QTDDTOT

Questions Thread:
What are some common cars that came supercharged from the factory?
What are some cars that came supercharged and carbed from the factory?

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=LZ1ZnScr45Q
harborfreight.com/material-handling/solid-flat-free-tires.html
ebay.com/itm/FOR-CIVIC-SI-2-0-4CYL-K20Z3-FG2-FD4-FD3-STAINLESS-TRI-Y-EXHAUST-HEADER-DOWNPIPE/172648751085
ebay.com/itm/FIT-CIVIC-SI-2-0-4CYL-K20Z3-FG2-FD4-FD3-STAINLESS-TRI-Y-EXHAUST-HEADER-DOWNPIPE/262925686229
ebay.com/itm/FOR-06-11-CIVIC-SI-K20-STAINLESS-FLEX-EXHAUST-PIPE-MANIFOLD-TRI-Y-1-PIECE-HEADER/281376323588
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Can I ever recover from being called a busrider on Veeky Forums?

Nope. You're done.

I've had some pretty nasty brake squeal for the past several months. It only occurs at a certain pressure range that I put on the pedal, and it's mildly intermittent (happens maybe about 50% of the time in general).

I've already replaced pads all around. Is there any way that the caliper itself could cause a squealing noise? It kind of sounds like how truck or train brakes squeal when they come to a stop.

2012 Mazda 3 if that matters.

Did you you grease the back of the pads and the tabs that slide along the caliper? The sell stuff often called "brake grease" for this purpose to keep the pads from vibrating under use which is what causes that that kind of squeal.

I've used high anti-seize for this before in a pinch and it seems to work as well.

I greased the caliper bolts but didn't think all that other stuff would cause it, but now that I think about it it makes sense. Never had an issue on any of my cars before this one when I've done brakes so I just figured it wouldn't be a problem. Next time I put new pads on I'll have to bear that in mind.

Jah I don't know why sometimes they're quiet and sometimes not. Tolerances I guess. Over time I've turned anal about taking it apart, cleaning it, and greasing any two surfaces that contact each other just because I get pissed off if my nice new brake job sounds like hell and I have to take it apart again.

The mk1 mr2 had a supercharged version from the factory. Some jdm corollas and levins also had a supercharged 4age factory as well

How quick does concentrate mix with water? I did a flush (hose fill with petcock open while idling revving) until it was clear and added 1/2 the total capacity in concentrate topped off with DI.

I went for like a 30 minute drive. Was this enough to mix the coolant? It dropped down to like 31° last night so I'm scared some water may have frozen.

I'm such an autist that I'm mortified at the prospect of driving. I can't picture navigating all the variables without fucking up. Is this a misgiving?

Probably
Autists can be good drivers. Most of Veeky Forums is legitimately autistic, although I don't know how many actually drive.

>Probably
Reeeeeeee

31 degrees? I wouldn't worry at all.

Merc E55 AMG
Merc SLK and early C classes were available with SC'd 4 pots and are pretty common.
Cobalt SS has an SC model.

I like the stock would of my exhaust, but want to slightly increase the volume without becoming a fartmachine.
From what I'm finding and think I know a new muffler would probably do the trick, something like a flowmaster 60 series?

Where can I download the VAG Diagnostics software?

The one they use on their laptops.

I haven't found an OBD app yet that will give me full access to the cars systems - eg I can't disengage the electronic handbrake, only through the VAG software can I do that.

Those were fueled injected not carbureted.

Apologies - didn't properly read the OPs first question.

How much should I offer below asking price for a car on CL?

How reliable is an unopened, stock 2JZ-GE? How much mileage can you expect from one?

Practice with a driving wheel and video games. It's not as hard as you imagine.

Oh god no. Don't tell them to play video games. Next you'll say he should play ero games to learn how to get a gf.

less than 150,000 if you dont think the owner looked after it a little bit.

as in just did oil changes, change plugs and filters.

they are toyota. they are strong as fucked

My friend has an e30 325e that sits in his driveway. He's offered to sell it to me for $100, I want to buy it and swap the engine, because the current one is apparently seized. Just wondering what engines would be good to put into the car. Should i just put in a 325i engine in or? I have some experience swapping engines, mostly on minis.

Depends on a variety of factors theres not x-y= fair price for every car.

If the bottom end isn't fucked you can get heads from a 325i and make a stroker that doesn't tap out at 5k.

Other reasonable option is M50, they fit with very few modifications.

>youtube.com/watch?v=LZ1ZnScr45Q
>not cutting of exhaust and installing a potato
pleb

What's the price range for an m50?

If I go the stroker route, will it take to boost?

I have about a 3k which I could extend to 5k if i needed too. budget right now and just want to make it run at the moment. Everything will be done in house. After that I'm planning on possibly boosting it.

>looking for cheap shit box
>"I won't get anything German because fuck that"
>come across VW Passat
>good condition, cheap, will have to learn manual but oh well
>mfw
Anyone have second opinions of early 2000s Passats?

2007 Ford Focus SE hatchback or 1999 Lincoln Town Car?

Both of these are selling at a local dealership for the same price of a little over 3k.
Kind of have around the same amount of miles on them too (Ford 97k and Lincoln 100k)
Both of them are pretty clean as far as scratches and dents are concerned.

Which one should I buy tomorrow?

Is drifting bad for your car?
Beyond the tire abrasions would it damage the axle or anything like that?

Lincoln parts are way more expensive if (when) you need to replace something get the ford

Well it's going to put more stress on it, but so is driving hard in any fashion. Depending on how much grip and power you're talking about it might be a good way to find out if your differential is sturdy enough to put up with it.

>Lincoln parts are way more expensive
compared to an econobox yes, but they're not expensive

Is there any way to get replacement parts for this? Got it for free because the guy never used it. The reason the guy never used it is because pic related. Apparently when he got it the box was all mangled and fucked up. Went to put it together and was shorted a wheel. I'm not sure really what to look for. When I search for new wheels all I get are caster wheels that bolt on.

Could I just put it up on wood blocks or something? It's only going to be holding a SBC and it isn't going to move around much once it's mounted.

Is disconnecting everything from an engine, hoisting it out, putting it back in, and reconnecting it easy?

Depends wildly on vehicle. Old basic bitch rwd car or pick-up is relatively simple. Newer FWD vehicles can be a bitch.

>I can't type wheels hard enough
harborfreight.com/material-handling/solid-flat-free-tires.html

Probably *the most common* would be those GM 3.8 engines with the Edelbrock
So Buick park avenues, Pontiac Grand Prix, chevy Monte Carlo ss

Get the boat
You'll have a lot more fun than a cramped econobox
If I recall correctly you're gonna have CV boots going on those soon and I'm pretty sure the motor mounts and air con shit the bed on those things right around then

What goes into taking care of a supercharger?
I might be wrong, but they have their own oil level that needs to be checked?
Does a supercharger hook up to the car's existing oil/water lines like a turbocharger?

I'm trying to comprehend a situation in where that weird ass engine setup would be ideal. Maybe a big ass ship or something?

toyota tacoma lol

How do I part with my first car?
I'm so attached to it, but I need a truck for work and I don't have the room or the means to keep both of them.
I've been across six states in it, lost my virginity in the backseat of it, went over 100mph with it, and so many more memories made with it. How did any of you get over this attachment?

what is it?

'94 VW Golf

It finally got to the point where I couldn't legally drive it on the road anymore and couldn't justify the expense of fixing it up just for fun. It was so old junk yards didn't want it.

So I drove it down to the recycling yard and watched the dude with the big construction vehicle impale it and dump it on the scale to find out how much money it was worth. I wanted to watch it get crushed and tossed on a pile as well to see it off, but it would have been too much of a wait. Pretty feely, but I guess watching it go past the point of no return did the trick for closure.

I kept the knob from the gear shift to remember it by.

Might be buying an '85 soon. The left pop-up headlight isn't working. How involved is the process to fix it up? Internet told me that it's likely a stripped plastic gear. Where would I buy one of these gears and what'll it set me back?

Sorry forgot to mention talking about the 3rd gen trans am (I think all the pop up headlights of the same era work the same, like c4 corvette or 4th gen transam)

Have a 2008 altima in silver given to me by my dad. About 100k miles, and has a dent on the trunk door, otherwise in good condition. Would $4.5k asking on CL be reasonable?

Anybody use an OBDII scanner that they'd recommend? Which one and how much did it cost?

Regal gs

Car jumpstarting question;

If I have a car that needs a jumpstart. And a second battery that won't fit in that car for various reasons, but should have enough charge to start the car.


Can I still jump the car using the second battery? Would I rig it up with the jumper leads normally?


Or would it just not work?

It would work. Your best bet is to disconnect the positive lead from the dead batter and clamp on to the lead. Effectively what you're doing here is using the second battery to start the car without the dead battery draining it.

Once the car is running, put the lead back on the post of the dead battery without taking the clamp off. Now the running car is charging both batteries. Keep it above idle for a few minutes to top them both up a bit and then take the clamp off and go for a drive to get the dead one in the car charged up.

How bad of an idea would it be to buy a 2000 Porsche boxter for a daily?
They seem fun but I'd be worried about the maintenance costs, since I don't make a lot of money anyway.

Bad idea. Unless you can wrench, and if you're asking this question you probably can't, it will turn into a money pit which in your case will mean a non-running Boxster under a blue tarp.
If you really want a Boxster, buy some reliable shitbox and THEN buy the Boxster. That way you can have a car in case the Boxster shits out, which it will eventually.
Or you can buy a Miata.

autel/oxgord makes a cheap bare bones model
u can usually get it for $20 or less
obdII dongles paired with torque is also a good investment for about the same price
the professional ones that can read ABS systems are nice as well
but hard to find for less than $100
Horror Fraught has some good ones if you're looking to compare models with different specs/prices

Cheers man. Ended up not being needed, but it's handy to know it could work.

Thank you!

That might work for a little bit, but the wheels on that engine stand are solid cast iron. Your best bet is to measure the stud sticking out and google the dimensions of the wheel for a replacement. You might end up finding a wheel that fits the stud correctly, but is larger in diameter than the other three. So you might end up replacing all three.

Depends on the supercharger, but some have permanently lubed bearings that get replaced when they wear out, and others like a procharger, or a detroit 6-71 blower have oil sumps that need checked and changed every 20k miles or whatever. Some are also cooled by coolant, but mostly not.

your better off removing and putting your secondary charged battery temporarily in its place as you will lose alot of amperage going through the jumper cables. although i would just try jumping it with the jumper cables to the battery first, might conduct enough to start the car anyways.

>permanently lubed
oy vey!

google intermediate shaft bearing failure and you might reconsider.

HELP I was doing some dumb shit, flushing the cooling system of my GM 3100 engine with that dumbass flush n fill kit into the heater core inlet hose, had to take some random dipstick out that was in the back of the engine, I FORGOT TO PUT IT BACK IN and fucking water was spraying all around there and shit. It's most likely the transmission fluid dipstick, right? It's not the oil dipstick. I tried some google fu but cant figure out shit. It's yellow and has a symbol that looks like a sun rising or some shit. I need to know if I need to panic and change transmission fluid.

>It's yellow and has a symbol that looks like a sun rising or some shit.
Remember when literacy meant something and they put like words on things? Those were the days.

It's ridiculous, I literally can't find anything online about it. Best I've managed to come up with is that the 3400 doesn't have a transmission dipstick, and they are basically the same engine? Doesn't give me much to go on...

I once asked a chinaman how how he looked up chinascratch symbols up in a dictionary to find out what they mean since there are like 10,000 of them.

He was dumbfounded at the concept of being able to do that.

How bad are cheap headers? I don't want to spend $400+ on a header for my car because I'm considering turboing it eventually, but I don't know if I should trust a $100 ebay header to not crack in the meantime.

Post the header dude. You didn't get answers last time because there isn't a universal answer to this.

These are just a few, and some use the exact same pictures as others so I'm not sure what to think about that.

ebay.com/itm/FOR-CIVIC-SI-2-0-4CYL-K20Z3-FG2-FD4-FD3-STAINLESS-TRI-Y-EXHAUST-HEADER-DOWNPIPE/172648751085
ebay.com/itm/FIT-CIVIC-SI-2-0-4CYL-K20Z3-FG2-FD4-FD3-STAINLESS-TRI-Y-EXHAUST-HEADER-DOWNPIPE/262925686229
ebay.com/itm/FOR-06-11-CIVIC-SI-K20-STAINLESS-FLEX-EXHAUST-PIPE-MANIFOLD-TRI-Y-1-PIECE-HEADER/281376323588

>not posting images on an imageboard
>thinking I'm going to reply to your normiefag bullshit
Why do you abuse us so?

redpill me on a mazda 3/6 since i can't find a lexus is250/300 anywhere in 3 months of searching

Which Air Spencer freshener smells the best?

How do you make rust on a tin can car slow down or stop for free? i already brush on the motor oil in and outside......

Is the focus manual or auto. if manual then focus every day of the year theyre fun as fuck and timing chain motors.

if auto stay away.

you should test/replace your charge system components. alternator/battery/connections

LOL motor oil is corrosive once its oxidised. thats why we have pcv systems in place or somethin like that or so i hear.

evapo-rust is your next bet short of replacing panels

r53 mini cooper S

Is getting a 2003 E46 318i a good idea? i heard they need a lot of maintenance and the one i'm seeing already has 212000 km on it.

>by metric sockets
>they still fit my SAE ratchet

what?

Metric sockets still come in the same standard ratchet drive sizes (1/4",3/8",1/2" etc)

but.. why?

New or used? I have a '12 3 and my girlfiend has a '16 or '17, can't remember which.

They're nice enough, Mazda IMO has better quality for the price than most, at least first-impression-wise on interior and stuff. Neither her nor I have had any major issues so far, and her family as far as I know hasn't had issues with their Mazdas and that's all they drive. I like that Mazda is one of the few companies that still offers a decent manual selection in their lineup.

The Skyactiv engine definitely won't be winning you any races but they make pretty good gas mileage so it's a great A-B car. While I like my 3 I think the slight extra space of a 6 wouldn't have gone remiss, but then again I'm planning on upping to a small or midsize SUV or truck after I have this paid off so it's all preference I guess.

because drive sizes are standard across the board, whereas hardware sizes aren't.

Idk man, it's one of those things that just is how it is. Would you rather have to buy a whole separate set of ratchets to go with your metric sockets? not something I'd complain about desu

no i'd rather them uniform to metric, because in another 20 years, if even that long, nobody is ever going to know what any fraction of an inch is, and we'll all be on Metric.

sure thing kid

i'm complete newfag to this board and to automobiles in general.
i forgot to release the handbrake and i drove

if the brake still works, no
if it doesn't work, you probably snapped the cable

hi~

how much would you pay for a beat to shit '92 325i?
>still runs
>ATF looks concerning
>needs brakes
>short somewhere
>sunroof is bork
>body rust
>but has original 5 wheels
it would make a good parts car,
is $500 too much?

Hey Veeky Forums, 18 year old senior in high school here, about to buy my first car with the help of my dad who's a mechanic for Toyota. I have the choices between a 2006 Subaru Legacy GT that is turbocharged, or a 2000 Toyota Camry. Subaru is very fucking loud and actually hurts my ears as I have tinnitus, but I love the way it looks. I also like the camry too. Advice? Wanna know what you guys would pick.

Pic related, not specifically the car, but it looks exactly like this. Guy is offering it for $300, Camry for $300 as well. Nothing wrong with either, my dad inspected them.

Pic also related, not specifically the Camry, but looks exactly like this.

>easiest car to maintain
>dad is a yota tech
>possibles of bonding over routine maintenance
>other car hurts
>both cars $300
the other car has probably been beat
buy the camry

If you can recoup most/all of the cost of the vehicle by stripping out parts, totally.

The rims alone are $750 new if they're alloy.

The short might really hurt your ability to move some of those parts, however.

i'm selling not buying
>$750 alloy wheels
so ask $200 for the car and $300 for the wheel set?
it is quite a heap
but it runs and drives

Which engine? The 1.9 liter ones are extremely awesome in terms of robustness. Cracking the 400k kilometer mark without any major repairs on the engine should be no biggie.
This is only my subjective experience, though. Yuropoor, so were I come from, litterally 99% of people drive Audi or VW, havent heard a single complaint about that engine.
Dad has a Passat (should be somewere between 2000 and 2005) and he cracked the 400k mark a year ago without a problem.

I’m new to the oilfield, what truck should I buy?

This is my third fucking car that the automatic transmission is shitting out in. God damn it americans take care of your fucking cars. Is manual worth not dealing with this ever again?

300? get both dumbass