FRS First Car

Is an FRS a good first car to learn how to wrench/mod on? 6MT. I want to add coil overs, sway bar, new big brake kit, wheels, some interior enhancements like new deck, also sound system, and of course, underglow, body kit, headlight taillight assembly.

>is a new car good to learn to wrench on

No.

Buy a 3k civic and learn from there.

It’s not new it’s 5 years old with 40k miles and only costs $10k...

>all that shit
that's more than $10k and many weekends in modding. just throw a turbo on it and some better tires and call it a day.

>and of course, underglow, body kit, headlight taillight assembly
Lol......this isnt Need For Speed dude,all that shit will not be cheap and fucking up your first car with all that shit is retarded.
Focus on coilovers, good tyres, valve springs, cams, decent exhaust system

>not wanting to go full early 2000's ricer

Come on user, after making your slow car slightly less slow that's the next logical step.

>underglow, body kit, headlight taillight assembly.
I hate you and I hope you for before you can ruin that car.
That's out of the way, so the car: it'll be as good for modding and proper wrenching as any modern car can be. The 2013 are out of warranty now (or soon), but the important thing is that the engine bay is cleanly designed, with everything in plain view and no bullshit with 1 component buried beneath 3 others.
Instead of being a faggot and wasting a huge amount of money on making a fairly nice looking car into a riced out shitbox, start with a supercharger. Specifically a supercharger, because the spool time on a turbo ruins the responsiveness, and the short gearbox is engineered for fast, responsive controls as opposed to highest top speed.
New tires are a must, and will be the best improvement in performance aside from the engine upgrade, and you will want some better brakes. The stock brakes are good, but you want better anyway.

Seriously though, don't ruin your car with pretentious bullshit. It deserves better.

>gif related
All that weight in the front and the top
>All that glorious Audisteer from a car that had 50:50 weight distribution.

Lmao I love when people buy shit cars and then proceed to throw on double it's worth in mods for 30% improvement when you could have just bought a stock platform with far more base performance and modding potential. You will always have a "weak-est" link in the car and will burn into your wallet trying to up the performance when you realize so many of the integral parts of the car are econoshit.

Gr8 b8 m8 ir8 8/8 noh8

>tfw someone doesnt like underglow

the engine has no power and aftermarket for the fa20 either requires lots of internal work or a total engine swap to something that isnt shit for making stronk reliable 300rwhp+

The car is $10k, and I don’t care about the cost of mods, it’s not going to be done in one day it’ll take a year to make that money for modding.
The cosmetic stuff will come last obviously, I do want to make it 300-400 whp and reliable for a daily, so supercharger is my favorite option. I already have my eye on a Invidia N1 titanium exhaust.
Please. A supercharger was my idea all along. I literally asked if this was a good first car to learn to wrench on. Wrenching includes cosmetic mods too. It’s my car not yours bucko. I can make it look how I want. I want a Wilwood BBK, and also sport cup 2s, plus a nice set of normal not stance fagged wheels.
You wish br/o/
It should just a learning car, i don’t really mind wasting $25k or $30k. It’s just money. I want something with a big audience and following so I don’t get stuck and I can learn how to do shit.
You’re right but it costs $5k to make a reliable 300whp, little more cash and you can hit 350 which is around the sweet spot for this weight anyways. Clearly you can get crazier with engine swaps, but this isn’t meant to be a 1000 hp Monster. If I wanted that I’d just buy a GTR and Alpha Motorsport it.

I can’t stop loving underglow since FnF Civic hijacking scene and FnF2F2F Skyline leaving garage for first race scene.

For someone asking strangers for advice, you sure are a defensive little cunt. FT86 has been popular with modders since day 1. I wonder why. Fuck off.

No. Buy the cheapest you possibly can. You do not know as much as you think you do. That's why you think a GT86 is reasonable.

gt86 is a good car. fuck u

Its fine. Not for you, nooby. Learn to fix your shit and drive it before getting something good. You don't deserve it.

The fact you misinterpreted what I said just proves my point by the way.

This actually looks very nice

FRS is a great car for learning to race and drive faster but as a new car to wrench on, no.
You want something you can learn from failures and you can dent with your shit driving without feeling bad.
Don't underestimate the 3k civic or the euro equvilent: 3k e36/46 325/330

Have you had a car with coilovers before?
Be careful of cheaper shocks. Friend destroyed his 2013 frs engine mounts since the coilovers were agressively sprung and under dampened.

Other than that, have fun.

I agree but you left info out.
GT86 is extremely reasonable as a first car to get into racing/track days/learning to turn but as a first car to learn to drive in traffic and wrench, no.

Post your car

Why you gotta assume that?

No, it isn't. Wrong again. You will crash. Several times. Don't crash a new car you fucking idiot.

>under damped
You mean over-damped?
Under-damped allows oscillations, over-damped does not, but responds very slow/rigidly, which can mean harsh impacts when used on a suspension.

¡Hola!

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If the shocks aren't up to dampening the springs then something else has to absorb the energy that the springs store up. If that doesn't come from the tires flexing or loosing grip, then that force gets transmitted down the driveline toward the engine, and ultimately the mounts that connect all that to the body.

What you described is exactly what I said about over-damped systems.

Yeah, sure, anything other than critically damped is going to send more energy into the system than otherwise. But I think the point being made was that if you throw stiff spring rates on without adjusting the shocks to suit then that's a common way to have a shit setup that abuses the rest of the system.

The point being made is that I asked about what was being mean't by saying "under-damped". Which is the wrong terminology and description of the system.

Stiff springs that are overdamped = very harsh ride
Stiff springs that are underdamped = quickly oscillating ride
Soft springs that are overdamped = stiff ride
Soft springs that are underdamped = oscillatory ride

Damping is the resistance to oscillation.
Oscillations in vehicles is not damaging, it just makes for a very silly ride (it will wear out springs, however). If you over-damp with stiff springs, then it's like driving without a suspension at all. The springs are stiff, which means it takes great force to compress them, the over-damping means it is resistant to perturbations, so it will not respond well to defects in the road.

If you believe the stock combination of stiffness and damping to be something close to critical (it won't be, and you'd have to model both bounce and rebound anyway), and you crank only the stiffness way up, then you would have an underdamped spring/shock combination by definition.

As to how you want to describe the system or the ride or where the energy might wind up being dissipated, that's where I think we're getting into a silly argument about semantics.

the other user is just mad because he's poor, go for it

What you're saying sounds right. But the car felt too bouncy for it to be over damped. Maybe there wasn't enough suspension travel? Suspension bottoming out? I couldn't tell from the short time I was in it.

>Is an FRS a good first car to learn how to wrench/mod on?
Fuck no, the FRS is so fucking cramped theres no room for anything

Suspension tuning is a bit of an art. If the whole system doesn't work together the ride can turn horrible. Kind of like how you might have a car where all the ricebois say you need solid endlinks on your antiroll bar so it responds faster, but then if you don't adjust the rest of the suspension to suit you find out you paid $100 to take a useful dampener out of your suspension and now the body roll bounces back and forth.

>You’re right but it costs $5k to make a reliable 300whp, little more cash and you can hit 350 which is around the sweet spot for this weight anyways. Clearly you can get crazier with engine swaps, but this isn’t meant to be a 1000 hp Monster. If I wanted that I’d just buy a GTR and Alpha Motorsport it.
lolnah people spit rods, cranks and block/heads all the itme making 300-400rwhp

the fa20 is shit

Actually I would rather ricers come back
at least people could be into cars more than the tens of evo vs wrx, and muscle crowd would be

no one even has an interesting car anymore
The best car in my part of town is an integra with a shitty black rattlecan painjob