/mg/ Miata General - Yet another red miata thread

Watch out for usual issues, use a buying guide off one of the forums, use mot checker online. 800-900 is probably about right for an alright one, but check completed listings in eBay and keep an eye out for bargains. Love my 1.8 nb1

>love my 1.8
Post pics faggot

Have some 16x8 rota grid drifts to go on when I can be arsed to roll the arches (et10 rear, et5 fronts with a spacer to clear the calipers). Has roll bar, buckets, harnesses, exhaust, intake etc

>mfw all the NA Miatas near me are going for $6000 maple dollars.

Kek I got this for $1000 kiwi dollars which is like 900 or less for most of you faggots

Anybody got a white or black hard top for sale?
I'm in the Midwest.

that's because Japan is right there

your old Jap cars are akin to our old domestics - we can get like 10 Pontiac Sunfires for $5k, and combined we might have 1-2 running vehicles

plus Miatas have a very strong stigma in America, they're owned exclusively by homosexuals and hair dressers

Why is america such a pent up shithole
Haha just kidding

nice I'm american and I got my 96 m edition for $600

16x8? Gross. Should have gone 15 inch..

You just need to release the clutch slower all the way through. Don't pop it up once the car starts moving forward. Keep slowly letting it out all the way.

Also, yes the sun visors are garbage. I unscrewed them and threw them out.

NA = FC
NB = FD
NC = RX-8
FD = (?)RX-9
Right?

>plus Miatas have a very strong stigma in America

only among insecure truck brofags, soybaru wrx vapelords, and non-car people whose opinions dont matter anyway

When you get stickier tyres it will get a little harder to spin them.

Not from an open market, you didn't. Straight rolling shells don't go for that cheap without whatever top you've got on, let alone those Lensos.

They aren't the lightest but I like them, 15s are perfect for a MK1 but the mk2+ suit larger sets (more space under the arches, and many came with 16's from the factory. Didn't the Mazda speed nb turbo come with 17's?) Fitment is good and still functional without being too hotboi or stancefaggy

I've bought $10 piece of pipe and $40 filter for shitty diy intake. I made some mistakes, now i'm in progress of cutting piece of sheet metal into some kind of support thingie, i think i'll try nigger rigging some kind of heat shield too. Can't even say for sure if there is any power gain (car feels slightly different, at first i definitely felt like it's extra power, now i can't tell anymore), but sweet jesus this sound. I knew there will be some difference, but this deep brap and screaming on high revs is more aggressive than i'd ever expect

You aren't making extra power, the sound is just making you think you do. Make a heat shield for the thing at least, it's easy enough to do and it'll help a little. Don't expect to make much if any power with intake mods, unless you go balls to the wall with itbs.

I wasn't really expecting any serious extra power (i just hoped it won't get weaker after my amateur work), but i felt like coming from air box with little hole in the side to huge ass filter with less restrictive filtering material would make engine a little bit happier. Insignificant gain of couple extra horsepower isn't all that unrealistic, is it? Or is stock miata filter design that good? (i really hope it's not, because there is no way i'm going back after i've heard this amazing sound)

There is this one popular youtube car mechanics channel in my country, guy tried fitting different kinds of filters into small 60hp corsa and gained 5hp with biggest one. It looked promising.

But yeah, even though i feel like air flow under the bonnet delivers cold air to intake (filter cold to touch after long ride), i'm definitely gonna make some kind of wall soon. I just need to measure stuff, for now i've only cut out makeshift mount point that holds pipe in place, attached to blue piece of pipe that connects air flow sensor and metal 180 pipe.

Yeah, so many people say to not waste money on an intake, bit it seems worth it for the extra sound

How is it even possible to screw up this way? People who can't drive are stalling, not doing burnouts

Pic from yesterday; it'll be washed again soon.

AR Bro!
Thinking of trading my 5 speed truck for a miata

I wonder if previous owner may have put a light flywheel and different clutch on it. I've watched videos of lighter flywheels revving, and this seems to be about as fast revving w clutch in as those.

Oem top

> Dallas
From Fort worth myself, I need to give her a batch pronto
Also can anyone tell me if 01 se have problems with the gas gauge, I feel like I'm going to the pump way more than I should and then only putting in like 8 bucks of gas
Also anyone have a fix for a loose top seal? The left one isn't locking properly, kinda worried about it

i have 00 nb, gas gauge is moving very slowly and often showing wrong data
>go on the track
>fuel gauge slowly going down to zero
>shit, i've burnt all fuel i had
>get out of the track
>fuel gauge slowly grows up on its own
>1/4 of gauge

i think roof seals are replaceable elements

I wanted to bring mine out this past week but we got a little snow Tuesday and Thursday. Now I'll have to wait another week or so until we get some rain to wash away the salt. Not complaining since it's still pretty cold out at night when I leave work.

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hey there

IDK if you remember but I'm the guy with the rusty as shit miata that I rebuilt in december

So it's fully done now, I started it today (did not run since september).
(after swapping the rear and front wings and part of the sills)

Only a full respray and she'll be back on the road.

You got nothing on me, rust

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she was like this at its worst

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I've got a 1.8 1995 with home made turbo conversion
207 whp

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We were having awesome warm weather a few weeks and had a nice big rain storm...and then on Thursday we got 13 inches of snow.

shit son I remember that thread, nice going

What gasket do i need to replace to stop oil from touching the spark plugs?

H-head cover gasket?

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Good going, I'm so glad I live in the south.

Cool, I've read on the forums that I can get about 150 whp from a vvt 1.8 with only an intake, full exhaust and a tuned mega squirt. I think I could be happy with that for tearing up the street. Maybe an itb set eventually, but idk, seems complicated.

cool stuff. are you adding some kind of rust-proof layers midway, or will it rust away again at some point? I wonder how permament this kind of rust-fixing is.

my miata will sooner or later end up like (i haven't checked but i'm pretty sure it's more or less fucked in various places already, and i can't think of anything that would prevent it), but i have no knowledge about metal work whatsoever and i feel like taking it for this kind of stuff to professional would cost me more than another two other rusty miatas. still, i love this little car and i'm seriously considering saving up some money for this kind of work

i also had no idea prior this project.
Every metal part has a generous amount of rusproofing paint applied, and the sills have been drilled to evacuate the water in a better way.

This plus preventive maintenance (getting leaves and shit out), I think the car is good to go for another 20 years or so.

I saw a stock 1.8 vvt dyno at 104 whp. I doubt you'd get a near 50% power gain from a 'zort, intake and remap.

also it feels so good to hit the road in such a stiff little chariot even only for a few km after 6 month of only riding the big swedish sled

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hrm, may have to save up for a supercharger then, turbo lag annoys the hell out of me

I remember your posts. That was great work, m8.

If you mean the top side of the plugs (That's not inside the combustion chamber), you need a valve cover gasket. Takes like 20 bucks and 20 minutes. A torque wrench and using the criss-cross pattern when tightening the valve cover back up is recommended.

the lags not even noticeable on these cars as they're so light.
you'll be making boost as soon as you're on the throttle and full boost comes in around 2500-3500 depending on your setup.
The SC cars make around 170-180 whp. For less money a TC setup makes about 25% more power. And its easier to build too.

Pic related, is there a cheap way to fix it without making it look like a joke? It popped out recently and it's the only bad spot on the outside so far, so i'd love to take care of it but i don't want to respray entire part

i know this feel
>having a miata for couple months already
>somehow i still failed to sell my old car, xsara 1.4
>recently someone wanted to buy it, visited me, and it turned out that handbrake locked rear wheels (i haven't even left it on handbrake, the guy who wanted to buy it just used it once, what the hell)
>decided that i'll drive xsara from time to time to keep it in shape
>unlocked wheels, drove it a bit
>terribly soft suspension
>feels like a tank
>was fwd always this unnatural to operate?
>needs gentle throttle operation to not feel like i'm gonna die in corners
>sitting kilometer above the ground
>incredibly slow
what the hell, was it always this bad? it's just 100kg(?) difference, yet it feels like night and day

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Yep, its the top side.

Good. Also use a tiny little bit of RTV sealant on the corners of the sealant surface.

yeah, imagine the gap between a miata and a 120 hp (ha-ha) 1.8 ton car... (the volvo rides super smooth though, 10 hours drives are super comfy.)

That rust spot is quite bad already, there is a dual skin here (wheel well meets the quarter panel).
If there's rust here it means that the panel is eaten through. No other way than cutting/welding/painting if you want it to look clean :/

also thanks.

Hopefully I'll have it sprayed this month or in april ?

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Can anyone from Europe tip me on where i can find parts to uncuck my 1.6 90hp engine? As far as i know i need different cams and ecu. But thats it.

You need the cams off a 115 hp 1.6. Try junkyards or classifieds. You can't swap in a 115 hp ECU as the later cars have different wiring looms and some extra features the old ECU can't control. So use the 90 hp ECU. This should give you about 105 - 110 hp. The rest of the differnce is mostly due to lower compression pistons of the 90 hp version.

i just washed my car with pressure washer and realized that there is some probability that water droplets could get near my filter through the gap between hood and rest of the car. But then again, intake duct is very long and it's not like i'm gonna submerge it, in worst case it would be small splash measured in milliliters. Is it dangerous, or should i ignore it?

I'm gonna cut out a wall soon, so i wonder if i should aim for tight fit against the hood for extra protection from side droplets, or just slap generic wall that protects it from engine heat and that's it

What are these designation at the end?

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same experience with my 100hp 1050kg fiat panda that's still my daily. stopped driving it hard since it just feels clumsy compared to the mx5

Just put a towel on the side while washing the car.

>drive the family opel corsa d
>buy da miat for myself
>get used to it
>one time had to jump back into the corsa
>soft seat, no noise, light as fuck gear stick, marshmallow ride, really high and upright seating position, the lightest steering, accelerating from a stop feels like tugging a bus

It was like moving from a race car to a rolls royce.

I didn't mean as in while washing the car, i meant that in rain there would be some probability that water could get near my intake. But nevermind, i googled, found some videos and supposedly you need to submerge it to cause any damage, and small splashes/droplets won't do anything other than making my filter dirty. Some guy on youtube was even pouring droplets of water into his old carbed engine to show that rpm drops a bit when you pour water into carb

>light gear stick
oh yeah, this one felt weird in my xsara too
>get in
>start driving
>change gear
>holy shit, something's broken
>no it isn't, it's just long as hell and wobbly gear lever with no resistance whatsoever
miaters gearbox is really good, you can really feel it after driving it for some time

I have no idea senpai. B6 is the engine designation for the 1.6 Miata engine, but I don't know anymore than that. In the old photos I have of my timing belt job I can't read anything on the cams except IN and EX.

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OwO what's this

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H E C T I C

>B6 is the engine designation for the 1.6 Miata engine
i think those old NA 1.6 ones were bp-something, and b6ze was new (110hp) one. i don't know much about the topic, just random piece of unconfirmed information that might or might not help

Should I replace these?

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If you're gonna do it, do it now and save yourself the trouble of taking the diff out again. Get a blowtorch/press ready
You could always add a cover similar to It should take care of any water coming in from the top

Well apparently the sky gods want my new car to be fucked up by hail.

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My yard is just ice cubes, goddamnit!

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i rarely feel this empathetic. sorry user, hope it won't damage it

>Live in hailstorm climate
>No cover
My 1990 has the B6ZE. The 94+ had a detuned variant, the BP's were 1.8's.

>hailstorm climate

I've never seen hail 1/10th of this in my life here, but I suppose in the end it will only draw us closer, me and car I mean.

Go outside with blankets and cover that shit up, please

cover it with something, anything

I suppose. Does the NB have an ally hood like the NA?

Well its over now, I ran my hand all over it and didn't feel any dents so its probably fine. whew

twitter.com/AustinKellerman?ref_src=twsrc^google|twcamp^serp|twgr^author

it is a crazy storm though

get a cover for it

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Though they sink through the sea they shall rise again

thanks Advance Auto for this hotdog down a hallway-tier axle fitment even after you assured me it will fit a mazdaspeed differential.
FUCK

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tricities.craigslist.org/cto/d/1994-mazda-miata/6500691159.html

How fucked is this miata? Yes I know it's an automatic but I have a 1.8 manual powertrain ready to swap in (the buyer does not need to know this)

TIL the housing to the differential is aluminum.
I fucked up the axle seal surface BAD
how do I become not a brainlet, Veeky Forums?

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From the ad:
>I have been working on the car for a year and a half now
Expect some mechanical and electrical fuckuppery. Since you already have a powertrain to swap ready, make sure the car has no or close to no rust. You will kick yourself doing all this work on a rusted chassis.

i'm investigating a miata for sale.

>car has a new fuel pump a new clutch and new battery it does not run at the moment my son jumped the car off and crossed the cables on the battery we replaced what we thought may be wrong but still cant get it to start may be something simple just don't have the time to fool with it.

buyer says it's getting fire at the plugs

what's fucky here? i was hoping he hadn't realized the car has a 40a main fuse that could be blown, but if there's fire at the plugs i assume that is intact

Is that tire backwards?

>what's fucky here
Everything. Obviously someone who has no idea what they are doing has messed with it. They could have fried everything with that battery mishap, from ECU to radio and the alternator voltage regulator. None of these parts are particularly expensive for a Miata if you can source them used (They are new from Mazda though.)
ECU seems to be doing something at least if it has spark. I'm telling you that it's probably not something easy right then and there because if it has spark, it should have fuel as well because it's all on the same ECU and therefore run.
If it's cheap and you like projects, consider it. If you get it to run, it's probably still gonna be a basket case because idiots have already fucked with it, but it might be salvageable.

i ain't scared of no 'lectrical ghost

i bet theyve fucked up the ECU or the fuel pump, ORRRRR put the spark plugs back out of order ORRRRRRRR the timing belt is damaged / toasties / gone entirely ORRRRRR timing belt was being replaced and everything is out of alignment
or some combination of the above.
i have never owned or worked on a miata before and i enjoy setting myself up to enter things in the most frustrating and difficult way possible, so im going to offer $500 and then have to scramble to find a trailer to borrow or rent so i can go drive for four hours in order to buy this thing

>im going to offer $500 and then have to scramble to find a trailer to borrow or rent so i can go drive for four hours in order to buy this thing
That sounds like a fun project at that price point. I already have a running Miata, but I've toyed with the idea to buy a non-running one and make it running since I already know my way around the car now.

But I don't have the space, arrrrrrrrrrrrr

i'd buy it for $500 even if entire electrical wizardy would be toasted. i see entire stock 1.8 ecu on auction sites in my country priced for $100

have fun user, i must admit i'm a bit jelly. my miaters is just so easy to diagnose that any fixing is a pleasure. plus nothing ever goes wrong, i fixed up basic stuff after i bought it and now it just works

why am i even excited that someone else is going to have fun

Are you trying to do some extensive restoration build, or just wanting a miata to drive around like a madman in? Because if its the latter, its probably not worth the trouble of such heavy modification when there are so many manual ones for sale anyway.

Just gonna a) lift it b) put AT tires on it c) drive around soaking up attention, possibly then either putting a fastback hardtop fiberglass kit on it OR chopping material back until it's a sexy kart

desu manual is fine for me because i'll be swapping in the entire drivetrain from a LS400 which is automatic anyway

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i mean automatic fug

One thing to keep in mind is that you want to keep the stiffness of the motor mounts and the diff mounts somewhat consistent. So say you put some poly diff bushings in you would want to put stiffer motor mounts in as well. This is to prevent putting extra stress on the PPF. You will introduce torsional stress with mismatched bushings.