Gonna take it to a shop to see how much they would charge to fix it.

Fuck, forgot pic.

Rust around windshields are a bitch,

Its on the rear pillar under the rain rail. I was considering pouring a gallon of rust killer on it, and just fill it with bondo for worst case scenario.

I know what i got

Roastie idk if you saw my replies so I'm just gonna repost

I'm only getting into this because my truck is a slant and I have basically been reading about them every day for months I have never done an engine swap, and the truck is super original, so I don't really want to alter the drivetrain too much. It's also a great simple motor for a 2wd truck and gets good mileage, relatively speaking (double digits). Are you actually gonna hold onto this car? That dart is my favorite car of what you've had do far. Very nice color. I understand looking for the right match, but it would be pointless for me to go on about it if you're not going to keep it.

Basically the other guys are right, turbo is the way to make power. If you do cam, headers/dutras, hipo manifold and 4 barrel, plus some headwork, you can make an honest 50% gain in power, but you're not starting with much to begin with. There is a lot of info on slantsix.org but the turbo builds are all scattered and the "comprehensive" article is like 20 years old. I recommend joining the site of you're going to keep the car, but don't be surprised if SlantSixDan and maybe a couple others treat you like a moron if you ask moron questions (difference between stupid question and moron question is you already know the answer to the latter)

Also re: electronic ignition just open your distributor and use your eyes mang. Use google. Pic related

Upload a video of turning over. Love series landies

Is it a long bed? A pre-'57 long bed F250 is like my dream truck. 50s bubble styling with a bed you can actually use.

I honestly was planning on keeping it, but when i took it to a body shop, the lady acted like the car was on its death bed due to the bondo in the fender (stopping them from pulling the dent), and the rust hole. Honestly makes me kinda scared lol.

How extensive is adding a turbo? Like its just a bolt on, or am i redoing a lot? And wouldnt i have to beef up the trans and rear end to handle it?

It really is one of my favorite cars, just need to get rid of the pesky 3 on the tree.

youtu.be/iJUjMmpDfZI

Just a quickie. Old video I did for a friend when I bought it. I’ll do some proper micing up of it soon. It’s sounds have been used in an indie movie. Joys of being assistant foley

That's the telltale signs of a poor quality repair for a bashed-in fender; the sheet metal beneath is probably wavy. What's it look like from in the trunk?

Another easy way to tell: pic related on the firewall on the drivers' side (IIRC)

actually disregard that. A '72 slant six wouldn't have breakerless. It's a year too old.
But that doesn't discount an aftermarket system, or someone putting stuff from a later car in.

>How extensive is adding a turbo? Like its just a bolt on, or am i redoing a lot?
There's not a huge amount of part involved but you have to do a lot of planning and thinking. I'm at that stage myself although I haven't thought about it seriously yet. Look up the basics of turbocharging and then narrow it down. Fortunately for slants the compression is so low from the factory and the casting is so strong that you don't have to change anything internal if you don't want to

>wouldnt i have to beef up the trans and rear end to handle it?
Slants are weak as fuck, 100 horses from the factory. Turbo is night and day but the performance will still be the same or less than a 318, so not something the dart isn't equipped to handle. Pic related is mopar rear ends if you want to figure out the strength anyway

Tree fell on it, trunk looks great on the inside.

Love the flat dash. I would go for a landy but jeeps are so much more affordable. And Indy movies give me escapist feels. As if I wouldn't absolutely hate being in a jungle, but still.

I think some of the waves youre seeing are just the reflections of another car and the sun setting. Apart from that dent and the bubbling, everything else is smooth as glass (apart from the occasional ding). When i was under the car, i was amazed at how straight and clean everything was. Shit almost looks new.

Thanks, there’s a few switches that seemingly have no purpose but I’ll figure out what they are eventually.

I assume you’re in the USA? I imagine the situation is reversed. If you wants a JEEP in the U.K. it will be more expensive. Out of interest how much would a series 2a be where you are?

its cold af

how is everyone doing

dont mind these front wheels tho, im trying to find some correct sunnies to slap back on.
these 14s are k i l l i n g me

I thought u were trying to sell that like 8 threads ago

Yes it's a long bed. I actually took 4 inches from the rear of the bed about 7 or 8 years ago because it was so smashed in, I was told it was a forestry service truck all its life

nahhh not exactly. i was trying 2 find parts for it. i mentioned selling it to making moving easier. dont rly want to let it go. dont rly plan on it.

>9-1/4"
>Used in 3/4-tons
>Dana 60
>used in 1-tons

Dammit, Chrysler could you get any cheaper?

Hell yea man it's a sweet ride keep that shit

Just watched a show called speed is the new black at my grandparents.
They took a completely stock 62 Corvette and ruined it.
The kkk were lynching the wrong people.

Been thinking on making a gasser myself.

Yeah I've seen that episode. Complete cancer of a show

If you do decide to sell it, I want it

Yeah. I can get a decent CJ5 with a motor that turns over for 1500, a decent flat fender jeep for maybe 2000. As for a series I or II, upwards of 6 or 7 grand most likely, if you can even find one. Never seen an early series on CL, just series III and up.

That's too bad, I hope it's still long enough to carry 8ft lumber. That's the utility test for me

Salty girl

Ouch. I’ve seen the prices of series vehicles and defenders in Finland and the USA. Stupid money.

Just got in my series to go to town. Won’t start. Classic. It will start up fine in snow, rain, hail and anything else you can throw at it but heaven forbid a start on a sunny day

Ran into a problem with the dart on my way to work. It goes into gear just fine, but its hard to make the shifter go back and forth between R,1 to 2,3. I notice its only an issue when its cold (or at least not one in the afternoom). Anyone else have this issue with a 3 on the tree before?

Nigga

Did you try looking at it?

Shift linkage is probably worn the fuck out like every other 3 on the tree, parts are probably obsolete as well.

There's a reason most get converted to a floor shifter

This is completely normal. The linkage is just gummy. I have heard of people using spray oil for a quick fix

Update; if release the clutch and repress it, it shifts just fine.
Not yet. Between it being below freezing and me being on watch while i wait for a 3 star admiral to show, i wont get a chance till after 5.
I was reading that its a common problem, something about the rubber bushings. Ill try the oil trick to get me by till i get it in the shop for a few various things.

Well my time working on my car has come to an end for a few months. I'm happy with the work I got done on it, I'll probably send it to a shop to get stripped and primed when I'm in school.

>granny shifting
What a surprise

Cant power shift a 3 on tree

426 68 charger

Not with that attitude

V8?

No, it’s an ex military one. Original 2.25l petrol

Welp just fucked up my knee launching and rolling a snowmobile, silver lining is I did break through the ice.
But the worse news is the guy that was going to strip and prime my body and sub said he was too booked and that I'll have to wait a few months.

>drive a classic car
>people at work think this automatically means I known about maintenance
>don't know a damn thing but don't want to admit it
Send help

Just tell them you don't know much about newer cars, or just admit you know nothing about mechanics. Or start to learn about basic maintenance, it can never hurt to know.

Coastie I thought you might be interested in this, as well as any other SL6 owners. I recommend you join this fb group as well as slantsix.org. If you can bear to have normiebook..

hotrodremedies.com/turbo-slant-six-parts-list/

Slantsixdan is anal but he's alright.

Anyone who needs advice on Quadrajets ask Cliff he is the master
cliffshighperformance.com/simplemachinesforum/

Thoughts anybody? I know its barely a classic, but I know theres some Benz people in here. Sister needs a beater car and wants something sort of interesting. They seem simple enough and parts are pretty cheap. Anything I should watch out for? Difficult repairs? Common failures? Not really concerned about the srs light, but I am somewhat concerned about the hvac not being tested. Is that a red flag on these cars?

dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/mercedes-benz-190e/6433297368.html

Drac, I missed the details on your packard in the last thread. Fill me in, with a couple pics? I8, that's interesting, never heard of that before.

A progress pic of the dart.

It's a 1950; 327 I8. The body is in really bad shape; like, find another car, bad, but it has upgraded dual master brakes that work great, a new fuel tank, and more. I'm going to paint it flat black and drive it like a beater while fixing it up.

The starter will be done Monday, or so, so it should be running by Friday.