What can I do to an NA motor to make go fast?

>wasting money

lol

Expensive way to go slow is all NA is.

Reduce weight.
Reduce rotating weight.
Reduce all weight.
Reduce engine drag.

Forged/billet parts my friend

It wont have a good bottom end. Thats why it got stroked up. I drove mine daily, the na 2v until l put a 4.56 gear in it.

The only damage l see happening is a rod bending from the extended length. But just buy a good one.
Beyond that. Detonation can be prevented by getting e85 or 93oct.

I know a guy who daily drove his 347 stroker fox. Until his block cracked. But thats a common problem.

If you can get that thing oiled for the rpms youll be screaming at. Then you should honestly be fine.
You might want to port up the oil bits in your engine and get dedicated oil gauges.

It is very expensive to build an NA car to even try to compete with FI cars. But it is more of an engineering marvel and cooler to me.
Go ahead and try user.

Sounds good to me, I better start planning this thing out.

just like all motors cam intake heads

NA can't compete though.

Yeah the only way NA actually competes is if it has some crazy cubic inch or revs like a spec of dust in a black holes accretion disk just before the schwarzchild radius or something.
Nobody, even with a 600ci big block, thinks a turbo wouldnt be an upgrade.

Its just a lot of guys cant afford the system on top of whatever build theyve already got.
Some guys also prefer the sound and range of a 15:1 compression 8000rpm screamer.
But its true theyre just handicapping themselves.

Always seems like NA costs way more than a forced induction build.

Many drag racers like myself like to start from aftermarket blocks. They have a list of upgrades over factory. But good luck getting one below 1800 bucks.

Put a rotating assembly in it from any size of rods and pistons and youre already the price of a good used sportscar on craigslist.

My fucking heads for my 428cid 351 cost me 2800 bucks. Which l thought was an arm and a fucking leg.

Then l looked at my daily driver stock cobras heads, and they want 4g for a stage 3 port and polish. While thats the price of a turbo kit.
So in my eyes if youre a factory car. You force induce it. Its just easier that way unless its some easily stroked pushrod.

Which is why you buy a roller Foxbody, slicks, a junkyard Vortec, simple rebuild, and eBay turbo kit. Congrats you have a 9 second car.

If that RB30E in the OP is pic related, don't bother. If you're a P plater, the max you should do is an exhaust and get a cam ground to GTS2 (R31) specs and get it tuned. anything beyond that is a waste and i'd even say chasing N/A power in an RB30E is a waste in of itself.

>It is very expensive to build an NA car to even try to compete with FI cars. But it is more of an engineering marvel and cooler to me.
Yup it’s much more of an intricate science, and NA engines usually sound better

>N/A Tuning
- Weight saving on all rotating components
- Combustion chamber & port work
- Cams
- Increase Displacement (Bore/Stroke)
- Increase Compression
- All for minimal power gains

OR
>Turbo
- Add boost
- Make sure pistons/rods won't explode
- Add more boost

Thiiiiiiiiiis.
As you kind of said, the GTS R31s were pretty quick for a six and felt strong (140kW vs the 5L VL @ 122kW), but much metre than that, the head doesn't really flow and the engine doesn't really rev without a heck of a lot of work.
Cheaper to tarbo the 3L or just swap in an RB25.

Can't he swap an RB25DE head onto the block for some decent gains? I've heard of that being done before.

Nah believe me, RB30 N/A Anything is purely a labour of love and not cost effective. RB30 with a twin cam head NA is still pretty limited and way more high strung than an upgraded turbo single cammer rb30. and that's with the garbage SOHC flow

turbo faggots are delusional
>install turbo
>make sure engine breathes well
>spend tons of money on forged internals
>spend a small fortune on a good turbo
>pray there's room under the hood
>spend a month tuning it
>car is now incredibly unreliable
compared to NA tuning
>make sure engine breathes well
>put big cam
>high comp pistons
>done

The only reason to dump money into building an engine is only if you need to do it of you want to make it handle more boost.

What do I do if there is literally 0 aftermarket for my engine?

>make sure engine breathes well
>put big cam
>high comp pistons
>done
>after all is done and thousands of dollars spent your engine makes about 4 or 5 more hp

Meanwhile in turbo land
>spend tons of money on forged internals
Only if you want to go for stupid high horsepower like 500 or if your engine was shit to begin with
>spend a small fortune on a good turbo
Couple hundred tops.

Get a better car.

That's boring.

You can avoid doing half the shit in the turbo list and you'll still get way more hp gains than stroking your engine

So let's say I put in a more aggressive camshaft, new valves, springs and rockers. I will have to also install an aftermarket ECU if I want to see positive results, won't I?

Depending on the car you could at least need a tune. Some smaller cams are fine with stock ECU. Also you should pick a cam last, after you've done everything else and decided on what you want out of the engine.

If you just slap some big cam in there you're likely going to have no torque down low and no power up top since the top end can't keep up.

>How can i improve a NA motor?
>get a better car lol
pic related is you

Everyone knows the real answer is to buy a 903 cubic inch pro mod nitrous motor capable of 1800 hp all motor and over 3000 on bottle.

>minimal
high compression street miatas can often reach >200hp, from stock 140. 60 hp is a good gain

also, FI is ugly solution. you just blow more air into engine like some sort of brute. it doesn't even come near coolness of old school high revving race monster that somehow delivers more than 100hp from litre despite breathing on its own. this is beauty, expanding base concept of engine and perfecting it instead of just brute-forcing.

Yeah, spending 10k to make 200 hp is great. Or spend half of that and have a more streetable engine with more power.

You will definitely need a remap if you install a more aggressive cam.

In terms of things to do in order to make NA power:
1. Catback exhaust
2. Headers/full exhaust
3. Intake
4. Light weight pulleys and electric fan
5. Throttle body (if applicable)
6. Cams
7. Tune (this may be required for the cams or throttle body)
8. Port & Polish
9. Increase compression ratio (heads, block, or pistons)
10. Stroke and Bore

For non pushrod engines, especially 4 cylinder engines, better valve springs means you can often increase your redline. That should be done when a port and polish is done as the head(s) need to come of anyways.

You could do all that, or just slap a supercharger on it and make the same power (or thereabout).

>>after all is done and thousands of dollars spent your engine makes about 4 or 5 more hp
the absolute deluision

He didn't ask how to improve an NA motor, he asked how to do it with no aftermarket support.

He's basically saying good luck with that, pal, you'd be better off buying a car that does have aftermarket if you want to do that shit. Unless you happen to be able to forge pistons in your own garage.

>60hp is a good gain
And you can do more than that with an eBay turbo running something like 5 or 10 psi with minimal to no work on the engine, for way cheaper.

nitrous

>bragging about peak power
NA gets more area under the curve in dyno tests
turbo dyno sheets looks more like bitcoins stock market value

>also, FI is ugly solution.
I agree. There is very little skill involved with adding more boost.
NA tuning is the epitome of engineering, and that's why its expensive as fuck.
If I had the cash I'd build NA screamers for fun, but I don't so I stick with boost.
You can't argue with the price of the power gains with a turbo.

come on now mate, thats just bollocks.
a turbo on a std block will never make less power than the stock engine anywhere.

read what i said

To sum up the entire thread so far for OP:
>More bore
>More stroke (if you don't have too much piston speed)
>More RPM
>More compression
>Better flowing heads
>Bigger valves and matching springs
>Bigger cam
>Matching intake and exhaust type and size to airflow
>Enough injector/carb for the amount fo fuel needed. Throttle body should not be an air restriction.
>Good tune
>A bottom end that will hold up to this abuse
>Smaller bearings
>Reduce internal windage
Aside from the power adder vs. n/a debate, is there any other way to add power to a naturally aspirated engine?

>Weight saving on all rotating components
weight.
>Reduce rotating weight.
Simply science dictates that a lighter rotating assembly will not increase power. More mass just acts as a flywheel and reduces throttle response, but it does not decrease power.

>Weight saving on all rotating components
>Reduce rotating weight.
Simply science dictates that a lighter rotating assembly will not increase power. More mass just acts as a flywheel and reduces throttle response, but it does not decrease power.

Engine swap, or have stuff made. If it's an engine that's even remotely worth something, you can get a lot of parts anyways.

I did, and what you said is total bollocks.

make sure the intake isnt inhaling hot air like i see a lot of retards doing

ok retard

Post these fucking dyno graphs then.
I'll calculate the area under them and then we'll see who the retard is

>more than 100hp from litre
That's cute. You can buy a literbike from the showroom that does double that, and the aftermarket is well above 200hp/l:
youtube.com/watch?v=YRFrFudg7eM

Naturally aspirated engines aren't for hp/$. If you want that, of course go for boost.

The best solution of course, is to build your bottom end like you would a n/a engine, except for pistons and cams. Make sure it goes to very high RPM, where it has plenty exhaust flow to quickly spool your turbo(s), because that makes for both great throttle response, great power, and great sound.

>I'll calculate the area under them
how do you plan on doing that with 60iq

Just post the graphs and we'll see what comes about

cringe

...

...

How hard would it be to convert an RB30E to run on a high nitromethane mix like topfuel cars run?

Flywheel, cams, exhaust, port and polish, shaved head, stroker, forged internals, itbs, tune.

>Cringe
Go back to facebook.

I mean I prefer tuned na engines but if the goal is simply high power gains then turbo is the way to go.

get another one and glue it together