Tacoma 4 cylinder engine

Are you in california by chance? When I build one on the website using my Philly zip I can select v6 for the SR trim.
Both bumpers are black, and it has the SR dash

Modern small direct injected diesels are useless until the turbo kicks in. At low revs nothing happens, whereas older indirect injection engines didn't have that problem.
You have to rev the shit out of these sub 3-liter modern diesels to get them to move which is funny considering they run out of breath at 3500rpm.

I dunno man.

I run commercial N/A diesels and you can definitely tell when they are off the cam profile and they are still terrible on the cam.

And least with those euro diesels there is a sense of "BRAP" to a degree when the turbo kicks in

I, for one, WOULD have been interested. I was thinking about buying a new vehicle instead of used this time, so I went to Toyota's B&P page for the Tacoma only to find out they discontinued the 2.7L and 5-speed pairing. I fucking hate the state of modern """mid-sized""" pickups. I'd look at a Colorado for a manual, but >GDI

Its a buisness, they probably have a higher margin on this item thats all there is to it

I just drop it down a gear to climb hills. It revs high, but goes like a champ.

It's only recently hit me that a v engine has 2 (TWO) head gaskets. I mean ive known that but I've only just really thought about that. Fuck having to change a head gasket twice. Inline engine master race

I think you have a rare find Senpai. Even when I use multiple zips I keep getting 4cyl as the only option.

Yes I use a California zip, but even on cars.com the 6cyl option is only available with the bells and whistles.

CDI engines, especially newer ones that run high amounts of boost, typically have a lot lower compression ratios compared to older IDI engines, e.g. 17:1 compared to 21:1.

So when they're not on boost, they have to use something like 4 to 10 carefully controlled injection pulses in one firing stroke to generate roughly the same torque output as a similarly sized IDI engine. But since a lot of manufacturers are moving to smaller diesel engines for their trucks/commercial vehicles, they usually feel gutless until they're on boost.

One exception I can think of is the VW Amarok 2.0L TDI; in spite of being a fairly large, heavy vehicle, the little 2.0L seemed to move it around just fine, at least when it was unloaded.

Stuff like the 2.5L 4D56T CRDI in Tritons or the YD25 in Navaras are good examples of engines that are pretty awful in the low RPMs.

Everyone on Veeky Forums shits on gm but every mechanic I've ever talked to likes gm because they're easy to work on and they're reliable. Ford is hated across the board and Chrysler is just okay. I honestly think the only reason people don't like gm here is that they fell for the gtr vs Corvette shilling and that they actually don't work on cars.

A buddy of mine has an s10 and his neutral safety switch failed when he was going 70mph down the freeway, forcing his starter to engage and not shut off. He drove with his starter hitting his flywheel for 30 minutes before shutting it off, when he replaced his starter his flywheel didn't have a scratch on it. Gm definitely has their problems but they are generally really reliable

Yeah GM's can't into ignition switches or switches in general. My Blazer would start up in drive or reverse.

I am a mechanic, and yeah the 4 cylinder shitboxes are easy to work on to a certain degree, but there's plenty of other bullshit GM does that is inexcusable, like concentric clutch slave cylinders in their rwd gearboxes having inaccessible bleed nipples, the pain of doing the heads on a '98 Suburban 5.7L (pic related), or their godawful Alloytec V6 timing chains.

A lot of the opel/daewoo shit that gets rebranded as GM is hardly what I'd call reliable, too; the amount of shit that goes wrong on Astras, Cruzes, and Barinas is laughably bad. I'd rather own an Alfa Romeo than a yurop GM product.

At least Ford's partnership with Mazda has given them some solid platforms that aren't too terrible to work on; most of the bullshit tends to be timing belt related, but there's a lot of manufacturers who couldn't engineer an easily serviceable timing belt if their life depended on it.

Thus why the PS 6.0 is shit in ford trucks.

I own a 2006 Tacoma Access Cab 2WD. I've always driven 4 cylinder Toyota pickups. The 4 bangers have always been solid and the 2TR-FE has been a great engine so far (approaching 140k). The V6 reliability has historically been spotty so I guess maybe it's just superstition at this point.

Now that Tacomas no longer come in a single cab, there really doesn't seem much of a point to keep the I4 unless going diesel like the Hilux. Any gas mileage savings you get from the I4 is now negated by the added weight from the cabin and safety features.

One thing you have to look out for on the 2.7L is the coolant pipe on the left of the block. Although most of them have probably been replaced by now, they came from the factory with a plastic pipe that would often crack and leak. All the replacement pipes are made of metal, worth checking if yours has been replaced or not.

Also should note that the 1KD-FTV injectors have a high chance of shitting the bed before 150k kms, resulting in poor fuel economy, diluted engine oil, and/or pitting in the piston crowns (which eventually leads to cracked pistons).

A full set of injectors plus the labor to fit them can run upwards of 2-3 grand, and even if you do it yourself you still need a workshop scan tool to code in the new injectors.

Toyota fucked up badly on this engine but no one really seems to talk about it.

Thanks man, I'll definitely need to luck into that. I haven't replaced it yet but I'll put in on my list to do.

I've thought about swapping a 1KD-FTV into it for the fun of it but it's kind of pointless for a 2WD truck and it's stupid expensive to do from the reading I've done on it.

You get a little more power and a lot more torque from the 1KD, but you'd never offset the price of the conversion (or the increased cost of maintenance) from any fuel economy you've gained.

Hell, you'd probably have an easier time slapping an SC or turbo on the 2.7.

There are direct bold on turbo kits for the 2TR-FE for less than 3k from OzBoost and URD makes a SC kit for 5k. Alot more realistic than attempting a diesel swap

The current production 3.5 V6s drop valves often enough they are officially the least reliable midsized truck you can buy.

I'd buy a 4 cylinder if I was taking home a new Toyota.