How do I make Miatas fast

How do I make Miatas fast

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tarbo or engine swap

I'm sorry

LS swap

downhill or heavy cornering areas then git good, only challenge people in these circumstances

Step 1 don't buy a miata

Go downhill.

this.
Miata is as fast as its driver.

Turbocharged which is the easy way.

the challenging way to make it fast is to take driving lessons. Like Skip Barber or something equivalent to it.

Get fit.

Really. You can even really notice 10kg less when driving these.

Redline the car on twisty roads and then consider more power.

Eh, I personally wouldn't invest thousands of dollars into classes. I'd rather invest that into parts. I'm a trial and error type of guy; take it out and run through a road/track over and over to get better. That's what worked for me but I can't really speak for everyone else.

>I personally wouldn't invest thousands of dollars into classes

and thats why you'll never evolve as a driver. Skills learned outlast the parts bought for whatever car you have at the moment. But different strokes for different folks. Its possible to also have both.

Did dafumi need classes?

>this is why you’ll never get better as a driver, cause you need to be told how to drive

I don't know if you're aware of this, but did you know that Initial D is a cartoon?

>dafumi

Do you mean Takumi, the fictional character? from that terrible Japanese cartoon? Is that what you are referring to?

It takes repetition/seat time to actual ever get good at racing regardless if you are taught or not. The fact is you probably have never raced on a track yourself with an actual car.

Meme/shitpost all you want but you'll forever be an unskilled drive.

nice trips, and solid advice. I just need to get my car into trackable condition first. reliability and cooling mods ftw

>get VR headset
>get a serviceable wheel, pedals, and H-shifter for your pc
>run in the iracing mx5 cup
>touge in asetto corsa

Once (if) you git gud, spend money on real track time

By that logic remove the spare wheel and passenger seat, you won't be needing it anyway.

Supercharge or ls swap

And that logic would be correct. Who's gonna race a car with a spare tyre in the back?

...

A dude in Australia does fully installed and road legal turbo kits that he claims makes 250rwhp. I'm sure you'd need to put some work into the gearbox and diff if you're gonna double the power they're taking tho.

fuck off nerd

>miata
>Skip Barber

Drive it off a fuckin cliff

start by not calling it a miata, faggot.

Don't listen to any of these fugs in this thread, this is how you REALLY make a Miata faster:

-Winking headlights mod: An easy 10 horsepower increase when you press the wink button, the more elaborate the winking patterns, the better. However, you cannot stack wink buffs, they have a cooldown of (and last for) two minutes.

-Black Ice mod: A single Black Ice tree increases your base horsepower by 5%, but every additional one only increases by half the previous amount, ie 2.5%, then 1.25%, etc. HOWEVER, a 3D black ice tree (which is two black ice trees cut halfway through and snapped together) will warrant a 10% increase, and the increase will be doubled if you douse each tree in an entire bottle of black ice spray.

-Anime / /osg/ stickers: 5HP increase, each additional one adds half from the last. However, Initial D stickers will add 3HP consistently, Tofu sticker will add 5HP, no doubles allowed.

-Googly eyes mod: This allows you to take corners at 80% of your previous straight line speed, for example if you were going 100 before doriftoing, you'll make the turn at 80.

-EUROBEAT: You must blast Eurobeat while you drive, and the loudness determines the HP increase. As a rule, every decibel equates to 1% more horsepower, so if you're blasting at 20decibel, your Miata is making 20% more horsepower.

Now let's do the math. Assuming you have the 1.8L BP engine, you're making 129HP stock. Let's say your Miata has WAT, Certified Shitbox, Tofu, Lonely Drivers, and Akina Speedstars stickers. 5+2.5+5+3+3=18.5 additional horses, for 147.5. Then you do a wink to give you a one minute increase of 10HP to 157.5. Now you have a 3D doused black ice tree, giving an additional 20% for 189HP. If you're blasting Eurobeat at 50db, you're going to get a 50% increase for 283.5 horsepower. That power, combined with your 80% cornering speed buff, and you'll be unbeatable on the toe-gay.

or ls swap it if you wanna larp as ken block

youre the one that watches a cartoon

Whats ur definition of fast?
High hp or good handling?

15x7's, semi slicks, non-trash coilovers or koni + ground control + springs, catback and timing advance. Then leave it alone.

this guy knows what hes talking about. front sway and a bushing kit and youre basically built.

Viper v10, transmission, and differential swap.

Not the retard talking about initial d, but yeah I essentially just hit the same roads repeatedly late at night and that helped me get the feel for how to enter and exit a turn based on sharpness of it. After months of it in different cars I feel like I got it down to an art form. Good part is it’s secluded as hell so there’s no worry about other people possibly getting injured or cops.

this guy knows whats up

Chur.

Front swaybar brace wouldn't hurt, either. Those stock mounts geat pretty cheesy once you start giving it assholes.

good post

can someone translate this post to a mechanically illiterate retard please. i am learning about cars atm so i dont know half the stuff you guys talk about.

>wheels that are 15 inches in diameter and 7 inches wide
>tyre that are as close to a slick as you can be while still be street legal
>adjustable suspension upgrade
>a new exhaust system from the catalytic converter back
>making the fuel detonate earlier in the power stroke for better performance

thanks friend

EL ES SWAP HURRHURR

and you still aren't as skilled as you think

Fast is a money pit that ends in a graveyard.

You can achieve zen when you stop caring about benchracers and the bad feelings when someone overtakes you.

Enjoy yourself man.

uk faggot here

new to cars, apparently MX5 seems GOAT fun for a rustbucket that I can toy around with

could any uk boys give me any advice regarding this listing?


ebay co.uk/itm/1991-Mazda-Mx5-1-6/132518178255?hash=item1edab2edcf:g:uzUAAOSwhMJakxVM


I asked him about it's history/why he's selling

quote


"I bought the car in September to use whilst I took my other mx5 off the road. The owner before me was an older gentleman who had owned it since 2003. I'm currently the 4th owner of the car. Unfortunately the previous owner didn't keep any receipts so I have no proof of what works been done. He claimed to service it and maintain it no matter the cost , I'm a mechanic and have no reason to doubt this as many parts like the exhaust and brakes look to have been changed recently. The sills have been replaced at some point and the car has been fully rust treated on the underside. The only work I've done on the car is to change the alternator for a second hand one as it was making a noise."

lel

>skipbarber.com/programs/
tell me what cars you see pictured here

>bought my first car this week
>its a NA
am i gay now, I really like it compared to the RIO i've been driving before

...

F

19e14d41ec9295f7f559587b634de98cccf8969e

Goodnight, Dr. Rotation

UK user and mx5 owner here, seems a bit steep so try and knock 600+ off if you can. Failed it's mot in may 2016 for excessive rust (front inner and outer subframe, both rear suspension mounts, sills and inadequate sill repairs) so it's far from clean even if it's had work done. More likely that they just waxoiled over the rust and it passed for not looking too rusty on the surface as it was passed the next day (no way any of that was fixed in a day). Scene tax is retarded these days, five years ago that would have been a £600 car.

1uzfe swap so it's still all JDM

More snowflake points than a LS swap as wel

If he didn't have a drunken dad beating him every night every time he fucked up he would've needed them

Thank you for the advice user! What's the tool you used to discover it's MOT history?

Sell it and buy something else or

gov.uk/check-mot-history

You can also check tax status, insurance status and not status and history on the gov website. It's super useful to know the history of cars (it's often not how the seller describes) but rust is rife in 5's. You will probably better looking on on mx5oc or mx5nutz, often better deals and enthusiast owned cars.

you don't, keep it NA, a few mods to get 200hp at the crank, and spend on coilovers, tyres, diff, unless you're at the track you can't really go faster than 80mph, so make it handle the best it can.

turbo, V6, and LS miatas are fucking retarded,

What about skills learnt from installing said parts?

user I hope your gf is smoking hot cause u deserve it

You get a faster car or you get a faster transmission and engine.

I bought my MX5 at the right time.
In 2015 I paid £410 for a 1995 1.8 Jap import.
The price of them seems to have doubled or tripled in the last few years.

I wouldn't be afraid of a buying a shitty one.
The sills rust on all of them so don't let that put you off, hoods are easy to replace. There's loads of cheap parts so its probably cheaper to get a bad one up to spec than buying a fully sorted one. Especially of you want to strip out the interior or turbo the engine anyway.

>few mods to get 200hp at the crank
No.
To get to 200hp at the crank on an atmo setup would cost at least double the cost of a decent turbo setup.

seat time > anything else.

If you don't care about seat time, do you really like driving your cars or just the culture around it?

confirmed for never working on a car before.

what are these few simple mods to bring an NA 1.6 mx5 to 200 fucking hp without a turbo

Sleep tight, Aniki.

Sleep, Aniki.

You may lose everything you put into a car from one crash, but you will never lose seat time

even if you make the car more powerful, your skills as a driver suffer and you can't use the full potential you've added. You have to drive to get good at driving.

exactly. This nigga knows.

I'll never understand the super fast car meme. Isn't the point of driving a sports car to have fun revving the engine and shifting through gears? Whats the point if you're going twice the speed limit in 5 seconds? I don't want it just to be fun on the drag strip or the open road. I want to rag on it when I'm going to kroger to get milk or whatever.

meh, I've gotten better watching racing instruction on youtube and practicing on sims. A lot of that info applies well to daily driving, and has made me enjoy driving so much more.

A running engine does like 50 decibel or so by itself broski.

Gentlemen, is the Miata actually the gayest car ever made?

50db is pretty damn quiet, actually. Average American talking to a TV is 60db.

Gayest? Not sure, but to truly enjoy a Miata you have to first accept that it's VERY gay

It's not very masculine, no, but nor is it trying to compensate for the drivers insecurities like a cuckmonster 2500 V8 USA USA USA USA.

no

Its quite possibly one of the manliest cars since you, yourself have to be manly enough to sit in and drive it without being transformed into a gigantic ball licking soyboy cuck the moment you click the seatbelt. That means you need insane testosterone levels and balls to not begin the transformation. Not to mention girls find miatas and other similiar cute cars irresistable.

If you want gay cars look at lifted trucks, corvettes and other angry looking cars. You can be the worlds biggest faglord and in fact sit behind the steering wheel, suck off elton john and watch gay parade livestream and other men would still go "woooow coool caar" while girls give 0 fucks.

How much do alcoholics dads go for these days?

>tarbo

Define fast. I'm going to assume you mean around a track, and I'm going to assume you're a novice driver.

First level of upgrades:
Short shifter
Stiffer springs and new struts
New bushings
Sport brake pads
New brake fluid

Second level:
Coilovers
Wheels and sticky tires
Good Street brake pads
Vented rotors
SS Brake lines
DOT4 Brake Fluid swap
Pod filter
Full exhaust

Third Level:
Turbo kit
Roll Bar
Weight reduction (seats, spare tire, radio, ect)
Rear lip or spoiler
LSD and rear from the 1.8 if you don't have one

Fourth Level:
Built turbo motor
Serious weight reduction (carpet, dash, etc)
Front splitter
Rear diffuser
Flat underbody
WRX Brake upgrade/Big brake kit
Race brake pads

Fifth level:
LS Swap
Full cage

lol @ this list and its fake "levels"

a lightly modified miata with an LSD and a seasoned driver behind the wheel will smoke some dumbass who decided to ls swap their Miata and has little to no seat time.

You need to stop playing Forza.

would miata really benefit a lot from short shifter? i mean, shifter feels pretty nice as it is, and it's not long at all

and roll bar is first thing you should get after fixing up basic stuff

good naps, doritofag

I don't disagree with you. Driver skill is much more important. But OP asked how to make a Miata fast, so I answered it in five different ways depending on how hardcore he wants to be.
No duh I made up these "levels", I did it because it's easy to understand and gives someone with little knowledge a good base.
That's a nice blue NA though.

A short shifter is 50% for driver feel, and 50% for faster shifting times. You won't see a big benefit but it will feel nice and help train a new driver to make cleaner and quicker shifts. The OEM shifter in the Miata is decent, but with how damn cheap short shift kits are, I think it's worth it.
Personally I don't think you NEED a roll bar until you start adding power to the car, but a roll bar is never a bad idea to start with.

with stock flywheel you won't really shift much faster. or am i wrong?

and device that saves you from accidental decapitation is very desirable, even if you don't plan on flipping your car

Yes, and you have to accept it if you want to own one. There's no escape from that.

It's very difficult to flip a Miata with stock power levels. But again, I agree it's not a bad idea.
A short shifter is more for creating good driving habits and driver pleasure. I also think it makes the shifts easier which means your concentration is on the road for a greater percentage of time. You might shift slightly faster.

Not really though. Racing comes naturally to some people.

shut your dumb ass up before I smack the shit out of you.

Takumi had been tofu delivering since he was old enough to reach the pedals and so had about 8 or 9 years of hard experience on the Akina route before the series even started. This is a major plot element.

That's how I can tell you know nothing about miata's if you think a short shift is necessary. OEM shifter with a new or upgraded brass bushing is everything you'll need in terms of shifter modification other than a knob to your taste.

restful nights Prof. Rotato

Lrn2drive

Professional driving instruction with track time, is the best value in making your car faster.

I LITERALLY SAID IT DOESN'T REALLY HELP WITH SHIFTS. Holy shit dude actually read my fucking post. The OEM shifter is good and yes, brass (or even just new OEM) bushings are a great upgrade. HOWEVER, that doesn't mean that a short shifter won't help a new driver learn how to shift quicker and cleaner. Considering it's less than $50 and it helps you become a better driver, I personally believe it is worth the money.

is lightweight flywheel a good idea for miata that's daily driven? i'm casually taking it to the track, so if it helps with handling, i'm gonna enjoy it a lot. people often say about how it somehow makes engine run "in uncivilized manner" and stuff - i don't really care about some extra vibrations or noise as long as it's kept in reasonable levels.

so you're telling me he had experience.

exactly.

fucking idiot.

lrn2drive fgt