QTDDTOT

pumping gas
adjusting side mirrors
changing wiper blades
reseting trip odometer
adjusting volume on stereo

using phone to call mechanic

Should I be concerned about this? Noticed it a week ago but haven't had any drop in pressure.

Yes, get it fixed ASAP.

Its not that deep, and its not like you can "get it fixed" anyway. If its not creating a leak or imbalance, dont worry about it.

I actually have driven 600 miles in the past week on it and nothing happened, so I was just looking for affirmation of my defiance. Thanks anons.

Removing both cats on the exhaust line.
Should I keep a twin pipe setup?
If I put only one straight pipe Will it fuck my exhaust dynamic?

single bigger pipe will flow just as fine as 2 smaller pipes, look at your restriction due to pipe diameter after the 2 cats. Make sure you have some sort of spacer on your O2 sensor, otherwise you'll end up with a permanent CEL.

Is it normal for your car to shudder a little bit when changing from drive to park? Theres no vibration or noise so i dont think its the tranny mounts

If there's no cords showing its nothing to be concerned about

I was traveling on a small 2-lane street, a tractor trailer up ahead to my left was turning onto said street into the opposite lane. Being a larger truck, while making his right turn, he came over into the lane I was traveling in a little bit.

Rather than stopping and waiting for him to fully complete his right turn, I kept going and to avoid him, just moved to the right, crossing the solid white line.

He blew his horn at me, not sure if he had to slam his brakes.

I'm just curious who has the right of way. Should he have waited until the road was clear to make his right turn? Or should I have stayed back until he completed his turn?

Hmm I recognize that kinda exhaust its from a Mercedes W202 or something like that.
You be fine with 2.5" inch, that what I used on my C230K,

how did this happen?

user, you are good haha.
Guessed the car from the catalytic converters only!
Ok thanks for the advice. Was it louder than stock?

Thanks.

Yeah it was loud as fuck, but could be because I ran straight pipes, well as straight as i could to get around the diff and drive axle. Only a aftermarket muffler in the back which didnt help much at all haha.

I will keep the resonator and stock muffler, I don't want it to drone!
Thank you for your input.

Gotcha, if I may ask why only remove the cats?

>its not like you can "get it fixed" anyway
It's just a 3/8" deep gouge out of the sidewall don't worry, user, since you can't fix holes in the sidewall. When it does blow out hopefully you plow head-on into a semi so as to minimize deaths to only yourself and not someone else on the road minding their own fucking business.
Also, nice rash on that rim, retard.

...

Semis take wide right turns, jackass. In addition, you don't fucking pass on the shoulder, fuck nuts.

youtube.com/watch?v=6Vxa1rQgoRY

I don't want it to be stupidly loud. I hate when it drones on the highway.
Also I ran with a broken MAF for a while and it fucked up the cats (I think).
So I decided to cut them off.

Not to start argument because, I admit, it was stupid and it isn't wise to make a habit of, or to do so at all, even. But, the driver in the video does say "when it's clear..." and there are clearly no cars approaching. I feel that the driver of the semi, knowing that his vehicle turns wide holds the responsibility of judging when it is safe to do so.

First time new bike owner here.
Starting my carbed gs500. With choke fully on it idles at 4-5000. Is this normal? Do i let it idle here until it warms up?

Thanks for help.

Is it possible to use a steering wheel from a completely different car, if so what kind of modifications would be needed to make it work?

Normal.
Yes.
Slowly remove the choke until its fully off and the idle is stable.

Depends on sterring rod.
I have achieved the swap on many steering but of the same brand as the car.
Best bet is a quick release hub adapter.

Thanks you for the help

You can give it less choke once it is started though.
Youllget used to it.

>RTFM (READ THE FUCKING MANUAL)
do not have

got it all sorted

What kind of grease do the ball joints on my steering rack need?

All usage.
Lots of it.

You don't need to put the choke on fully every time you start, think of it as a sliding scale that varies depending on how cold it is that particular day.
If it's a mild day, you might only need half choke.

Try starting it with varying amounts of choke until you find the starting point, 4-5000 is too high and you should be aiming for below 25000-3000

Just seal it up so you don't have an open cut on there.

Get a haynes manual and work through changing all of the consumables, there's more to do with a car of that age than just oil and filters.
Join a few owners groups and look at things they're doing too, small performance mods that you can do at home for relatively low cost.
Add some aftermarket lights on the front and learn about wiring them through the firewall and into your car, taking trim apart properly, etc.
It's up to you chuck.

There's no downside to removing a muffler right? I'm pretty sure my car still has its cats.
I think I've noticed a slight torque decrease in the low end since doing it, but that's it.
2014 mustang gt btw

Exhaust systems provide certain amounts of back pressure and removing your muffler without a replacement or tuning for the circumstances WILL lower performance

looking to get a tune on my 2010 civ si to get rid of the bad throttle response and rev hang, my local shop says They can do a custom street tune for about $300, or they can do a hondata basemap flash for $450. The custom tune seems like a no brainer, and the shop is extremely reputable. Am I missing anything?

I dont have any major mods except for a short ram intake and a freer flowing axelback put in by the previous owner. Dont have the money to do headers and full exhaust rn but Im considering getting it down the road in a few years.

fug.
gonna add a muffler back, then

Whats a good way to find out and compare used cars I want to save up for? I autistically look for €5k cars but mostly keep adding possible cars to consider. Dont even have the money at all, since I make very little every month and have to pay off some debt.
Dont really have anything else to do so might as well go all-out on researching.

I know you should get a pre purchase inspection if buying a used car but I don't have the extra funds or patience for that. Would I be fine just buying a known reliable car that drives well enough? (like Honda/Acura)!

maybe at least get a VIN check?

would you use medium (blue) thread locker on alan hex screws?

How much are you paying?

Who's offering the best autotrans ?
I absolutely need one but I have bad experiences with shitty one.

Looking to destroy my savings at a young age with a shitbox. Which one should I get? I'm wanting something with a turbo but it's not a requirement.

So far I'm looking at
>Any gen MR2, AW11 if I can find one, ZZW30 if I can source a 2zzge to swap in
>FC RX7
>BMW E30
>BMW E36
>Celica GTS
>Porsche 944

I'll put my budget at $6k but I'd prefer to spend less. I have the ability to wrench myself and my dad's a mechanic.

buy car

He's also expecting not to have a car sneak up on the shoulder, ignoring his turn signal. Most trucks also have this pic or similar on it, so even if it wan't on that particular truck it would hard to say you've never seen it before.

A few k in that neighborhood?

>threadlocker
>on any screw
not unless it's critical and never accessed
>threadlocker on bolts 4 ever

bumping for

I'm a 30 year old friendless virgin that never learned to drive and somehow managed to save up money to buy a car over the last few years. I can't for the life of me find a person to teach me to drive.
What do, anons? I even offered to pay people. I've had 4 or 5 people swear up and down on a stack of bibles they'll teach me on x day and then they just flake and never see them again. They all might be dead for all I know.

My 99 Lumina suddenly has no power to the solenoid. I'm too lazy to check the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch, so I just rigged together a simple switch circuit that gives power directly to the solenoid from the battery when I flip a switch. It works all fine and dandy, but I have no idea how to get any cables through the firewall. Right now I just have this circuit hanging in through my driver side window, and hilarious as it is, I would prefer to have it all be contained WITHIN the car.

Tl;dr How do I get wires through the firewall in a 99 Lumina?

Fix it right, before you driving down the road in a fireball.

Could I use white lithium grease on a sticky accelerator cable or should I use silicon? Got a MK3 Supra with a fantastically sticky accelerator pedal and it's almost 100% impossible to revmatch with it.

My dad is high as fuck on cough syrup and cat fishing people with my name how do I end this?

I would, anyway if its an automatic, It drives itself. D is go, and only change gears when stopped. Pratice on residential streets, driving a car is easy, the only issue are other drivers

3k civic

I'd just pay for lessons if you don't actually know how to drive a car, they aren't that much so you can definitely afford them if you can afford to buy a car. If you meant just learning how to drive a manual, I'd just dive headfirst into buying one. Just pick up some dirt cheap Sentra and stall the piece of shit all the way home. Don't depend on "friends" they'll often let you down.

Does it really work for every problem?

All hail the Goblin King

I've literally never been behind the wheel of a car. I lived in a big city my entire life and I moved out to the fucking boonies and there's no one to teach me to drive. I'm too autistic to walk up to random neighbors and ask.
I think it'd be hilarious to go to a car lot and buy a car and drive it home. I'm actually considering doing this, only problem is the part where it's technically illegal without a licensed driver next to me.

Get project MGB, no known history of the car, paid $200 for the car, I went to rebuild the carb and it has a Mikuni PHH 44 setup. Everything I have tried to find shows there is no kit for this swap and shouldn't be on there. Why would someone swap to this highflow carb and does it mean that there are any other surprises waiting for me as I tear down the engine?

Grease, silicone is for rubber or plastic. Are you sure it isn't the throttle plate sticking?

This

Fix it right, imagine going 70 at 4000 rpms and you accidentally hit the switch sending the bendix into your flywheel.

Is you Chrysler?

Lexus and Subaru

Get the car fax and look it over yourself?
Plenty of youtube videos on how to inspect a car.

I use the high temp (green) gease

Alright. Well I have no voltage on the solenoid cable. However, I get a proper 12V on the starter relay when the key is cranked. I get proper voltage through all of my fuses labeled with ignition.
I haven't actually checked the ignition switch properly yet since I can't really get at it, but the little rod that moves when I turn the key seems to be working just fine. And I have no idea where to find the neutral safety switch. In case it wasn't obvious, I'm not really much of a car person, I hate working in these tiny cramped spaces, but I also don't want to shell out a shitload of money when the car itself is only worth like $600.

How much do you think a mechanic would charge to fix it properly for me? I know with electrical you usually pay by the hour.
If you were an actual trained guy with proper tools and such, how long would it take you to get a car running when somebody tells you "the car only starts if I jump the solenoid manually"? I have no idea if this is a tough issue for an actual mechanic, or if it's something they'll have done in an hour or two.

desu if you brought this car to our shop I would start with 1 hour diag.
$120/ hour here in sunny SoCal
If it was something stupid like a blown fuse then just .25 hours (min charge) and the fuse. But if I trace it down to the NSS then ill charge you diag time, time to put the switch in plus the part.
Now if shit goes south and its the computer or something then I can easily exceed the value of the car.

How do you get pic related off the windshield?
It completely fused with the glass and the PVC foil in the back just crumbled and the green paint is now permanently stuck to the glass. I've tried some glass cleaning product I have here as well as the usual denatured alcohol which I use to get the highway vignettes off of the windshield but the fucker just won't come off. And I don't want to scratch the otherwise spotless glass.
Any idea other than changing the whole thing?

Also bonus question for you Germans. Do I need this green sticker when I go over to Germany or are these only for residents?

No, see, he was turning onto the road I was traveling on, 2 lanes of traffic total, one lane moving in each direction divided by solid yellow. I wasn't sneaking up on the shoulder. We were facing each other. I moved maybe, less than halfway into the shoulder to avoid hitting him head on. He turned out in front of me, and my guess is he assumed that I would stop. I am in the wrong for assuming that he would wait for traffic to pass before making his right turn.

Bottom line: if I wouldn't misjudged the amount of room I had, it would've been a head-on. And I was right at the end of my street, no less.

Mistakes like that just eat away at me afterwards. And I know why it happened. I get road fried too easily. I begin going through the motions of driving rather than being in the moment making calculated decisions.

*Would have misjudged

Thank God I didn't.

have you tried acetone? that shit gets everything off.

I kinda wanna import a Crown Comfort but I don’t really know anything about car maintenance. Living in Australia would it be possible to get it serviced and parts replaced on the cheap?

Is this just a retarded idea in general?

Forgot pic

>lives adjacents to japan
>basically a fantastic Camry
didn't STRAYA get like a holden captive import camry as well?
sounds like u got lots of parts m8

>$200 car
>not expecting PO to have fuckd it up
pick one

Cheers for the info. I really know jack shit about parts and maintenance but it makes sense that all the Camry’s over here would make it easier. I’m just kinda trying to feel the idea out at the moment.

sure bud
to be clearer, the most camry-like ones are the 3s-fe and the 4s-fe engines
the diesel and LPG models sound neat tho

When ordering brake rotors from rockauto do they come in pairs or do I have to buy 2 of them

Can I use dexron-III/ Mecron transmission fluid in my 2004 ford taurus?

>rotors
gotta buy individually
>hardware
usually has both sides
>pads
usually includes both sides

no use mercron V or equivalent

Asking here because miata general is kill. Want to get pre 1994 NA for cheap insurance. Are there any special considerations to check that it isn't on its way out or will every car I look at be a rusting clusterfuck?

>catfish dad badman
>buy 3k civic
>run him over in 3k civic
>flee state in 3k civic
>go to hardware store and spraypaint 3k civic
>start life anew with 3k civic

I'm stuck in VA with these as options

>stuck in VA
i'm so sorry
>which do?
the left one

Thanks

>>rotors
>gotta buy individually

i buy my Rotors off Amazon (same brands as Rock Auto) and they always come in pairs.

is this a good car?
looks fucking amazing, the V8 R version goes for like 45k gbp used (used meaning max 10k miles), sounds GREAT, lots of horsepowers.
honestly where's the catch?