Wheres the /mg/?

I'll ask again: what color wheels would work with merlot mica?

the stock bbs'd look great but they arent wide enough to fill the wheel wells. bronze maybe?

Yeah for sure, you are either getting a very nice miata or a best miata and dropping the rest in mowds

Black :^)

Invest in some quality spacers, or, if you have the budget, some quality 3p or 2p welded wheels. Keep it silver or gunmetal, id say

If you dont care about comfort (which you're on Veeky Forums so thats an easy answer) the NC has nothing going for it.

How consistent should an NA8's idle be? My tach needle fluctuates by about 50-100rpm, and has this tendency to to drift up to about 1000-1200 after a bit of driving. Not sure if it's fuel or a vacuum leak or what. Feels rough too, but I feel like that's mostly shitty engine mounts.

Turbo time soon

>that color

what year m is that?

1997, it’s Montego Blue Mica or something. 73 year old prev owner paid $1500 to get it resprayed 4 years ago. I only paid $2500 for the car...

Does the top trim "luxury" ND get the limited slip diff or is that just the Club model? I don't know what the trim is called outside of Canada. Want to get a CPO one in 2019, it seems the GS/Club trims are actually more expensive on the used market.

lmao my PO paid 2k+ to have the car resprayed and all the bodywork done. good feeling not having to worry about rust for a little while

>2k for orangepeel worse than the surface of the moon
hmmm

Yea this was the first car I ever bought that had a pile of receipts. Trans rebuild, respray, a $175 dealership battery... all kinds of things I’d never pay for.

It’s probably one of those things where the people willing to pay $2k for Miata bodywork probably don’t even know the difference, and those who do just drive cars with bad paint and save some money...

same PO that daily'd it on blown 100k+ shocks and literally zero mods

I'll take the shitty paint job over a car that was hooned half to death and molested with shitty mods

>all kinds of things I'd never pay for.
I bet you use foreign made tools, don't you?!?

>offerup
2 decent looking NAs, no responses (they have been posted for months now)
>letgo
nothing
>facebook
surprisingly more options than craigslist, but most are not in good conditions. really hard to sort through to find manuals though because most are listed as automatics so I have to click each listing and try to look for a pic of the interior

there is a 17,000 mile 96 miata posted on facebook that looks mint but it's a little outside my budget (posted for $5750 which is probably less than he could get on BaT for that low milage) and I don't have the heart to buy it and leave it outside in the winter

What the fuck did you just fucking say about me, you little bitch? I’ll have you know I graduated top of my class in Guandong Engineering school, and I’ve been involved in numerous secret engineering projects for the Chinese government, and I have over 300,000 confirmed product deployments. I am trained in finite element analysis and I’m the top tool designer in the Guangzhou province. You are nothing to me but just another inferior capitalist brand follower. I will wipe you the fuck out with precision tooling the likes of which has never been seen before on this Earth, mark my fucking words. You think you can get away with saying that shit to me over the Internet? Think again, fucker. As we speak I am contacting my secret network of factories across the People’s Republic to increase production of KD Tools. The storm that wipes out the pathetic little things you call your tools. You’re fucking done, kid. I can be anywhere, anytime, and I can disassemble and repair anything made by man, and that’s just with my bare hands. Not only am I extensively trained in alloys and metals, but I have access to the entire production backbone of China and I will use it to its full extent to wipe your miserable ass tools off the face of the continent, you little shit. If only you could have known what unholy retribution your little “clever” comment was about to bring down upon you, maybe you would have held your fucking tongue. But you couldn’t, you didn’t, and now you’re paying the price, you goddamn idiot. I will shit fury all over your tools and they will drown in it. You’re fucking dead, Mr. “Craftsman.”

Polished or silver imo.

orlando.craigslist.org/cto/d/1997-mazda-miata-85k-miles-obo/6475921557.html

thoughts?

That’s a lot of money for a base model. No Torsen or anything on that trim. My suggestion for Florida is to look in the smaller craigslist areas near wherever you live. Often move slower and have better deals when they do pop up. Check the “include nearby areas” on your search. Tampa, Orlando, Miami craigslists are all too competitive.

hopw can you tell from those pics if there was a torsen?
>not m
>no leather

but can't it still have had the preferred equipment pkg w/ torsen?

No cruise control or power windows, the popular equip that year comes with everything in the “touring” package. miata.net/faq/america/1997.html

There’s a super helpful chart out there of all the years/trims/options. I also have a 97, with power windows and mirrors but no LSD thanks to the dumb Touring package. The packages vary a bit every year so you have to be careful.

this one?
miata.net/faq/Miata90-97A3.pdf

good to know though i hadn't noticed the power windows

Found that chart I mentioned. Super helpful.

miata.net/faq/Miata90-97A3.pdf

Haha yep, beat me to it.

In my case, living in CA and being a pussy whipped bootlicker, ideal for me would be a 1994 because
>1.8
>Oil Pressure Gauge
>OBDI so can convert to Megasquirt and throw on the CARB approved tarbo kit
Just the Club in the U.S. gets the LSD, the Grand Touring doesn't get it, though I think it gets more roof insulation and the like. I heard it's kind of a bitch to swap in/out the diff in the ND, but it's been done.

>looking for hardtop for my NB
>want a black one with a demister
>less than 10 hardtops for sale in the whole of aus
>one comes up 2 hours from me in black with a demister for $1100AUD
>organise to buy it on the weekend
>sold 2 hours after i organised to go and buy it

fuck the cunt who bought that hardtop from me

>more sidewall
>lower 1/2 inch

Yeah, you need to take the rear subframe out. Arguably only worth it if you're planning to track the car.
forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=596839

It looks perfect how it is. Anything you do would be a downgrade.

Mfw perfect stance meets optimum fitment

Good luck on the hunt, goys!

This.

Don't really have to contribute anything. I installed delrin door bushings from MiataMods and bought a broken two-part sunvisor for my NA that I clipped the second part off of to get a better view near the top of the windscreen because I'm tall and visors are required safety equipment in Germany.

Otherise I'm just waiting for winter to be over.

Wew lad, thought I had crank pulley wobble but it's just the rubber in the balancer. It's a good day.

>I installed delrin door bushings
Are they worth buying? Thought about getting them too.
Also sun visors aren't needed (in BW at least). I removed mine and passed TÜV.

yeah an m edition with factory wheels is great to look at

Buy a new, wider set for your summer tires and keep the bbs for wintertime. Thats what i do, but the set i got were already in rough shape so i didnt feel bad about them getting beat up in the wintertime.

I can't tell you yet since the car is still in winter storage. All I can say is that the installation was easy and the doors open and close just as fine as with the stock ones, given correct alignment of the bushings, which I did. I don't expect any difference in chassis stiffness, but I am hoping for reduced door rattle over potholes and such. We'll see.

Also good to know you can actually get through TÜV without visors. I didn't want to risk it (The damaged base for my "custom" visor was a quarter of the price for a TÜV inspection.), but that's always good to know.

Summermeats

>time to respray the car
>google british racing green color code
>mfw

4225??

Yes.

ayy
H&R swaybars arrived too

Nice. You repainted the controlarms? How long did it take you to remove them and replace the bushings? I kinda want to redo my control arm bushings, but I'm worried it might turn into a giant pain in the ass to press them out.

yeah, some some anti corrosion stuff callex owatrol oil and brantho korrux in grey bc black was sold out lol.
it's pretty easy if you have a press. just be careful to not bend the control arms. I used pic related to press them out, found it in a toolbox and it was a perfect fit

Thanks for the tips. I'm gonna get around to it eventually!

>BC Racing
kek

Can golf clubs fit in an na Miata trunk possibly later itterations. Golf club length is about 47 inches for the longest. Anyone know if they would fit

It would be tight. The boot certainly isn't 47 inches wide nor deep, but if you remove the spare wheel it might just fit diagonally. I'd rather put it behind the passenger seat (slide it forward enough) though.

Kek. Just found this: youtube.com/watch?v=KbYpYPJsk1E

Can someone still sit in that seat after it is pushed forward

Uh that's an nb though

Only if they aren't tall and it's not for long. Or if they are short, like around 5'5 or less

If push comes to shove, you could also use the rear parcel shelf in front of the soft top. You should deffo secure any luggage you put up there with some kind of expanders though.

I want to put those XXRs 15x8s with +20 offset. People tell me that an 17 pound wheel is too heavy for the Miat but I cant find an accessible wheel with those specs and looks.

Any recommendations and does wheel weight matter as much +- a few pounds.

I am using my car as a DD and not racing it at all.

that's a super aggressive offset, ~2" further out than stock wheels

the wheels are way heavier than stock and a wider tire means more contact with the ground

you'll feel slower if you're on stock power for sure

I mean I could take off my driver head off each time which would bring it down to like 40 when out of the bag, would that fit

How much did y'all buy your miatas for and how much lower was it than listed price? I'm saving up for one now and have ~$1300 and figure I can get a decent one for around 3 grand in the Seattle area

I almost bought those but the fact that there's only like two cars that have ever been pictured with those exact wheels has me suspect as fuck about them. The only XXRs I've seen on the road in the last three or so years has mostly been the 002s and 531s, some 527s and rarely 513s or 522s. I've never once seen the 537s IRL so fuck that shit.

enkei compes
seriously don't buy XXRs

sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/miata-na-1997-low-miles/6465857925.html
does this look good? should i check it out

rota rb's are lighter and better made my man. Also 15x8 +20 is just about perfect size, anything wider or less offset pokes.

Washcuck here, 3 grand should get you a fantastic na6 or a pretty good na8. All I can say is have patience, prices go down right before winter. Also being willing to go to places where people dont usually buy miatas can get you good deals.

t. got my 1990 in tri-citys for 1700

>mfw had a WAT sticker from the owner before the guy I got it from.

Guy I work with has this clean 95 MX-5 for sale. 98,000 miles, mostly stock except for roll cage, asking $4,500 obo. Do I?

...

I'm considering selling my NA to get an NB, since my NA has quite a few body issues and I don't think it'd be worth spending all the money to fix them.

Worth it?

Yeah the RBs are my next to go choice. They are marginally more expensive but better that than having boat anchors

i'm considers trading my 97 with 93k for an e30 cause my na is too small, tell my why this is the worst decision of my life

...

i bought my 01 nb last year for 2k the kbb on it is anywhere from 2500 to 5k so i felt like I was geting a steal but then a month after having it the trans blew so that put me about 1600 more into it so I feel like I could break even on it but miatas are kind of hard to sell in utah

Okay help me out guys, I have an NA, and it needs a new engine, I can get the one I've got rebuilt, but I'm thinking I could get an NB engine and swap it, since it makes a little more power, can't decide between the one with VVT or the one without, iirc the vvt is 2001+ and non vvt is 99-01? Any recommendations??

well in theory the VVT should be better for gas saving and power. The 2 things i would ask is 1st what are the milages on each engine and 2nd is it hard to upgrade a cars engine to VVT that doesent have it already

No. The NA's will go up in value soon.

i really doubt it

Haven't specifically found an engine to buy, so can't say mileage