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pff, i could do that on my sportbike

*bottoms out*
*cracks belly fairing and dents headers*

recommend me engines to swap into a '74 kawasaki G4TR with little welding and fab work necessary. looking to spend about $250-300 on a new assembled unit.

Turbo busa

what does dbt think about supercubs

VMAX 1700CC

Don't forget user, offroading is better on 70/30s than on knobbies. Saying otherwise means you're trying to show up someone who's been offroading for 25 years.

Gay scooters made for package thieves and women. On the bright side, they are really really cheap, and you don't often need a motorcycle license for them in some states.

I would HIGHLY recommend getting a 250cc bike though, because riding exclusively in the right lane is dangerous at any speed.

>not Triumph 2.3l

LS1

Took a look at a Honda GW Valkyrie today while browsing for my next ride, holy hell was that a lot of bike. Probably heaviest I tried to stand up.

That's like 2 inches of ground clearance at best, with momentum and knowing how to control your machine there's no reason you couldn't do that on anything from an R1 or a Road King.

Postie bikes are fun but they're useless outside the city.

>remember i have several shit old flatspot tires
>want to mount them to do SIKKKK burnouts

yep its gonnna happen lmao its not like im ever going to use them

but you guys have to no bully for my bike

digits for ducati

What bike
That request may be impossible to accomplish

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>that faint shooting star on the left half of the pic over the mountains
Aesthetic

Clearly a sun glare you dolt

Is it?

Thought you were talking about the left side. That looks more like a plane
You won't be able to see a shooting star during the day

How the hell were you retards able to pick out an eyelash worth of space on a full length panoramic picture?

Superior genetics

Literally autism

the absolute state of soyboy bike owners in the UK

scared at every person on a moped LEL

youtube.com/watch?v=NpUFtf8xyrI

Man riding in the UK looks miserable.
>progressive licensing
>cucked useless police force
>bike thieves everywhere
>can't carry to protect life and property
>can filter but offset by narrow as fuck roads and dense traffic
>rains most of the year
>mot inspections
The list goes on

>ugly architecture everywhere
>dog shit culture of povertyball and beer
>shitskins
>cameras everywhere
>bin a knife save a life

The UK is so bad that people thought making America would be an improvement

Bought a non running 1986 ninja 600 "cafe project bike" for 300 bucks.

>>got a battery
>>cleaned and bench synced the carburetors
>>Starts up on first engine cycle
>>Runs pretty good, no strange noises
>>Cleaned up most of the wiring
>>unfroze the front brakes
>>actually bought some seals for the calipers, however now that I cleaned the original seals, the breaks work properly
>>Rubber clamps that go from the airbox to the carbs are hard as granite and shrunk past oblivion
>>they're about 20,000 bitcoin each.
>>there's four of them
>>made my own with some rubber hose
>>Radiator started leaking
>>center stand fouls on chain
>>side stand fouls on gear shifter

How fucked am I Veeky Forums?

That's not even the worst part - at least you can ride away or defend your property so there's a chance of your bike not getting brazenly stolen.
Your bike doesnt stand a chance if you leave it parked outside. No amount of chains or security will stop thieves if they really want your bike.
There was a story about a VIP bodyguard that got axed when he was attempting to stop a moped theft outside his own house.
"We must deal with the problem of bike thieves at its source, by killing them." - James May

>radiator started leaking
Grab one off literally any bike and bracket it on
>center stand fouls on chain
Remove it
>side stand fouls on gear shifter
Bend it out of the way

Alternatively buy a new frame because it sounds like it's knackered

Only if you're doing dumb highway shit, rural backroads and enjoying the journey is actually quite nice.

They can traverse most terrain too, that C90adventures guy managed to go to the North Pole and through deserts and shit.

>12 year old sportbike that cost 12 grand new, lightly used
$4k
>12 year old DRZ400 that cost 7 grand new, lightly used
$5k

>craigslist

Hey now, steel backbone frames, spoked wheels, single piston brakes, carbs, and single cyllinder engines spinning faster and making bigger bangs than they really should are the pinnacle of engineering. You get what you pay for.

I actually found a decent looking used for a 600 for pretty cheap tough. I know used is used, but I just want to try and get this thing moving as simply and cheaply as possible, in order to assess if it's worth the money and time.

From what I can tell, both stands are from other bikes, so they probably just made a shitty mess of installing them.

I blame the motovloggers.

Yes.
Dual sports/Dirt bikes are not cheap and they never have been cheap especially when you consider all the extra maintenance they need and the cost of that maintenance.

Older frames were more prone to bending and less prone to snapping. Make sure the geometry is all right. You can have brake discs cambered out just from dropping a bike in your garage and never notice it over the course of several years.

This. You should be paying good money for a bike that will need a new top end in a couple of years. They're expensive to own and people want their money back.

is there even a point in buying brand new?if a dealership gets a used bike to sell for themselves they must be quite certain that the bike is good,if its good and with proper care whats stoppint it from lasting forever with proper maintenance?dont give 2 fucks about the latest model desu 07 models look fine to me assuming they work properly

>if a dealership gets a used bike to sell for themselves they must be quite certain that the bike is good
haha

I used to ride a moped that was so crooked that up to around 20kph it leaned to the left and after that it leaned to the right at an extreme angle.

im not talking about yards,authorized dealer gets a used bike of the brand hes repressenting,isnt it to his best interest to make sure the bike is alright? wouldnt bad rep otherwise ruin his business and the brand itself for having such a shitty dealer? (around here its rare to have more than 1 dealer per brand,everyone else is an importer)

Half the people that buy a bike don't give half a shit about the break in period, they just trade it in in 2 years. I see so many used bikes with 2-10k miles that are usually repos, always sold "as is". Get yourself an aftermarket warranty if you plan to keep a real bike for any real period of time.

Maintenance is one thing, replacing the shift forks, gears, or engine mechanics is another.

If you can afford it, having a new bike is really nice. You know exactly how it's been ridden.
It's like sticking your dick into a virgin.

>bike sits for the winter
>ride it to work for the first time today
>works flawlessly there
>get off at 7am, cold af outside
>start bike, fires up then turns off right away
>does it about 10 times
>then turns on and runs fine the whole way home
i-it's just old gas. r-right guys?

How long before you should stop letting a bike sit? Reasonably at least, I know go every day/etc.

3 days? A week? A fortnight?
I've never left it for more than a week, but I'm just curious. Also in a warmer climate since I'm an ausfag and it never drops below freezing

Been procrastinating for a couple hours by reading about tires. I've never bought tires before; my SV650S has the previous owner's tires on it still and they'll need replacing soon.

I don't have the bike at hand to check right now but I was looking through my pics to see if I could ID the current tires. The rear is Conti Road Attack 2 for sure, but idk what the front is, pic related.

Heard a lot of internets say "get Pilot Road 4's and call it good" but their thing seems to be best in class wet weather performance, and a long lifetime. I'll mostly be in socal though, which is dry, so I'm wondering if I should widen my options.

I like the sound of the "continuous compound" thing that Continental and maybe others do with the steady gradient between hard and soft rubber instead of a sharp transition between compounds on a two or three compound tire. I'm also a pretty novice rider with about 3-4 months experience and am between jobs, so honestly I value price point and mileage over cornering performance or quick warming. I don't anticipate doing any track days in the near future; I'll mostly be commuting and maybe hit up a few of the s/o/cal canyon driving meetups.

Anyone here have opinions on Metzeler Roadtec 01's? What makes user happy / sad about his current shoes?

Carbs or efi?

Yeah don't get PR4's if you're in socal, they get greasy when it's hot.
Roadtec 01's are supposed to be really good, they're what I would go for.

EFI
i didn't pull fuel stab in there because im retarded but it was running great until i fired it up when it was pretty cold old

Roadtecs are a fine choice for you, buy then with confidence.

i really like them but i have no use for one

Can't comment on the PR4s specifically, but the PR2 and PR3 handled the heat just fine. The only time you'd overheat them was after a lap at a race track. Even then, they just went a little soft and moved around progressively and controlled. And you're really not overheating a Pilot Road with an SV650 in even the quickest road conditions, unless your throttle and brake control is like that of someone having a stroke.

>extra maintenance
>clean chain
>more frequent oil changes/filter/spark plugs/filters/etc.
>maybe blowing out the carbs more often if applicable
Barely any?

If it was carburetted, then old gas, dirty carbs and cold weather would be my pick, but since it's efi ehhhh

Just dump out the old fuel, put some fresh gas in and some sort of cleaning additive in there.

gas is like 7 months old
i think i'll just top it up and see where it goes from there

Yeah never mind the comparison of most road bikes lasting 100,000+km and most dual sports needing 2-8 full engine rebuilds in that same time

Does it come down to engine config? I mean would a smaller parallel twin last longer than a thumper?
>2smoke dirt need not apply

It's really all in how it's designed. A new ptwin from KTM might not last anywhere near as long as the thunper in a DR650

I would have thought the reverse

Well then you could also compare say a crf450 to an fz07, the ptwin would go way longer. Its all up to how highly stressed the engine is

Also, people tend to overlook how bikes are used.

A big cruiser is mostly going to see highway miles at cruising RPM.

A small displacement dirt bike is probably going to be trashed around some trails, at varying RPMS, dropped while running, highway speeds will be near the redline for miles, etc

You can get 50k miles out of a good dual sport engine.

Oh wow thanks for that, i wonder why i stated 2-8 full engine rebuilds...

>100k km
>60k miles
>can get 50k miles out of a good dual sport engine
So one rebuild if any?

Tell me the last time you rode a dualsport for 50k miles with no rebuild

Would a KLX650 be a good choice for a beginner rider? I would probably only use it for shorter tours, riding around mountainous areas (south of germany/austria) and perhaps a bit of off-roading.

Yeah it'd be fine if you can't find a DR650 or XR650R/L

You said it was near impossible on 50/50s
I said it isnt even bad on 70/30s
Kys for your lack of reading comprehension

He's actually retarded cut him some slack

I already told you.
KX100

A fun
A cute

>fun
Howso? They're certainly cute.

>I said it isnt even bad on 70/30s
Not him but it depends on the terrain. If you take 70/30s to a hare scramble you're going to have a bad time.

>the only way to have fun is 200hp super bikes
Kys

Well obviously you dont show up to a dirt race on 70% street tires
That wasnt even part of the discussion
Gtfo moron

I only have a grom, I can see messing around having fun on a kids 80cc, but you can't even do dumb things on a supercub

You can do very dumb things on a cub.
Go watch Ed March ride his around the world

I sell them once they hit ~10-15k honestly, I go through bikes like underwear my dude.

Not even about the race, it's difficult terrain, you don't want to be going up ruts and huge inclines on street tires my dude.

On a hardpacked trail on your retirement check bought adventure bike, they're fine, sure. They're called "trail" tires for a reason though dude. If you think of them as anything else you're a nutjob.

Ok nobike
Ive done super rough shit on dual sport tires.
Its not a big seal with some skill.
Remember its 80% rider, 20% bike

Bro what are you even smoking? 70/30s are on the "adventure tire" side, hardly dual sport tires. As far as 70/30s go, yeah you can technically use shitty tires for hard offroading, and MAYBE you can get through light hill climbs and such, but you're not fooling anyone my dude. Whatever "super rough shit" you did on your 70/30s would have likely been easier on good knobbies. The only reason it was "super rough shit" is likely because of your poor tire choice.

But please, go ahead and make yourself look even more retarded. Even a corolla can go offroading on balded out rubber, but I can assure you that there's better tools for the job.

So youre saying you CAN do it.
But dont use dual sport tires on your dual sport??
Are you retarded?
>the type of tire somehow magically changes the terrain type
Yeah you're retarded

You sound like you rely on your bike to compensate for your lack of skill.
Get gud son

It isn't bad is the terrain you're riding on is easy. I used to have a 80/20 tire on the back of my ADV, and yeah, I could get through most easy terrain no problem. But as soon as you're trying to go up/down hills or through mud and snow, you'll quickly see the limitations. Even trying to go up a slight hill on dry grass would spin the rear wheel and get me stuck. Now I have a 20/80 tire and the difference is massive, I can go through 15 cm deep snow and I still have good grip on the road, only the longetivity suffers a bit, which I don't mind.

Momentum is key

>So youre saying you CAN do it.
I'm saying you're retarded for thinking that because you can do a trail on adventure tires, you can use them for everything offroad. Quit moving the goal posts, I said it depends on the terrain, you said you did "rough shit" on your 70/30s. And no, I put 60/40s on my dual sport because I actually take it off the hiking trail grandpa.
Quit smoking meth, no amount of skill is going to compensate for having no grip.

>tfw there are literal retards on Veeky Forums trying to argue that your tire doesn't matter when accounting for the type of terrain you're riding on

Good luck to you both if you ever encounter mud, sand, a gravel hill, soft soil, etc. etc.

I put on some michelin AC10's on my DR350, since they're supposed to be the best compromise for DOT legal.

They turned out to be a bit underwhelming.

40/60s* pardon me

...

No you haven't, it's obvious by how retarded you sound in this thread. Post bike or gtfo.

> Be american
> Low speed limits
> Harleys everywhere
> Boring roads
> BUY A LITREBIKE KID
> Buy litrebike, crash into tree, die
> Stopped by police because filtering is illegal
> HE'S BLACK SHOOT HIM SHOOT HIM
> Yes officer yes sir please sir don't shoot me
> Here, I'll pay for the widows and orphans fund
> I even have a sticker saying I contributed last year
> Butchered by hells angels for riding a sportsbike
> Run over repeatedly by crossovers texting while driving
> Ambulance shows up, takes your bike as a down payment on the trip
> Doctors run your credit score for financing your treatment
> 'Not good for the money, throw him out on the street.'

This is basically true

I think you might legitimately be retarded if you think some 70/30s, implying 70% street, would be "good" for anything but a trail and some dry soil.

>Ive done super rough shit on dual sport tires.

seething

All these nobikes that have never seen dirt
Wew lordy

>Ive done super rough shit
>Ok nobike
>on dual sport tires.
>Ok nobike
Let's see that super rough shit! Post some pics, we love sharing here!