Honda Hell

Depending on how I handle this, I have a long list of issues to resolve so I made a separate thread.

I've got a '98 Accord that wasn't well maintained but did get serviced from time to time until it came into my hands. Since then I've been using a Haynes manual to do my own repairs, because I am not wealthy.

Attached is a photo of the engine bay. MAIN POINT OF THE THREAD: Either I scrap this thing, or try to patch it up and resell it. Would like second opinion from anyone who sees this and has advice for what to do with this thing.

For the rest of the thread, I'm going to give the full rundown on this car and also be posting pictures.

So.. what's wrong with it?

If it runs, drives, and stops without any serious problems, you sell it.

So off the top, a small list of things I have done from most to least recent.
Topped off/partially replaced brake fluid and power steering fluid. Replaced the alternator. Replaced the battery. Replaced the air intake leading to the throttle body. Rethreaded all five engine head threads for the valve cover bolts. Replaced plug wires and spark plugs. Replaced metal gaskets for the fuel rail (the one that uses a banjo bolt). Replaced the head gasket as well as all the other relevant gaskets for that sort of operation. Cleaned out the IACV. Replaced the gasket for and cleaned out the intake plenum. The list goes on for other minor details like that.

Right so here's the rundown of problems right now.

There's a scraping sound that slows down as I come to a stop. I assume it's in sync with the wheels slowing down.
A constant/rapid wobbling noise whenever I turn the steering wheel halfway to the left. Never to the right.
I believe the front left axle boot is torn. In previous post's pic that's relevant is that since I replaced the alternator, there is a squeak or squeal that it produces on cold starts, and stops once the car warms up. Worth noting that a lot of the scraping and wobbling sounds I mentioned earlier also go away once the car has been driven around for a bit. These problems are all at their peak when I first start up and drive the car out in the morning.

In the OP I have the exhaust cover removed because I have yet to remove a snapped off bolt stuck inside the bottom right hole on the exhaust manifold. Not sure how big of a deal that is or not. Also worth noting, the metal piece that connects the bottom of the manifold to the side of the engine block broke off. It basically just sits against the engine.

In pic related, I would like to know what kind of clips these are/how to get them off, because I would like to replace my cables but can't get em off because of these strange green clips.

Other things worth noting is that to get the timing cover off the side, I had to break part of it off on the left side of the cover. In pic related is the back right side of the engine block, featuring the right side of the timing cover which also isn't on there correctly, because there are two different gaps in the plastic where I assume oil is splashing out. My oil leak is in this picture where a very tiny amount of oil very slowly pools up from what I assume splashes out of the gap in the cover. The part of the cover I tore through is definitely just stained in oil. I assume this is probably something I should just bite the bullet and buy a replacement cover. I don't think I screwed up the head gasket job because I was real thorough, but I guess the gasket leaking from back there is a possibility?

I do get milky buildup on the engine cap, but I figured that could just be moisture building up in the engine because of the gaps in the plastic covers, and because it's been really humid/rainy here lately, and I always drive the car on extremely short and regular trips, so it's under pretty extreme driving conditions, in that sense.

Finally, the icing on the cake is that the machine shop I got my block resurfaced at basically stole my valve cover and gave me this fucked up one that I guess has some shitty peeling paint job on it, which could look suspicious to anyone that might be interested in buying the car. Under no circumstance would I risk telling anyone I did any repairs myself considering I am a complete and total novice and layperson. Also pic related, a symmetrical crack in the front glass that cracked on its own during a particularly cold day.

Also, the radiator is some aftermarket shit the previous owner put in for reasons unknown, so I'm not sure what to say about that. Also this car has a recurring problem with the sensor for the catalytic converter firing off false signals and throwing up permanent check engine lights P0420, but my state doesn't have emissions regulations, and in the last few months I haven't had any engine lights come up.

Long story short, I've got a grip of problems, and I'm not sure what to do with this car. It's basically on its way out. I have poured a tremendous amount of time and money into repairing it on dozens of occasions where it's broken down. I don't know how much more money or work it would take to get this car operational, but I think I need to let go of this car and get a used car that was well maintained, perhaps in the 1-3k range I suppose. The cheaper the better.

But the question is, is this too much trouble to do anything about? Do I scrap it? Should I list it on craigslist as a parts car? Do I try to rip someone and just tell 'em "yeah it drives" and see who bites? It seems like my car has too many ghettorigged qualities about it that even the most uninitiated would be suspicious and would turn away from a car like this... I would like to hear any thoughts and answer any questions concerning the car.

It has 180,000 miles on it.

Yeah. I'd part it out at this time.

Veeky Forums- not your mechanic

>engine is almost the same size as the battery

lmfao how GAY

The scraping sound is a wheel bearing.

Milky cap usually means a bad head gasket, maybe a shitty machining job since you said stole your VC anyway.

At this rate the car is a never ending pile of problems, radiator and HG replacement means it's been overheated and it's continuing to give you problems. Also, did you have the block deck resurfaced?

"My mechanic" for the past few years has been me, because everywhere else is either a dealership or Express Oil Changes where the boys there don't take too kindly to "DIYers." I appreciate any input I can get.

Only the engine head was badly warped. When I measured the deck, it was well within spec. Radiator has been aftermarket for well over a decade though. Probably the most mismanaged part of the car, featuring using pure coolant as well as pure water. The inside of the system is pretty well rusted out. Once it came into my hands I flushed it out thoroughly and have been maintaining it fine since.

>There's a scraping sound that slows down as I come to a stop.

this one I can help with, its your rear drums being out of line. open them up and click the star wheel till they are in line

It could also be a the parking brake. Either way it's the same area.

Ive got my grandparents 1996 honda accord ex. Interior is super clean. Rust coming on both rear wheels hard after this winter. THey did all Honda routine maintenance at a dealership. Ive had it about 5 years. Abs doesnt work but not spending that money on a module. Replaced a starter, some dinky sensor, and a couple axles. It got submerged in water up to the bottom of the front seat. Dried it out for a month and it killed the SRS so probably no airbags and no power driver seat but I dont care. It runs like a champ and Ill drive it til it dies. Speedo doesnt work most of the time either. Probably has about 175k miles.

Cool, I can check on that pretty easily it seems.

So just judging by some of the other research I've done on some of this stuff, it's looking like I'm probably just going to drive this thing to its death, then scrap it? I don't think this car is remotely salvageable for resale. Could I get more money selling it as a parts car? Any input on this?

you'll get more money if you sell it versus scrapping it... just be honest when selling it, that it needs work.

Do these details sound like hell to you or has it been worse? What would I even price it as? I haven't heard a quote from any scrapyards, but I thought they pay out by weight? So maybe like 300-400 dollars for it?

With current scrap prices you probably won't get but a little over $250.

I'd just sell at is a $300-500 shitbox needing TLC. Or suck it up and buy a $500 used complete assembly engine.

Gonna bump this up for good measure one more time before I get rid of it. Any more opinions on scrapping/selling or how to sell it would be much appreciated.

Parting is different from scraping. There are enough of those Accords left that you can probably sell shit on eBay. Remove what you think you can sell and then scrap it.

>my state doesn't have emissions regulations
Drive it into the ground, then part it out where it lies.

>Milky cap usually means a bad head gasket, maybe a shitty machining job since you said stole your VC anyway.
I say wait for a leak down test to see if it's a hg. Milky oil filler cap is usually because of short drives and sitting

I stripped a car before, it was super easy and i actually got quite alot of money id say strip it