Gas mileage

i dunno, run thinner oil if your engine can handle it

... thank you... i must replenish now... fluids... low... tight testiculars... thank you

What's your commute like? Lots of red lights? Highway means 55+ uninterrupted for long stretches. Also if you go 80 mph your mileage is going to be shit.

Throw out anything out of the car that you don't need, drive like a grandma, low revs and short shifting everywhere, try to do as little city driving as possible, if you're on the highway, drive at 90 km/h

Make sure your tires are properly inflated

Over-pressurize your tires to the limit for minimal contact patch, make sure you're tailgating as much as possible, never open your windows (and prefeably rip out the AC since its heavy as shit) and NEVER go faster than 55mph. Don't brake/ engine-brake downhill, you're wasting momentum into heat.

If you wanna go further, then rip out your interior and cut your springs (Don't you fukken dare to waste proper lowering gizmos on a solar) since lower car means less drag.

thanks for the advice, I'll stick with the seafoam cause of the rarity of the powerfoam. My local auto parts store sells seafoam in both spray and gas-tank versions, is either one better than the other?

there is no difference in the product itself, just how you use it. The spray has to be used through the intake. It has the benefit of cleaning the throttle body as you spray it but the gas tank version will work for you.

>without niggering my car by taking its seats out?
Leaves seats in, remove unnecessary crap.

Like what? I don't carry anything in it but a bug out bag, spare tire, and car paperwork.

i think he's calling you a fatass.

but I'm Veeky Forums as fuck

anyways thanks for the help everybody, I'll take notes on what the various anons have said and hopefully save some gas money in the future!

You dont have a local chrysler dealer? Seafoam is a liquid in a bottle, mopar CCC is a foaming cleaner in an aerosol can. They have similar applications, but they're not the same.

amsoil powerfoam has very similar results to mopar CCC, but its harder to find due to membership sales and what not.

Change the PCV valve. I did this and changed the plugs in my car and it got a .5L/100km boost

Change your oils and filters and stop driving like a maniac

t. 50mph

Tbh it was probably sparkplugs in that case

Lrn2drive if you want to jew on mpgs look up hypermiling

>Tbh it was probably sparkplugs in that case

probably, but other people mentioned those. The PCV can affect the fuel mileage because the ECU factors the venting into its air fuel mix, if its clogged then your engine may run too rich.

eat 1 meal and day and take an enema before driving

Remove interior and tape seems also post more asians

Hot air intake, remove power steering, cover up the rear wheels for less air going in them.

French user?

You got more sexy pics op... what can i google to get pics of chinkies that look and dress exactly like your first pic...

...

>I'm getting 20HWY or less
You are running on winter fuel formulation right now. It is different from the summer fuel formula. The winter formula has lower MPG.

Drive more economically.

Hotter thermostat if it's available.

>How to get better gas mileage out of my shitbox?
Avoid sudden acceleration situations (jamming down the accelerator pedal) by thinking about how the traffic patterns will play out ahead of you. By doing that, you can sometimes avoid the necessity of sudden acceleration.

Don't follow cars that have bad drivers. You've seen these cars that do inefficient driving. It can be tourists or someone who doesn't know where they are going. Maybe they are on drugs or drunk. But they cause other cars in their lane to also drive poorly as they slow down or speed up for no good reasons at all. But if you get stuck in their lane, you'll end up repeating their pattern of driving just to avoid annoying drivers behind you.

Drive like a grandma, keep a large distance ahead of you. Coast as much as possible before using the brakes.

My meme machine is supposed to get 19city 25hwy but I average 29mpg.

Got used to conserve momentum and coast uphill, start coasting miles before most traffic lkghts
45mpg
Brakes in mint condition after 4 years

does it actually use less gas to coast in neutral vs putting it in gear? I have done some test gas tanks where i used engine braking vs coasting in neutral, and it was unnoticeable in mileage for my car.

If you dont push the throttle there is no difference, we put gears while coasting only to cap the speed

those girls are lovely i would definitely touch those

Coasting in neutral means the engine is stationary, which uses fuel to prevent stalling
Coasting in gear uses no fuel but forward motion to prevent stalling

Fuel isn't cut completely on decel in most cars.

>but I'm Veeky Forums as fuck
>not being auschwitz mode

yeah what about what he said get it tuned

>Coasting in gear uses no fuel but forward motion to prevent stalling
I can feel that switchover in my Malibu when coasting downhill. It takes awhile before the computer decides to cut the fuel though. During the first part of coasting, for quite a few seconds, it is still using fuel but maybe about 1/4 rate after I take the foot off the pedal. The hill is all the same slope so I don't think its due to some angular force sensor. But as the car picks up speed, I can feel the fuel cut off and the car very very slightly has a momentary decel as the engine load is placed upon the transmission which is now turning the engine without fuel use. I cannot feel any change when I start to apply fuel again though. It's only the very slightest feeling of engine braking as the transmission applies whatever amount of force it determines is appropriate to keep the engine turning while awaiting application of fuel.

I find all of this decision-making by the car to be a bit amazing. Certainly no Model-T makes any decisions. Cars now are rolling computers all of them equipped with GPS and some of them phoning home to the manufacturer operational canbus obd2 and gps data.

>what else should I be thinking of
1. Proper air pressure in tires. Don't let them run low.

2. Don't run the car on the rough pavement full of bumps and wiggly asphalt. If there are two lanes and one lane is smooth, drive on the smooth lane.

3. Don't accelerate going downhill. Let gravity make your go faster over time especially if the bottom of the hill has a stop sign or traffic light that is going to make you waste all the energy anyways.

Welcome soy in your diet = lose weight = better Mpgee

Lol, I sit at 3k rpms on the highway in mine (it's inching closer to 250k miles each day) and I get 27-32 mpg out of it (depends on tailwind or headwind) Mine is also the standard trans instead of the autotragic trans

Lol, I sit at 3k rpms on the highway in mine (it's inching closer to 250k miles each day) and I get 27-32 mpg out of it (depends on tailwind or headwind) Mine is also the standard trans instead of the autotragic trans

Start with the basics.
>plugs
>air filter
>fuel filter
>pcv

>accelerate slowly, like annoyingly slowly.
Don't do this, accelerate to the speed limit at a moderate pace, your car gets it's best fuel economy in it's highest gear. The quicker you get there and the longer you stay there the better.

>car rated at 24/35/28
>got 34.8mpg over the year
>original brake pads lasted 145k miles/6 years

Really just depends on the situation, if it's a slight downhill your better off coasting in neutral instead of scrubbing speed with engine braking. Obviously if it's a larger hill leave it in gear.