/CCG/ - Classic Car General

i was fortunate enough they made relatively cheap pans for my ford

fabbing your own wouldnt be TOO difficult but def not recommended if you have little skill or experience doing it. surely there are some donor cars or even sheet metal you can purchase online

show us what your working with as far as the floor plans go

car's not with me just yet. I should have taken pictures when I got up to it, but I have to drive it the 3 hours home first. I've been looking around online for originals, or adaptable aftermarket pans, but I can't find anything that is definitively compatible with a ranchero. I also can't find out whether or not rancheros use the same interior as an LTD II of the same year. it's possible they use similar floor pans, however I can't find pans for that car either.

I can however get sheet metal locally for a pretty good price from an independent shop.

thankfully the frame and engine are in fantastic shape and getting it home shouldn't be an issue.

200$ is not bad nowadays
Replace the tapco looking stock with wood and get a stock magazine and it would be great.

>email guy about car
>can I see it/where is it
>site let him put first half of area code
>could be 15min to 3hrs
>he lowers price on ad
>never responds to email
it's been like 4 days so I guess I call him tomorrow? Doesn't seem like the cars going anywhere the ads been up for over a month it says

I'd recommend you get an original internal magazine, after market external magazine are awful at best, it's probably just going to jam constantly, if it even fits to begin with.

Make it look like this.

Looks like a High Toe pattern. Pinion needs less shim to bring the pattern towards the Heel (think like a mirror because the contact is on the other side from you), and the carrier needs to move right to get the center down into the teeth more

strawpoll.com/d7fa23hg

lets see where everyone is.

AZ reporting.

Think ill notice a difference in looks and performance if i move up from 195/75r14 to 215/75r14 in the back of my dart? Its a less than an inch wider and almost 1.5 inches taller?

Also, what do yall think the best configuration for an exhaust would be for my dart? Its all going to be a 6 into 1, but im trying to decide if i should keep it single or Y pipe to duals? And then should i have them out the back? The side? Or infront of the rear wheel? Chrome tips or nah?

Okay that makes sense. But will de-shimming the pinion increase back lash? Because my back lash is .001 currently, and moving the carrier right is only going to make that tighter.

I'm a big fan of side pipes personally, would do it for sure if I could. Right now I have duals dumping down right behind rear axle and there's just 2 things I don't like about it
>rear of car is always dirty because exhausts blow straight down in startup and make a dust cloud every time
>harder to simply visibly detect exhaust problems like blue or black smoke because I really gotta get under there to to look. Additionally this also results in me getting gassed like fuck because I have to get on all fours down there and basically stick my face in it versus full length where I could just glance in the mirror and see my exhaust

I personally got 4-1 on both sides running to a Y pipe and high flow cat then back to dual "performance mufflers" and curved down to the floor. Maybe one of these other guys can explain backpressure and shit because i only have a vague understanding of it but it was important since I'm supercharged

Side pipes on a slant 6 would be interesting haha.

I agree with the hidden dumps, they do have some issues. I doubt i have to worry about back pressure due to my low compression.

Personally, id still would love to jack the front end up and run the gasser exhaust out the front wheels just for shits and giggles, but that wont work.

...

Yes

Southern commiefornia reporting

Where at

Michigan

Well, take it one step at a time and you may find correcting the pinion depth fixes the other issues too.

Just north of san Bernardino

Georgia

tfw corvair is either.

>blew a rivet on the flywheel and grinding the clutch
>broke a finger on the pressure plate and grinding the clutch
>grinding the throwout bearing

Almost stalled today despite pushing the clutch because it wouldn't disengage. Time to pull the entire drivetrain.

Texas.

Got a question for gear bro. If i swap my open carrier for a limited slip carrier while keeping the same gears can it be a DIY job

You will have to press bearings onto the new carrier and might have to play with carrier shims and adjust backlash. You'll at least need a dial gauge to check back lash. May end up having to adjust pinion depth too. I'm not 100% sure though. Depends how different the carriers are really.

I'm just answering with my minimal knowledge on differential building because gear bro may or may not be around soon.

yes but you need to adjust the backlash bang-on.

if you have a banjo-type rear end (it looks like a banjo and has a removable center section) It's as easy as knocking out the driveshaft, pulling the center section, then adding the new one.

Its a GM 10 bolt

>GM 10 bolt
Sorry bud, looks like you have a C-Clip type axle.
You have your work cut out for you but it's not that bad. It can be done at home.
I suggest actually dropping the axle housing out of the car so you have a much better time of it and don't have a stiff neck the next day.

hotrodders.com/forum/gm-8-5-10-bolt-ring-pinion-swap-96007.html

It looks like for a 10 bolt you'll need a press for the bearings as Nippon said unless the bearings are already pressed on from your source.

itstillruns.com/measure-gear-backlash-10031670.html

Just be happy it's not hard to do on the vair
I'm really happy about the gas milage I'm getting with the 2004r, it's a notable difference.

>Just be happy it's not hard to do on the vair
>dropping the transaxle isn't hard
The more i think about it the more stress zits i get.
I have no idea how to do it or if i could ever get it back in.

What? Replacing a clutch?

On a Corvair the only way to do it is to drop the entire drivetrain.

While i'm doing it though i might as well get rid of the hideous 4.11 gears.

>tfw finally got my new rear window installed

Anybody have recommendations on nice exhaust headers for a Pontiac 350? Looking for a bit more flow and less rust than my original stock headers have. I don’t care much for massive power gains, but these stock ones are known to be a bit restrictive at higher RPMs, and I wouldn’t mind a bit more burble.

What're u putting in instead?

When you get your new headers, whatever they may be, paint them with VHT paint and run them for like 10 minutes only.

Roadkill did that and actually got the paint to stick.

Probably 3.55's, it would help out tremendously and they're the most common.

4.11s on 13 inch wheels are a nightmare to a Corvair, especially in terms of engine heat.

Some day i want to put a 4.3 V6 in, i'd go down to 3.08s for that.

The carrier im looking at already has bearings pressed and ive removed a few diffs from cars so that shouldnt be too difficult. If anything needs to be pressed theres a machine shop in town that gives a very good rate

Did you sell the corvette Drac? Don't see it on craigslist

Yep; made a couple bucks off of it, too, so I'm buying that '60 Plymouth.

nice. After looking at the other ones on CL right now, yours was definitely the cleanest for the price. I'm finally fixing the PS leak on my Celica, but worried I might have an oil pressure issue, new sending unit will tell me. After it's trouble free I might sell it to downsize. Not sure if I should then also sell my Furys and go for this '70 Torino. I was gonna try to get the Fury to 13 seconds, but I didn't realize the 2dr still weights 3600lbs. Surprisingly the '70 Torino only weighs 3200. Given up on the idea of an Olds for now, I'm just going to drive the lincoln in the meanwhile, can't beat the ride and gas mileage for DD.

car in question:
sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/1970-ford-torino/6489936576.html

Always loved the noses on these cars, looks like a fighter jet. The ivory/black vinyl combo is sexy as well

>'60 Plymouth
Dank

>have endoscopy
>there is a small hernia, not enough to suggest surgery
>wait and see if symptoms subside
>doc sent out samples for some redness

>get something from hospital
>throat feels like nails, not sure if from scope or illness
>running high fever now
>mfw

Damn that looks like a biotch. Kind of reminds me of how a clutch job will have to be done on my c5 corvette. The rear subframe has to be dropped with the trans/diff assembly to get the torque tube out. Though its at 136k and no signs of clutch issues yet. Did you have a total failure on yours?

If you have oil pressure issues, I'm here to be the bearer of bad news that you probably have trashed main bearings. My Bronco has low oil pressure I found the bearings were smoked when I did a rear main seal. I'm not going to do anything about it until it starts knocking or blows up though.

The People's Republic of New Jersey

The closest thing Veeky Forums has ever gotten to a nation wide meet is the Dirty Jersey meets, we've had people from as far away as Michigan show up.

My truck turns 25 tomorrow. Should I bake it a cake?

>Did you have a total failure on yours?
I'm within 100 miles of one.

>If you have oil pressure issues, I'm here to be the bearer of bad news that you probably have trashed main bearings
this is on the '89 celica, the motor was apparently rebuilt about a year ago. I have the paperwork and everything. Seller said it was the gauge, which is what the rebuilders told him, but I was always a bit leery... put a few hundred miles on it so far but I got scared. Mechanic I spoke to said if it does have low pressure, it's most likely the pickup is just clogged, but you never know. If it's not the gauge, and the pressure is actually low, I'm probably going to have some words with the "specialists" who rebuilt it. And I'm concerned it is low pressure, because the top end is noisy.

Off topic, apparently a fever over around 102 or 103 post-surgery could be the sign of a serious condition, including malignant hyperthermia, which has an untreated mortality rate of 75%. So, nice shitposting with you guys, lol...

Don't forget to update your will

Speaking of oil pressure...

>Be digging around in my shed
>Find an ancient two-position gauge bracket
>hmmmm, i do have that garbage oil pressure gauge and garbage voltmeter...
>Hey I can stick these on the Rabbit
>Proceed to do so
>Afro-engineer gauges in front of the giant hole where the radio used to be
>Start engine
>100 psi
>ONE HUNDRED
>That can't be right.
>Pull everything apart, put in an old 80 psi Stewart Warner gauge
>Start engine, peg gauge
>Guess the garbage gauge wasn't lying.

tl;dr 100 psi oil pressure at cold idle. What gives?

don't the gauge and the sending unit have to be matched? Like, the range has to be the same? I'm having this issue myself, just in case it's not the sender but the gauge itself on my car, I want to know if I can hook up a cheapo gauge to the new sender.

It's one of them cheapo shitty gauges that uses an oil line from the engine right into the back.

It's gonna get a real sending unit/gauge combo soon, I'm not too hot on the idea of hot pressurized oil in the cab.

why you fuckers gotta be so scattered?
Western Washington here
looks like if any meets were to happen with more than 3 people theres gonna be some serious road tripping

Cold oil or blocked passages

Does anyone post in that dirty jersey facebook group? I joined but no one posts anything. All the other cool states have like weekly meets and shit. I wanna do that too.

I'll go do a bit of looking at specs but I _think_ as long as the sending unit's range and the meter's range line up it should be fine.

oil pump bypass might not be working right or its not adequate to purge excess pressure when cold thick oil is in it.
your oil pressure stable when at temp?

That's what I meant, not sure where to look to find this range though. I couldn't find the specs in the description of most sending units online

Ahhh, this is a good idea, I could up one of those from harbor freight and know the problem real quick.

I thought there were 4 or 5 texas anons, myself included

>got home today and it was like fuckin Christmas
>power steering mounting bracket arrived
>tachometer gauge wire arrived
>tail light lense in living room
>kydex grip for ak arrived
>motivated gym shirt arrived

And thennnnn my job says I'm working 7 days a week the next few months non stop. Suddenly regret getting this shirt.

On a flip note using the nastyz28 charts I deduced my camaro weighs about 3600lbs minus a few since o have ripped out a bunch of shit and replaced components with lighter shit. How much horsepower and torque (with the right gears) y'all reckon it would take to make this thing fast?

The shirt

what kind of tacky tryhard la raza shit is this

are you some kind of beandip

I obviously am I drive a 79 camaro with a lever action shotgun under the seat

I reckon if you were to replace the engine, transmission, wheels, brakes, windshield, and rest of the car you could have something fast for about $30K.

u should be driving a slammed Malibu on baskets ese

is that you?

Definitely cold. ~55° ambient.

It sits at ~40 psi warm idle. This was measured when the engine was at operating temp. Not sure how hot the actual oil was, I only drove the car ~3 miles to get it warmed up. Even so, at 45 mph in overdrive (about 2000 rpm according to my calculations) it was around 70-75 psi.

I'll try running 10w30 diesel oil in there now that I know where to get it.

Wait what? Your making things harder fo yourself mate.

corvairforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5690

This thread has a few links that should prove useful to you.

No it's my Michigan reaction image.

Some faggot post pictures of me on here from time to time but no one seems to realize. I still haven't found out which one of my friends does it.

Somebody is going to piece it together someday and figure out which dealership I work for, and mail a bag of dildos to me there.

I have those peedeeffs. It's still quit intimidating.

70psi is a ok range to be in under running load, and 40 is a decent idle pressure.
get on it later and see if it spikes way up or not if its stable max at 70-75
if its spiking up with more revs id be real suspect of the relief valve, any idea if the oil pump is a high volume unit?

texas is a fucking roadtrip in itself, got some family around there. its a seemingly endless state with no corners

blog update: I'm still alive unfortunately. Also bought a cheapo mechanical gauge to check my pressure

you're right about texas, houston to dallas alone is like 5 hrs and that's not even half the state. Off the top of my head, brownsville to amarillo is probably 12 hours

With Fords a straight swap like that is a no-brainer. GM's are variable, and more often than not you have to do some shim work to get the backlash right. All you can do is try it and see what you get but be ready for some more work than just the swap. Even then it shouldn't take too long, like an hour or so because you should only need to goof with the carrier shims a bit. Assuming you have shims on hand of course.

I took out one by myself when I was in middle school so I am confident you can figure it out.
I'm rooting for you buddy

Gonna need 400hp minimum to start being considered quick at 10lbs/hp. 500 would be closer to it though. Going for big cubes at lower rpm tends to be more durable over time. Going for hp via rpm is snappier and feels more exciting but doesn't last as long. If you're paying attention you can tell such engines are a bit off in as little as 5000 miles because the valvetrain has to be spot on and things wear quickly when you've got enough spring in one to really control big valves at high rpm.

Mmmm interesting. Now I wanna dyno and see where I'm at. The car always felt nice and snappy off the line but I've got no baseline to test against since all I've ever driven are shitboxes

Anecdotally i whooped my friend in his 07 wrx sti which is supposedly rated at 300hp and 3300lbs and awd. And that was naturally aspirated with stock exhaust and stock transmission and ignition system too and open diff on presumably the stock 3.42 gears. He's been driving it for a while now but it might have just been user error.

Thanks m8. Do you have any tips, things that you got hung up on that you can tell me about?

It would be neat to put together a group of enthusiasts for a video of an Veeky Forums race a-la Cannonball Run.

we wouldn't have to worry about cops because most of our cars don't run.

Texas user here. South Texas might as well be another state

Sorry, bud, I can't find shit on sending unit specs. I'll keep digging after work tonight, since this is something I've been curious about for the longest time.

Im a Texan forced to be in Alabama... do i count?

Motard?
Id think it would already be fast?

So i ordered some 215/75r14s for the dart in hopes that ill get a little rake and drop a few hundred RPMs on the highway. Next up are some decals, radio, and an exhaust.

Should i go for the typical trunk stripe, or are there any other designs that would look good on a swinger?

>70psi is a ok range to be in under running load, and 40 is a decent idle pressure.
Cool. I'll drive it to work today and see what it is after it's been running for more than 15 minutes.

>any idea if the oil pump is a high volume unit?
Dude i have NO fucking clue. Doubt it though, since the last owner did practically nothing to it. Still cleaning up his mess lol

>bag of dildos
Fortunately, this isn't reddit.

Nah 5 year 1 and done-er. I met the guy that owns the company and he gave me a free shirt before so I decided to buy one off him too support his business. He also promotes a local veteran owned business that's owned by my wife's good friend

I poked some numbers with a stick and this is what came out.
Your 195 to 215 tire swap will get you about 100 RPM at 70 mph.
If you were to swap your rear gear to a 2.76 ratio (Automatic Dartiant standard) you'd gain about 400 RPM.
Of course, that might also turn your slug into a glacier.

Yeah. Nobody's even texted me after I shared the Craigslist ad for my car. You've got nothing to worry about.

Roadtrips are twice as long if you live in Texas, because half of the trip is getting out of this fucking state.

Yes, hot oily loads in my face please.

I was tempted to once but figured nah