/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Ban evading? ding dong bannu

daylight pics of my 144
imgur.com/a/8WjqF

So where do yall get paint work done at if maaco is considered a sinful place? Im considering maybe just buying auto paint, and a paint gun

The father of another technician I work with is a 20+ year paint and body man. I'm having him do my Bronco if/when I do it. He quoted me like $3500 for strip, body fill, block sand, and paint which is suuuper cheap. I've seen his work, it's high quality. He's really the only person I'll trust.

What you probably want to do is go on google and search for body shops attached to luxury car dealers, and read reviews on them. These body shops typically take any car.

My dudes, are stick welders complete shit?

For thin body metal, sure. If you're good with them, they're good for thicker stuff.

>people on cl want full price for their used welders.

I'm working on this '67 GTO, everything is original, except for when I did an engine rebuild I replaced a couple parts there. But the paint is a bit old and weathered. It was originally this kind of candy blue, which I am not too sure I am fond of, I am thinking of getting it in regimental red. Opinions? This is the ram air special edition.

>people on CL want too much money for what they have
What else is new?

That's a rare car mate , got pics?

If you are keeping the car for a long time paint it the colour you like, but if you are planning on selling I'd go with the original colour to keep up the value

Pls help

So driving the dart around, ran into a few issues.

1: low fuel pressure?
>was stuttering at idle, eventually would die. Ran fine when driving.
Noticed the fuel level in the filter was low.

2: sloppy shifting
>popping/falling out of 2nd almost every time.
Should i tighten something or something else going out?

2.5: if the trans is going, where do i get a drive shaft shortened if i were to swap in a 4spd.

3: why will no body shop touch a car over 10 years old around here?!

Eagles won NFC so naturally our neighborhood had to shoot off fireworks in the middle of the fucking night.

>1: low fuel pressure?
>>was stuttering at idle, eventually would die. Ran fine when driving.
>Noticed the fuel level in the filter was low.
Do you have electronic ignition?

>2: sloppy shifting
>popping/falling out of 2nd almost every time.
Should i tighten something or something else going out?

Mate, this is the world of column shift automatics. Get used to it.

popping out of gears is usually a synchro issue, or in other words a rebuild is in your near future.

>where do i get a drive shaft shortened
Probably a machine shop

>3: why will no body shop touch a car over 10 years old around here?!

I've told you before, these kids are learning how to solve problems using a computer and OBD, that's how they're trained. You need to learn how to maintain your own vehicle.

Bump

About 3 - find a Facebook group or forum about your car, there will be plenty of people who can help.

Alright, i cant find too much info on it, but it seems that the a903 and a833 are the same size, so to swap them, all ill need is a new bell housing. I hope so, cause its popping out of 2nd even worse this morning.

Why not diy?
rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

Because it will look like shit

That looks pretty good, but i think ill keep it to a paint gun and higher quality paint. I went the cheapo method once...

Here's my suggestion as a painter:

>take off all the trim, masking it off is never worth the time as the paint peels
>grind or sand down any spots that might have any small amount of rust to bare metal but keep any existing paint on clean areas and sand over top, if it's adhering good and there is no rust underneath, keep that paint, don't strip the entire car if you're on a budget
>paint any bare metal with a rust proof paint immediately after
>hang the doors, you'll never get a good finish on the jambs otherwise
>primer it, don't let it outside or drive it while it's in primer
>pay a refutable shop (not Maaco) to do the final spray, have them do it as a side project when they have extra time
>if you want a more affordable job that will turn out well with less precision and hide defects, choose a single stage enamel, not a base/clear
>bonus if you can still find anyone to spray aircraft oil base paints
>pay them to put the doors back on
>do a final adjustment on the hood and trunk lid with them so you don't chip the paint
>wait 6 months, then do a final polish and wax

This will cost roughly $900 in supplies, $1500 in shop time and take around 100 hours to complete. It will look nice enough to be a show car, but not so nice you're afraid to drive it.

Pretty excited to hopefully be geting my 1973 Luxury Lemans on the road in the next few weeks! My new starter and brake kits should be arriving here later today. And I've got my Uncle giving me a crash course in welding in patch panels here in the next few days. Any of you know if there's anyone that even makes an attempt to fuck with aftermarket parts for these?

What do you mean by aftermarket? Year one and summet have great parts for classics typically.

If you want, I can see how much buddy's dad will do your car for. That is if you're willing to drive it to Grand Prairie, TX.

If you're interested, send me some detailed pictures.

It's shipped 442 user

I appreciate the offer, but unless hes willing to do it for like $100 bucks, thats an 11 hour drive for me. Granted the inlaws live there, so id have an excuse for the road trip.

I searched around the ol interwebs and i found a mopar club in my area, and a member owns a transmission shop thats actually in town and he specializes in the old mopars (clubs go to mechanic). I stopped by during lunch and saw a few of his projects (left phone in car, so no pics sadly). Coolest one was mid 60s charger with a blown 440 in set up for the drag strip. He said he'd take a look at my trans for free and let me know whats fucked.

How much do you think it’ll cost for a body shop to weld in a new quarter w/o painting?

Congrats user your car has some of the hardest Lemans/GTO parts to track down. Take care of your trunk lid because you will probably never find another unless its off a donor car from that year. The hoods should be interchangeable with the grand am and other pontiac A Frames up to 1977.
user take a moment to look at their sites and see what their cutoff year in their catalog is for Lemans/GTOs. 1973 had a complete body change from the prior year and had another the very next with the ass ends of them and the GTO option being moved to the Ventura. Go try finding a 1973 Ram Air user, I'll wait..

More than it’d cost for you to buy a welder

Big panels like quarters take a long time. Expect a reasonable shop to quote at least $600 in labor for 10-12 hours. That's not including any fill / paint work or the panel itself.

When a vehicle is that rusty, it's usually best just to keep running it until it dies unless it's something special.

>Pontiac Ram air
>1973
user please

How's it feel to be retarded?

>Sadly, if readers were to visit their local Pontiac dealer immediately after reading that CARS Magazine article, they would discover that the SD-455 had been
cancelled for the GTO, the Ram Air setup was not available as a production option, and the M-20 manual transmission would only be available on the 400 cubic inch GTO and Grand Am.
>Maybe 10 prototypes ram air setups were sold over counter at dealerships.

>musclecarfilms.com/Pontiac_Ram_Air_3.html

And? You're only proving my point that 1973 Pontiac aftermarket stuff is rare. There's a guy that races up in Springfield, MO that rocks one on his 1973 Grand Am.

>Prototypes made for all Pontiac cars
>This proves my point that parts for "73s" are rare
Moving goalposts now

You best bet would be to find a junkyard example and cut it's fender to match what you need. Basically you need a source car.
Fabricating fenders is a bitch.

>Fabricating fenders is a bitch.
Yes it is.

Do you mean SD455? If so then that would be one of the rarest Pontiacs, a 74 luxury lemans is not that rare of a car. I didnt check the website but ill trust you that they dont have much for them because they are not that popular with boomers.
>1973 Pontiac aftermarket stuff is rare
depends on the car, we got the stuff for this restoration without too much difficulty except for the factory carburetor, that cost a shit ton.

oh lord

>not keeping the cuts square
rip in peace

>Made it to the sales counter but since it tanked in sales it's now a prototype.
Seems like you're the one moving goalposts. All I was getting at was that some of the parts for it like the fucking trunk lid is non existent so if they lose it, that's it they won't find another without a donor car or pay the same amount as it would cost them to buy one off ebay

Started tearing into a single rust hole caused by a drain plug on the back fender well of my 1990 300CE tonight.

The obsessive part of my brain that cannot help but pick at things has unearthed 3 more additional holes...One of them somewhat structural. Started with a small bit of flaking the size of a quarter, but underneath the undercoating I found several orange-sized holes that have been growing out of sight for a long time. I'm still going to try and fix it, but it's like a shot in the heart.

I've fought rust related issues the entire time I've had this car. From the shock poking through the trunk, due to failure of the unibody mount, to unsightly body rust on the outside, and now the Swiss cheesing of my inner fender well.

I may be at that point where it's time to cut my losses and move on. Maybe. It's pretty bad and isn't even all of the rust. I have fiberglass cloth and the best anti-rust paint on the planet, but I can only do so much against 30 years of POs ignoring a hidden problem.

All I can say is, check your cars more closely for rust before buying and especially before becoming emotionally attached.

The more I dig into it, the more I think it would be far more worth my time to go out to California and pick up an identical vehicle with half the amount of mileage and no rust. Or pick up a well-loved R129. Oh well. For now, we push on. I don't know what the final straw is, but someone just reached in and grabbed a big handful of 'em.

Advice? Doing fiberglass cloth and miracle paint to patch the holes. This is only one side. I bet the other side is worse...But I guess this isn't the thread to come to if I just wanted to hear "get rid of it and get something nicer/newer", I figure you guys are in the business of fixing cars, not disposing of them, I just want to hear what I really want to do reaffirmed. I figure the 300CE is kind of rare these days. Honestly want a wagon the most, 320E wagon with a pre-facelift face swap would be ideal.

your solutions are temporary at best. since steel and fiberglass WILL work, just not for very long. Buy a cheap mig welder and a bottle of gas. Even the good brand names like lincoln or miller have entry level migs around $300. The bottle of gas can range from $50 to $300(most common small time sizes). I bought a 125cf tank of 75/25 argon/co2 tank for $250.

Those holes of yours look pretty easy to fix with a hammer and dolly to shape the metal and then weld in place.

Don't waste your money on a harbor freight welder.

What if I don't drive in salt or rain? This is not on my daily. I'm just trying to see how long it would last. I've heard plenty of great things about POR15/Miracle Paint and fiberglass cloth and that it can hold up for quite a while. What you see in the picture is bendable metal that has SOME structure still left, all the flakyness is pretty much gone.

You can repair it with metal without using a welder, you can rivet a piece of metal in after cleaning it and painting with por15 and then some tar..

I can't really give you a time frame on how long it would last, only that the expansion and contraction rates of steel and fiberglass are alot different, so the bond will eventually fail and you'll be back at square one. if you plan on getting rid of the car anyway I'd say go for it. If you're attached to the car and want to keep it for the foreseeable future then I'd suggest going the welding route.

Guy offered me 10k for the supercharged 79 camaro. Could use the money but fuck it's my baby

It is ironic when you don't need to sell it some guy randomly offers to buy it at some high premium.

When you do need to sell it, you will be getting lowball shit offers only

It's a fellow marine, a guy I'm in the field with right now. Saw the picture of the car and my wife that I keep inside my kevlar and we got to talking. He doesn't know Jack about cars at all though I told him it's not the best fit specially since it's supercharged and requires regular upkeep of the carb and dizzy adjustments but he really wants a classic veeyate. I'm a higher rank than him though and since I've had the coolant in the oil problem before i would look super bad if I sold it to him and it gernaded on him. Like a douchebag preying on junior marines who trust their NCOs.

This thread makes me fear what rust is in the dart. I know there is some around the rear wheels under a bad bondo job, and some in the window drain rails... WHERE ELSE IS THE CANCER?! The camaro was rust free.... it was 70% fiberglass... it was nice...

Hey man, ive got a shit bag chief who i wouldnt trust him with anything. Just give him fair warning that its a project, cant say you didnt warn him.

You didn't even read the article, it got cut because of emissions.

Eh. If it doesn't structurally compromise the car and you aren't trying to make it a show car then rust is largely irrelevant. Just cover it up and have fun because nobody really notices shit like that on driver quality cars anyway.

Just found penetrating rust on the strut towers.
Is this fixable or should I just off myself now?

What kinda welder would be good for body panels / sheet metal?

Is welding in new quarters a feasible task for a complete beginner?
I really want this project to be a success but I can’t be dumping my life savings into it

If you can't weld, or don't have a lot of money then you should off yourself.

Practice welding on whatever gauge the panel your welding in is. Make sure you have all the gear you need before starting the job. Don't bother trying with gasless or stick, make sure you have a good unit that can run a low enough amperage

I can buy donor strut towers and quarters for next to nothing. And if learning to weld is the difference between a $500 expense for welding equipment or a $5000 body shop bill, guess I oughta start learning

Well if it's possible to get a donor then definitely do it. Make sure you do a good job cleaning it up and priming it so it doesn't look like it was cut out and then welded back in

> A front left hand door for a Holden HQ is the second hardest thing in the world to find
At this point I'm going to see if a panelbeater is willing to lop the channels off one door and weld channels from another door on because that's the cheapest thing I can think of

I really want to get a 68 to 75 sporty cpupe. What are some good options? I really have been trying to find a 71 maverick with the 302 in it but it's damn near impossible.

Thank you for this. I needed this. Not him but I'm the guy with the swiss cheese 300CE. It will LIIIIIVE.

Watching Eric the car guys videos has really made me want a Fairmont sedan

Darts, commets, 70-72 mustangs, torinos, anything "fast back". If you want full size, there are so many options. Otherwise, mavericks and darts are pretty much it as far as mainstream ones go.

Split bumper camaro. Pure fuckin sex

Forgot about those. But any 2nd gen camaro/trans am are cool.

I think I'm just gonna keep the car fuck it I can always make more money. I think My plugs fouling is all due to the Quadrapuke being toasted and not blowby anyways so as of now there's nothing wrong with it. Took me a year of field ops and deployment to save up to get her to where she is so fuck selling!

I'm actually not a huge of the camaro myself despite owning one. I only like mine because it's the got front lip kit and rear spoiler. If it wasn't for that o wouldn't like it. Split bumpers and the trans am though are fucking cool. Now that I'm getting the 6 inch cowl hood I'm probably gonna get the rear lip too and maybe some louvers and make it look hella fuckin mean. As much blasphemy as this is I saw i a wide body fender kitted 78 camaro the other day and it looked fucking dope. Like a full size sting ray

It looked kinda like this but it was all white with no decals

I dont want anyone else to say im the most ricer on /ccg/ anymore after you posted this lol. Yellow headlights do look kinda cool though. Have you decided on paint?

I hope to God that wasn't real

Well I mean it wasn't all fuckin decaled and meme lighted out just wide fenders.

I'm probably gonna keep it black since it would probably be cheapest

Gloss or matte?

I like gloss I'm kinda tired of le matte black may may

Oh dude you ain't seen shit
youtu.be/fvt20-HLZrw

For someone whose never done it before, how hard would it be to get a shortblock and assemble the top end and get it running? Should I just find something complete already?

Engines are the easiest part of the car and it doesn't take long to learn how to build one. BUT if you dont want to invest the time or effort just get an already built smallblock.

I say this but I have no idea the context of the question. Do you want to commit heresy and put an LS in a classic or are you trying to get an original engine?

C O R V A I R
O
R
V
A
I
R

Where are you looking for the mav? I find them all the time on CL and a 302 block can be found.

Still waiting on the parts to finish rebuilding the starter for the Packard; apparently, there's not a lot of demand for components for a 6V I8 positive ground starter that hasn't been used in a car since 1954.

Everyone keeps telling me to just drop in a complete LS and be done with it. I don't want that. I want an oldschool build. I even want a qjet. Honestly I want to make a 305 with at least 300hp just to shut people up.

One of my favourite. How much could be worth today ??

Kek good luck with the 5.Slow

I don't understand the attitude everyone has against the 305. Sure they came slow stock, but so did some 350s. Considering sprint cars have a 305 class I'm sure you can make power with them. There was an episode of Engine Masters where they put NOS on a 305 and sure it blew up, but without the NOS they made 350hp. 600 with the juice. Just a matter of bang for buck.

Cuz I personally owned one and for the money you spend making one to 300hp and absolutlely maxxing out that engine you could just get a more powerful LS and still have room to improve later. A 305 destroker would be cool but nah

Only good 305 is a Big block.

>Everyone keeps telling me to just drop in a complete LS
Dont keep old school, old school. It would be like trying to make a old milsurp bolt action preform better to compete with newer bolt actions. You can get it shooting a little better after you replace half the parts but you dont have the feel of the old bolt action and the newer rifles will still preform better.
Thats my problem with the whole muscle vs tuner crowd, your comparing cars meant to do different things and were made decades apart.
>I want an oldschool build
Good for you user

Studes are worth absolutely nothing and parts are rare. The national Studebaker club might be willing to help you find one if your looking, they are cool guys.

Got a call from the trans shop. He thinks its the linkages and not a gernaded synchro. So either hes rights and its new bushings/linkages all taken out and cleaned up and redone for $100 or he eats the cost and he looks for something else.

Pdeals have arrived!

jesus

Spoke too soon; got a late package, damn UPS, but I got the parts I need. I should have the starter in tomorrow.

>85k
>roller

dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/d/1972-barracuda-mostly-restored/6471155932.html

I'm only looking for a 71. I'm in LA