/mg/ - Miata General

lewd

I am torn between performance mods and improving the looks.

Just look at this amazing specimen.

She's not afraid to play around in my mud ;)))

ayuh bub

what color wheels look best with merlot mica? need new ones

I love the BBSs but at 6in wide they look like ass after i installed coils.

>mfw I regret getting my NA and wish I would've got the NB.

How about bronze?
>6 inch wheels
Wow like a Prius.
I got 9 inch, wish I had 8.

how long did you look before finding that perfect miata?

why?

NB has a way better body style than the NA

>Climb on in. We all drift in here. You'll drift too!

...

about two days
One day I woke up and decided I didn't just want a Miata, I needed one. So I jumped on the first manual one I found, traded the FWD econobox I was driving for it, and never looked back. I figured a shitty Miata is better than no Miata. Seems like they can take a lot of abuse and neglect before unreliability starts.

About 18 months until the almost perfect one popped up. An all original, one owner, 10k mile 93. The only thing that I would've changed is the color.

>93
>10k miles
fucking score, nice catch

Can anyone tell me if there's a way to get a better place to mount my license plate?
I really don't like it on the front in general, but i hate it front and center

I took out one of the baby teeth, bent some aluminium bar to mount it off to the side, and bolted it down using the screws for the baby teeth. It doesn't block airflow and it looks fine to me
pic related

Friendly reminder about plushie color poll:
strawpoll.me/14868541

Everybody is too polite. Im gunna say what we are all thinking. The fucking thing looks like shit. Especially compared to the twingo plush. It needs a complete reworking.

I agree with this fella. It looks bad and not cute at all.
Drop the open roof idea and give it a hardtop or closed roof. Open roof is only good as slippers. Un-ugly the front so it wont look like fetal alcohol syndrome, move headlights further together. This thing is unsellable in current state.

Just make them like this but bigger.

Nuigurumax is the brand. These things are walnut sized. Just buy one and scale it up to twingo plushie size. I dont care if cost goes up. Id gladly pay ~$40 max if all colorways, headlights up/down, hardtop/no top is offered.

Are those the oem bbs wheels that came with the special edition cars? I picked up a beat up set for free (traded my buddy who was selling his for my daisies) cleaned them up painted and grinder to the curb rash. They make the perfect winter wheels. I run 949 6uls 15x8 with yokohama s.drives in the summer.

The theory is that a narrower wheel is better for cutting through snow + ice. I havent been stuck or sliding without meaning to since i swapped them when local temps dropped lower than 50f.

yep original to the 95m. they're the second lightest wheels offered on a miata (the 14" BBS are lighter)

Dirty Miat, just took this pic.

Here's a less /p/hotogenic shot, but dat golden moth logo.

Should I buy a turbo?
I kinda feel like it would ruin the cuteness of my car. Also I don't know dick about tuning, and I wouldn't want to hurt her, so I'd probably get it done professionally.
How much am I looking at?
>01 mx5 se
also if she has 63k miles, what kind of defects should I be looking for?

Get a megasquirt. The diypnp and learn to put it together or take it to a mom n pop electronics place. This is your cheapest route + the wideband will cost ~$800. Next buy a kit from lars. This is the most respected bang for your buck setup on the forums that matter.
mkturbo.com

With a tune from a good shop youre looking at $2k total. Expect upper 200s hp and torque.

If you've had your car for less than a year and aren't 100% sure you want a turbo, I would say dont do it...yet. Enjoy the car as it is and if you eventually decide you want more power then go for it.

+1 on this if you do decide to do it. Get a MS and learn how to tune while the car is still N/A. Then do the rest in logical steps. Upper 200s seems like a stretch on a stock motor though.

The stock motor can handle approximately 250hp before the rods will go. They are the weakpoint and the figures i give from that kit are on the very optimistic end. For a more reliable long term street tune, id aim for 220 hp.

Soft top up visible is terrible. Jesus.

Yeah 220 is way more realistic. I think anything much more than that and it's only a matter of time before your engine goes kablooey. Though I think the mkturbo kit is capable of a lot more power if you just dont give a fuck.

Is there a reason you removed the marker lights? I've heard a lot of people say that having them open will decrease your cooling efficiency.

tbqh I keep mine on my dash it all depends on the state you live in but ive never had a cop say anything about it and if they did then id just say that the old holes and it was falling off or they were stripped or something

can anyone post a link or a pic of the miata plush?

I did a similar thing though a used a different 10mm bolt and I still have the babby teeth. I ran it for a number of years until I realized my bracket was allowing the plate to bend back at speed and it wore a spot right through my paint where it was rubbing the bumper.

Last year I bought the Garage Vary bracket which is very nice and super rigid. It's meant to clamp to the baby tooth so if you have them removed it's not a good option.

I relocated my blinkers into the corners of the “mouth”. Im using round motorcycle lights. You can see them in the 1st post in this thread. Ive never had a problem with cooling or overheating on street or track and i run drift days sometimes. Also, i put together a cold side intake and stainless header setup that benefits from the bay having as much airflow as possible. I did plenty of research and ive read that it creates turbulence that can affect the efficiency if the radiator but i combat by running without fenderliners. Ive read that this gives the air a low pressure place to go and at speed is beneficial to cooling the engine and providing cooler intake temps.

Ive also got a/c and dual fans. Might help. I dont know.

Well if it work fine then I cant argue against it. The explanation Ive seen is that having intakes in the lights causes higher pressure in the engine bay, which means there is less airflow through the rad. for best cooling efficiency you want to minimize the pressure in the area behind the radiator.

Unless you rewired it, the AC fan will only come on when the AC is on.

you took an all original one owner 93 and fucking stanced it?

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but are these other roadsters worth buying?
BMW Z3 cabrio, volvo 480, mr2 zzw30, 2001 celica, audi tt mk1

that is clearly not stanced, just lowered on fancy wheels.

i'd say since it has rolled fenders and probably will still rub that it has been stanced

t. boomer

he doesn't have enough negative camber for it to be considered stance

stance doesn't necessarily mean 30 deg negative camber

the entire concept of stance implies noticably large amounts of camber, that's what gives the style its "stance". A lowered car with road alignment is not stanced, it's just lowered.

The car's wheels fit nicely inside the wheel wells and it looks good

they made a million of these cars, doesn't matter what he does to his, there are always more. always

You can make the tires rub on a stock Miata with 16x8s, that doesn't mean shit.

when will NDs be cheap?

when NFs come out

but i'll probably want an NF then

maybe you'll be less poor then

What if the NF Miata is just an NA Miata with a stiffer frame, better engine, better suspension, better drivetrain, and more safety features and electronics?

true that senpai. I could afford an ND if I dailied it but i'm enjoying my FiST still. been looking for a nice NA8 for a while now but its hard

>wanting an NA over a FiST
you better stick a turbo in it

an NA8 would be in addition to the FiST