Hi anons, I am looking to buy a used car in Germany. I have looked at the sticky, but it is US-centric.
My priorities: - CHEAP - Safe - Reliable - Able to last the next 3-5 years
I will only be driving it on flat, well-maintained, paved roads in Germany. Maybe once a year in the alps, but not necesarily.
I do not care if it does not look sexy, or if I have to get my hands dirty. I just want something that can take me 40 km every day to my workplace (20 there, 20 back), and maybe once ever 2-3 months a long 400 km trek.
I can imagine this leads to japanese/korean autos. However I suppose german manufacturers can be attractive. Any Germanbros have any opinion?
BTW, I forgot to mention that I do not care for heated sets, LCD screens or any of that bullshit.
I drive stick too.
Easton Long
How cheap is "CHEAP"? Because if you're looking to spend as little as possible, period, then a sub-1k Twingo is unironically one of the better options.
James Brooks
>>>krautchan/f/
Adam Roberts
Bro, I personally do not care. Maybe my gf will balk, but whatever.
Is there a website you would recommend to check used cars (in Germany)?
Do you have any tips when checking one out?
I am a total noob when it comes to this, and have more experience in other countries than in Germany, so please do not spare any tip or detail. Treat me as your 17 yo nephew coming to you for advice.
Ayden Jenkins
Forgot to mention that I hate the french, but if buying french is what it takes, I will bite the bullet.
Gabriel Jones
Opel Corsa B >dirt cheap >cheap insurance >good gas mileage >every parts costs literally 12€ >massive used parts market
just don't get the smallest engine, should be a 1.4 shifter smaller engines are a little too stressed even with the small car
asian cars have relativly expensive parts, would not recommend that, stay domestic, don't fall for the twingo meme, they are shit to work on and new parts are quite expensive
Ian Howard
Mobile.de is your best bet. Tons of them on there for next to nothing.
If you're gonna go the Twingo route, sub-€500 will probably need some repair that's not worth it to the previous owner or it didn't get through TÜV. Around €500 will get you an older high-mileage runner. €750-€1k is common for one that's (relatively) loaded, AC, 75hp 16V engine, sunroof, power windows/mirrors, all that fun stuff. Parts cost absolutely fuck all and they're really simple cars, so there isn't much to break. Make sure the rocker panels are rust-free, those usually rot out first. 2000 and up are slightly safer, with airbags coming standard as well as slight structural improvements.
As for other recommendations, shit like a mk3 or mk4 Golf, Polo or Opel Astra/Corsa (see ) are good choices too, provided you pick the right engine.
Asher Torres
www.mobile.de
Hunter Lewis
>I will only be driving it on flat, well-maintained, paved roads in Germany so basically nowhere in germany? LMAO DUDE!!!!
Nolan Green
We live in Bayern. So I guess you are right, nowhere in Germany
Thanks for the answers, will check it out.
What is the "right" engine?
Brayden Davis
You can get an older Mercedes-Benz for peanuts. Something like Mercedes-Benz C 250 TD or E 290 TD and so on. If properly maintained they will go on for figuratively forever and be actually nice to drive.
Carter Diaz
>das gute alte Bayern ist nicht DE meme tatsache, ihr seid noch beschissener lmao!!!
Isaac Lewis
Is there a kilometer value that I should avoid? I am seeing a lot of cars between 150K and 200K km.
100K km in Germany should be lighter than 80K in the states, right?
That train departed a couple years ago and it's a fucking meme by now. Even the "newest" are getting close to the 30 years mark by now and they were MASSIVELY fucked towards the end by biodegradable faggotry that may set your car ablaze at night because the cable tree insulation fails. Also pretty much EVERY rubber part fails by now and have fun replacing all the vacuum tubes. Also, RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST RUST FUCKING EVERYWHERE.
This is NOT a car for noobs.
Nathaniel Young
Well maintained Mercedes 5- or 6-cylinder diesel should be good for atleast 750K km. Look for the least electrical features and rust free body. I live in Finland and here 500K km in a well maintained Mercedes is not considered a problem. My current car is a C 220 CDI with 250K km and it is considered a low mileage(kilometriage???) vehicle. 2 years ago a coworker of mine sold his E 200 D at 720K km with only minor surface rust and it was still in everyday commuter use.
As with every car the key is how well kept it is.
pic. 4.8 MILLION kilometer Mercedes from Greece.
Luis Mitchell
>people think you could just go out and buy an old ass merc in germany
are yall stupid?
Angel Gomez
60s beetle
Dylan Johnson
Depends a lot on maintenance, but most cars should be able to hit well over 200k without major issues.
100k km is about 60k miles, for comparison.
Daniel Perry
Realistically how much should you be earning if you want to afford a 30 year old car? The taxes/fuel costs/maintenance? Driving it every day in city traffic? What are the monthly costs? Anyone got any experiences or estimates?
Anthony Turner
autoampel.de to compare insurance cost KH 10 is the cheapest to insure
David Sullivan
>Saupreiß werd scho wieda frech REEEEEE
Xavier Nguyen
too many fucking variables. some rule of thumb shit: >expect 2k of repair costs per year (doesn't have to be that much but it's not unusual for a car this old) >always have enough emergency money at your disposal (at least 2k you can pump in if shit hits the fan) >in germany you can register a 30 years old car as classic car and that means around 200euros per year in car taxes (instead of over 1000 for an old diesel without cat for example) >10L/100km (combined) was common in gas consumption back then for a 2L midsize sedan so that's quite a lot compared to modern cars so you will have a hard time daily driving this (especially because 15 to 16L city cycle was common). even a fucking W202 C180 from 1994 will consume around 10L realistically. >insurance also varies a ton. a 535i BMW will still be expensive
overall, to drive an old car that is not a polo sized hatch or golf at max you should at least earn 3000 a month or 4000 if you also have to pay your rent.
if you're piss poor I recommend an old polo or golf mk4 at most. big sedans will ruin you, they simply WILL.
Luis Jenkins
>>in germany you can register a 30 years old car as classic car
They can be extremely anal about if your car complies to the rules. It has to be pretty much ORIGINAL. A buddy of mine wouldn't get it registered as classic until he got rid of an aftermarket spoiler the car received in the early 90s.
Jose Sanders
>tfw my 81' E21 318i uses 9L/100km on average
Luis Nguyen
Yeah and that's pretty efficient even for a 1981 car. For example an Opel Record with that engine size would EASILY sip 14 liters.
Joseph White
It goes up to ~14 when im driving in the twisties and lots of hills, My LS1 car uses like 13L/100km driving the same roads lmao It could be better if I got rid of the K-jetronic mechanical injection and retrofitted the EFI
Jordan Anderson
Also, forget about getting any old diesel in Germoney.
>diesel has to have the green eco zone sticker which means >your diesel has to have a cat AND particle filter >getting a cat is a 2 to 3k job >getting a particle filter costs around the same, sometimes even more >particle filters MASSIVELY choke the engine >a Mercedes W124 200D with 75hp becomes a 55hp diesel >acceleration goes from 19s to 100 to 30s to 100 like it was the case with the W115 200D meaning it is DANGEROUSLY slow
As far as I know classic cars (over 30) are exempt from those rules and are allowed to spit coal (at least as much as it was stock) BUT they keep working on that rule and it is likely that they will try to ban old diesels from the road completely, no matter what. Also, expect crazy treehuggers to angrily key your car if they see you with your "dirty ecologically disastrous shitpile". A friend of mine had this happen to him and I got into two "arguments" with VERY vocal rasta locks treehugger ladies because of my 300D (that has a cat and particle filter)
Eli Gonzalez
>It could be better if I got rid of the K-jetronic mechanical injection and retrofitted the EFI Cool idea
