/CCG/ - Classic Car General

>open the next best video with a towing setup in the thumbnail
>tows a Challenger with a Firebird and breaks down, most of the episode consists of a steaming engine bay
My kinda guy.

Granted, the engine is pretty worn out. I think in one of his q&a videos he said he had nearly 400,000 miles on the body and like 200,000 on the motor.

Ideas for later editions

Ive got 5 considered vehicles in mind.

Trade truck in for
>69 torino
>71 vette with 4spd
>77 trans am

And keep dart as 2nd car, or sell it and buy a cheap truck.

Or keep the taco, sell dart and get a small loan to cover the difference.
>the nicer 2nd gen with 410s
>or similar 2nd gen, but with a 454, double pumper, roll cage drag car.

what's the best way to go about building a dz302-esque engine?

>400 with a 350 crank
>350 with a blueprinted dz302 crank + naise headers
I just want a screamer that I can push to 9k or more

Why not use the money to put modern stuff on the dart and then do a v8 swap. Darts are pretty popular so I'm sure someone out there makes conversion kits for disc brakes plus a 318 can make some decent power especially in something small like a dart.

You could keep what you’ve got and not spend yourself into the poorhouse. I get that making dumb decisions is a junior enlisted tradition.

>9k or more
I hope you like regularly adjusting mechanical lifters and spending a ton of money on a set of bushed lifters (roller bearings crap out real soon).

Also, destroke a 400 to 3". Gives you 320 cubes. You'll need a real thin gasket (but do ensure at least .040" piston to head clearance) and really tiny combustion chambers to get decent compression ratio.

9k out of small block? solid lifter cam, short stroke (2.9-3.2 inch range) 350 block, longer (6 inch if 3 inch stroke), billet crank, rods, upgraded billet main caps, titanium valves, good valvesprings, the list goes on. That kind of rev capability also requires lighter parts, usually resulting in lower longevity.

>I hope you like regularly adjusting mechanical lifters
my 383 already does this to me
>destroke a 400 to 3"
i need to find a video of this
I had a buddy in high school who bounced off 9k off a cold start and only bent a rod, what the fuck changed

And yet im doing great financially. Gotta keep toy funds separate from everything else.

I think by the time i get the dart where i want it, ill be way more in the hole than what its worth. Right now ive got maybe 4500 in it, and im sure i could break even, if not make some

uh what engine is in any of these cars? stock trans am will not impress you with power, but the vette and torino might be alright performers based on the engine inside. Also a stock 454 with a double pumper won't be sweet unless its a LS6 style or something, later model big blocks (ie 73-up) are low comp and low rev

>only bent a rod
Hope this is a joke

it's a quick fix though

I'm going to laugh at you if you spend yourself into a hole and decide you don't like the car after a month.

You’re still literally throwing money away by trading your truck for a classic

pulling apart an entire engine is a quick fix?
for that matter a stock sbc isn't going to even rev to 9k anyway, factory cam profile and valvespring pressure can't support it.

luckily I got my trans am cheap but half the stuff like torinos, corvettes, and a lot of second gen f bodies don't run or drive and they'll nickle and dime the shit out of you. It's not going to cost you much more to make a street machine out of what you have. If you like the way the dart looks (i personally think they look bad ass) then go fast in what you like rather than trying to track something down that will go fast after you sink a lot more money into it.

>pulling apart an entire engine is a quick fix?
never had to go that far to change one
>for that matter a stock sbc isn't going to even rev to 9k anyway
it probably wasn't totally stock but it was a dz, afterall

350 in the vette and camaro, original 454 in the other, not sure on the trans am, and i believe a 351 in the torino.

Eh. Its a risk im willing to take.

Most logical will just be keep the taco and just do what i always do.

not being facetious here, but how do you change a rod otherwise? you have to at least pull the head and the oil pan, which requires the intake and carb pulled as well. Then you have to change the piston onto another rod, have it balanced to match the set, and reinstall the piston, then put it back together. is there an easier way?
Also that makes sense, a stock dz is much different than other stock sbc's

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>but how do you change a rod otherwise?
If you're not worried about chunks of rod in your pan, just pull the head and rod, replace and reset leash. easy fix, moving the carb and intake really isn't that hard although I guess it depends on your setup. I can move them as one piece essentially

Well fuck!

I'll read through the thread later after work.
Starting picture dump of my dad's 100% fabricated from scratch metal building. The entire thing is made from cut and welded rectangular tube steel.

Weld work 1/3

Weld work 2/3

Weld work 3\3

The building is set on concrete piers.

Front section of the roof. The rear section is identical.

Larger shot of the fully built structure minus siding.

Roof beams 1/3

Roof beams 2/3

>getting paint on the truck

Roof beams 3/3

>77 trans am
dont

It was getting hauled off for scrap in the next couple months.

Finished product.

What did you use and how did you learn

Finished product 2/2

And that's all, folks. It currently houses cattle supplies, garden tools, farm equipment, spare car parts, and my mom's 2012 fiat.

My dad did all this. He's going to teach me welding soon. He just bought an arc welder and taught himself. He taught himself how to build a house as well by doing it, and it turned out well.

He's a fucking wizard or something, I don't know.

Man you fucked up, now im gonna be all over that page looking for stuff.

Whoo! Gas station is out of gas, so im getting premium for regular price!

>tfw regular is $3.29 a gallon in my town

My 2002 avalanche is rated to 7000lbs thats almost as much as a 70s F350 according to this brochure

That poor firebird

He keeps it in pretty good shape all things considered.

Isn't the DZ302 basically a 327 with a 283 crank, hot heads, cam, and valvetrain?

>mfw my cutlass has over 200k miles on it

Im hoping to swap the engine soon and give the poor 350 a rest.

I love how hes keeping it on the road but i could never do something like that to my firebird

I'm curious as to how many miles my Ta has on it, when I bought it the speedo cable was broken and it looked like it had been for awhile. It had 98,000 on it when I replaced the speedo cable and it rolled over not soon after. It started to jump around and skip numbers pretty bad.

Hope it doesn’t snow where you live lad

Greetings from the great North East

Anybody got any knowledge they would like to impart regarding rear gear ratios and high stall converters?

i fucking finally found a matching size rear tire

now this little pony can run

i didnt quite get the shot i wanted with the last one but oh well. trying NOT to get seen by what little traffic there was

It doesn't, but why.

Majestic. What did you use to strip and clear coat your car?

2 cheap orbital sanders, bc one broke and i to cannibalize to make the other work. that wast fun

i think 60 and 80 grit initially, then uh whatever that cheap clearcoat u could get at o'reillys.

after the initial one, i just touch it up once in a while.

it needs to be done again and im gonna take more time and get a finer grit and better clear coat

post more pics

How much of a mess did it make stripping? I wanna do my own prep work. Before I send her off to paint to save a few bucks but I also don't wanna trash my father in laws driveway. Bad enough I swapped a transmission and power steering there already and stained everything

it took me like 4 weeks bc i only did it when i had time. i was always covered in primer dust and what not. it wasnt too bad, but then again i did do it outside.

of course, if i had better tools or the right ones, and a space to do it in, it would have been so much easier

that being said, i probably wouldnt have done it the easier way. theres no love and labor when u do it the easy way. i put a lot of love and sweat into this junk

i had to pull the transmission to swap out the flexplate and the starter, bc the old starter grenaded itself and tore up my flexplate

that was a nightmare to do bc it would never stop raining. ive only ever worked laying down in the dirt

My 92 silverado has 210k miles on it i plan to swap an 5.3 LM7 into it

With a decent sander, you can get down to metal very easy, just do it outside and wear a mask.

what would you like to know? optimal converter stall speed is dependent on many factors, only one of which being rear gear ratios. in a general sense, all other things constant, a larger cam, higher (numeric) rear end gears, lower car weight, or an engine that makes power further up the powerband will operate better with a higher stall converter. Low rear end gears (around 3.11 and lower) tend to not like higher stall speed converters and higher rear end gears (3.73 and up) favor higher stall. lighter cars also benefit from a higher stall. Also a higher stall converter allows a vehicle with a very hot cam to idle at desired speed but not 'jump' or 'clunk' when being put into gear. The downsides of a higher stall converter is greater transmission fluid wear and heat, causing overall transmission wear if not accounted for.
As a general rule of thumb, a stock vehicle will have around 700-1200rpm stall, a heavy-ish car with a mild motor and highway gears might like 1500-2000, the average 'street' hot rod runs between 2000-2800, and much over that is often considered a drag race or a pretty hot street car stall.

>>spoonfeedme needs less information simplified
r u laffing at the way i type

Actually, it was a play on the fact that your name requests the information to be as simplified as possible.

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I will eventually come back to asking retarded questions.

>How do I splice a wire

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god i love the first wash

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>filename
satisfying

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Well my dad said I could have any engine block for a dollar a cube, so 350$ for a new block. I just need to drive back home and find the best block for my rebuild.
I'll post some pics of what I find.

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Please explain to me how you unbolt the rod cap from the journal, and how you reinstall it, without pulling the pan.

Did I get trolled anons?

And that's all for today's ever-growing collection of shitboxes.

I think I might have a serious problem...

That thing just looks so fucking bad ass. Please leave the patina.

Please post a video of it running and driving when you get it going. I cannot wait to see this thing back to life.

Fucking chain tensioner on my Datsun is being a cunt. I really don’t wanna have to tear apart the front cover so I’m gonna try and use a long screwdriver to press the tensioner back in and get the chain back out to where it needs to be

It's in so much better shape than I thought; given that I bought it from a scrap yard; and, I will definitely be leaving it cosmetically unrestored.

Honestly, it looks like a caricature of a car in that it's so outlandish that it doesn't look REAL.

Is this a factory ac car?

Outlandish is another word for ugly

Yes, it is. Just look at the "ship vents" on the dash. In my opinion, it's one of the least tasteful vehicles ever built.

Hey cutlass, I'd like to purchase one of those "be a man among men" stickers. Where can I get one?

What kind of service should I be doing on a 30yr old truck?
Only has 80k miles on it

Okay cool so I wasn't too far off then on my research. So with a cam, headers, roller rockers, supercharger and a performance th350 and a 3500rpm stall in a 3600lb car I would do well to go numerically higher ie 3.90 or 4.10?