QTDDTOT

Pic unrelated edition.

I'm getting ready to sell my shitbox Jeep WJ and the plastics are all faded and look like dogshit. Does any of the wipe on plastic restorer shit work alright? Just going to be selling it, so I'm not worried about longevity. Don't want to put in the effort to paint them or use the heat gun method.

Other urls found in this thread:

carid.com/2013-toyota-tacoma-fog-lights/spyder-projector-fog-lights-312374521.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|Base
carmax.com/car/15012607
collegestation.craigslist.org/cto/d/98-mustang-gt/6487344435.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

Yeah, it will look good for 2 weeks or so

Try using armor all tire shine. The spray bottle stuff. It worked decently for me. Ymmv.

I bought a set of 15 inch sparco terra with 35mm offset. I was told by the vendor that it would fit a base 07/08 forester.

It doesn't. The stock twin piston brakes rub.

Does anyone have experience with these rims? Tomorrow I'm going to try putting them on a car with 4 pots to test. I don't want to drop money on a set of wilwoods. Are there any other smaller brakes that would fit my forester?

Could someone redpill me on Seat. I thought it was so generic it was funny. Whats their target demographic, reputation, and how common or rare are they

Are aluminum driveshafts a meme?

Yes. Get a carbon fiber driveshaft

How do you guys work in the winter without a garage? I've been thinking about walling off my carport with blue tarp and trying to heat that. Would at least keep the rain off.

I tried a couple on my wj plastics and none of them darkened it like I wanted, just made them shiny and faded. The tire shine idea is a good one.

I believe I have a boost leak, but I'm not too sure, and currently to lazy to check; but I'll see if anyone knows what's happening.
Upon half throttle, or whatever, my boost climbs, to lets say .5bar, and then drops instantly to a vacuum. My boost will keep climbing to 1.1, and won't ever hold steady, if I try. Shouldn't there be a point in which I can hold, lets say 10 psi boost, with my throttle at a certain point, or should it always just drop off? Like if I wanted to be at 4500rpm, at 80km/hr, in 3rd with whatever boost.. Or should my boost just drop off instantly I let off the throttle as much?
>is there a way to hold boost, without feathering the throttle I guess

Turn signals on my SW20 light up but they don't blink. Any ideas what might be about? Already tried replacing the bulbs and cleaning the connections to them but that did absolutely nothing.

Try replacing the watchamacallit... the flasher or whatever. They can go bad. They're only a few dollars and are easy to replace.

fuse?

fist car owner, pls no hate :*(

I bought an old Toyota truck. I noticed the coolant level was low, so being the fucking idiot that I am, I stopped on my way home and bought a jug of PRESTONE coolant, supposedly compatible with all vehicles. So I filled it up (not much, not even a half gallon) and when I got home, I got curious , went online...and of course, my truck calls for the Toyota red coolant

What do? I am 100% sure the truck has red coolant (still looks red). This Prestone fuckking thing is green but it says its compatible with all vehicles. Should I be worried? I'm planning on doing a flush anyway once winter is over, am I safe ?

Flasher solenoid first then clean the grounds to the chassis.

It's probably fine. Although if you're low you may have a leak as typically cooling systems don't loose much if any coolant over time.

I used sc Johnson's paste wax. Not specific to cars, but I used it on the interior of a truck that was dirty, dried out, and dusty as shit when I bought it. I thought the plastic around the handle was black and faded. Still thought that after hitting it with armor all. With the paste wax, found out it was maroon.

Toyota Sienna with high mileage. Engine makes a sound which sounds like a shitty belt (high pitched squeel), but only when its in Drive and idling. Checked the belts, seemed good from outside visual inspection. What do

You really should drain and flush your coolant system and refill it with Toyota red or any other universal coolant ASAP, the Prestone stuff is compatible with "All vehicles" in the sense that when used as the sole coolant it won't interfere with the metals in the radiator or coolant system, however if they're mixed with other coolants they can cause unpredictable interactions, specifically if you mix a silicate based coolant (generic green/yellow) and an organic acid based coolant (Toyota red or GM DexCool) it usually causes precipitates to form fairly quickly which can wreck your coolant system, if you really need to top off your coolant and you don't know what's in it you can just add some distilled water if your in a pinch, I had done pretty much the same thing when I bought my 96 Tacoma and when I was looking at the coolant coming out it was fairly cloudy, although it seemed that it had mostly cleared out after a second flushing.

I heard from a old school mechanic that you can brake boost a carburetor if you're good enough
is that true?

Is volvo c30 a decent first car for a student?
found one for 4k euros. is 1.6 diesel too slow?

Could be the belt isn't tight enough and the extra load with it in drive at idle is the perfect sweet spot to screech.

I got a moving violation in Georgia. If I pay it will I get points on my Alabama drivers license?

With a decent torpedo heater that'll do ya, truth be told. Used ones can be had for fairly cheap and theyre pretty easy to fix if needed

Are there any good torque wrenches under $75? All I can find is cheap garbage or overly expensive.

Headed to a car auction next month and have my eyes set on a 2011 Crown Vic, just over 150000kms looks like it was a detectives car. How much should I expect to end up paying for it? I'm looking on a pretty tight budget as I'm just starting a job soon, so I want to know if its even worth my time going.

I get my oil changes at walmart (sorry), and 80% of the time they return the receipt with a "hazardous environment" comment to explain why they didn't check my battery. Roughly similar pic attached, that metal bit covers up the amps it's supposed to get. Is there any chance it's actually "hazardous" or do the techs just not want to unscrew that to see what the amps should be?

Boost requires load. No load means no boost.

You'd have to be, let's say, cruising in top gear where wind resistance is putting a load on the engine. Then you'll see boost stay level. Or drive up a long hill, or accelerate (but then your rpms change).

Why would an oil change include a battery check? They would likely just check to see that it can output roughly enough CCA to start your car, I doubt they'd care what the battery says on it. Just ask them next time wtf "hazardous environment" is supposed to mean.

Has anyone else ever been told that they need a "brake system inspection" before a shop will change rotors and pads?

It's cold here without a garage so I'm literally just willing to pay someone for the labour to save me the trouble. Twice I've been told by separate places that I need to pay 50 bucks for an inspection before they'll quote the job.. I know I need new rotors and pads. It's not a weird vehicle. There's no inspection aspect, just replace my fucking shit.

Is this normal?

What does "QTDDTOT" mean?

questions that don't deserve their own thread

carry over from /g/, but /g/'s threads are now /sqt/ for stupid questions thread

Is downshifting skipping 1 or 2 gears bad? Like, lets saying I am closing in onto a traffic light in 3rd and it turns ember from a distance in which I am just too lazy to do 2>1>N.

Would it be bad to just keep the clutch pressed while breaking all the way down to 0km/h and release the clutch on neutral?

t. Noob.

What car is this? The op tagged it as an 86, but I thought those had flippy lights and were hatchbacks?

>Is downshifting skipping 1 or 2 gears bad?

No. I often go 4 > 2 > N when stopping.

>Would it be bad to just keep the clutch pressed while breaking all the way down to 0km/h and release the clutch on neutral?

I don't see a benefit in keeping the clutch pressed in. Just leave it engaged and shift to N before it starts to lug.

I've got a question, can an aftermarket air filter cause some problems for the engine? My buddy put an aftermarket 10$ ebay one on his opel vectra years ago and it started gulping oil. Im thinking about putting a Pipercross filter on, but am afraid of destroying the engine or shortening the lifespan of some parts

Pic related, its the filter

>dropping multiple gears

If you rev match so your revs are where they should be for the speed you're trying to go in that gear there shouldn't be any issues. Easier to do it properly 1 gear at a time but again if you're accurate it won't matter.

If you can't be arsed to 321N you could probably just drop to neutral and coast/brake from low 3rd to a stop. Don't do it in shitty wet/icey conditions though, downshift properly.

no

It's an AE86 Levin Coupe (?), just not a hatchback

Thanks user, I'm going to fit it on.

Is it legal in Cali to get slightly green headlights like in pic related? And if so anyone know what color it's called?

green

I posted this in Veeky Forums but that seems dead so ill ask it here.
My tacoma didn’t come with factory fog lights, just plastic inserts on the bumper, would this kit come with everything i need to install them?
carid.com/2013-toyota-tacoma-fog-lights/spyder-projector-fog-lights-312374521.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|Base

Yes. An aftermarket filter might not filter the air as well as OEM, so more particulates could make it through the filter and into your engine. Bad for longevity. Also, if it's an oiled filter, the oil can get sucked out of the filter and coat your MAF sensor wire or whatever other shit your MAF may contain. This can cause problems.

How would you rank these as daily drives?
>SS/Commodore
>Stinger
>G37
>IS350
>Charger

Do all 4l60e/65e transmissions have the same output shaft? Planning on swapping newer 5.3/4l65e into older Chevy truck and wondering if the newer tranny will physically bolt to my transfer case (both transmissions are from 4WD vehicles). I can handle wiring everything.

What are these wheels?

How much can I talk down this car, I was able to do 500 down since the seats are ripped and scratches on the car. Is it getting too greedy or should I try to talk down more for the tires.

okay that's what I sort of thought, thanks.

86s came in coupe or hatches, with pop ups or fixed. And different trims as well. That's a levin (fixed lights) coupe, and it's a GT-S

Hayashi CR's, or repos

>Hayashi CR
thank you user

whining noise from my car when im in 5th gear, 1st slips sometimes aswell any ideas?

Anyone have expierience with the crosstrek? They have one for sale it is 2014 ~83,000 miles and $15,500 taxes and all. Is this a good deal?

Hi Veeky Forums help me understand insurance pls.

I have a 1993 Honda Accord 4dr. Through progressive for liability only as follows: Uninsured in the last thirty days, permit holder for under a year, owned the vehicle for only a year, etc. I would have to pay about $800-850 upfront to start the policy on their 6-month package. Where it would come out to about 130-150/mo for insurance.

But I did the same exact settings, but with a 1994 Mazda Miata 2dr convertible (SPORTS CAR), and it came out to 500 upfront to start the policy on a 6-month package, and only $97/mo. Full coverage for the Miata would only be $300 too at these settings.

Why am I paying less insurance for a sports car with two doors and that is a convertible, than some family sedan Honda accord with four doors?

That doesn't make sense. Mind you I am also under 25.

Difference in credit rating between then and now? Different residence (parents house vs your own place)?

No difference in credit. Don't think that's being factored, but I don't know. As for the second, I've been out of my parents since like 18-19 (21 now). Currently in an apartment.

Thoughts on shelby cobras? Here is one I have been eyeing, more of just a curiosity thing because I would not feel good putting myself in debt again so soon after paying off my current car. Friend of mine told me he prefers regular GTs because then he can build it up himself. Always been more of a euro/jap auto fan myself but I have started to get an itch for good old american muscle. Would probably make my life easier when it comes to buying parts and maintaining it compared to my e46.

carmax.com/car/15012607

I've got a Datsun 240z. Engine is an N42 block L28 from a 280z, E31 cylinder head. Previous owners fucked the timing up so i went and re-did the timing and bottom end with new gaskets etc. all was well after the work was completed and it started right up. To do the work I obviously had to remove the cylinder head. the gasket was metal so i reused it and it worked fine. Fast forward about 3 days of driving it and whilst driving a short distance from my house, I get slight power loss and a strange sound coming from the engine. I pull over and check the dipstick and its milky, so head gasket failure. I undo all the work i'd just done, get a new head gasket and fluid flush for coolant and oil and button it all back up. starts and runs again no problem. next day I go to start it up and Bam same fucking problem. I've done this kind of work before and Im fairly certain i didnt fuck anything up on the head install any of the three times ive removed it. would this indicate possible warping/ bad head/bad block? and before you say its an intake leak, Im also fairly certain its not that as its all coming from the passenger side of the block and Im getting coolant in cyl 3, 5 and 6.

if your clutch is slipping in any gear you've got bigger problems, whats the make model and year?
could be throw-out bearing, could be the clutch fork, could be cracked, burnt out, who knows. need more info

Sounds like a warped head to me. I'm guessing an iron head so if it's warped from overheating, your block might need machining as well. It could also be that you're fuckin up the install, but you sound as though you know what you're doing.

There doesn't seem to be a craigslist thread and I want some input on this, so what do you think about this as my first project/highway cruiser?

collegestation.craigslist.org/cto/d/98-mustang-gt/6487344435.html

well, its an aluminum head but admittedly they're both very old at 41 and 48 years old so I suppose warping is possible. It's bizarre. I more or less know that its pretty much certain I need to replace the block, I just wanted to see if anyone else had ideas about what else could be killing the seal. only other thing i can think of is intake gasket and im fairly confident that the intake doesn't actually pass any coolant into the cylinder head itself. just back into the thermostat housing. I'm at a loss

Warped head and you reused the old head bolts. Either that or you didn’t tighten down in the correct sequence

did the sequence by the books and to correct spec going 15-50-61 and had new ARP head studs. not to shit on the devils advocate, just covering my bases

Alloy heads, especially old ones, warp pretty easy, m8. I'd bet my left nut that that's your issue.

Seats are generally seen as the poor man’s VW, except the leon cupra R, a hot hatch with ‘Spanish flair’ kinda like muh Italian passion. The cupra is actually a good car, sort of a less clinical GTI

thats a massive bummer considering its such a rare cylinder head and has great characteristics for the L series block. I suppose all I can do is take it to a machine shop and see what they make of it? could they tell me whether or not its usable? not to mention, I'm kind of attached to its sentimentally.

You can only ask. I'd imagine that it will cost you more to properly machine than it will to source a good condition used one.

i bet you're right. I'll call around. Hopefully I can find a shop thats willing to just charge me maybe a little to tell me whether or not it still within usable tolerances. I've already sourced a replacement block for cheap thankfully

If it's an iron block with alloy head, it's most likely fine.

now im conflicted, but yeah, My theory is the block is bad, not the head. But thats partially my wishful thinking because this head is worth half the value of the car.

Your alloy head out be absolute warped and fucked before an iron block even warped slightly

maybe a crack then, rather than being warped. because neither had any trouble seating on the alignment dowels and the gaskets would hold up for a time. Without deluding myself because im happy to replace anything but the head haha, they're very expensive compared to the rest of the parts. I'm partially curious if the cooling system pressure could also be too high. the stock cooling system pressure I believe is 13 psi, but my mishi rad is 19. I wonder if its putting too much stress on it. But that really wouldn't make sense considering it was all fine before. I'm just spitballing here and you have an irrefutable fact backing you up, in that the Iron is leagues tougher.

Did you know the engine before the previous owner ruined the timing? If you can confirm that it wasn't overheated and running fine before the timing was put out, your head should be fine.

yeah thats the case. He had done his own lazy timing job because tackling the bottom end and front cover was too much for him i guess? it was halfway through exhaust when the firing order was set for it to be compressing at that time. it wasn't burning all the fuel and was running pretty rich, but otherwise ran just fine with no power loss until higher RPM, like nearing redline where the advance became too much. The engine was perfectly fine in it of itself during those 2-3 months it stayed like that before I knew how to rectify it. So other than fixing the timing, all the work I did save for the head worked out just fine, front cover is tighter than virgin poon, same with the pan and such. the only new variable is the damn head gasket will not keep a seal now. I used the same brand and model gasket as the one it had on when it worked previosuly with no head leaks.

I wish I could help, buddy but you're on your own.

heh, that seems to be the consensus. I appreciate your letting me bounce ideas of you though user. I'll ride off into the sunset til the motor blows for good.

Noticed my shitbox was making pinging sound at about 3-4k wot so I retarded it about 5-10 degrees, the pinging is gone, but I'm worried it might be too much. If I set it back where it was before and then retard it just enough that the pinging is gone it should be about right, right?

5-10 degrees isn't all that much at all. in terms of actual cam timing. I wouldn't stress about it unless you're actually losing power/response

Because my Envoy sounds like a shitty tricycle with rust, I'm going to replace the wheel bearings. I've identified that it's the front left. Can I replace just the front left or is it like tires and I have to replace all of them on a 4WD?

whats the difference between mid engine rear wheel drive and rear engine rear wheel drive? has it got to do with if the engine is place infront or behind the rear axle?

Thanks for the extensive answer user, I will try to get more information on this topic.

Where does it rub? Top or outside? If it's the side you can get some small spacers. If it's the top maybe you can grind it down some. People do it all the time. Or return/resell them and get wheels that fit

weight distribution and gearbox type. dont think the engine is ever behind the axle.

in addition to what and said, i've heard that you shouldn't re-use steel gaskets much more than 3 times

>charger
if you're talking about 2005 and up i recommend them as satisfying cheap cars. been driving my v6 for 2,5 years and recently got the v8 which i was extremely disappointing for a number of reasons. mainly fuel cost as 1 liter of gas is 2 dollars and the extra power won't do anything extra unless you're towing something.

my complaints are:
-fucks up all rubber in your suspension. the rubber bushing had completely sheared off my chrysler300c (same car as the charger) making it even more floaty
-small brake rotors in the front. especially on v6
-noisy v6 hydraulic lash adjusters
-won't drift unless you add a switch to the stability control (super easy to fix though)
i can answer all questions about this car so ask away if you need answers

No. Total wallet drainer.

t. Indy euro mechanic

Nope. Try precision instruments for the best bang for your buck

This is total BS. Go to an independent shop, not a chain

You can replace just the one

I wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot pole.
Why the fuck would you have someone that size of bare metal on your battery?

My 700r4 slips like a motherfucker at low speeds when i just give it a bit of gas. If i give it a decent amount of gas it does just fine, shifts smoothe as butter even under wot. what could the problem be?

What are some things to look out for when buying a 350z? Owner neglect etc, but model issues and all that. I know I should get like a 2008 for the engine but anything else?

I have my service due in a month, my front two tires are around 3.4 tire depth. The legal limit is 1.6ml. I've hear certain manufacturers will not accept tires less than 4ml to pass a service. Within the next four months I plan on getting a new car however I want my service stamp. Do I buy the tires and go for the service or take the chance, I'm assuming the manufacturer would price the tires much higher than I could find online. If I don't get my service stamp my warranty becomes invalid and it doesn't look to good on the second hand market. Do you think 3.4ml would be enough to get my stamp with some sort of warning?

UK and its a Kia

>start truck
>put in gear
>slave cylinder acting fucky
>stop 6 inches from where I started
>try restart
>no power
>open hood, fix negative terminal
>back in cab, restart
>key cylinder locked, wheel locked
What. The fuck. Happened?

Is it normal for a diesel to not get up to temperature in winter? Car in question is a 2014 Skoda Octavia with the very common VAG 2.0TDI 110kw. In temperatures below -5C it takes really long for it to warm up and when it gets to -10C and below oil temperature wont go over 70C (90-95C is normal). If i drive it quite hard it gets to 80 but cruising at city speeds at around 1250 rpm it just stays at 65C. Standing in traffic jams it drops very quickly and the idle is above 1k rpm which is not normal.
If i keep driving it like this, am i damaging the engine, dpf and cats?

that'd only be an advisory for a MOT, service techs don't give a shit, although the sales people my push you to get new tyres.

might be a VAG thing, as my seat mii does that normal is 90's but stayed at 70,

they might do it to warm all the coolant up so it doesn't shock the block.

scrap that, looking around it might be a thermostat that's shat the bed.

thermostat on a 2014 car? I will google it but i find it very unlikely.
coolant gauge gets to 50C and stays there until oil gets to 50, then coolant goes to 90.

Went to bleed the clutch, and the fluid that came off the purge valve was brown tinted. Did that mean rusted lines or like what's going on here?

Toyota sillycar 96, about 195k kms