/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Noice, got mine in last weekend.

5.3 master race

hell yeah

That's why I keep a truck gun

>scream unintelligible russian as she backs away in fear

Hillarious! Posting the worst shitbox of all time with photoshopped tire smoking! Awesome! These could barely make it out of the driveway, so the irony is fabulous!

Not having the superior Problem Solvah with desert marpat hand grips

Not the guy that posted the Makarov, but did you really just say a Hi-Point is better than a Makarov...........?

At solving problems? Hell yea it is dude. You've never heard of the legendary Glawk Fowty?

/K/ memez

here's my current baby. selling it for $6500 and buying a '77 Ranchero 351w for $1800.

the guy selling it hasn't done to much with it. no major rust, the engine turns over and idles, no major oil burning and no coolant burning. what am I should I start immediately repairing on an old windsor?

and here's Senior Ranchero

Get your implements of death and destruction off my wholesome car enthusiast board.

Why do we have two CCG right now?

looks like someone in clueless
youtube.com/watch?v=OgGgShB1iHQ

how much is it to rebuild a rotary engine? like a 13b on an fd/fc or a 12a on an fb

Just bad luck i guess lol. I can walk you through both start ups.

Cold Start:
>pump gas twice
>turn key
>instant start up

Hot Start
>get in
>turn key for 5 secs
>say a prayer cause it didnt start
>hold key for 5 more secs
>if no start, i pump the gas a little while turning key
>eventually cranks to life.
All while having gf question me why it wont start and say we shouldnt take it anywhere

Really need to do the body work

Mother fucker, that was in a reply to

Looks pretty solid apart from from the gap by the door and front fender.

Why do we have 2 ccg's? someone delete one.

It's made from a bunch of panels of different ones so nothing is aligned at all. Makes for a super mean looking ride though. I used to be all about the mad max aesthetic and loved the rattle can and panel gaps with open headers and was gonna go blower-thru-the-hood unpainted aluminum louvers and shit but I honestly outgrew it. I want to leave it well dome and a high gloss black like pic related and have a nice looking classic to cruise in and occasionally drag. Perhaps white racing stripes but it's a z28 not an SS so sacrilege.

Bro. I fucking love you stang.

>create thread w/o subject
>you cannot delet a post this old
Embarrassing. Well, nobody post there and it should die in a day or two

>mfw sitting in la madeleine drinking coffee and tracking my gear parts on a beautiful sunday afternoon with nothing to do

No classic to work on today
I guess it's either drive the corvette or do drugs all day.
>or BOTH

Parts haven't shown up yet either
Gonna put on my leather jacket and go shoot my lever action 12 gauge. Asta la vista, baby

Forgot pic
I do everything the poorfag way
Poor fag classic
Poorfag tools
Poorfag guns

more than you can afford pal

tfw you finally fix the fucked up paint on your bumper(sorta)

I made a thread about this the other day but was told to come here:
Dad's got this 68 Camaro, told me it's mine if we get it running. Nothing special it's a 327 with the 2 speed auto, but I want to fix it up and use it as my dd. I don't want to restore it, just get it running and replace anything that is too far gone. It ran when parked 18 years ago, but the alternator went bad so he shelved it. So I'll start with what I could glean by looking at it and what my dad's told me.
Needs a new alternator, new convertible roof, new gas tank, all new tires and wheels, battery, carburetor, needs a hell of a car-wash, and a new carpet (interior is disgusting, bugs and rat shit everywhere) but other than that, the engine and transmission were fine when shelved and it's got about 90,000 miles on it. What kind of time and money investment am I looking at here?

does the engine at least turn over now?

Haven't tried, I need to lug it over to our garage and drain the disgusting oil and gasoline out of it first.

You're probably looking at several grand from what you've listed needs replacing. If the drivetrain gives you problems, probably a couple more grand

This.

New tires, new oil, definitely check your transmission fluid level and top off before driving, new alternator as you mentioned and ensure it's charging properly with a volt meter. Might be a good idea to do a new voltage regulator with it. Check for any major leaks and repair.

And the two biggest things:

1) new fuel system - all of it; tank, rubber hoses, pump, filter, carb rebuild - do not skimp here. It is all shot after sitting that many years and doing it all will save you more time and effort in the long run. If the tank is expensive (more than $150), drain and look inside it. If it's not rusted, it can be reused. But it almost certainly is.

2) you at least need to do a coolant change. Often times this leads to being a massive project. Because your radiator may be leaking so you need to replace that if so. Then your water pump is probably leaking after sitting that many years, so that probably needs done as well. Then you pull it apart and, oh wait, that timing cover is sandwich between the pump and the engine block, isn't it? Time to tear every accesory off to reseal the timing cover and water pump gaskets behind it. Then you got that off, and you see your timing chain is stretched. Well fuck, I guess we do that too, don't we? Then you see some sludge maybe. This is where you stop, do not tear in any further. If you see sludge, flush the engine with a mixture of transmission fluid (2 quarts mercon v atf, and the rest oil), drain, and put new oil and filter on. Don't both tearing anything else apart or you will end up at the crankshaft doing a full rebuild. If your water pump isn't leaking, don't fuck with any of that. If it's dripping a little, it's going to get worse. So just roll up your sleeves and prepare yourself for everything listed above.

Another thing to note. If you had to do all of that stuff because the cooling system was garbage, there's a good chance the heater core behind the dash may need replaced too.

Heyyyyy, that's a neat Lincoln. Here's my boat

On older cars it's fairly simple. There should be a how to you can google easily. I wouldn't worry yourself unless it's actually leaking.

Your brakes may need an overhaul too. I would at least bleed the lines and check the depth of your shoes/pads. After that, if the brakes are spongy or the car doesn't stop well, overhaul it all before you end up coming to a red light and your foot goes to floor, then you scramble for the parking brake and hope you don't end up in oncoming traffic (ask me how I know, still remember that moment vividly 10 years later).

Wheel bearings may need to have preload adjusted or be replaced dependingon how it drives.

This all may be a little overwhelming. Don't worry about it immediately. Just save it as advice on what to do when you get to that point. Just focus on getting it running. Check for major leaks and fix anything that's pouring out before driving it. Then take it for a drive, see how that goes. Fix any issues that arise from that. Any classic needs constant work, just remember that before you dive in with unrealistic expectations.

Don't know if I shared this with you guys, got these 2" Pirelli white walls for $270 from some mexican tires shop, 235/75/15. Pirelli don't even make them anymore and everyone knows Coker is like 250/tire. Idk where they got this shit but I ain't complaining, tread is a mile deep

Thanks.. grandpa top crew. I always thought the half vinyl top looks like a balding head

Everything LNN said plus the general advice that cars eat your money and it's probably a good idea to get a cheap shitbox to DD in the meanwhile, if you don't already have one. Get it running and claim ownership, then just take your time getting her ready. If it's your only car, every roadblock will be that much more frustrating. You'll get there, you're very lucky to get a '68 for free

You should honestly just junk it my guy
I'll give u 250$ for it and trailer it away myself so u don't have to pay for scrapping fees. I'll get that old eyesore out of your hair

Check the age on those tires, don't use ancient rubber. I don't see much use in whitewalls unless you want the look or are doing a true original restoration. Then again I just bought the cheapest I could get in the correct size and have no problems tearing them up as much as 40 horsepower can.

Yeah, I've got this heap to dd and have had it for a year now. It's almost old enough to be posted in this thread, and has over 500k miles on the original throttle body 350. I've gotten some experience fixing the various shit that's gone with it.

I think the right tires are a really great cheap way to add to the look of your car, not just the wheels/caps. These ones are going to replace a set of completely mismatched, poorly sized and generally poor tires, it's a decent cosmetic improvement for the price. I also bought a set of hubcaps from fleabay on the cheap, not the right year, but they're nicer than the correct ones anyway in my opinion.

Dumb question, is it age of the tire printed on it somewhere? Never bothered with it

How bad is the rust?
ill pay 300$ to get it out of his hair

It's not rusty at all. Georgia car.

Ok; rant time:

The first thing you do is disconnect the fuel line and see if the engine turns. If it doesn't, follow the greentext:

>Fill the block up completely with Marvel's Mystery Oil; and I do mean COMPLETELY, and put ATF/Acetone in the cylinders. Leave the plugs out. After it sits overnight, check for leaks and, if not real leaking has occurred (not fucking likely, by the way), drain a little back out. This also tests your seals. If it was pouring oil out one of the seals, then you'll need to address that posthaste.

>Once you've done this, take a breaker bar to the crank and see if it'll turn.

If it cranks, then rebuild the carburetor, replace the oil with a high additive content oil for a diesel truck, and run it from a gravity-fed can (a gas can positioned above the fuel inlet on the carb so that it eliminates the need for a pump.) If it fires and sputters, replace the points. If it cranks and will run, use this to flush the coolant and see if she runs smooth.

If she does, then you replace all the fluids; use the running engine to flush the coolant; replace anything that leaks, but don't try moving her until you've changed the transmission fluid and filter.

Order new brake and fuel lines, a new brake master, and a new fuel tank. It does not pay to reuse these on a car where they're readily available. Rebuild the brake components or buy new ones; depends what you're comfortable with.
Also consider a new wiring harness; your car has the advantage of these being readily available ant it will save you countless headaches.

The car is going to need everything rubber replaced; belts, hoses, plug boots, tires, bushings, etc. You can probably put off bushings.

Best-case scenario; an alternator is around $100.00. The cheapest gas tank I could find is $72.00 (I hate you, by the way) brake lines are $200.00, your brake master is $35.00; $40.00 for 4 wheel cylinders. (Fucking hell, I hate you. Mine are virtually nonexistent)

It's a code on the tire, maybe a google search can help figure out what decade the Pirellis went out of production.

tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11

320$

Tires will be $400.00 to get you down the road. Until you've got her more sorted, cheap tires are fine.

This brings you to $847.00 at the moment. Add in belts, hoses, generic fluids, and the transmission filter and you should be at just over $1,000.00. Not too bad, really.

You can put off getting new carpets by pulling the seats and cleaning the car with a carpet shampooer; it works wonders and has saved me from having to buy carpets on a few cars. Then, fix the top. Top hydraulics are a bitch and the new top/lines/pump will cost you about $1,500. If you don't mind leaving the body as-is, you can probably get the car back on the road in decently reliable shape for $3,000 (including little unexpected surprises.)

From there, you'll have to replace what fails as it comes up; power steering pump, water pump, electrical, etc. As long as the drivetrain isn't shot, it's not a major investment. The wiring harness is still something you should consider, as well, but it's a simple enough car that you may be fine for years.

DELET THIS

Thanks for the help.

I agree.

Any time. It's what I do. Literally.

So I just bought an AMC Eagle with a carbed 258 I6. Its been sitting in a garage since 2002, and the dude bought it brand new in 1982. Dude just up and died so I got for cheap. Its my first real project car (not a 90s shit box) and I'm 20 years old so I know nothing at all about carburetors. Its going to be a big learning experience for me. Few things I've noticed:
-The valve cover is plastic? Should I replace it with a metal one, because it just seems like it'd leak really easy.
-wheels are the only thing that seem to be rusted (I think the guys son switched the original ones out on his jeep). Is it worth getting new wheels or just not care since it has hub caps and no one will notice?
-It runs just fine, its just cosemtic stuff. I'm going to do the expected stuff like changing fluids, seals, brakes, and tires, but was basically asking if I need to watch for anything else.

Also sorry if this is considered a shitbox and not ccg worthy.

youtube.com/watch?v=rn4yHfu0GxE

How do you guys set your valve lash? Running or turning by hand? All the specs are with the engine at operating temp, so it seems like it would be hard to get right not-running, since the engine is cooling down as you go. Although with the engine running you need a lighter torch wrench so it's easier to aim.

So i mightve found a cause my hot start problem.

Burned myself on my aur breather when i was checking the carb, so im wondering if its retaining a lot of heat and causing the fuel to boil away in the lines.

So i bought a new breather, an adapter thatll raise it, and some heat shielding for the lines.

Thoughts? I just have to put on a longer stud to make it work.

Also, i know this is a dumb question, but the hose connecting the breather to the valve cover, what is it for? My 1st engine to have one and i need to by pass it.

youtube.com/watch?v=jc7EySn1YPM

Carbs are easy to understand and rebuild, no worries.

>road warrior/10
would drive into the apocalypse

I remember all the work that went into replacing a timing chain gasket. Not fun, and took me 2 days cause everything else was fucked. Thank god for RTV.

The upside to owning a popular GM...

68 Camaro guy, do this first before my advice. My advice should be taken after you know the engine isn't complete trash.

I would only change one thing. I dont think that it's completely necessary to fill the entire crank case with marvel mystery oil to leak check it first, as that can be expensive. Although it is good advice to follow if you want to be totally thorough. If it turns over by hand with a breaker bar on the crankshaft, I personally would just change the oil and fire it up (after doing atf/acetone in the combustion chambers), and then check leaks as you run/drive it. It's really just personal preference on how to go about it. Most of the rubber seals and gaskets will be dried out and shot though and will require replacement eventually anyway. The marvel mystery oil will help soften them up a bit for the time being however.

Even if it turns over by hand, filling the cylinders up with atf/acetone mixture really should be done regardless though. With sitting that long, it will help reseal and seat the piston rings and minimize the chance of a dry piston ring scoring a cylinder wall.

Saw truck in the 2k shitbox thread. You did good.

Do you really have a fucking luger? I have a post war P38, always wanted a luger. More pics pls.

Case ventilation. It lets pressure out of the case and some vacuum from the intake might help keep oil from leaking out of various places. There are little filters you can stick on the valve cover in place of the line if you really need the hose gone for some reason.

The main reason I like to fill the block on a stuck engine is because it can free up a stuck lifter. It saves me a lot of trouble down the road for a little up front; but, it's 100% a matter of personal taste.

Yep; that's a 1941 war Luger. What would you like to see?

I don't know if you guys are really big into some of the historical aspects of our cars but I really, really enjoy going through the MyMopar archive of Chrysler master tech training videos, advertisements, and promotional material.

These three videos are not the very best examples, but they're unique because it's three videos on the same topic from 1948, 1966 and 1976. The difference in style, animation, music and subject matter are really fantastic. My almonds are activated.

Coastie and AMC Eagle guy, I think you guys should watch these especially, since you keeping having fuel problems / are new to carbs, respectively.

1948:
youtube.com/watch?v=DTk1OJe5PFc

1966:
youtube.com/watch?v=jc7EySn1YPM

1976:
youtube.com/watch?v=nBtqTbGu2eU

Sticking gauges in there with it running would be a fucking bitch.

I watched another tech do it at work on his 59 Impala straight 6 with it running. He didn't use gauges and although it's not technically the correct way, it's still running fine 4 years later. He just loosened the adjuster, and turned the lasher in until each cylinder quit ticking, then went just a minor hair past that, and tightened it back down.

Ive never actually adjusted lash before. My 1999 corvette unfortunately has no lash adjustment and you have to adjust by changing pushrods. Fucking dumb. If you could find lash specs for a cold engine, I think that would probably work. But if you're worried about adjusting as the engine cools down, I don't think that will be a problem as long as you don't dilly dally and takr forever. Takes a while for an engine to cool down. Or just let it run and warm back up after each valve.

Thats how it goes with classicsm simple job turns into a 2 day project because everything is rotted. Hardcore classic purists bawk at using rtv. I just laugh in their face as their shit leaks oil all over their driveway because muh paper gaskets. Fuck that. Rubber gaskets or rtv over paper is the way to go. The timing cover on my 400 was so pitted I had to rtv the fucking PISS out of it. Doesn't leak and it runs fine. I even did straight rtv no premade gasket on my steel oil pan. Which is really the way to go sometimes. Sealants have gotten fantastic over the past few decades and a lot of modern cars just use rtv from the factory.

Didn't think about that. It probably would be a good idea in his case. I let my bronco sit for a month in November last year. Got it started and had a lifter tick that must have been conceived from the depths of hell. Could hear it all way inside my apartment from the parking lot. I was moving at the time and decided, fuck it, if it blows up it blows up, not much I can do right now. Luckily it cleared up as I drove it.

Ok, i was looking at one of those, now i gotta go buy that. Im gonna need one since i cant use that hose with a new air filter and all.

Thanks, ill check those out.

This screams Drac or you all over it.
pensacola.craigslist.org/cto/d/1960-chrysler/6509759903.html

fucking hell. For $1000 that's a pretty good deal though, astrodome instrument cluster makes me rock hard

Some filters have a spot to connect it. I've had two aftermarket air cleaner housings with a connection for a hose.

Neat, but a tough sell. I have no idea what I'd price that at. The 383 is the most valuable part of the whole car.

That beast is welcome for sure m80

A complete car that runs and drives, and im sure your inner jew could get it for 750 or less.

It's not complete if it's been disassembled; parts always get lost.

As for that 383, it's an oddball year; both '59 and '60 don't use the later 383 parts. As such, the engine isn't particularly valuable. Less so, given that it's been modified.

It's got body issues on a 4-door that nobody likes. The tail lights were desirable for customs, but the most valuable part is the speedometer cluster.

It's the type of car you buy for yourself or as a parts car. No real redeeming value.

I don't know shit about working on classic cars, but i'd like to drive one around.

I may not know much, or anything, but I do have a garage filled with tools primarily for automobiles; so if there is something i'd need to do I could probably work on it.

I've been looking at Buick Regals from the 1980's, would that be a good start?

No. Go about 10 years earlier. Early '70s cars are a lot easier to work on and learn with.

>tfw nothing to work on today because no parts/bad planning
I have three different pairs of headers for my setup and they're all a problem. Either plug wires are going to be a pain in the ass or fitness and fabwork are going to be a pain in the ass. Or both.

How did you end up with three sets of headers that don't fit? That sounds really fucking expensive.q

did some good 'ol fashioned tape measure work and figured out why my car had a lean to the driver's side. Turns out the air shock was completely fucked up also interestingly enough turns out my leaf springs are only an 1/8 of an inch off from each other. Other than that I put my 403 up on craigslist since it's taking too much space in my garage so if it sells I'll have some extra funds for some repair work on the ta's body. The only parts left to get for the motor are the flex plate and the oil filter housing so as soon as I get that flexplate I'll bolt the tranny up to it and get it put into the car.

Hey, go to 8:58 and watch until 10:10. This is on the BBD, but the BBS has a similar vent setup. Considering you have stalling and hot start issues, I think this may be your problem.

youtube.com/watch?v=w9WxF2RZp8c

What i've been looking at from the 70's are

>Pontiac Firebird (are the 80 and 81 models the same mechanically?)
>Camaro
>El Camino
>Ford Thunderbird
>Ranchero
>Plymouth Arrow
>Dodge Dart
>Chrysler Cordoba
>AMC Rambler
>Delta 88, Tornado, Cutlass

among several others. I can usually find any one of those for under 10 grand on the classifieds if I look.

Which one would be better start? I've heard things about transmissions and motors in one being better/easier than others.

Holy shit, that just might be it. But what if i have rough idle, hard hot start, and poor economy?

And im digging these videos. Simple and clear.

2nd gen F body, join the cult my friend

Stock manifolds came with the motor, I ran n/a so I had shorties, then I bought up and forward turbo headers in hopes that they'd fit the steering shaft goes right through primary #7 so it'd require major surgery.

>plug wires are a pain with turbo headers
>shorties up and forward go out so making the crossover would be a pain in the ass, down and forward the driver's side hits the steering box, even bigger pain in the ass for fab work
>same with the stock manifolds

I'm thinking I could make a log manifold with one of the headers, just cutting it in half and welding it to a sch 10 pipe

2nd gens camaros/trans ams are pretty much identical mechanically, apart from the smog era crap on the later years.

Id go with the camaro/firebird, el camino, ranchero for a beginner classic
>popular = large fan base for info
>easy parts
>cheap parts
After that, the dart is pretty popular, but it does carry the mopar tax.

All your others will be much harder to find parts for, and the 70s thunderbirds are shit.

If you go to the mid to late 60s, it opens up to a bigger selection of vehicles that fit the "easy" criteria.

What do you want to do with it? How do you want to use it? Is comfort more important than fuel economy? What aesthetic do you like? Where's your nearest Craigslist?

>what if i have rough idle, hard hot start, and poor economy
well, that depends on your definition of poor economy. Poor economy in this case may be 6 miles per gallon - contrary to belief the slant was not greatly economical despite being pretty low power. Considering you have the other three symptoms (rough idle / stalling / hot start issues) this is definitely where I'd look for now.

>And im digging these videos. Simple and clear.
They're great, I'm also just pretty autistic about old videos and media in general so I can spend all afternoon watching them. The mymopar.com website has the full archive sorted by genre and type.

>What do you want to do with it?
>How do you want to use it?

Drive around normally, but not like driving all over town. I have a modern car for that lol. I just drive to work, or I drive down the street to get something to eat (or gamestop).

>Is comfort more important than fuel economy?

As long as fuel economy is like between 15 to 20mpg it should be fine. Nothing that rattles too hard.

>What aesthetic do you like?

Hard to say, I like the "70's" look. It's a little boxier. The rear windows definitely have more view.

>Where's your nearest Craigslist?

Phoenix

>between 15 to 20mpg
That's a lot... especially for a 70s car. You should be looking at something small. Less weight is the easiest way to get better mileage

Rings+bearings and find out if it was a rebuild and if yes see if the cam and lifters have been wiped out.

Another person to compete in the f-body grand prix

>asta la Vista, baby

Then your best bet is an early '70s "small" car. I'll look for a few; what's your budget?