/mg/ Miata general

Does it idle fine on its own in neutral? That would rule out the engine.

yes it does. could it possibly be low on transmission fluid? would that be causing the lurching and failure to produce power?

ye manual

I'm trying to beat myself up enough to stupidcharge my brz so I can cut my guts out for never knowing that I should have just gotten an rx7.

What miata should I drive to settle my heart, and do I need to get one so I can do my own LS swap?

my 1.6 is a shortnose crank and I thing my front seal is leaking
pls hold me

*think

agreed, popups are hideous

...

What's considered an ok price for a 200k kilometers miata NA/NB?

imma 13b swap my miata

No more than $3.5 k if in perfect condition

Do it faggot. Post results. Also challenge V6 mustangs and camaros for a good time "What are you so afraid of? It's only a 1.3 liter OEM Mazda engine.

ill do it. gonna save up a lot first and get a really solid engine + parts to build it a little. not gonna boost it too hard, just don't want to be too scared to beat on it.

NA > ND > NB > NC
NC is uggo

Sounds like you blew the diff. If the engine runs normal in neutral and the trans will shift into each gear fine when you have the clutch in thats probably it. If the actual engine is cutting out than it might be a fuel issue, possibly in tank filter clogged.

>be me
>want an NA Miata
>live in MA
>convertibles are only usable 5, maybe 6 months out of the year
>already have a DD
>dont have garage so dont have place to store Miata in the winter
>would be paying insurance for it during the winter

idk

ND>NB>NC>NA

fixed for you

the thing will fuck up mustang gts too. A bridgeported 13b in a one ton car is no joke

Considering getting the NA from the 90s and all, heard they're slow on stock though. Any miata specific upkeep I should be aware of?

This.

Why is every miata in the world red?

fuck. yeah it shifts fine and runs normal in neutral

I wish we got the 1.5L ND here.

Get a slightly beat up, high mileage one for cheap. You wont feel bad about driving it for only a few month.

If your DD is practical, you have a clean record and you insure it as a summer/vacation car it should only add on like $20 per month on top of your normal insurance payment.

I'm having a godawful time trying to get the control arms off of my NA. It seems like the bolts have rusted to the control arm bushings, so I'm trying to cut them out with my sawzall. It's just a really fuckin slow process.

I really wanna drop a 26b TT in something just to fuck with pooghati and lambo owners.

"Its a stock 2.6 engine, no speed parts!"

Control arms can be a bitch on almost any car, I think hammering the actual thread of the bolt will do better since the bushings themselves can break inside the control arm

Or whatever, I'm just talking about the control arms bushings on the engine's side

>put a 26b in a miata
>drop the hammer at the lights
>engine launches out the car into the side of the moon
>car flies backwards, causes a terror incident as it melts a skyscraper
>miraculously you're left sitting on the ground where the car once was, a rotor speared into the asphalt between your legs

Have fun. Do yourself a favour and buy the key, bolt, front and cam seals while you're at it.
Chances are the key will be a tad wallowed out, so buy a tiny tube of Loctite 660 while you're at it and ask around for a torque wrench.

If you're going to get someone else to do it, there are 2 'agreed upon' methods to make sure the pully gear bolt is torqued correctly. Be absolutely adamant that they use 1. A new bolt and key and 2. Torque that fucking thing properly, it's torque to yield and cannot be reused. Some blue loctite on the thread is also suggested.

What parts actually fail when I grind gears? For instance, if I plan on upgrading my clutch with a replacement later, can I give no fucks?

it seems like a lot of the videos ive seen of blown miata diffs have a weird whine or clunk, but i dont have this? is it maybe not the diff? or how would I diagnose it as a diff issue? again thanks for the help

Thatsmyfetish.webm

I have a suspension/steering question
I just replaced the front shocks, tie rod ends, and ball joints on my NA. When I was putting it back together, on the driver's side, the sway bar end link had to be forced pretty strongly into the slot on the control arm. It's at an ugly angle and I had to pry it into position by the bolt. The mounting slots on the control arm are pretty bent now too. Is this normal? I haven't found any write ups that mention this situation.

pic is the area i'm talking about but not mine. this guy's shit is kinda bent too isn't it

The bar has some preload because the car is not sitting perfectly level. That why people get those adjustable end links like in your pic, so they can adjust out the preload. You dont want your bar to have preload because that means your effective spring rate is different on each side of the car.

yeah, I've read everything about replacing it, that's why I'm not really keen on doing it desu
I'm still not 100% sure if it's the front seal, the engine looks like it hasn't been cleaned in 26 years

Its really not hard to do. Just make sure you torque the bolt correctly and you'll be fine. If you go in to replace the seal you should do the timing belt and water pump as well. Good time to do it.

>NA with the VVT engine and aftermarket braces > every Miat except the ND.
Mine still has the BP, but I dream of dat VVT swap.

The NB is the *exact* same car as the NA, with more bracing, safety cladding, weight, and VVT to make up for said weight.

Abarth or Club ND still objectively a best, but you will fall in love keeping your supah-kawaii NA alive.

Hi friends

poorfag here; recently bought a 91 v spec and wanting to change the tranny oil. to get some GL4 75w-90 here would be about $60 for 2 quarts, so I have 2 questions:

will 2 quarts be enough for the tranny considering im probably gonna fuck this up somehow bc im very new to tinkering with cars

I also want to change the diff oil. I assume i'm not gonna have enough left over of the GL4 75w90, can I just use lower quality oil in the diff? will it make a difference? Or should I not cheap out on this.

Thanks!

Holy shit, please neck yourself

Don't sweat it too much.
Just follow the instructions as best you can, make sure all the threads are clean etc.
Or you can do what I did, drown the bolt in blue loctite, slather 660 over the keyway and bolt that cunt on so hard that when the AC pump vibrates loose, it bends the crank nose.

While you're at it, I got rid of that horrendous overrun rattle by stripping this bastard thing apart.

Make SURE it's GL-4 not GL-5, and yes, a smidge over 2 quarts.
Or just until it comes out the fill hole with the car on a level ground.
Diff doesn't give a fuck about the oil, even GL5 is fine, same filling method as the tranny. Just make sure that with both, you undo the fill port first, i.e don't drain both and then find out the fill port is seized.

In my experience stainless wire tightened in a drill holds the wrap much tighter than those straps do.

is a six speed transmission that much stronker than a 5 speed?
planning on running ~400whp or more using a thicc BW tarbo

400whp and babying the shifts and it'll hold, hard launches and it'll break.

Definitely, I overlooked that at the time and the wrap came with a bunch so I used em all. After a year it's juuuust starting to wiggle out of the top end.
Truth be told, I'm practically waiting for the pipe to just implode any day now from material loss.

would a soft, sprung clutch help?

Definitely

>yes it works unless you use all 400hp

k

K then, 200 and go hard.

Then don't be broke? Build a 6 speed with straight cut 1st-4th with hardened syncros.

Or a cheaper route would be hardened syncros 1st-3rd, swapping in 5th gear from the 5 speed, eliminating 6th then collar the gear stack so you get no stack flex.

what light is this called? trying to replace a busted in one

License plate light housing/lense I guess?

lol wow easy find. thanks bro