I guess I'll go ahead and give real advice.
From an underwriting perspective, which is my most recent job prior to going into business myself, prior to that, for over 11 ears, I was a finance director for a major automotive group. Now thy credentials are out of the way, here's a quick 'splanation.
While you are an authorized user on a high-ishimit credit card and make $90k/year, your score of 750 is "fake". You have not demonstrated an ability to pay installments and or revolving advances over time.
You are probably young (I believe age may have been mentioned, but after reason down, I lost the plot a bit). Being that you are young and have never had a major installment loan, suck as a car, home or other set purchase amount with set rates locked in over a period of time, you are what's considered a First Time Buyer. In my opinion, the highest risk demographic out there. (Opinion based on experience).
Being that you are a high risk demographic, young, no resale credit if your own, zero history and probably short job time, you are going to be treated as such.
There is a way to buy your credit, and that's called equity. You have ability, buy you are mission the other two legs of the credit stool, which are stability and willingness. So to make a bank buy your loan at a lower rate, you need to lower the advance. 80% is a good starting point. Not by way of JUST discount and rebates if on a new car or discount alone on a used car. But by putting real cash as a way to make he loan more attractive to a lender.
If you're a recent college grad or about to graduate, then there are banks, like BB&T, who have a cool program for people like you. First time buyers with a degree and a job or at least an offer.
You still have to lay out cash, just not as much.
Otherwise, whatever your states max usury law is, that's pretty much what you are going to get.
On a side note, as long as aforementioned Camry is not a high mileage unit, good collateral helps