I done goofed...cut it out or just buy whole new bed

i done goofed...cut it out or just buy whole new bed

learn to drive

>hitting shit
Kys

shit happens..buddy was backing a trailer around a corner and didnt see him

Leave it. Tape up the taillight and spray paint the shit out of it so it doesn't rust.

Who the fuck cares? It's a truck.

just get a new taillight. It's just cosmetic

It's a truck user, just tape it over.

Learn how to use Bondo and apply it like every other [minority here]. After paint it should last you a couple of years before it disintegrates.

I'd say step one should be stop driving around on bald tires

just pound it out enough so that you can replace the tail light. Spray over affected areas with rust inhibiting spray paint.

Like others said, it's a truck. It's not like you take particularly good care of it judging by the photo.

check under the bed liner for rust

its a chevy, just throw it away and go get a prius. itll be quite the power upgrade

Itt we learn that trucks increase in value the more you beat them the fuck up.

I left mine with damage like that after some bitch hit me. Not worth the headache. If you live in a place where it rusts try and patch it. If not, who cares.

>t. 05 Silverado 2500HD 8.1 4x4

>mfw a truck like that costs something like 30k$ in yurop and people still let them degenerate like this

You have to be blind to not see one here. They sell like a million per year and they cost like 3-10k used kek

reeeeeee
And here I had to buy an avalanche with a blown transmission for like 5k

AYYYY I GOT AN AVALANCHE
STEP UP NIGGA I BLEW MINE AND REPLACED IT FOR 500 BUCKS

lmao, Avs are fucking great even though they're niggermobiles
my replace set me 1k back

Honestly, you guys don't know how good you have it. I had to pay like 2500$ dollar for a truck engine when ls swapping a trans am
God bless America desu

Mines an 05. Pristine condition and 140k miles and the trans killed itself at 136k. I don’t even think anything was wrong. Just whined at low speeds.

>I don’t even think anything was wrong. Just whined at low speeds.
Then why replace?

mine's at 160k miles, would just freewheel when in 3rd gear
Bought it like that and drove it 200 miles on second gear home where I got a tranny with like 60k on it

4L60E Electronically controlled trans.
No TV cable to deal with or shifting linkage. It has pump pressure control and shifting via electronics. Not much good to say about this expensive trans. It is virtually a 700R4 with a modern twist. Most of the same issues as the 700R4. Terrible choice. Very expensive to build up to a high power handling level. Can cost up to $4,000 to build this trans up to a decent level. Computer controlled engines may require this unless you bypass the car’s computer system. Complex. Very complex! Pointless to run such a terrible transmission. If you insist on such a trans, the 4L80E is a better choice, as it has a normal gear spread, and is a much stronger trans. Still pointless.

Nigga, I'm happy if it hauls my ass, my girls ass and my sled on the bed. No need for it to handle high power

>computers equals complex
come on man

Junkyard bedside and a tail light, done.

A whole new bed? Its a 15+ year old truck just get it back to functional and move on...

Better safe than sorry

>cut it out or just buy whole new bed
It can be a two stage process where you push out the largest parts of the dent before going to handheld PDR tools to even out the crease points.

Put down some friction mat on the bed, then lie on that and put your shoes firmly on the dent and push against it. As long as you don't wear clothing that is slippery against your body, you can get a bit of pushing force. Do NOT kick. Gently applied pressure in pulses works here. Don't use a hammer as that makes a ton of dents and cracks the paint with each impact. A rubber mallet is not recommended unless you are using it as a pushing object for your foot.

After you push out the biggest parts of the dent, you can then use PDR tools to try to restore some of the original flared countour. After that, you can smooth out the sharp crease areas.

>buy a whole new bed
This picture is an example of when to get a new 4x4 truck bed.

>this
I have a black truck and just spray some black on when it gets scraped etc
It’s a truck and I use it that way.
Who cares? it’s a truck
...my car on the other hand

1500 series avalanches are known for their shit tranny
unfortunately, the 2500 uses the fucking beast 8100 vortec
if only they had used the lq4 instead.

It's a truck bro, shit happens, keep driving it and give no fucks.
Work trucks aren't meant to be nice.

da fug goys???
you want to know what I would do?
you really want to know?

I would have a red solo cup cut and attached over the light
I would use used oil and a paintbrush on all that to prevent rust

>unfortunately

>I would have a red solo cup cut and attached over the light
That would last one day here because as soon as any police officer sees a car with off color brake lights or one brake light is brighter than the other, they pull that car over for a "Fix It" citation.

Don't know how the law works if someone rear ends a car that has defective brake lights. Presumably the person who did the hitting is still at fault.

Ah, so this is the power of high strength steel.

>old beater truck

battle scar bro

>when a shopping cart hits your ford

Take a ball-peen hammer to it, hit it back into place as best you can, seal it with JB Weld, and replace the taillight.
Fixed.

Insurance?

>Take a ball-peen hammer to it
NO, that makes a ton of dome-like dents. The cure should always be better than the problem and not the other way around.

>Insurance?
That can backfire in terms of costs. It would be a chargeable incident. To reduce the number of "blame points" or whatever secret points the insurance company assigns to a client for each incident, OP can say he parked the car and when he came back the damage was there. Thus, he would be telling a lie and that is technically insurance fraud. But he would reduce the amount of points the company assigns to him for use by their secret algorithm process for calculating the customized risk profile of each customer.

That's a duramax hd, they sell for that here too, used. New one's can cost over $70k

What sort of shitty metal does ford use? That's ridiculous rust.

Salt will do that to any car mate, especially a ~20 year old one that saw a winter every year.

Bash it out with a hammer

I'd do this since I'm not rich

>What sort of shitty metal does ford use? That's ridiculous rust.
If the truck is driven over gravel roads, the rusted metal is worn away even faster by all the sand and gravel pinging away at the rusted surface and chipping it all away. After a bunch of alternating seasons of winter salt rust and summer grit/gravel grind-away, the metal in those fender wells is worn away like you see. Mine are lined with durable plastic to prevent that.

Haha fordcucks and their shitty aluminum be-

>shitty aluminum
Aluminum is the only alternative choice. Stainless steel truck beds don't work out. Truck liners still scratch away at the paint and rust develops and is hidden by the liner, but as long as there is some ventilation, the liquid will dry out. With aluminum truck beds, strong liners are necessary. Some of those thin hard plastic liners don't provide much impact protection against penetration.

Aluminum doesn't rust away, but it can be much easier to penetrate than steel.

Land Rover defenders and series vehicles are dirt cheap here but extortionate in the USA.

It’s all relative

>$4000

nigger 4l60e is like $1800 built, can be built yourself for like half that

>when a chebby owner takes my bait

That's why you get spray in liner, drop in is trash

our '99 s10 has a drop in liner and the bed is clean as fuck underneath. little scratched but it was prolly like that before the liner was in


who would go on the internet and just tell lies

>Truck liners still scratch away at the paint and rust develops and is hidden by the liner.

Man. I once took off my drop in liner to check out my bed. It was fine on a 25 year old pickup. I didn't put it back on and after two days of moving around equipment without it my bed was totally and utterly fucking scratched up in many places down to the metal.

So the only time a drop in bed liner scratching your bed is a concern is when you don't actually use your truck like a truck.

>With aluminum truck beds, strong liners are necessary. Some of those thin hard plastic liners don't provide much impact protection against penetration.

Defenders and series land rovers have gotten by fine without them for decades.

>who would go on the internet and just tell lies
People who got dirt and water underneath the drop in liner and it rusted. That's who. Not everyone has a great experience.

>i done goofed...cut it out or just buy whole new bed
OP, what are you going to do?

Replace the cluster and duct tape the edges. Fuck the dent. It's an old Chevy pickup, not a soyboy-mobile.

this.
I bought mine battle scarred and added some more.
Thing still starts, hauls, and gets me where i need to go.

Besides, chicks dig beat up beast trucks, it lets them know yur not a pussy.

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