Who makes the best tools?

Their quality and range is second to none. Dont have any myself, cant justify it for my hobby wrenching

This guy knows what the fuck he's talking about.

Wrong photo... I'm not that messy, I swear

>Harbor freight

Nice collection of trash-robi

>cryobi

>Harbor Freight Earthquake

i thought these were supposed to be okay, made in taiwan

>not living the poorfag lyfe

youtube.com/watch?v=UkPzjV-ZaTU

I'm a home gamer.

I have an 18V Snap-On CT6850 impact wrench as well as a Snappy pneumatic impact. My drills and drivers are Milwaukee.

Ratchets are all Snap-On

Screwdrivers are also all Snap-on

Wrenches are a hodge podge of Gearwrench, Blue-Point, Craftsman, and Proto.

Sockets are a hodgepodge of Craftsman, Speedmaster, and Mac.

Pliers are mostly Mac branded Knipex, with a few Klein and ChannelLock.

Though yes, I do have some nice fucking tools, I collected them piecemeal here and there, plus had a lot of hand-me-downs from my dad and father-in-law. I have a lot less cash in them than you would think. A lot of Facebook marketplace, CL, eBay, and pawn shop finds. You can absolutely have nice shit without breaking the bank.

A tool is a tool is a tool.
Unless you are a tool, you can use any tool.
Some tools are indeed better than others, but they will get the job done.
For instance, a Harbor Freight tool is a good tool if you only plan to use it a couple times; but it WILL work. Some of their things actually do work very well if not abused.
Personally, I just buy Craftsman all the time. The lifetime warranty and affordability sell it for me. But, perhaps it is because I grew up using my father's Craftsman tools and he grew up using his father's Craftsman tools.

Pic related, fixed with Craftsman tools.

>old ass electric impact
>shitty 12 point wrenches
>craftsman box

>nice fucking tools

Today's Crapsman isn't the same as your dad and granddad's Craftsman.

It does still have the same warranty though, so there's that.

I scored the impact with 2 batteries and a charger for $135.

Not too many 6 point wrenches out there, dude. All of my sockets are 6 point.

I have two Craftsman boxes, both of which are American made. And for only a couple of bucks more than a HF US General piece of shit, they are about 10x the quality.

Would I like a Macsimizer or Snap-on? Sure. But, as I said in my post, I'm a home gamer. I just can't justify the price difference from the American made Craftsman, even if I were to score one used.

People are always calling it crap, but I have never had any problems with my tools. I dunno, maybe I'm just using them correctly. If you manage to break something, walk into Sears and they hand you a new one. What's not to love?

Just the feel of the tools, dude. They just aren't the same as they used to be. Pick up a 20 year old Craftsman wrench, compare it to a brand new one. The new ones just feel cheap. They are about the same as Pittsburgh from HF now. Pittsburgh has a lifetime warranty, too.

These are actually pretty damn good for the price. I bought one just for the track, but ended up using it all the time at home, I rarely break out the old trusty IR anymore.

I have and they feel the same.
The old raised-panel, made in the USA combination wrenches feel the same as the new smooth-chrome, made in China ones.
They both turn bolts all the same.
I fixed my truck with new made in China stuff and old made in USA stuff, and I could not tell any difference between the ratchets, wrenches, and sockets (except for aesthetics of the wrenches, the ratchets and sockets were identical).

> have two Craftsman boxes, both of which are American made. And for only a couple of bucks more than a HF US General piece of shit, they are about 10x the quality.

You're sleeping on US General boxes if you genuinely think they're shit

hitachi

In comparison to mine, yes, they're shit. The HF box is flimsier, and the drawers don't slide nearly as well as my Craftsman.

It is what it is.

The horrible freight boxes really are shit. I was really close to buying the 72", but ended up with a old beat up strap on off CL for a little more. It certainly is 10x better even if it looks like shit.

Whats wrong with it?

Cheap, tons of stuff in the One+ line, and it meets my hobby demands

(I also have the angle grinder, not pictured)

These people will always talk trash about every tool that isn't Tamp-on, but they have never turned wrench in their entire lives. They just FEEL that those tools are poo because they hear from other ignorant fucks posting about how they also FEEL those tools are poo.
It is a self-perpetuation scat-fest.
A real mechanic can make do with any tool.

Make-do; sure. When you start using tools 8 hours 5 days a week then you really notice difference in all aspects; ergonomics, power, durability and so on

>Hard to justify the price if you're a home-gamer though.
Get the fuck out of here poorfaggot

>What's wrong with it?

And you immediately answered yourself
>Cheap

Granted, I buy Ryobi tools too. Haven't tried their cordless options as I already have a few Milwaukee tools. Started off with the impact and expanded from there.

My number one complaint with Ryobis corded tools are the cord itself. It's simply a very cheap cord with no flexibility the moment it gets cold outside.

tack-on is not a leader in any of those categories.

Best = tool that will maximize revenue and minimize overhead

For me, a homeowner, I go with Ryobi for electric, harbor freight for air compressed. For you that might be Snap On.

We don't know you or your situation.

Show us your expensive tool collection then

I bought all of my tools while i was working professionally, and had an allowable amount of tool purchases that i could write off on my taxes.

So you dont own any of the tools you criticized me over, and you havent tried them?

Whats a better option for me then?

Please, tell me how those Snap-on tools will make the removal, repair, and re-installation of a 600-pound transmission, 3 feet off the ground, any easier. Oh yeah, see that lift-table? That's Harbor Freight.

My father, an aircraft mechanic of 35 years, uses Craftsman tools, with random tools from all manufacturers. Do you want to tell him that he shouldn't be using those tools, because they don't say Tamp-on? Come off it, dude.

And you do this type of work every work day, using those tools?

I'm not saying you'll fucking fail something because its the wrong brand, I am saying that there are both big and small things that make huge differences in a tool

The shape of the handle, the amount of teeth in the ratchet, quality of the CV, access to repair kits, power of the electric motor, how well a rubber seal survives cold temperatures.

I have 40 year old cheap tools that still function fine after 20+ years of abuse from my granduncle, and I have cheap tools that broke after barely a week

What I am trying to get across is that all tools should be able to get the job done, but when you work professionaly with stuff its very rarely not worth investing in higher quality tools, especially stuff like electric hand tools, air tools, compressors, fine toothed ratchets and more. A wrench is a wrench, there is not the worlds biggest difference - but compare my cheapo Ryobi impact to a similarly specced Makita and you'll quickly feel that there are rather large differences, even if they do pretty much the same job and hit about equally hard

My cordless power stuff is mostly DeWalt they are the shit, corded stuff is makita.

Hand tools I have a couple snapon Ratchets and a bunch of Tekton sockets. They are pretty okay

>work professionally using those tools
If you do, then why would you buy Ryobi and not Makita? You are contradicting yourself, no?

I don't turn wrench for a living; I am a physicist. However, I fix shit in the lab and in the garage. Not once have I said, "Golly gee wilikers, this Snap-on tool sure is swell! Beats the heck out of my Craftsman garbage!"

75 vs 100 tooth ratchets? Sure, I have been in situations where a finer-tooth ratchet would have been ideal, but I still got the job done without it. Now if there is something truly innovative, exclusive to one manufacturer, then fine, they are probably to be held in high-regard. Things like shape of handle, smooth chrome, etc, is entirely subjective, and doesn't make any tools better or worse than the other.

What I find astounding is right at the end you agree with me. All tools should be able to get the job done. A tool is a tool. Tamp-on or Harbor Freight, if it turns bolts, then it's a useful tool. If you try and break a 3" nut torqued to 800ft-lbs with a 1/4" drive ratchet and it breaks, then that's because you're a fucking idiot, not because the tool was junk.

So what's the best?

Ya'll just keep bickering.

I like milwaukee power tools, other brands might have slightly better tools but I'm not gonna have 5 different battery chargers and no cross compatibility between batteries.
Also lots of brands simply don't have the tool I want and milwaukee seems to have everything I've needed.
Makings and dewalt don't even fucking sell an electric ratchet lol.

Makita and dewalt*
For hand tools it's all a mix of random shit, there are too many good brands to even bother listing them

Power tools, hilti.

None of this Milwaukee, Dewalt, makita prosumer shit.

wh*te people are tools kek

We've been through this before you dumb nigger

That's literally not a ratchet, it doesn't have a ratcheting mechanism and cannot be used as a ratchet
Milwaukee makes one of these too and it's totally useless.

Dewalt makes a pretty good air ratchet though

I don't use air anymore, I've gone completely electric and don't have to carry a compressor anymore.
Every tool I buy is m12 or m18 at this point, all my batteries are cross compatible and the selection of tools is massive.

It's literally performing the same function as an electric ratchet. If anything it's better because it has more torque. If you're using a power tool to put something on that can't take a slight amount of torque, you should be using a hand tool anyways.

>I'm a home gamer
what

>Makings and dewalt don't even fucking sell an electric ratchet lol.

>Milwaukee makes one of these too and it's totally useless.

Tripfags, everyone.

>shit on companies for not making certain tool
>proceed to tell everything that type of tool is shit anyways

Are you being a nigger on purpose you anemic cumstain?

It has less torque than the milwaukee m12 ratchet and you CANNOT USE IT AS A RATCHET.
If it can't break the bolt free with its measly 44ft lbs then you have to go get an impact or a real ratchet to do it.
You cannot use it as a ratchet, if you try to it just turns freely.
You can't break bolts free with it like the m12 ratchet and you can't torque bolts beyond whatever torque it can supply.
It's useless.

>tfw used snapon box

plebs

It's a useless tool regardless of the manufacturer, the makita one is shit, the milwaukee one is shit.
They're both shit.

>taking tool advice from a fur fag who spun out at 20mph.
Yeah, I'll pass. Electric still doesn't have enough power for some of what I do. At least not for more than a few uses. Before the day is over I'll have to swap batteries a few times. Don't really have this problem. Rigged up the shop at home to have air. Compressor is kept in a different room. No noise, all the power all the time.
>inb4 that about on the go
Properly wrenched shit box doesn't need repair on the go.

I do mobile mechanic work lol, I need portability.
Also, not enough power?
What? Explain in detail.

why the fuck would you put a socket on a power tool only to use it manually as a ratchet

are you some kind of contrarian faggot

i doubt you've ever done an oil change, let alone used these tools for real work

i bet those batteries spend more time up your asshole than in those tools

>I steal car stereos and wheels

Fucking nigger.

>44ft lbs
So if a lug is at 80+ ft lbs you have to reach for the impact? Your girly ass can't loosen lugs at factory spec? Smh.

>why the fuck would you put a socket on a power tool only to use it manually as a ratchet
Because the tool only produces 40ft lb of torque, most fasteners are tighter that and need to be tight beyond that.
The fact you're saying I don't wrench is a projection lol, I ran a fucking shop for two years and now do mobile work.

The tool literally won't let you turn it.
It just spins, it's not a ratchet.
What the fuck do you think I've been saying?

I have a porter cable 6gal Compressor and a 10gal reserve I rigged up that I bust out for hard jobs like axle nuts. I have a 700lbft impact for it to rip shit off and my dad got me an air ratchet to go with it. It makes diy work pretty fast and easy. The Compressor can have a rough time with the ratchet, but I use my electric stuff most the time so it doesn't burn up.

Don't bother arguing with them.
If its not Tamp-on or Makita, then it is trash.
Haven't you read the thread???

See that button you press? To make it spin? That's so you don't have to turn it by hand.

Do you even understand the basic concept behind power tools you inbred fucklord?

My electric impact does over 1000ftlb, I've yet to run into anything it can't take off.
The new version of mine does 1200, shit is retarded.

This, you are kidding yourself if you think one POS chink tool is better than another because it's a different color.

>I made fur suits and had sex with men for 2 fucking years

That button only applies 40ft lbs, that's not enough to undo half the fasteners on a car.
Are you retarded?

Air-powered tools are generally cheaper than electric tools and are intended to be easily and frequently replaced. Compared to electric tools, air-powered versions are lighter and smaller, but they pack the same (or often higher) amount of punch. As airflow from the compressor is adjustable, air tools can deliver more torque and RPM, enabling you to finish jobs faster and easier.

You ran a shop and don't know air power is stronger? I've burned out multiple cordless impact guns. Taking apart and assembling various projects. Last one I killed happened assembling a trailer for my kayaks. Half way through the battery gave out. Swapped batteries and while bolting the frame to the leaf springs the impact started smoking. Maybe just a lemon. Makita might just suck. All I know is that my air impact finished the job quicker and got bolts tighter. Even went back to snug up a few bolts that rattled.

70% of the bolts on a vehicle don't need to be torqued past 44lbs. Aside from lug nuts and major drivetain parts like flanges or diffs, you don't need to RAM everything down to 30000lbs.

And in a lot of cases, you would be able to use an impact wrench, and not need an electric ratchet. The electric ratchet is a specific tool meant to help in tight spaces, it's not a fix-all. Different tools for different jobs, and an electric ratchet does a lot of them. You're an idiot for criticizing it because it can't do EVERYTHING.

Also you didn't run shit, you were probably a grease monkey who had to fetch the cum rags out of seatfolds in crusty EGs.

Then you get an impact wrench you dumb cunt. What part of this aren't you understanding?

>this tool doesn't do everything so it's shit

>have snapon 3/8 electric impact (18v lithium)
>cant even take off lugnuts

>spends 3 months wages on an electric ratchet
>instead of just buying a combo pack of cordless tools from Home Depot for $799
>wonders why he's in this retarded situation

I just don't have $500 to blow on that tier of tool, I just don't do enough work on my own to justify the cost. I like the versatility of air too. Though I love my 3/8 dewalt impact. It does like 100lbft which is perfect for pretty much anything

He never mentioned lugs.

My impact was 150 dollars new and it has more torque than my air powered guns, it lasts forever with the 9 amp hour battery as well.
Sounds like you bought a junk gun, what brand was it?
Air is stronger? Not in my case.
You're making generalizations and it's a weak argument. Try comparing actual brands and numbers.

I do real work on cars, suspension, steering, drive train, dropping engines and axles and transmissions.
I need a tool that will give me more than 40ft lb of torque.
The electric ratchet lets me break a bolt free by hand, up to 100ft lb, then use the electric power to get it out easily and quickly.
The makita does not allow you to break a bolt free manually, the milwaukee ratchet does.

>hey guys watch me use this cordless 12 volt ratchet to undo lug nuts torqued down to 85lbs

>WTF PIECE OF SHIT FUCK FUCK FUCK TRIGGERED GARBAGE SHIT TOOL OMFG

Yes, you must be a great mechanic.

Why would I do that when I can just break it free with the same tool then spin it off?
The makita won't allow that, the milwaukee will and therefor saves time and effort.
The milwaukee does it all, that's why I'm saying don't bother with that makita tool.
My milwaukee m18 half inch impact was only 150 dollars, 1000ft lb and lasts forever.

>3 months wages to make $600

lmaoing at your life

>dropping engines and axles
>side of the road repair

Who said anything about lug nuts?
The milwaukee ratchet will allow me to manually break any bolt free up to 100ft lb then use the electric portion of the tool to remove the fastener.
The makita simply won't allow that, you'd have to get another tool to remove the bolt.
Also, milwaukee ratchet has 60ft lb of torque while being smaller and lighter than the makita and having a real ratchet mechanism to break free stubborn bolts manually.

>mrcummy ""roadside""
>not jacking off dudes in a fur suit

Ive done it before.

>using a ratchet of any kind to BREAK FREE bolts

God damn you are one USELESS nigger. No wonder you're unemployed.

Breaker bars are for high torque scenarios, 60ft lb simply doesn't justify their use.

Lmao, you right.
Dropping the engine to access them pushrods.

In all fairness, you don't go straight to the breaker bar for every fastener. If you cannot break it free using a ratchet, then you go to the breaker bar.

Yet you use an electric impact in low torque scenarios?
A tool with an uncontrollable amount of torque is better than the "un justified" tool that gives you more control. Need less power? Just don't lay your fat ass into it as much. Need more? Put your ass in it. The minute it's loose use fingers.

He's just trying too hard, he knows he's being a retard.

Who said I use an electric impact for low torque scenarios?
Where are you getting this?

Holy cow, does no one else see how shit a design this breaker bar is?
The fucking head will break apart if under high-load.
Now this is a proper breaker bar, the head is encapsulated by the bar.

You literally just got BTFO by like 10 people in this thread, and you're still going that route?

Bitch please, if I didn't think you'd like it I would put my whole fist up your ass right now. Absolute shit tripfag behaviour.

Same place you get your story of running a shop.
Out of your ass.