Click click click click

>click click click click
>sorry too cold, I'm dead

>Too cold.
>Not a ford.

Doesn't happen if you maintain your battery and you also have a battery that is suited to the conditions

Take the battery out and shake it.

Just connect the negative and positive together for 5mins it'll warm up and then put it back It will start the first time 100% of the time 70% of the time

>terminal looks fine
>doesn't start
>whack terminal connector with a screwdriver handle
>starts right up
fucking batteries

or just don't live in a shithole that gets cold

/thread

snowdriving bestdriving

Sanddriving is categorically inferior.

How the fuck do so many people manage to fuck up a 200 year old device? It routinely gets to -35 here and I've never had a battery "freeze" even after sitting in that for weeks. Make sure your alternator is working, fix any parasitic drains and stop leaving your fucking lights on repeatedly. Also keep your connections clean and don't leave every electrical device on when you start the car.

The Jews sell different batteries to southerners that don't work in the winter. I never knew about this until the first "polar vortex."

Well generally a battery that shitty will suck in the summer too and not replacing it just stresses the alternator. When I buy my used cars I just throw in a new battery right away.

Your stealerships don't just put in a new battery to avoid question? Lame.

Mine is sitting at my feet awaiting me to give enough of a fuck to charge it back up while the one from like fucking 15 years ago is in my car because I left the god-damned trunk light on one time.

>just do this giant list of shit and you'll be fine
>some require an auto electrician to fault find
>but it's so easy!

>still using ancient lead acid batteries which are so outdated they are pretty much dead weight
enjoy driving your oveweight shitbarges

Ok

All shitholes have shit winters.

Also, have you fuckers never heard of gel-batteries?

>he doesn't understand that batteries degrade over time
uh uh sweety my alternator is still strong and unlike your 200-yo car mine has a built-in battery save relay, which once the ignition has been turned off, automatically cuts the power.

you shouldn't own a car

I thought i did, until the temperature got down to single digits this January.

Rip

Don't worry, I always carry jumper cables as you never know

>TFW you never have this problem because you invested in a good battery that doesn't give a damn.

I see that engineering explained shilled quite good

>not running 2 yellow tops in parallel
~$550 CAD for peace of mind

>tfw lion
>tfw battery that weighs 800 grams instead of 15kg, works the same and can be left alone without losing charge for ever.
One of the best mods ever.

Can you try this post again? English this time, if you would.

this.
but first you need to drill a few holes in the top to let it breath in some fresh ions

>We’re sorry we don’t have an OPTIMA® battery that will fit your particular make and model vehicle

Those are too heavy, have way too little capacity and are too tall.

Needs to have at least 85Ah and 800CCA and maximum height is 175mm/6,89in

First Rule: Always use a high performance battery rated for your climate and operating conditions
Second Rule: Use battery tender int winter if not driving every day
Third Rule: Install engine block heater package that includes a battery insulator/warmer

Like I said mines over 5 years old in one of the worst climates for a battery and it's still strong and it's not even a fancy battery. My oem battery lasted 10 years. It still shouldn't fall on it's face the first time it gets "cold".

Are the newer Optima's still any good? I've heard even they don't use virgin lead anymore and some people have had issues with them.

Must be nice living somewhere where you can use them. They can't into cold at all.

If you "need" to use a battery tender you got some parasitic drain somewhere. A good battery will start after sitting -30 for 2 weeks. Park n Fly lot attendants rarely have to boost cars after sitting for weeks.

>If you "need" to use a battery tender you got some parasitic drain somewhere.
well, i just know that winter is hard on shit, and can definitely kill a weak battery. in my experience a battery dying in winter was usually due to battery being weak, not a drain in the system.
so i like to play it safe and put my battery on a tender if its convenient.

Mine is working like a charm. I'm a ham, and have all kinds of equipment in my vehicle, which is why i run a yellowtop. Reds are for starting vehicles and regular applications, basically rated for CCA. Blues are built for marine applications, and are rated for deep draw and high amp hours. Yellows are a mixed breed of the two. You can deep draw from them without having to worry about damaging a regular car battery, but you can also start a vehicle without causing damage to it, like you would if you used just a marine battery.

List so far includes a scanner, CB with a PA, a laptop with a charger on it, and a 50w dual band ham radio, as well as a few USB ports for anything that might use them. I've left all this equipment on with the vehicle off for hours (went overnight a time or two) and its started every single time without a trouble. It got down to -20 last year, and i never had a tender on it. Still worked beautiful.

Why don't you just replace the weak battery?