My 2011 Accord has a bad catalytic converter, obdii reader says P0420. i have a jack and jack stands but can't weld. im also poor. ive changed the oil and rotated the tires myself a few times
can i replace the thing?
is replacement as ez as screw out the old one screw in the new one??
basically you have to unscrew the oxygen sensors and unbolt the cat and bolt the new one back in. shouldnt have to weld
the point you hit issues is especially if the cars seen snow you'll have to heat up the oxygen sensors with a torch because they'll likely be seized, if the threads are fucked you need new oxygen sensors. you'll likely have to torch out the old cat converter bolts because they'll be a rusty round blob
if you live in the desert or the cars been inside alot being only 7 years old the bolts might not be too bad
ok cool i live in hell on earth phoenix arizona pic related so hopefully it wont be too bad
thank
Try cleaning the O2 sensor first, 2011 is way too new for a bad cat
Alternatively just fuck it and throw on a spacer on the O2 sensor after the cat and clear the code
I'd suggest trying to find out why your catalytic converter burnt out so fast, theyre made to last. Your car could be running too rich and unburnt fuel is getting to it.
Realistically if you don't need safety/emission tests done I'd just cut it out and put a pipe in lieu of it, no need to weld either.
>take out cat
>Drive cold chisel through core with hammer
>repeat until you can see though it
>reinstall
Only teenagers do this. Recycle that shit, it's filled with precious metals that you can get money back for
Take it in to the shop goy
>recycle cat
>now need to buy a new one or get a straight through pipe
Good thinking, brainlet
Please tell us how gutting out his cat is going to help OP clear his code and possibly pass emissions?
>Land of the freeeee
Lmao
Srs tho just get a dummy o2 sensor
Or OP can find out what's really wrong with his car. It's only 7 years old
The code says it's either a bad cat or a bad o2 sensor. My method will fix both problems.
Or his engine can be running rich or burning oil which is far more likely on a newer Honda
Go give shit advice on /b/
Where is the running rich code?
Where is lowing oil level?
Holy shit you're stupid
>ruining the resale value of his 2011
Post cat o2 sensors don't deal with with your air fuel ratio. They only exist to cuck you on emissions. There's no negative to installing a dummy other than environmental.
You know O2 sensors are just resistors, right? A car burning oil can easily found the sensor and trick the car into thinking the cat is bad
Go read a book
Do you still have to get an emissions test? If not just delete that shit.
Yes, but it would be picked up by the pre cat o2 sensors.
And it will throw the same generic code
So my point about the post cat o2 sensor existing only to cuck you stands.
You're just arguing for the sake of arguing now
You're a dipshit, m8. By installing a dummy o2 sensor, he'll pass emissions. If it does turn out that the engine is fuck and burning oil, he'll have bigger problems than the $50 spent on the sensor.
Or he can fix the actual problem now instead of pushing it off, because there's no way a 2011 has a bad cat
Stop giving shit advice
What's he gonna do? Rebore and rering the shitbox accord? 95% chance my solution will fix the issue for
Probably O2 sensor and not the cat, unless literally putting regular oil in the gas tank or some dumb shit.
I have a 2010, these cars run rich when in vtec naturally, and they also burn oil on the recommended 5w20 on synthetic if you actually rev it out but don't if you're drive nice.
Or just replace a gasket. Now fuck off back to
You're a dopey cunt. Chances are it's just his o2 sensor Sperging out. Deleting the useless partand gutting the cat is cheap and will probably solve his issue. You need to be a little more practical, my man
Gutting the cat for no reason is not practical. Cleaning the O2 sensor like I originally suggested is
>cleaning
Just replace it with a dummy if it's post cat
>gutting the cat which gives no negatives, costs no money and could potentially fix the issue is not practical
Lmao
>no negatives
>entire car reeks like burnt gas
>fixes absolutely nothing
Stay retarded
>car reeks of burnt gas
lol wat.
Never drove a catless car before? What else can you expect from a bus rider?
I have a 70s weekend car and the exhaust smells just the same as my 2012 shitbox. Maybe you need to learn how to tune a carb?
I believe you, keyboard warrior
I'm the keyboard warrior? Lmao, m8. I gave a cheap simple fix to his issue and I've got you sperging at me asking me to justify my advice.
No you gave retarded advice. Drilling out his cat won't make the code go away, and getting a dummy plug won't fix his problem
If the cat is faulty, "drilling out" the car will make the issue go away
If the post cat o2 sensor is faulty, installing a dummy will make the issue go away
>if the engine is burning oil, but not enough to lower the level significantly over the service period, a dummy o2 sensor will make the issue go away.
The cat isn't faulty because the car is only 7 years old
A dummy O2 sensor will just hide the actual problem if it isn't the O2 sensor going bad, which you can find out by cleaning the damn thing
Your advice is bad and you should feel bad. Now fuck off
There's no reason a cat couldn't fail after 7 years
>a dummy o2 sensor will just hid the problem
That's the idea, silly. If your oil leak is so minor that you can't notice an oil level drop over a six month service period, it's not going to be worth the trouble fixing it. You just have to get it to pass emissions.
>There's no reason a cat couldn't fail after 7 years
Such as...?
It's a relatively Accord, shit doesn't just fail for no reason
>faulty construction
>shit fuel
>physical damage
>high stress from driving the car hard and having excess fuel burn up in the exhaust system
>faulty construction
Would have shown up earlier. And would still be covered under America's mandatory 8 year emissions system warranty
>shit fuel
Literally designed to run on pig shit 87
>physical damage
Highly unlikely, or OP would be complain about how his exhaust is suddenly louder
>high stress from driving the car hard and having excess fuel burn up in the exhaust system
It's powered by a K24 dummy, it'll rev up and down all day without complaints
>would have shown up earlier.
Maybe who knows
>designed to run on 87
>he thinks the only metric to judge fuel on is octane rating
Confirmed for no car brainlet
>op would complain
Like if his engine way using enough fuel to fuck his emissions
>engine number I'm not aware of
Any engine will dump fuel into the exhaust when it drops from high rpm. If you thrash it constantly, you'll fuck the cat.
>using enough oil, I mean
I’m a parts manager. Most of our cars have an 8 year / 80,000 mile warranty on cats. Check with your dealer. It migh5 be covered.
You don't even know the about the car OP has and yet still insist your shit advice is the way to good. Good job, idiot
all cats are bad cats
This
It's the same across most newer cars, m8. You've done a great job showing everyone that you're a brainlet, so I think this will be the your last (you)
Its not filled with shit, these things aren't expensive and the amount of precious metals in them is only catalytic amounts. The amount of paladium or platinum isn't worth you blowing hours to try and extract it.
>Like if his engine way using enough fuel to fuck his emissions
The ECU should control the fuel injection and how much it needs per amount of oxygen, I've never heard of this as an issue at all.
>Any engine will dump fuel into the exhaust when it drops from high rpm.
No it won't
>enough fuel to fuck emissions
I meant oil and corrected in the post down
>no it wont
Yes they do.
Tell that to the guy who pays me $80-200 per converter.
Only brainlets drill out a cat worth a couple hundred
Do you not know about DFCO? All engines cut fuel injection on overrun. Takes like a second to kick in after you let off the gas pedal.
Oil doesn't just leak for no reason. The minute amounts that come off the valves and cylinder walls is irrelevant in an engine that is working well. Improperly bedded rings can cause oil burning, so can a bad seal or PCV valve. None of this happens from redlining an engine every so often unless you're revving it cold all the time.
>a fucked cat is worth hundreds
You'll still get fuel in you exhaust. Listen to your v-tec Honda coming down in the revs and you hear it popping.
>oil
I already addressed the possibility of an oil leak. If it's not lowing the level over a 6 month period, it's not worth bothering and the dummy o2 sensor will get you through emissions.
>implying the cat is fucked on a 2011 Accord
Stop being stupid
If it's throwing emissions codes, it could be. I don't exactly have access to the shitbox to confirm.
It's a 7 year old car, the answer isn't drilling out the cat. If the cat really is bad then he can get it replaced at a dealership at no cost to himself.
There's a mandatory 8 year warranty on all cars sold in the US for emissions systems
So how does this mean that a cat can't fail on a 2011 vehicle?
Why would it fail on a relatively new car? If it's clogged up so soon there's something else wrong with the car
It happens for like two seconds on overrun tops. The fuel injectors don't leak in response to vacuum. If there is no injection signal it won't leak unless the injector is broken.
If there's an emissions issue OP should definitely get it fixed right away before the emissions warranty ends. Oil burning is bad news for carbon buildup, vacuum leaks hurt throttle response, oil leaks can damage belts and hoses. Catalytic converters don't just die for no reason. Getting to the root cause matters.
A misfire that was neglected or burning a shit ton of oil due to running low on oil.
So issues that aren't the cat's fault and still need to be fixed whether or not you drill the damn thing out?
There's plenty of reason and if you read the thread you'll find some.
Yes. If he can get Honda to fix it for him for free in a prompt manner, he should do that. I'm not an Amerifat, so I'm not aware of your consumer protection.
Name the reasons then. All I'm finding are causes unrelated to the cat that won't be fixed if OP drills it out
Just delete the code you larping faggot.
They're in the thread, m8. I'm not gonna explaining my 4 lines of green text advice for a second time.
That's because you know you were wrong
Do you think you government would have even thought to write an 8 year guarantee for cats into law if they never fail before 8 years?
The warranty is there because it shouldn't fail, and for the rare cases when it does it has to be replaced. These are usually defective units on newer cars
At 7 years OP's car is too old to have a defective unit from the factory but too new to have a defective unit from age. There are a plethora of far more likely causes for his CEL, and drilling out a perfectly good cat is the solution to none of them
So why make the 8 year warranty when the manufacturers warranty would cover 99% of failures over an 8 year period?
So auto makers are legally obliged to keep their products emissions compliant for 8 years from their purchase date. After that it's the car owner's responsibility
But if it doesn't fail between the end of the manufacturers period and the end of the 8 year warranty, what's the point?
Do you not understand what warranties are?
I do. I'm saying that there's no point having a government mandated 8 year warranty if 99% of failures occur within the manufacturers warranty.
An incentive for manufacturers to make a products that will last at the very least those 8 years
It's not an incentive. An incentive would be a reward when the cat reaches 8yos, not punishment if it doesn't. Your brainlet is showing again, my man
...
This doesn't say that I'm wrong
You need a better grasp of grade school English before posting here
>y-you're wrong
Stop posting, fren
>a fucked cat is worth hundreds
The valuable metals that make it worth something are still there. Recycler doesn't care if it's plugged with crap or not.
related question did a smog today and HC came back at 130ppm @ 15mp while nox and co were perfectly fine. at 25mph everything was perfect. any ideas what the issue are have googled around saw check plugs and fuel injector cleaner.
This dumb nigger doesn't even know what the word incentive means
I'm in Florida and have a car that's pretty low (stock suspension), considering getting an aftermarket downpipe, should I do a cat delete as well while I'm at it? Don't have to worry about emissions testing, I've already removed the EGR. How much power could a more efficient downpipe, ported exhaust manifolds, and cat delete possible bring to a v6?
t. Amerifat with no understanding of English
Fuck all, more than likely. It might sound cool tho.