QTDDTOT

go chevron or shell. It may be a few cents more but will be worth the longevity of the engine

just get a touch up pen to keep chips from expanding but otherwise dont stress over it

>a few cents more
I fill up a tank at a time and at 15 gallons I'm saving $5-6 per fillup on my shitbox. That might not be a lot but I'm a poorfag

Their 91 causes knock in my rx8.

90% of gasoline is all the same shit coming from the same refineries, the only difference is additives.

However some stations may have poorly sealed tanks and can have water or other issues crop up.

when you use more electricity in your car, does the alternator physically put more resistance on the engine?
or does the ecu speed up the engine to generate more electricity out of the alternator?

Pretty sure the alternator takes more power otherwise it wouldn't work on my carbie engine

What are some good Eurobeats other than the initial D soundtrack?

This. To add information, pretty much any car sold in the US between 1990 and 1995 or so will have those automatic seatbelts. They were a stopgap method that automakers used to avoid installing airbags in cars (because I guess someone figured that if you forced people to wear seatbelts they wouldn't need them). When the law changed to absolutely require front airbags, they were dropped hard. I remember thinking it was the coolest thing ever as a kid, too, but I drive a car with them now, and they're a massive pain in the ass.

Automatic seatbelts are also especially annoying when you have a passenger. No one is used to them anymore, any for whatever reason, when most people get in a car, they lean forward to set something down, adjust the seat, do something else, and I always feel like I need to warn to warn them before the seatbelt strangles them when I start the car (which, of course, confuses everyone, until the belt starts moving).

The modern alternator is a clever device where it's not the speed that matters but rather the small current put through the little spinny coil in the middle that determines how much of a magnetic field is operating on the big coils wound all around the outside.

So yes if the alternator has to produce more current then it makes the engine have to work harder to spin the alternator, but it doesn't have to spin any faster than some minimum speed for its design.

Where things get a bit interesting is most automotive alternators are not designed to be able to hit full voltage at idle speeds. Poilce cars and other vehicles designed to spend a lot of time idling will often have special alternators or possibly just a different pulley so they can meet electrical needs at idle. But any alternator, once spinning fast enough, can pump out as much current as you want until the coils overheat or the voltage regulator goes up in smoke or whatever else.

Between a mazda3 and a Camry, which is the more reliable commuter car (as an autotragic)

Toyota is the king of appliances. Mazda is for people who want an appliance that doesn't suck their soul out as hard.

will it look ok?
I'm super protective of her right now, and I don't want my car to look like shit
How much am I looking at?

> 50/50 AWD
>taking a corner with no braking or gas input
>on limit of grip
>give it gas
Does it oversteer or understeer?
Why?

It depends on more than power distribution alone. You have to account for suspension geometry and weight distribution, among a host of other environmental factors.

But if you consider that 99% of cars are designed to be naturally understeering because of safety reasons, then your case will most likely result in understeer too.

If we want to take an ideal case where all tires are equally loaded and equally on the verge of losing grip completely, then I'd still say it will understeer because of the weight transfer unloading the front tires and the fact that the front tires have to both push the car and steer it, whereas the back tires only have to push (and "steer" too, although at a greatly reduced rate than the front)

Ah good, guys I need some help. I've got a 1995 Ford Festiva WB and it's not kicking over. Changed the fuel filter and spark plugs. I'm looking for a Hayes or Gregory manual but can't find one

Is it firing?

Yes it's firing. I jolted myself when testing cause I suck.

I mean does it sound like it's almost starting. Like is the engine spluttering and coffing when tuning over?

Engine is definitely turning over. No coughing and spluttering, but it does kinda do that thing from the Monty Python skit where his red car won't start. It seems to try really hard.

OK firing means combustion, not spark. If I were you, I'd squirt some aerostart/generic aerosol engine starter into the throttle while turning it over. If it fires and sounds like it wants to start when you do this, that means you have fuel issues 95% of the time.

By fuel issues would it be the line, relay or the pump? As it's fuel injected I'm not too savvy on how to go about testing it.

I would disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail and cross the fuel pump relay. If fuel comes out, check for injector pulse and fuel pressure. If nothing comes out, check it the fuel pump is getting power.
>No injector pulse means computer problems
>shit pressure means fucked pressure regulator, failing fuel pump or leak in the line.
>if fuel pump gets power but nothing is pumped out, the pump is most likely kill. Test this by removing the pumo and hooking it up directly to 12 volts
>if no power to fuel pump, it could be a immobiliser problems or failing connection somewhere.

Shit pressure could also mean you need a new fuel filter.

Thanks guys, I'm off to have a crack. Hopefully I get it started. GG.

What does Veeky Forums think of these wheels? I'm gonna be in the market for a new set for my Mustang an I wanted to go lighter than stock. Are they a good quality?

tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=wheelCloseUp&wheelMake=Enkei Tuning&wheelModel=Kojin&wheelFinish=Black Painted

Is it normal the only think that keeps me from killing myself is double clutching in my shitbox

2009 Honda Fit, been experiencing some engine stuttering on occasion. Engine light came on today, brought it home and parked it.

Right now I'm thinking it's low compression issues, hopefully due to needing new spark plugs or ignition coils. What else could cause low compression?

Should I buy truck nuts for my Focus SE? I want to get a titanium set and just drag it but I can't find any.

Supposedly the legislation just desribed an "Automatic safety Restraint" or something of that nature hence the Automatic belts

You literally could not get a more tasteless mod. It gives fart cans a run for their money

Can i get glass replacements for my plastic headlights? ive replaced the headlights a few years ago when they looked like shit now they're starting to fade again. Meanwhile my 70s shitbox has shiny headlights that it came off the showroom floor with.

Probably not. You could ask a glazier to make some maybe?
What are truck nuts?
You'll need to get the codes scanned. Guessing is only going to waste your money.
Why do you double clutch?

Bump

Can someone post the sour grapes fox pls?

I have a 98 jaguar xjr and its going to require a chunk of change to get it back into good shape (needs new throttle body, some doors wont open, tint peeling on windows, seats need new upholstery, has a good engine from a newer model 2002 i think, and just need a bunch of cosmetic fixes). If i have the money to put into it is there anything that should really prevent me from doing it? Before the throttle body issue the thing rode like a champ and was by far the most fun car i have ever driven. Would like some outside input on what to do with it. I've already spent around 2 grand on the car and I bought it for a measly 700 dollars.

I'm gonna pick up one of these little bastards. Is there a best ELM327 obd shitfucker or are they all the same?

I currently own a 07 Subaru Impreza. It most likely needs a head gasket change, a water pump change, needs some belts changed, break fluid changed, differential fluid change, and so on. I still owe money on it too.

Normally I think cars that need a bit more money to keep up with maintenance will hold up better. I just think I bought this one at a bad time. It had more than 100k miles, and I don't have a lot of money, yet I bought it anyways. At this point it would cost more than I owe on it to get it all done.

Would it be better to just try to trade it in, sell it off completely, and get some other cheapo car like a Versa than keep this? Before you say I should fix it myself, I can't. I'd love to, but I can't. I don't have the time or money. Not to mention the space to get all the tools I would need. Especially for a headgasket. Any other car, maybe, but not with this Subaru.

Absolute noob here. 2015 Honda Jazz, OEM 185/55R16 tyres on 16x6 wheels; that size is a bitch to find, what sizes can I change to? 205/59R16?

My e-brake only engages when I wiggle it to the side now. How should I fix it? I need it for my remote start to work.

>what are truck nuts
These are truck nuts my good sir

10 years old and something not much over 100k for that kind of a Subaru isn't really that old yet. So the question comes down to how much longer before you start hitting "old car" problems if you do get it all fixed back up. I imagine you'd start hitting inconvenient expensive things within not too many more years. That's a bit of a tough call. If you can't really do your own work then even little things on an older car can start adding up bigly.

If I were you, my next step would be to find out what kind of a deal you could get on a trade-in so you have some idea of the cost of option A vs. option B vs. option C.

Why don't I enjoy my FR-S like I enjoyed my shitbox miata? The car works flawlessly, and it does my 50 mile daily driving without problems, but I've never actually enjoyed driving this car at all. I don't even like how this car looks, yet everyone says it looks great.

I've been contemplating selling it at a lose, and buying an FD. I know fully well buying an FD as a daily is the stupidest thing you can do, yet I'm convincing myself every day to do it.

Any FRS/BRZ owners on here can tell what what the fuck am I doing wrong that I don't even consider my FRS as anything more then a utility?

IMO they spent all the effort on making it fun when you're trying to beat the piss out of it and going sideways. Its pretty uninspiring for tooling around in. I don't think you're doing anything wrong.

>spenk $2k on a $700 car
jaaaaaaaaaaaag

yo could spend the money on it
or you could use it to practice your craft and do it on the cheap
start doing your own work
>needs new throttle body
these are fairly simple to replace
way easier than a carb
just remember to get the proper gaskets
>interior and cosmetic issues
time to learn2fletch
>doors don't work
easy but tedious

they're all counterfeit
real ELM327s are a grip
just get one, they doesn't suck

I've got a randomly specific question. I got stuck in South Dakota without a car (long story) so I bought a beater with a heater. Thing is I need to move it and SD is a "plate with owner" state so it doesn't have any plates on it (and it's Sunday, DMV is closed) I know in some states you can move a car you just bought if you've got the title and bill of sale on you (in SD title functions as Boss) but I can't find anything on if it's legal in SD or not.

How long can I drive my 2010 Saab 9-3 without looking like a poorfag? I'm 28 if it matters

How long can you keep it clean and in good working order?

>Guy in this vid sez having your blower motor on max will increase the amount of voltage the car provides when starting:
youtube.com/watch?v=G_KPwEI-Pes

Is this some bullshit, or does this actually happen?

It currently has 140k miles on it actually. I should have said that. I just mean when I got it, was a couple of years ago, it had like 119k on it.
I can do some small stuff, but I can't exactly fit or store a cherry picker for one thing.

That's starting to get up there. Stuff like diff oil is easy, but I can understand why you wouldn't want to pull the engine out and do the water pump and gaskets (why do you need no gaskets?) and I assume timing belt and everything?

When I did all that stuff on mine, I just slapped together a quick frame out of some scrap lumber and used some ratcheting roof straps to hang the engine off of in conjunction with a couple of spare tire type jacks. But I might be a little more inventive than average.

Made a post about my Z31 about to shit the bed, well it happened. Thing is misfiring like crazy and won't stay running now. Going to replace spark plugs and wires, possible dizzy cap. Fucking damn it have to walk to work now. Fuel pump was replaced at nissan dealer 10 months ago when I bought it so doubt it's that but need some more testing, fucking god damn just needed to it last a few more weeks until I got paid at this new job. Any other ideas of things to check, going to get some starting fluid tomorrow to do a shittest to make sure it's not fuel related. It's rocking all over the place right now when I get it to crank, no knocking noises or anything.

How easy is a compression test while I have the spark plugs out?

Also can turning it over while the assumed bad plugs are in do damage, like I saw this trick where you spray water on the plugs while cranking it and if it arcs it means the wires are junk. They are the stock wires from 1987 so I'm praying they are just dry-rotted and that's the issue. I'm serious though when I get it to finally crank over that thing is wobbling all over the place and I shut it off immediately. Can I tell anything from manually cranking it besides if if piston is seized or something, really don't want my first time removing heads to be on this fat ass v6 with a rats nest of lines on top of it

Okay Veeky Forums what car should i get with $10k. Has to be fun to drive, reliability doesnt matter that much, dont want it too heavy and cant be a car that makes me look like a neet aka a 3k civic.

Is it worth it to drop the money for a magnetizer/demagnetizer for mucking about under the hood? I find I lose a lot of screws and such. If so, what's a good one to get?

my project car has a lot of rust under it. almost everything is rusted some amount. am i better off getting a different car instead of trying to fix this one

Assumingly the common Subaru problem. Blown headgaskets. Losing oil because of it. Timing belt is good actually.

A $10k Civic

I'm guessing your spark timing is off.

Jesus you're dumb. I tried to help you last time but you're just being purposely fucking stupid. Can't help you.

i have a business administration and accounting degree and fucking hate my job and want to get out of the office. is there a way i can use my degree to get ahead in the automotive field?

are there open differentials/LSDs that have spider gears that are the same exact size as the axle gears?
or do all manufacturers make the spider gears smaller?

>best magnetizer
the giant magnet from a broken microwave
>best demagnetizer
time

also consider getting a magnet on a stick
Protip: you will never not drop things

I've had one of these for years and it still works. I use it with torque pro

Has anybody ever used the disc that comes with these? Is there hentai on it or what?

im not retarded or anything, but i think i might be too slow to drive a car, like my decision making process isn't very fast. Anyone else got this problem?

How does the sticker general manage to be even more unrelenting garbage normal Veeky Forums generals and even generals on other boards

IT'S FILLED WITH FURFAGS

>i'm slow
go to /n/ and never return
>anyone else have this problem?
yes, /n/

You mean Ring and Pinion? Because all four of those are considered the spider gears, and yes often all four are the same size.

Depends on what you mean by 'rust' it simply could be surface rust for all we know.

Not usually but sometimes when I'm tired or distracted I can feel when I'm not really "in the zone" and not as alert and responsive as I usually am. Even in that case I figure I'm still no worse than the average soccer mom, distracted teen or other shitty driver. Just adapt your driving style to suit your ability, i.e. drive slower and use an abundance of caution.

That must be a ford diff

>Because all four of those are considered the spider gears, and yes often all four are the same size.
i see
so, they all have the same number of teeth?
i was looking at diffs for an Veeky Forums related project, but i need them all to have the same number of teeth

>tells me to do a compression test
>say i'm going to do a compression test
>calls me stupid

what is the issue here, you just want me to scrap it and pull a 3k civic out of my ass? literally $20 for wires and $30 for iridium plugs big whoop they need to be replaced anyway. The fuck else do you want me to do nigger

Do Brembo pads just always fucking squeak? Ever since I installed a new set on my Genetic Sissy Coupe, I get squeaking when it's cold and when I'm extremely light on them. They have less than 5k miles on them with new rotors. I hate the sound so goddamn much. Put on some experimental balloon rubbing harsh noise instead, jesus christ.

GTFO soyboi

Have you tried shaving the edges a little bit?
I don't mean the ones that face "up" or "down", which should be slanted already, I mean the ones facing the inner and outer circumference of the rotor.
Those edges get round over time on rotors and don't ask me why, but shaving those edges off the pad to accommodate the curve sometimes solves a lot of noise problems.

No, from what you told me last time I determined you had either bad plug wires or your spark timing was off or your distributor is bad. All easy and cheap fixes, and you didn't even try to do anything and now you're back asking for help again.

You could be a loan officer for a dealership and maybe work up to general manager. Otherwise you could apply to work for a mnaufacturer as a pencil sharpener but you probably won't be anywhere near a car.

Yes. The ones I've seen are all equal. They could have 2 gears be bigger and it wouldn't hurt anything but I don't know what the point would be.

I'll take a look at it since nothing else works. I thought cleaning the brake dust was working for a bit, but not really. Don't think I'll be getting these cunts again.

Metallic pads will always make some noise no matter what. You might just go to a different type of pad.
Did you put squeak stop on the back of the pads? Grease the clips and pin?

Big and tall boi looking at getting something to replace my current vehicle, a well loved 2000 F150 xlt that is loaded with at least 2K worth of work, if I'm lucky and can find the replacement parts.

What are some decent, newer, tall guy cars/SUVs? I'm sitting at 6'7 and I'm not picky, but I would like something that won't die on me in the middle of winter, and isn't old enough to fuck in the state of Alabama.

I'm steering strongly away from trucks because I can't afford 30k+ for towing I don't need and gas I'll piss away. I heard good things about the Chevy Equinox and Jeep Patriot, and anything past 2014 is apparently pretty solid, so I'm going to go look at some this week.

It's hard to find any info at all for tall driver vehicles so any advice would greatly be appreciated

I go to a local place where the gas is like 20 cents cheaper. It's great because they don't add anything to it, if you want detergent: add it yourself.

I have an '04 Mini Cooper. warning lights for tire pressure, abs and traction control are constantly on.
It happened 2 days ago, and both systems failed it seems.
I cleaned the abs sensors and put on new disks and pads. tires are 3 months old and pressurized, and checked the fusebox.
Still nothing. The manual says it's a system failure and that I should take it to the dealer.

What sort of damage am I looking at?

A bunch of shitters turned it into a drama-fest, there's a bunch of trap lovers, and it attracts people with bad taste. However, the newer stickers are great and the current vendors are good

Yeah, did the pad change as normal. Just weird that the previous front set was relatively noiseless, but I did get the car at 30k miles. Maybe fucked rotors prevented the noise too. It's really not a godawful squeaking and not present when driving like a spirited cunt, but it's mildly annoying for a DD. I'll be switching for sure off OEM next time, but I better get at least 15k miles out of them for how much they cost.

It's likely an ABS fault, because traction control and (some kinds) of TPMS depend on it and it's usually normal for all the subsystems to stop working when something in the ABS fails.

It could be something as simple as a broken wheel sensor or a tone wheel that lost some teeth, all the way to a fucked control module.
If you can't see anything obviously broken with a quick visual inspection, then it's time to bring the car to someone who has a diagnostic tool to see what the fault codes say. It could really be anything.