/mg/ - Miata General

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I have a master cylinder brace, it helps. I still have rubber lines so it still doesn't feel like it should.

I have one and I never drive it

Post your local Craigslist

/mg/ I got a question:

Would it be possible to engine swap the 2.0L NC engine, into a NA model?

PPF and everything is the other way around on the NC engine, so it would be kinda complicated I guess
The NB 1.9 VVT is pretty straightforward, bunch of OEM parts from different years are required, just google it

Get a mr2 user

Windshield washer jets won't spray. Should I fix it or remove when it gets warmer?

fix it you derp

Welp time to get an amp meter

I'm an ausfag, the nearest one is 400km away.

Got a no-start on my 2003
it'll turn the starter just fine but it dun fire

what are some diagnostic tests to tell if it's a fuel issue, coil pack(s), or a cam angle sensor (CAS)?

this, i own na with 1.8 engine from british nb, with custom exhaust and k&n separated filter it has about 160km at wheels

Last 2 Miatas I went to check were being sold or already sold by the time I got there.
Last time I went I saw the title being signed over to 2 beans. Please give me luck for the next one I check out

its time to go mid-engine user

No mr2s in the area my famalam

connect it to a tester

Hit the (cas) with a a rubber mallet while it's running if it dies then it's shorting internally.

good luck familia

it's a no start, hence not running, hence can't do that

M-Edition fag here. Is the lifter tick normality a meme or is it actually normal and harmless like everyone says?

What's a good price for a Miata used. I am finding used mk1's with 100k miles for 3 grand or more. Is that too expensive or is it a good price?

Mine started doing the same on cold mornings although this is my first winter with it, scared the fuck outta me the first time I heard it seems to stop after about 5 mins of the engine running should i be alarmed at all?

use 10w60 to get rid of it

Try AutoRX
Or put some atf in and drive it for a few mins then change the oil

There are much better swap options out there

Can anyone identify this lever on my NA? I know what the lights and wipers do but this third one with electrical tape puzzles me.

Anything's possible if you have the dough, but at that point you'd be better off with something else. If you're spending that much money on custom brackets you might as well buy off the shelf ones from flying miata and swap in an LS.

>Mk1

Call it NA, NB, NC, or ND

If you’re poor, just get a NB. It is the best value imo. If you have the cash, you can expect to pay anywhere from a $3k-$5k for a non rust bucket NA with less than 100k miles. Take your time to find the perfect deal. Some things to look for:

1. Try to get one that has been repainted. It really does make it look nice and it’s a cost that doesn’t add to the value so you as the second hand buyer get to reap the benefit.

2. Find one with a hard top included; you’ll save a lot of money. Even if it’s shitty with paint chips, no headliner, no defrost, etc... it still delivers like 85% of the hardtop experience for $500 instead of $1100

That car is disgusting what the hell man.

Anyway I've never seen that before, looks possibly installed by a previous owner.

Does NB miatas have little difference compared to the NA mechanically? Do NB's drive the same as NA's?

I heard that the car fundamentally changed in the NC generation (pigfat).

Might be cruise control. Check your throttle cable for something that looks like it could hold it in place.

same car!

10w-40 cured my lifter tick for about 2000 miles then started to tick when hot. used rotella t6 5w-40 on next oil change and now it only ticks a little when cold.

Sorry man, I'm trying to clean her bit by bit. She looks a lot better than when I first got her but I know I should probably shell out for a better wheel at some point but I'm poor.

Alright man, I'll take a look.

gonna second that, no way that is oem

nb is based on the same chassis as the NA.. so yes they are pretty similar. Lots of parts are interchangable. NA is not as stiff, has skinnier tires, smaller brakes, narrower track, 5 speed instead of 6, etc. and has less HP.

Pull out the spark plug wires and take out the fuel pump fuse. Check for spark. Rent a fuel pressure meter to check fuel. CAS doesn't really tend to go bad, but idk how to check that

It's not really a problem wear-wise. If you really want to get rid of it, pull out the lifters, disassemble, clean, and refill with 10w-30 full synth.

cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/d/1990-mazda-miata/6504297638.html

What should i offer him?

JUST

I recognize that river

>le low miles meme

$4k is cheap for that. Then again you're in bumfuck Ohio. offer $3k and work from there. because that car would easily go for $5k+ here in New England.

I bought a thing.

Also, ECU's.
Megasquirt MS3's versus Link G4's. Doing some preliminary windowshopping on those two, MS3 seems far more popular but I can get G$+'s for the same price, both PnP.

Wat do?

DIY PNP, $450

I'll add that to the list of looksies.
I've got a weller soldering station and all, but fuck me if I want to troubleshoot a problem I soldered.

Me221

my miata mechanic who has been working on miatas since their inception and preps race spec miatas says its not a big deal and more money to fix than to simply ignore

This is more than likely to be my next car. Any reason I shouldn't get it?

My '94 1.8L NA has a rough idle/kinda sounds like its missing at low revs, especially when accelerating, but only when its warm. I replaced the spark plugs and put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in which seemed to fix it for about 4 days, after which the problem started coming back. I'm going to do the fuel and air filter, and the spark plug wires seem to have normal resistance accross them. Any ideas?

So I happened to tell my friend about it last night as a "hey, look at this cool lever" and basically she confirmed "lol that's aftermarket cruise control". So yeah, all hope for an ejector seat is gone.

Yep. You won't notice a bloody thing if you don't track it.

They have some really good diy pnp write-ups out there on forums and on their website.

Could be ignition coils. If you have a multimeter you can test their resistance

Have you never driven slowly over a big dip in a parking lot or driveway and felt the whole chassis twist? It gets especially bad with stiffer springs

guys, im having a look at one this weekend, any advice on what specifically to look for and shit

pic unrelated but is what I wish to turn it into later on

disgusting. number one rule don't buy Rota's, XXR's or any other garbage replica wheels

I was talking more about the interior and the color shit

I'll keep the wheels he's selling it with if I buy it

still any advice is apprechiated

glass transmissions

Your main worry should be rust. If its rust free underneath then you are golden an can move onto other things.

>tfw found a sub 100k 1 owner 2004 6 speed LS red on black for cheap
>have for a month + 1/2
>order nice new parts ton install in it
>get on freeway going to go karting with friend
>traffic stops friend rear ends me in his ranger
>car totaled, hardly get back what i paid for it

now there is not a single low mileage nb2 near me and i have all these fucking parts sitting in my room. fuck this shit man

It's finally warming up outside

>pulled wheels out of the basement to wash them
>probably going to polish the lips and seal them tomorrow

Soon.

It was like 75F here today. Man I really wanted to get the miata out but it's actually the worst time to do it since all the salty snow is melting everywhere. Soon though...

Can I buy your glove box?

ill b down to sell u it if u live in the IE

I'm surprised it's not gone already. 4k is a fine price if it's as nice as it seems.

Damn I'm 1000 miles away.

Sorry about your car.

And I thought it was nice out for me today when it was 48F. Even pulled my bike out and took it for the first ride in like 5 months. That stuff all looks really good. Pulled it out to switch to poly bushings and have it powder coated?

Yeah it was 75 today and tomorrow it's gonna snow.
Those arent actually my control arms but I'm planning to pull my suspension apart soon and actually go back to rubber bushings. I want to clean up my control arms and paint them. Still debating the color. I've had poly bushings for about 7 years and I'm finally getting sick of them. I just want my car to somewhat comfortable and I'm willing to give up a little handling performance get some comfort back.

Same. Rain/snow mix tomorrow. I'm assuming we aren't too far apart. You in CT?

NH

i cant decide if the bumper is of the same color as the rest of the car???

Another pic.

At first glance it is not the same color at all but tilt your screen and it magically is

Is the Phoenix’ color really hard to capture or are parts mismatched??

I'm about an hour south of Boston.

The picture quality is terrible, but in the pics the color does look off. The bumper seems like it's a little more blue.

newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/1999-mazda-miata-1owner/6484696710.html

What should I offer for this? Anything I should be looking out for in particular?

definitely a repaint but it doesn't look too bad so it wouldn't be a dealbreaker for me

>$8k

lol no. you can buy one with a bit more miles for less than $5k. with $8k you're getting close to E36 M3/Honda S2000 territory.

Mileage doesn't mean shit when it comes to Miata's. They are reliable as shit.

Well it still is priced at 4600€. It’s cheaper than what i would find in france (it’s in belgium) but idk if it’s worth it.

autoscout24.fr/offres/mazda-mx-5-serie-limite-phoenix-4jantes-pneus-hiver-essence-gris-29b92e5a-20a4-9302-e053-e350040a017f?cldtidx=2

Thoughts on this one?
autoscout24.fr/offres/mazda-mx-5-1-6i-16v-nb-fl-tan-leather-decade-edition-essence-noir-afbba464-449d-3f37-e053-e250040a3147?cldtidx=15#descriptionTop

I love that fastback hardtop.

thats cause you have good taste nigga.

come here and give me a kiss

>110hp 1.6l
Jesus Euros get cucked on everything. In the states they're rated at ~140hp.
They both look good otherwise. I like the black one better.

$5000
It's a Miata they're meant to be thrashed not sitting in a fucking museum.

not the person you replied to but
>implying someone who listed their car at $8k will take $5k.

you are also delusional. best thing will be to just let the car sit on craigslist and when the seller realizes his price is too high he'll adjust it.

>be me
>always liked NA Miatas
>mom for years told me to learn Manual because you never know when i'll need it
>always told her lmao nobody drives stick anymore
>SEE THIS
boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/d/1990-mazda-miata-mx-5/6497489163.html
>paint, interior, everything looks solid and clean
>transmission: manual
>can't drive manual
>should've taken my moms advice

Always listen to your moms/parents lads.

buy it and learn faggot, miata is one of the easiest manuals to learn
> clutch in
> start
> 1st gear
> clutch out + lil gas
boom you already did the hardest part
oh gotta shift to second?
> clutch in
> second
> clutch out + gas
congrats

ps, don't pay 4k for it, try around 2800-3200, negotiate, its a 28 year old car .its a 90, have to worry about crank pulley key issue on 90 to 93 I think it was

but It is pretty nice, I just got mine last year, 93 Limited edition for 3600

miata is always the answer

Nice quads. Yeah I wouldn't offer him 5k I just think it's worth 5k.

Dude that's nice, buy it. Has a lot of miles, I'd try to get it for $3500.

You're a dumb cuck

so I have a ND but i hardly ever drive it. I live in socal as well so weather isn't an excuse.

what do

Real talk tho, my regular commutes have so many stops I can only imagine how shitty it'd be to drive a manual. Constant shifting.

Any ever drive an auto? These 2 are around my area:

>providence.craigslist.org/cto/d/1996-mazda-miata-na-low-miles/6477841332.html
Looks mad nice, low miles, ok price, but I'd ideally want a red one t b h.

>worcester.craigslist.org/ctd/d/1995-mazda-mx-5-miata-2dr/6496301360.html
Red one, low miles, clean, stock, kinda dumb high price, ugly spoiler, ugly ass wheels.

You have to decide if you're a driving enthusiast or a fucking normie.

tfw no more snow drifting for the rest of the year

both those prices are awful for an auto miata imo, i've never seen anybody try to sell them for that high of a price before. normally they sell for waaay less than a manual one since there is really no market for them. i highly suggest just learning a manual, it'll take some time getting used to but in the long run if you ever want to sell the car it will be a lot easier to do so + a manual one is just more fun in the first place.

what did my car mean by this? It's oily and on both sides right behind the front wheels