Alright boyos

alright boyos
My 2001 Mustang V6 will crank but won’t fire
My old man said he tried to start it when it was warmer out (27 degrees out) and he tried and it cranked fired a little then stalled out.
Everyone’s telling me everything from TPS sensors to IAC to ECT sensors and fuel pumps.
I’m gonna give you guys a full detail of what’s happened so far
>drive to work
>snows gets to be -15 outside
>get in car
>fuels almost empty (hovering above the Redline on my fuel gauge)
>drive to gas station approx 1/2 mile away
>get there
>turn car off
>decide I’ll fill tomorrow when it’s warmer out
>turn car
>cranks
>cranks
>cranks
>”okay I’m out of gas”
(This is where the problem started before this started without fail every time.)
>get out fill up car
>get back in
>cranks
>cranks
>cranks
>leave car in gas station
>go to the Wally World nearby
>get HEET and starter fluid
>shoot starter fluid in
>starts and stays going
>no misfires
>no cel
>go park in heated garage
>starts up the next morning
>go to work
>bring fluid with me
>cranks
>shoots fluid
>starts
>drive it home put it in storage tent
>tried to start it this morning
>fired a little bit but died in the span of 1/2 a second

I know it’s probably my pump but do pumps usually do this?
I thought they just shit out and instantly break not give low fuel pressure then break after a while.
>specs
Changed spark plugs
Cleaned MAF
Changed fuel filter
No CEL on

Any ideas lads? I’m sure it’s the pump but Incase it isn’t I’m preparing for the worst

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no codes when you pulled them?
would it be possible to go full ghetto and take a fuel line off and crank it to see if you're getting any flow?

I certainly could disconnect it at the fuel filter

if you've tried everything else, get something to catch the gas and do that. keep in mind there will be some residual fuel in the line that just stays there, but you're looking for nice consistent pressure, not gravity

What happens if there’s low pressure?
What happens if pressure is perfect?

if you have low, erectile dysfunction tier pressure then you're probably gonna have to do a pump swap.
if the pressure is good, replace fuel filter, try again.
if that doesn't help, it's probably ignition.
after that your computer may just be fucked

if you keep running around on the fuel light you that isnt good for it right?

could have sucked up some sediment from the bottom of the tank. the fuel is supposed to cool the pump and the filter is to take the crap out of the fuel.

do you smell gas when you crank? were the plugs wet when you pulled them?

Engines need fuel air and spark to work. Airs a given so the first to check is spark. pull a plug then plug it into the wire, lay it against something metal on the car and see if you get a spark when cranking.

It’s EFI I wouldn’t smell anything
I’m aware I was just in a rush to get to work and I fucked up
I replaced the plugs last summer

if you are getting spark, air, and fuel (in all cylinders), plus you have optimal compression

then the only thing preventing starting, considering that the motor turns over and there are no security issues (chipped key) , would be a sensor probably Crank position sensor

yeah you replaced the plugs, but did you verify that the ignition coil is firing on all 6 cyls?
when you turn the ignition to on can you hear the fuel pump prime?
fuel psi?
fuel filter clogged?
compression test numbers?

This is all explained in the OP and I don’t know what the fuel pump priming sounds like so idk
Crank position sensor huh. Is that inside the engine?

OP, your issue is so easy to solve. Your damn engine is missing 2 cylinders

allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/306648-crankshaft-position-sensor-problem-2.html

its not inside the engine, and its cheap

also a bad engine coolant sensor CAN make a car hard to start when its cold

maybe his thermostat shit the bed, that could account for some of the issue

test the pump dummy

how? a failed thermostat generally results in dis regulation of engine temperature management.

a Failed thermostat would have no effect on starting your car, if its failed in the closed position itll block flow from head to radiator (overheating) and if failed open the engine will never enter a closed loop and will continue to inject more fuel to "heat up" the engine and eventually cause catalytic converter failure


A failed ECT on the other hand, modern cars ecus generally enter a failsafe where they assume that the engine is hot, this causes the rad fan to permanently stay on and causes very hard starting in cold because the ecu doesnt know the the cold engine needs more fuel to start

Everything in the OP points to a fueling issue though.

Running the tank dry can cause issues. First thing that can happen is you can suck up sediment from the bottom of the tank as mentioned before ITT, but you said you've replaced the fuel filter, so that shouldn't be a problem. Next thing that can happen is you can overheat your fuel pump. Fuel pumps are meant to have fuel pumping through them and they rely on this to stay cool. Running it dry could have fried the thing.

You know that short whine or whirr you hear when you turn the key to run before starting up? That's the pump priming.

This whole fucking thread makes me proud to have given up on efi cars.

After my 03 cobra and all the stupid fucking check engine lights and codes.
Im glad l gave up and got a 351 sbf put in my dads 68 cougar he gave me.

carb tuning can be enough of a bitch to make you want the computer sometimes, though

Ive got a wideband on mid pipes so l aint crying too much. I run a lil rich but its better than what l was doing when l cut down the stock heads too far and was detonating on 91 in the middle of august.

I know.

I’ve replaced the filter last summer I haven’t replaced it now

Also I hear something whining but it’s in the front of the engine atleast it sounds that way

I’m going to tomorrow I just want some bases to cover if fuel pressure is where it needs to be.

imagine actually being this retarded