/sqt/ - Stupid Questions Thread

Post questions that don't deserve their own thread here.
I'll start.
I have around $10,000 USD to blow on a MK3 Supra 89 with a 7m-GE engine. The car itself will cost me between $2600-$3200. Planning on swapping in a 1JZ-GTE coupled with a R154 gearbox whilst also completely changing the interior and polishing the outside if needed.
Any suggestions for things to change with the car? I won't be using the car for racing or drifting or anything like that. I just wanted a good looking sports car with a reliable interior.

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=Z-zzmU_Adyw&
howacarworks.com/
twitter.com/AnonBabble

I think my differential ate shit yesterday, it started making a awful grinding noise, then clunking noise joined the game, then it started snagging and would barely even go forward. So I thought a tooth broke or something, but the weird thing is that it goes fine in reverse. No problem, no noise at all. Is that normal or weird? Could it be something other than the differential? And the car is an s2000. I figure it was the diff because the noise comes directly from the center/rear part of the car, can't be one of the wheels or transmission.

I dont know shit about cars, but i have to wire up a car radio to a bench power supply.

I've connected the constant 12v, switched 12v, and GND to my bench power supply; it draws about 10mA. The fan does not spin and it does not turn on when i press the power button.

It's a ZENEC NC-2010 for a VW, and a friend gave it to me because it seems to have software issues.

Should i buy an 87 sentra sport coupe with a spare engine, 3 sets of wheel (1 is the orig alloys) and a spare man trans for 1300 Veeky Forums?

The constant may need to be throttled down to 5v.

Hmmm, might i have fried it already?

Go with a CD09, not an r154. Other than that, they cruise pretty good as it. If your car has TEMS, you're probably better off deleting it and getting some good coils.

Sounds like it. Is it the factory radio? What year vw?

Are you sure you are applying power to the correct wires?

I start as an apprentice at a VW dealership soon. What should I know about working on krautwagons? I'm a level 3 apprentice in Ontario but have never done much more than oil changes and light bulbs on German cars.

What else could be leaking here by the intake manifold besides the valve cover gasket?

>shitty picture

I'm probably going to buy a Saab 9-3 in the near future, either a second gen like pic related or a first gen. Anything I should know about searching for and buying one?

What am I in for, buying a 3rd gen Celica?
Will this be sitting on jack stands in my garage 94.7% of the time, or will this thing actually run, as long as I take care of it (and not hoon it too hard, all of the time).

If you want a car that is good looking and a sports car, why would spend anything on a Toyota? It's but ugly and was never really a sports car. It was a car for young girls to drive in the 80s and they are junk today. There are so many better choices

Why don’t cars use wet clutches like motorcycles? Being able to ride the clutch would seriously help smooth out low-speed driving and would make Hill starts easier.

I manage 2 repair shops and even I have trouble finding parts for these. Fun cars to drive and extremely cheap, but parts will fuck you just because of rarity.

use the catalog, brainlet

Are you literally me user?

Ive got a 01 cobra that lve already dumped 5k in.
Now its giving me shit.

Do l convert it back to non racecar parts and sell it. Or do I garage it and just go deep into making it only a racecar.
I bought it dirt cheap. 4k at 55k miles. And l can afford to keep it.

But... Do l get out of the hole or cut my losses? I havent even modified the motor yet.

Like the OP, I have $10k to spend on a car, and I'm looking at LS1 F-bodies.

Is it stupid to spend an additional 10-15k over time to build it up? I'm trying to get ~500HP but have rock-solid reliability. This way I don't have to deal with stupid car payments or expensive insurance policies, but also be able to keep up with modern sports cars.

the only thing you need to know about volkswagen is that they have been absolute shite since the early nineties.

Yes

No, ~09 i think

Weird and stupid question, my car throws a too lean code once a week but disappears on it's own after 2-3 drives. I've noticed that it comes up whenever I'm heading to work, when its far colder in the morning, and usually disappears when its warmed up in the afternoon.

Could it be possible that since the air is denser from the cold it throws a lean? Very stupid I know, but it only comes up during the coldest part of the day.

*The MAF was cleaned, which did not fix it, so I bought a brand new one from Toyota.

i dont know anything about cars lads. around 1:11, what does that guy do?
youtube.com/watch?v=Z-zzmU_Adyw&

It all depends on the previous owners really

ja ja libbe, jag ser dig

...

my dad is going to buy a Peugeot 107 (2012) with 59,000 miles on it for £4000, is this a bad deal?

I feel like he is getting absolutely swindled here.

It could be the connections on your intake are shrinking enough to cause a vacuum leak.

This I had a friend blow an engine in one, he had the thing parted out in a month, down to the frame.

My guess would be transmission not diff. Drain the fluid and see if you have metal shavings in either.

Pull your spark plug boots if you haven't. If they are covered in oil. Probably spark plug seals and valve cover gasket. Seems to fail for me at 70-75k.

I have an '03 Mazda Protege5 with 250k. It's slow to start in cold weather, which is probably due to the ancient Chinese battery I bought it with.

More importantly, on mornings under 25F, the ignition chime starts beeping uncontrollably, the gauges either flicker along with the beeping or don't work at all, and the dome light blinks along with the beeping. It stops once the car is warmed up and I've restarted the engine 1-3 times, but I'm at a loss as to what it could be. The car runs fine but the gauges are fucked when it happens.

Please respond.

thats a bit high, similar cars on autotrader go for about 3500-4000, and autotrader tends to be overpriced. 107 is a cuck tier car though, get something better

its mainly also for my sister who's learning to drive.

I have a litre bike I use for commuting/fun anyways.

im in SoCal, how much should i pay for a mechanically sound 240? what years should i ideally aim for? just want a nice daily and occasional canyon carver.

pic related is most ads

what's the last year you could buy a car before all the goofy tech stuff started coming in, like the mandatory backup camera, infotainment system, etc. I drive a 2008 car now and it doesn't have any of that stuff, and I dread the day it breaks down and I'll have to get some new car that beeps at me when I try to back into the garage

They have annoying fucking electric issues that tend to be benign but will drive you insane.
>electric door locks will work sometimes, other times they won’t
>service soon!!! Light every once in a while
Etc

Awesome cars though. I’ve got a 2007 2.0T and it’s surprisingly sporty for a sedan

>Mark 3 was a car for young girls to drive in the 80's and never a sports car

it was marketed as a sports car and at the time could go stupid fast with a without mods. It was a sports car

>It's ugly

that's an awful opinion. It's the best looking supra with the Supra celica Mrk. II's being close behind.

Why has nobody invented radiator bypass for quicker warmup in winters?

Do I have to remove my engine to replace the engine wiring harness for a FC?

...

your budget is a little low, i payed 2500 for my shell and did r154 + 1jzvvti into my 280z. With coilovers brakes and a few other odds and ends it ended up around 14k. This is not including wheels and tires or lsd rear end and i did all the work my self

The Mk3 with the 7mgteu was the fastest Japanese car you could buy at the time of its release. I highly doubt this was an attempt to market to teenage girls.

Quick question

Can I splice an aftermarket accessory into a keyed wire behind the dash without causing any problems.

Example: Aftermarket power windows/doors splice into the positive wire of my 12v plug.

Have a 17 Ecoboost Mustang and looking to add some bolt ons but dont know what ones to go with 1st, was thinking of getting the Ford power pack then going intercooler & charge pipes then downpipe. What would be the most noticable improvement in power? Power pack?

Got a co-worker with a 72 MGB in his yard. It's been sitting since 94, and he's willing to let it go and tow it to me for 400 bucks. I already know going in that this is going to be a project, but the engine isn't seized. Think I should go for it?

Looks like one of my rims has been repaired, how bad is this?

The rest of them are ok..

...

Looking to get a jap car for my first project, should I get an Integra or a Lexus SC300?

What amount is suitable for a 20 yo to spend on their first car? my parents are willing to foot 50%, up to 5k, so i'm feeling pressured to buy something nice like a mid 2000s e90 which I really like idea of

Is this a purchase i'm going to regret? repair costs aren't a consideration because of relatives

some shitty looking weld but if it holds air it's fine. if you hit a pothole large enough it most likely will crack there a again

>$2600 for a 7MGE mk3
I paid $2200 for mine. No reason to go that high
>1JZ-GTE with R154
Get a CD009 instead of an R154. They're better in literally every way and the mk3 is geared too low as-is

Any tips on negotiating that price down? The guy is selling the car in OP pic for $3500.

So your relatives are going to buy you parts as well? Are they also going to pay your expensive as fuck insurance for you? Buy something practical faggot

yes
sorry your parents aren't boomers

sc300s are pretty cool but integras probably have more aftermarket and support

My cars been idling pretty high in park and neutral lately. It's been pretty hot lately so I'm wonder if it's that.

Usually it would idle around 800-1100 but it seems to be idling at about 1600 - 1800. What's going on? I'm wondering if it's the AC compressor putting an extra load on it, maybe in combination with the auxiliary fan?

go for it then, why are you asking Veeky Forums what to do with daddy's money?

Are you supposed to shift to neutral and de-clutch before rev matching on a downshift?

Or can you just rev match while the clutch is pushed in and downshift before re-engaging?

After 21 years of living, I'm finally having a need for a car. What are good resources for general knowledge about cars? Is lurking here gonna get me anywhere if I don't have any basic knowledge beforehand?

howacarworks.com/
is a pretty good guide for an overview of cars and driving.

If you have a wet manifold, then possible intake manifold gasket. Put some dye in your coolant.

Maybe should've mentioned I study mech. engineering, lmao.

Anyway, it seems like it has a lotta stuff I don't know so thanks, bucko!

Only on an unsynchronized transmission. You can double clutch if you want, and it might make the shifter slightly easier to push into gear, but it isn't really necessary for most transmissions. The best way to find out is to try it. Worst case you grind a gear and learn from your mistake with zero lasting consequences.

I've been looking at some trucks in my local facebook marketplace and see this and another 99 chevy silverado for 2.5k, they both have around 248k miles on them, is it worth buying and what could be the worst thing that could happen? I know very little about auto