/ccg/ classic car general

For trues?

Shit didn't mean to sage I was on /pol/

how much would it cost roughly to have the 429 in my truck refreshed

Like 100 bucks at AutoZone and an afternoon

thanks dawg

RIP grandpop

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Hell yea man

Chinks don't really understand how carburetors are supposed to go together. Additionally remans just buy up a whole chunk of trashed carbs and mix/max parts. You may end up getting an emissions carb again (you can't undo a lot of a carburetor's emissions equipment).

Sometimes you get lucky and get a carb that is just fantastic but most times you don't.

Also i should say the reman BBD i bought for my slant six had non-gas resistant gaskets installed (lmao?) and the accelerator pump linkage has permanent slack in it so it'll never be timed right.

Jesus fuck man are u serious? I'm lucky my old man's childhood bud is a carb wizard he's gonna redo mine for my blown 355

The only thing stopping me is that I have no where to put it, I'll have two projects and a one car garage to put them in. Its not a problem with moving them around, its just collectors insurance requires you to have your car in a garage. If some nig fucks with your car or god forbid steals it one night and its on the street, its on you. Otherwise I don't mind having to play musical cars to work on them.

I just want something personable, and there's nothing more lovable than a fast old farmtruck.

Is a 40s Chevy Fleetline worth restomodding? I have a relative who can trade his motorcycle (he's got two bad knees and can't really ride it anymore) for one and I'd be personally swapping an engine and trans from a Grand Marquis into it (sorry, straight six, you've gotta go, a Modular V8 and AOD is taking your spot) and restoring the outside and inside to rat-status at least (belt-sanding the rust off, polish and repaint with flat paint, probably jury rig the interior with the Marquis seats or something custom using said Marquis upholstery)

Is this something I should consider doing?

Thanks for the tip spoon. I really dont want to have to buy another carb now. The mains are shot in my 400, and at some point its getting a full rebuild with speed parts, so I want to reserve getting a new carb for then. I just need to make this one run well enough until the mains finally spin out.

One of the guys in our shop was a tech for ford in the 70s and 80s. He's going to help me tune my carb. I can live without choke if I have to, I pretty much already do.

>Restomoding

The best way to get a carb is to buy a cheap core at a swap meet or eBay and rebuild it yourself; failing that, having a local shop rebuild it in-house.

I rebuilt a carb with my dad about ten years ago and I'm sure I could do it again. But I need some help tuning it, which is why I'm going to have my coworker teach me.

As far as aquiring the core though, what kind of carb should I get?

Waiting to get my engine block back from the machine shop so I can build it for the Falcon. spent today replacing a fender on my Silverado, it's almost a classic.

>As far as aquiring the core though, what kind of carb should I get?
Depends on how you'll build the 400.
IMO a pre-74 Quadrajet or Thermoquad are the best carbs for general performance. They don't drink gas like a Holley and they have secondary air doors so they'll always flow the amount of air the engine needs, no more or less.

Just replaced the door lock on my 79 corvette. Have been using it as a DD for the last 3 years and the only thing that has really gone wrong with it it is the driver side door. fixed the door lock a bunch of times and finally said to hell with it and just replaced the whole thing. Had to replace the door handle and the electric window motor not too long ago also. So that is pretty much everything in the door replaced now and will hopefully be the end of the pain in my ass.

>Had to replace the door handle and the electric window motor not too long ago also. So that is pretty much everything in the door replaced now
Is water getting into the door?

No problem with water in the door, just heavy usage on old parts. I'm in Australia so it doesn't rain much here anyway but all the seal and such are all good. Corvette door parts of this era are know problems, especially the door handles and the Chinese replacement parts are even worse.

R.I.P.

On that note, why why don't many 2v carbs have a similar setup of "two sizes of venturi, and only the small one is used if you're light on the throttle" (or at the least, the second part)? It'd help a 6cyl's power without losing economy.

Because 6 cyls are faggot mobiles so who cares about their """"""""""performance"""""""""

Because 2 barrel carbs are specifically economy equipment and were equipped on family V8s, duty engines, and six cylinders. You never really needed huge airflow on Mom's 4 door.

Speaking of quadrajets and thermoquads...

Our 67 Mustang has an FE block--would it be worth trying to find one of those carbs and a manifold (without using adapters, offenhauser 6148 seems to be the onyl choice) in place of the stock Holley 4160, or would it just be a waste of money and effort?

>when you want to post meaningful discussion on ccg but the most you've done to your car in the past month has been staring at it.

I wanna fix the bad repaint the PO did.

I feel the same way (no pics, too dark, sorry). THey even sloppily painted over the chrome hood letters!

Same here. Was gonna re torque intake manifold bolts again flush and fill oil a few times fit my hood swap out my PS box and.... ended up just chilling with my wife all weekend since o hasn't seen her for 14 days

You can always share plans and dreams. For example, I've been fantasizing about repainting my Imperial for years now. I don't know WHEN it will happen, but it's fun to share inspiration.

I've gotten a ton of shit done on my car but I'm going through an existential crisis and looking for another project, which is that green C10.

I wanted to do a fox body and make it a daily beater sleeper type deal, or a balls out turbo farm truck.

In that case, Probably need the mustang's engine redone at some point, it sat for 12 years and hasn't been run much since (even then never leaving driveway)

Or just drop a 428 in there in a few years....it may be an S-code car but the 390 in it is not the original one anyway.

4 barrel carbs are "square bore" or "spread bore".
First one they're the same size.
Second one the primary's are smaller than the secondary.
Holley makes both.
Holleys are also either mechanical secondarys or vacuum., mechanical better on manual transmissions, vacuum better on automatics.

Holley also makes a 2 barrel that has a primary/secondary.

The 2 barrel primary/secondary Holley's were used a lot on 4 bangers BTW.

>when you find a gem but its across the fucking country
;_;

Huh, never knew Holley made a spread bore. The only ones I ever saw mentioned were the tqaud and qjet.

Just an fyi for anybody who has small coolant leaks, these tabs are very good stuff. My bronco was leaking coolant from the head gasket and this fixed it. It doesn't leave a horrible residue in the cooling system and it won't block anything up.

GM developed up it for the giant mistake known as the Northstar that had porosity and head gasket issues resulting in coolant leaks.

>Not having stainless steel vacuum lines

How much my dude

$1

R8 don't h8

>Have bought two cars in California and Arizona
>Live in Michigan

Don't let distance stop you user

I've done similar.

Fly out; if it looks good, buy it and drive back. By the end, you'll either love it or want to sell it; either way, you'll know every quirk of the car and have a great experience.

Did you get it shipped? The only thing that sketches me out is the fact that it's fucking Craigslist. If it was eBay I'd have no issue

I'm torn between that cream puff and this beast I have a problem.

Bump

So turns out one of the guys on base will let me rent out his garage for like $100 bucks to paint my dart, and hes got the paint gun and air compressor already. Only downside is now im 2nd guessing the british racing green color and trying to come up with other ideas. Id do a jet black, but ive heard black is the hardest color to make look neat.

On another note, an old F100 or K5 blazer is starting to get very tempting..

Like something you just toss in your coolant? Is this not just another version of all that other stopleak stuff?

>Guys we need a new antifreeze!
>Hmm, the only stuff you can come up with immediately attacks aluminum?
>And it hates being exposed to air while hot and under pressure?
>And we're gonna tell people it lasts the lifetime of the vehicle, right?
>That sounds perfect! Ship it!

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Got some new books

...Off to a great start

saved

>18586850
Do look for these books, they;re like $10 or less on thriftbooks, hardcover no less!

/Cute Cat General/
I miss my cats.

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Nazis off my board

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You could have just laughed at the joke.
But you had to get mad.

dumb anime poster

I like the Previa version better.

>now im 2nd guessing the british racing green color
no
>and trying to come up with other ideas.
also no
>Id do a jet black,
still no
>but ive heard black is the hardest color to make look neat.
N-- wait, yeah, actually that's correct. Gloss black will show every little tiny ding in the body, even the ones you didn't know were there. BRG or flat (poverty) black are your best bets.

>On another note, an old F100 or K5 blazer is starting to get very tempting..
lmfao here we go again for the fifth (or seventh?) time

>meaningful discussion

>>>tumblr

Nah, not selling the dart. But there are a bunch of F100s around here in running condition for under 2k, and it is tax return season. Only think keeping me from becoming like Dracula is the lack of space.

skinhead =/= national socialists
Dumb nigger. Back to tumblr.

A dude on Craigslist is selling a '77 F100 for $5500. He says that everything on it is pretty much brand new, and that there's not a patch of rust on the thing. It's Craigslist, so I know he's full of shit.

Is this a good truck to start learning the basics of auto repair on? The most I've ever done to a car is the change oil.

I actually used to "have" an F100, but it didn't belong to me, so all repairs were done by the farmer who employed me.

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Yes. Drop in radiator. Let dissolve for about 15 minutes. Run engine for 20-30 minutes. Done. And yes, it is like that stuff but this stuff does not clog up your system or leave clumps. It's completely safe to use. The stop leak products will clog your system and leave a nasty residue on everything and hinder the heat to air transfer capability of the radiator. GM developed it to save their asses with Northstar porosity issues.

I dropped all five tabs in my bronco. Sealed the head gasket and no residue left on anything.

Add to sticky.
>Cute kitties welcome

They are very good to learn on. But if you missed the discussion about my 78 Bronco carb issues, the emissions equipment can be tricky on late 70s. If something is wrong with it, it won't run correctly. If the emissions equipment is ripped out and vacuum is re-routed correctly, it won't run well. Early 70s are best honestly. I learned a 72 F100.
Pic related

Is NOT re-routed correctly*

On that note, this is often most easily obtained by an intake and carb swap.

With a little experience, it's quite simple.

So I'm going to swap the carb on my bronco, I should get a new intake too?

Unfortunately the Holley lacks a secondary air door like the Carter and Rochester.

Secondary operation on Holleys is different than air valves but can achieve the same effect.

The commonly thought of Holley has secondary throttle blades operated mechanically but the vacuum secondary type uses a vacuum operated diaphragm that gets its signal from airflow in the primary venturi. That allows it to achieve the same effect of limiting airflow to only that which the engine can use like an air valve secondary carb does.

Fair and for most stock engines they'll never breathe deep enough to fully crack the air doors on a 'Quad, what i must say though to satiate my fanboyism is that 'Quads are pretty advanced carbs.

Finally got everything into the new building at work. Now we need to organize it after which we I can get back to restoring cars. Might have a split window Corvette coming in for a restoration.

'Bogs are ok on a milder engine and I'll use one in that role, or for off-road since they handle extreme angles well, but are more labor intensive to tune and suffer from smaller accelerator pump and fuel bowl capacities when used on higher power engines. Oh and the primaries are almost too sensitive.

Hope your Chevy F250 turns out well

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Looks nice man.

Anybody know where I can find 400m or 460 crate engines? Would it to be better money ahead to rebuild my 400 or should I just get a crate engine?
The thought of doing a 460 crossed my mind because it will bolt up. Is a 460 just a bored out 400, or is it a different block?

400's are of the Cleveland family (335 Series) and the 460 is another engine family (385 Series). The 460 is much larger physically but will fit most anywhere a 400 will since the 400 isn't exactly tiny. They do share bellhousing patterns (except for some rare 400's with the small block pattern) so the same trans should bolt up.

I'd probably go since I'm not real enthused about 400 blocks which have a reputation for core shift (like all the Cleveland family) and block cracking in the lifter valley (yes even the later "corrected" castings)

Fite me u mong.
Interesting that the Holley primaries are bigger then a big block Thermoquad primaries.

Quick question for u fine gentleman.

79 supercharged camaro fag here. So I'm gonna finally have time to re torque my intake manifold, flush engine, change oil and all that jazz to get the coolant out of my oil and from little crevices and whatnot that happened when my intake manifold gasket failed (for those of you who haven't been paying attention to my saga of suffering already repaired the leaky gasket and haven't had any problems with the car at all aside from finding some milkshake stuff inside vacuum lines and what looked like a little condensation on my dipstick but hey that's probably residual from when my crankcase filled with coolant and it hasn't drained or burned out yet since I rarely drive the car and it sits all night without a hood just collecting condensation for months at a time)

Say the absolute worst case scenario happens and my engine somehow toast. Blown head gasket, destroyed piston rings or something of the like... what's the cost on a complete rebuild average at a shop? I saw a 383 stroker for sale on a website for 3400$ advertised at 360hp and 420ftlbs and 9.2.1 compression ratio (could slap my supercharger on that) with a 5 year warranty.
The problem however is that this engine is essentially a stock 350 with a stroker kit installed. My current engine already has shit that rhis stroker wouldn't come with that's listed as "premier ad ons" on the website such as full roller rocker valve train, better aftermarket heads, more aggressive cam and the like. Would it be cheaper to just rebuild my current engine with a bore and stroke? Wouldn't that make more power over a bored and stroked stock 350?

Tl;Dr cost of a complete rebuild of an engine at a shop vs cost of a new 383 stroker for 3400$ vs cost of bore and stroking current engine

Why can't you rebuild it yourself? It's just a 350. There probably more articles on how to rebuild it then people in India and you'll be tripping over the aftermarket.

since you seem competent id say just rebuild the engine you have yourself. Now ill say my expertise is in e46 bmws which are alot different to american v8s but yes your engine will make more power than the 383 due to the aftermarket parts already in it now in e46s basically all the parts you stated cost 1000 minimum (cams,pistons, heads etc) so on basis of simply the cost of the engine its not worth it to buy one without these parts which youll probs end up installing anyway if you mod your car fairly regularly