/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Well, I bought my first non classic car since I bought one for my ex several years ago. A 16 year old piece of jailbait...

What?

WHY

I have a Duster, I wouldn't consider it the same class of economy car as the others.
I would consider the Aspen/Volaire or Omni/Horizon to be the counterpart.

We all told you to fucking wait and see what pops up and now you have a ruined Dart in your way.

The mechanic who works on my cars was owed money on it and didn't have the means to pay; so, for $1,000.00 I got a 2002 Lincoln Town Car "Congressional Town Sedan."

>$22000
He couldn't have afforded it anyway.

Huh i must have missed a zero in there.
Oh well, is that really worth 22 grand?

The old fuel pump came out with some casualties. The old thread adapter to send to the carb is not going to come out, and I can't find any info on what size the thread adapter is to get a new one. The local auto parts store had no idea either. The new pump is a Carter M6109. Anyone know how thread adapters work?

tfw no MK VII

>The AMC small car is the only small car that is wide, heavy, long, and tall

Mein neger, welcome to the panther club.

is my rusted brat a classic?

Its 22k, im not in the market for that you jack ass. Ive just never seen one of those before.

Yes

Surprisingly Hagerty says it's worth 22k and the interior was in great shape.

>never seen a Starliner
Let me guess you’ve never heard of a Skyliner either

I can do you one better; i test drove one. White, black, and algae, freshly done interior minus a headliner, infested with ants, and we ran out of gas on the test drive. Got scared off cause there was oil pooling on top the intake and puking out the rear main (like in the 5 mins that i had it stopped to look over it, it was waterfalling out and had made a slick the size of the car). On top of that, the owner was extremely sketchy.

Alright, final decision time. I just dropped 300 on a gun, tape, paint, etc. Im considering if i should paint my bumpers or not. Theyre not rusty, but they show their age.

So basically: A...

Or B?

I will have black rims, and only chrome otherwise will be window trim and dog dishes.

Chrome.
Painted bumpers on muscle cars look like ass.

No, it looks silly without the chrome

Why would you chop that...? My god.
Alrighty then, glad i bought extra tape.

>Why would you chop that...? My god.
It wasn't me

the wife is sitting forward so she can bitch at an angle that faces the man

Well obviously its not yours, it was just a general question.

B. Painted bumpers scream poverty, even to the normiest of normie girls.

reposting from the previous thread

any thoughts on this 72 skylark? my buddy wants to sell it to me

it has the buick 350 V8 and a TH350 3-speed trans

would honestly daily it

wew lad didn't even attach the image

...

In my ignorant opinion, go for it if it's cheap, like below $2k cheap. Rust looks pretty bad, if it's rusting thru like that it could be worst then it looks, I'd drive it as is and try to slow down the process with oil and cover up the gray spots. I wouldn't buy it if you're looking for a restoration project.

>K-k-krusty!
I can see there is rust in every fender (not a big deal), the bottom of the door/rockers are rusty, and its missing the interior. How much does your buddy want? If its cheap enough, i say go for it cause it would be a cool beater. Upgrade to a hang ten pedal, and an aerosmith cassette tape and rock it. Itll maybe get 15mpg if you baby it, but dual exhaust will have you revving it everywhere.

Be wary of window rust and leaks.

Unrelated, i finally found a speed shop thatll put in a floor shifter! Unfortunately, the kit is 250 and the labor is 500+

I am rather fond of it already, but I've owned a few dozen panthers.; I'd post pictures, if anyone cares.

I think that dog wants death

looks kinda cool in the roadkill shitpost way
personally I'd swap the turbo 350 for a turbo 400, and see if it has a 10 or 12 bolt rear if you want to start pouring on speed parts

Those aren't rust holes, they're 'lightening holes'.

Get it and drive on some washboard roads; shed more weight.

>I'd post pictures, if anyone cares.
Sure thing my dude.

Sure, why not.

on another note, what ever happened to InternatAnon/ImpalAnon?

I think his sidepipes were so loud they caused a sinkhole in his driveway.

Ok; here it is:

...

put a built 400M in it and go sleeper.

The blue and white one already has a 400 in it; I was planning on building it up, though, and adding a set of lake pipes that can be activated via electric cutouts.

I think it's cool. How much does he want for it?
If there is no damage to the structural components then it would be a great driver.
Posting best buick

WHY

>2500
>barely any body left

mobile.craigslist.org/cto/d/78-c3-corvette-25-anniversary/6496824272.html

RAN WHEN PARKED, I KNOW WHAT I GOT.

That gremlin was sooo awesome. You could burn rubber all day with that straight 6 and light weight

Sure I'd love pics. Everybody told me to fuck off when I bought mine though.

I'll take a few better ones tomorrow; the mechanic is finishing it up in the morning. Technically, I got the car for $500.00 and agreed to take over the bill.

i want to fuck that mark v

It's one of my favorite cars of all time. I love how the colors of it match my Rolls Royce, too.

For a personal luxury coupe, there was no better car in the US in 1977 through 1979 than the Mark V.

My ex hated the last one I had, so when she was out of the picture, I bought another. It's one of the only cars I loose my ability to think rationally over.

So is the Town Car big or is the Mark V actually that small?

Lincoln Town Car
>215.3" long
>78.2" wide

Lincoln Mark V
>230.3" long
>79.7" wide

>i6 fr stick hatchback
hol up u sayin my mom had a drivers car in high school?

Lincoln Town Car
>215.3" long
>78.2" wide
>4,121 (at most) lbs.

Lincoln Mark V
>230.3" long
>79.7" wide
>4,960 (at most) lbs.

Hmm. Let's compare this to something I'm familiar with, and is a bit more common: An early '90s standard cab F-150 with an 8' bed.

Lincoln Town Car
>215.3" long
>78.2" wide
>4,121 (at most) lbs.

Lincoln Mark V
>230.3" long
>79.7" wide
>4,960 (at most) lbs.

Ford F-150
>213.3' long
>79" wide
>~4200-ish lbs

Holy shit. Them cars are huge.

>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.

Anybody have experience with first gen Tauruses? I need a new beater, totalled my impala on sunday

If you REALLY want to get interesting; traditionally, the Honda Civic is the best-selling car in the US.

2018 Honda Civic
>177" standard length; 183 ricer package length
>71 wide
>2,739 to 3,010 (at most) lbs

Let's use the smallest Honda options and largest Lincoln (which means you got the sunroof and leather; both common additions) for sheer fun:

The Civic is 53.3" shorter, 8.7" narrower, and 2,167 lbs lighter than the Mark V and 38.3" shorter, 7.2" narrower, and 1,382 lbs lighter than the Town Car.

This is what people don't get about these cars; if you compare a Mark V to a Civic, it's almost twice as much car. Even the largest Civic engine; a 2.0 litre, is dwarfed by the 6.6 in the Mark V and that was the small engine after the 7.5L was discontinued in 1978. The Civic will never be able to come close to the presence that these barges have on the road and the respect they command, even when worn and faded, due to their sheer stature.

The difference means that the Civic is 23% shorter, 11% narrower, and 48% lighter.

These massive barges are such a uniquely American example that is fading from public knowledge and will only become more impressive as cars become smaller and more disposable.

Don't kid yourself, they're gutless and bland.

AMC cars were built in Wisconsin REEEEEEEEEE

So, I thought about what some guys in the last thread said, and maybe a full drivetrain swap on the prospective Cutlass wouldn't be the only option. A 350/400 Olds with the TH350 could be fun with a classic style floor shifter. I just feel dumb selling my Plymouth with great paint that runs and drives excellent for something that looks like it hasn't left the block in 15 years. But I can't find interior panels fucking anywhere, and for repairing small shit like the AC controls it's going to take ages to source parts. A lot more Cutlasses came off the line than C-body mopars, so maybe I'd have more luck with one.

>getting a shop to change your shifter
lad, just watch an instructional video

>16 year old piece of jailbait
I thought you were referring to you ex at first, kek. Man, I would like to hang out, but apparently I am still recovering from this stomach ulcer, I felt like shit these past two days. I was supposed to go back to Waco tmr and actually earn some money but I don't think I'm up to it.

Also, holy fuck, why is 3M tint so expensive?

I know this is a long shot, but is anyone here near Viborg, SD? I just found a Fury for $700 that appears to have most interior panels intact, and I'll fucking take what I can get. I know most buyers won't deal with shippers so if someone could pick it up for me, I could probably arrange shipment to TX. I have a little cash left over from my last (read: only real) contract.

Do you dudes consider a car from 1987 to be a classic? I'm having an issue with the overdrive in my car and wanted to know if any of you dudes had any ideas as to what could be causing it.

Volvo 122s are a soft spot for me, classic car wise. My dad owned a 196-something wagon when I was a kid (born in 96). Baby blue paint, black leather seats, not in the greatest condition but the thing was a fucking tank. It lasted 10+ years for a car most people would have taken to a scrapyard years before my dad got his hands on it.

Anyone else on Veeky Forums have memories, fond or otherwise, of these guys? How affordable are they these days? Are they only going to get more expensive as fags in Portland buy them up and put bike racks on them or whatever?

Haven't contributed much OC in a while, here's a recent pic of my truck interior. Most satisfying project I've had, the AC and stereo/sub installs are pretty clean if I may say so myself.

Definitely, what car

Old pic doesn't show the new lace-up sportgrip I put on (poor man's power steering). Wired up sub, AC, LED running lights etc to this acc relay. Only aesthetic thing left to do to the cab is replace the ugly Sun tach with the one in the collage. And the stereo is an AM/FM/CB I got from eBay. But in the process of trying to repair one of the channels I might have fucked the CB bit. Still, looks good with the knob I found by chance and the home made backplate.

So rather than fixing small things youd rather start over with a major project? Its all those minor things that drive me crazy. I had so much trouble finding lock parts for my impala, and that was a super common car.

I probably will do it myself, but i figured if it was just a hundred or 2 for someone else to do it and adjust (which is the bitch part), id rather not have that headache. But for 500 in labor, ill do it myself.

Prices are going up quickly, get a nice one while you can.

That's how u know it's slow car. My wife generally is planted in her all the way back in her seat clutching my leg for dear life or clawing the air for the non existent oh shit handle kek

I LOVE the skylarks i almost got a 72 myself and did an entire drivetrain swap with my current setup to a skylark and then scrap the camaro. 72 is smog exempt here so it would mean real long tube headers not parasitic AIR system, no egr and all that. Ended up not doing it because camaro interior is too nice and didn't wanna go through the trouble of trying to sell a rolling chassis 2nd second gen. Let's be honest there's no demand for second gen f bodies

the interior is actually fine, just dirty. he wants 3k obo, I would offer $2500

thicc

Oh, well thats good. Looked like it was missing at least the passenger door panel from a previous pic.

If it runs good, and you trust your friend, 2500 wouldnt be a bad price i suppose. Ill admit im a little jealous of it.

Would it be stupid to try and make a ‘81 civic my daily driver? It has new brakes, suspension, fuel pump, starter, alternator, and axles.122k miles and its original engine and transmission. 1.5l 4 cyl 5 speed.

>childhood dream is to bring a pre-emissions C3 vette into bongland and drive it every day
Is this an achievable dream, /CCG/?

Prolly not in bongland.

What pre-1995 cars would you guys consider safe compared to modern standards (if any)

Maybe anything built in 94? Any true classic is a death trap.

>Posts second gen
Sucks to live on a rainy socialist island.

>fixing
Nah, more like finding. I can't print or cast these tiny plastic parts myself, and you can't buy them at retail either. As I posted above the nearest '68 Fury that would make a half decent interior donor is located in SD. Shipping alone would be $800. Just trying to level headed about what I can realistically accomplish with each vehicle, especially financially. Aftermarket support is much better for GM, when everything is 20% cheaper and 50% more proliferated, you can get a lot more done. The Fury is pretty sound mechanically as well so I've not actually done anything to it besides change the windshield, because I haven't found the parts to change anything else.

Depending on the shifter, it may be very easy or very difficult to install while the trans is in the car. IIRC you have access to a lift though so it should not be that bad. But if your Dart has the A903 3 speed, nobody makes a very good floor shift conversion

Ya... a903 sadly.

Whats /ccg/'s take on wheel adapters? Small bolt mopar is terrible for finding rims, especially 2nd hand. If i went from 5x4 to 5x4.5, i could have chrome rims with out spending close to a grand.

Idk if spidertrax makes a 5x4 adapter but having had a jeep before those are the only spacers I'll use. The other brands are China crap with no accountability, if your adapter shears off at 80mph on the freeway and you lose a limb or two it's not like you can sue Lao Sheng in Taiwan, so I don't trust the build quality

Installed a coolant tank on a reliant robin today. It's just a minibike fuel tank but I'm quite happy with how it fits in the engine bay

MGBs were the first car engineered with crumple zones. Classics don't really do well in high-speed collisions so I wouldn't expect any-thing to be truly "safe"

On the camaro, i had a wheel sheer off. I made it from Pensacola to Mobile, and then work the next morning with 1 stud. I was amazed. It was the actual mounts that broke, not the spacers.

To the user who's been giving me gear setup advice: how important is it for the pinion bearing preload to be exact? I've got my old shims to measure and go from there, and I'm going to be torqueing down the pinion nut. I have an inch pound torque wrench that goes down to 20 inch pounds, which is the maximum torque for the bearing preload. I really don't want to shell $200 for a one time use dial wrench. As long as I set my wrench to 21 inch pounds and it doesn't click when turning the pinion, will that be sufficient?

i would consider it to be somewhere between those two/four.
>aspen/volare > gremlin > omni/horizon

I forgot to post this earlier, but i had to take the dart in to a new shop. Turns out the wiring that i thought i fixed didnt work. Bad news, i got a "new wiring harness" that was Bubbafied by being direct wiring. Good news is he labled EVERY wire and even made up a wiring diagram. So at least now if anything goes wrong, itll be easy to track down.

I have also been remembering my dart through shit-tinted goggles; the body work that i was planning to do is a lot less that it actually is, and the dent isnt nearly as bad as i thought.

>direct wiring
No fuses? Or is it "banjo-strung" with no service loop? Or both?

>Definitely, what car
A 1987 Mitsubishi Starion (or Chrysler Conquest, depending on who you ask).

I don't think I've ever seen one of those in person.
>tfw seen loads of Z31s, MR2s, Fieros, etc. but no Starion.

Feels kinda bad, man.

Idk what banjo strung is, but he put fuses in them

Yeah dude, they're a little rare. I got mine from a paint and bodywork shop in Oklahoma. o:

But, my OD isn't working. Like I'll hit 3,000 RPM at 60 MPH or so and it wont shift into overdrive. The other gears just fine but OD wont engage. I'll tested the OD relay and that seems to be fine and I've checked my fuses and nothing seems out of the normal. I have messed around with the overdrive switch before on the shifter but the switch itself is working fine according to a test I tried that the Starion service manual recommended.

Do any of you dudes know where I should look next? It worked fine a little bit ago and just stopped engaging for some reason.