Yes, they're both around 25k. There is less need to go up in trim levels if you're after performance in the 86 than the MX5 because the 86 comes with the LSD in basic trim where you need to upgrade to the club trim (almost 29k) for the LSD in the MX5. If you're looking at that price then for just under 30k, you can get a fully decked out BRZ limited with PP which means you get the nicer wheels, suspension and Brembos. If you want the Brembos on the Miata, you're now looking at an additional 3400 putting the car at ~33k for something similarly equipped to the 30k BRZ. Close enough that if you're really after the roadster, then you can probably go for it but far enough away that if you're on the fence or prefer the BRZ, it will probably sway your decision.
25k for a race car chassis
>spend around 25k
>get a base cayman
>75k miles
>spend around 28k
>get s
No thank you.
It's a niche vehicle to begin with so I'm mostly with you on this. I'd recommend anyone looking to buy new to consider finding a good used example with a few miles on it instead. No reason you can't talk a private seller down to 15k on something with 60k miles and the car will still outlast your interest in it.
The only exception to this a single guy with no personal mechanical skill/time/space but wants to blast down some twisty roads on weekends and only has space for a single vehicle. That was me when I was living in an apartment. Had tons of disposable income but not much time to spend it. Got the BRZ because I liked how it looked.
Now I have a house and I've modified mine and autocrossed and tracked it extensively. I'm happy to report it's held up to everything I've given it so far.
Honestly, don't go to town modding an 86, there is a point of diminishing returns and it starts once you turbo or supercharge it.
For autocross, you can stay in street class by just upgrading to whatever the current top autocross tire is and get the most aggressive alignment you can. You can upgrade struts too but that's all you can do outside of a few specific exceptions.
Anything beyond that will put you into street touring. If you want to be competitive, you are going to go full basic bolt-ons: wheels and tires, coilovers, brakes, headers and ecu tune. Add an oil-cooler if you want to go on track too.
Honestly, I think this is the sweet spot for these cars. You haven't dumped an enormous amount of money (maybe about 5k) and at this point, you haven't done anything to negatively impact reliability but you've increased the performance across the board quite a bit and made it look much better too.
I think that anything beyond the above is reserved for the 86 enthusiast who loves their car and I mean the person who doesn't care that he's spent more on his car than a new Camaro SS 1LE but it's still not as fast or reliable.
>all your points are about the interior
Just buy an SUV dude
>saved up a little more
You need to save upwards of 10k or more for the next best thing, which is a porsche
my cayman s was 17k, with 75k miles. I think the real trick is to just find one that's being sold by another car enthusiast; make sure it's been well taken-care of, all of the documentation is there, and you should be good to go.
>Implying Subaru engines above 2L are any good
I mean did the US learned from its shitty EJ25 STIs?
Because the Ej20 is better
>le ebin all cars in production cost sticker price meme
My friend got a brand new one from dealer for 20k.
You can get used ones for up to 15k.
But yeah its a great goddamn chassis
>drag racing
>relevant
lmao apply yourself busrider
>race car
K E K