/CCG/ - Classic Car General

>Aw, no calling out trip fags.
Sadly I'm not clever enough to think of funny things to say about everyone.

Well what would you suggest? All vehicles in my immediate budget are either in rough shape, or undesirable (4dr, 6cyl, or just not a popular vehicle), and anything that I do like is out of my budget by more than a "save up" margin.

I bought the dart cause I thought I loved the slant 6 Mopar, alas, i was remembering it through rose tinted glasses cause it was my 1st classic. I truly loved the 2nd gen Camaro, just wish the engine/trans/interior/body wasn't fucked on it.

>Need a V8 coupe, and a big V8 truck
>Only have I4 and /6

there are usually plenty of landyachts in decent shape in my area at decent ($3000 and under) prices, of course you always have to worry about them being nigged out bc chicago.

I understand youre trying to balance desirability, reliability, and price but you usually only get to pick 2

4wd for the truck? Brand preference?

>I bought the dart cause I thought I loved the slant 6 Mopar, alas, i was remembering it through rose tinted glasses cause it was my 1st classic.
Not to be a dick but we told you so before you even bought it.

You need to just slow your roll bro.

Change of pace from my wreck of a life

>I know what i got

bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/1965-mustang-code-4-bbl-4/6523848413.html

(This one idk, cause cudas are rare)
bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/1972-plymouth-cuda-may-trade/6515810821.html

jackson.craigslist.org/cto/d/57-chevy/6488722822.html

And I cant find it, but I saw 1 ad hitting every Boomer sterotype and saying "I'll tell YOU what your trade is worth.

you should listen to your gf, she doesn't really know why, but she is partially right. On the flip side, I am pretty lucky that my gf likes and understands my hobby. She loves the lincoln but has an irrational hatred for my truck, which is my favorite. Pic related. Such is life, I can't expect a girl to love something with manual brakes, manual tranny, manual steering, leaf springs and a vinyl bench seat

>it makes my legs sweaty user

>Just because it costs more doesn't impart reliability
this... unless every single part and hose and pump has been replaced within the last ten years, which they never have been, you are always a month or two away from the next failure. That's the true advantage of a newish car; all the parts are only as old as the vehicle

>it makes my legs sweaty user
hot

That's the truth. That's why I was going after 2nd gen, but those shot up recently.

Idk, I'm not really a fan of landyachts after the Impala. Im slowly finding my nice of powerful medium sized cars.

2wd or 4wd. If I've got a nice classic car/or a nice classic truck, I prefer 70s Ford's or pre 85 c10s.

Ideally I was looking at (for a shop truck) a 454 crew cab C20. A few of those around here, but I'd need a nice car to compensate for the beater.

My brother is trying to sell his slk Amg to make a vintage drag car.
I found this today... lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/low-production-1960-pontiac/6516288768.html
...And thought it would be perfect, only problem is, my brother is in Guatemala on a medical mission trip and wont be back for two weeks.
I really hope no one buys it before he comes back and I can show it to him.

wow, the body on that thing looks pretty solid

I swear to God the 66 dart was faster, even with an auto. Maybe it was cause half of it had rusted away, or I didn't know any better since it was my 1st real classic.

I tried explaining things to her, but all she heard was me spending more of my money. She just can't comprehend anything to do with finances.

>I'm getting rid of my 15k car note in favor of a 10k one, and I'm gonna use the money from selling project car to buy a secondary vehicle.
So you're getting 2 loans?
>What? No, I'm getting rid of-
Your just spending more money and getting 2 loans
>No.. I'm getting rid-
You're just gonna spend more money, why not stay with your current truck? Why do you want a different old car?
>I want something faster
Why? You had something fast and you said it used too much gas.
>No, I got rid of it cause it was burning a lot of oil and the interior-
Idk what any of that means, you're just gonna buy another piece of junk again anyways

*Rips hair out*

so just do what you want and be done with it

i didn't tell my fiance i was going to buy this ugly fuck, i just showed up at the house with it on the trailer. when she asked why i said cause i wanted it and that was that

well pre 1985 means no TBI 454 for you. Still the carb 454 are not bad with some work. That would be good. I am mostly a GM guy so I am bias towards them. A square was going to be my suggestion anyway. I am not sure where you live, but squares are prone to rust so bad, which is why I will not touch them.

The frames on these are stupid expensive and so are the rear ends. And the Mercury Sleeper is a nice touch. I hope you do not scrap it and plan on finding a use for it.

Ended up just tightening down my existing transmission mount with a but lock washer and flat washer and some blue loctite. Got the engine bay rigged up like the smog diagram says. Wish me luck tomorrow guys! Sorry I didn't see the new thread

quick question:
So when I set initial timing I did 10btc with the vacuum advance off and plugged. Just checked it right now with everything all hooked up and the car warn and in drive with the park brake on. 29 degrees timinf at 700rpm! What gives? Is that normal? Pretty sure my distrivbutor was all in too because I revved it and the timinf didn't change.

More pics of the Lincoln, please.

I've been decontaminating the Plymouth and the engine shows real promise.

Nicely done user, I did the same with my ex wife, I would just come home with a new gun and start to take it apart and clean it on the table.

>what gun is that
>why do you have to do this on the table
>how much did it cost
>you should sell one of your other guns
>let me just blow all my income on makeup

Forgot pic...

>let me just blow all my income on makeup
lel, gfs sister was one of those who would complain that she cant move out bc she cant make more than minimum wage with her $80k art degree... then blow it all on makeup.

at least with cars I recognize I have a problem

Is that a Hemi

Also, I tried polishing one of the fenders:

its going to be a mud truck/party rig

it was actually a stubby air force aircraft tug then someone grafted a 80s 1ton rear frame to it so now its just over 17 feet wheelbase. the d70 rear that was in it was 3:55 gears and the factory d70 front is 4.88 so i swapped in a f550 rear so that it has matching gears.

i got it for $1200 with a fresh rebuild 440

hit up some mexicans and put some tires on that damn thing, I bet it hasn't rolled properly in years. I love the first start, always magical. I'll post more pics of the lincoln soon, in fact I might post the prom pics being taken tomorrow

Heater controls dangling

reminds me of trying to wax my truck
still haven't gotten all the oxidized paint off, need to give it a go this summer

>I love the first start, always magical.
kek
Once upon a time, in another life, I had to get an ancient Autocar with a 250 or 300 Cummins running. The thing was a pile of dogshit. It had sat since probably the Nixon administration, but it was this old fart's pride and joy, y'know?
Anyways, put a couple batteries in, prime the fuel system, pull the compression release and hit the starter. After a couple seconds of cranking it wants to start. Let go of the CR and it fires off.
I hear something hit one of the rear crossmembers. This thing had a weedburner exhaust for some ungodly reason.
Hop out and look, there's a crispy dead crow or starling or something laying on the ground. Okay...
Let it warm up and take it to 1500rpm high idle. It don't want to go that high. Try again.
THOONK.
About 5 more birds and a pile of leaves flies out of the fucking exhaust.

Not sure I'd call it magical but it was pretty damn funny at the time.

how do half a dozen crows get into an exhaust, was someone forcibly stuffing them in there?

Good luck tomorrow with smog SC bro!

My fiance has never complained even once about my car swapping and even likes to help me out with stuff. I am eternally grateful.

You probably don't have the vacuum advance hooked up correctly. On my Bronco, some fuck wit had capped the vacuum port on the carburetor, hooked up my vacuum advance distributor to constant vacuum on the manifold, and retarded the timing 30 degrees. No wonder it ran like shit. I timed it properly and hooked up the vacuum line to the carburetor. Ran silk smooth after. Stupid garbage shade tree mechanic shit like that absolutely enrages me.

So, make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up to the carburetor...or wherever the proper place is on your car.

I am /PONTON/

>watching LIVE PD with wife
>some guy in Nye County Nevada arrested for car jacking
>its an el Camino

Well let's see which namefag doesn't post tonight and we'll know which one of you guys it was

Forgot name

Well its supposed to be to the carburetor but I'm supercharged so I have it straight to manifold, so that it retards under boost

Okay so I went outside and re routed my advance from direct manifold vacuum to base of the carb. It's still 30 at idle but now it jumps all the way to 44 at throttle whereas it used to stay stationary. It's no longer shutting off the vacuum advance under boost so I guess I need to set it back up to manifold then right? I've always been told too much advance at boost equals bye bye engine

Well that's 100% of your problem right there. It's fully advanced at idle. Do you absolutely need it to retard under boost? Or do you just need it to not advance? You could just plug off the vacuum line to the distributor and disable the timing advance feature. Then just dead nuts the timing on zero degrees.

For $1000 Z guy:
wtf is that big white goober on #1 intake runner?

Yeah too much advance under boost is a bad idea. Are you sure your timing is even set right? Did you adjust your distributor? Did you tighten the bolt down after adjustment?

Yupp I set it correctly and everything. When I unplug my vacuum advance and pplug both ports it drops back down to exactly 10 degrees before top dead center. And when I accelerate the centrifugal advance bumps up to about 29 all I'm by 2500. I did some more testing and no matter where I hook up the vacuum advance to it'll jump up to 30 at idle and 44 degrees or so even as high as 50 when revving. So apparently my vacuum advance adds like fucking 10-20 degrees. It's adjustable though there's a screw inside the advance canister. I need to dial it down a lot I guess in order to get it back down. The engine got a lot hotter now without vacuum advance though so I might just leave it alone it was running fine before

Honestly man, somebody else would be better to ask than me on that. I don't want to tell you to do the wrong thing and fry your engine. I have never messed with a super charger and I've only messed with my own distributor.

I might be in the clear guys, apparently everyone on the forums recommends doing 10-14 degrees at idle plus about 15 or so mechanical all in by 2500 so a total of 28-32 degrees NOT COUNTING VACUUM ADVANCE and then hooking the vacuum advance up and just saying fuck it.

Yupp sorry guys false alarm. Just read. Super Chevy article about the matter and they said it's fine even better for engine longevity because high advance at idle and cruise is cool and it'll cut under boost (under load not parked in my driveway which is where I was fucking up) back down to like 29-30. Sorry guess I'm nervous about this smog shit. Vacuum advance plugged and transmission in drive I dropped back down to 500rpm and 10 btcwhich is normal

Awesome. Those sound like weird numbers to be having to me, but I deal with n/a Ford stuff.

Per the instructions it says to
1. Plug vacuum advance and also the hose from the carb or manifold
2. Set initial timing to 10-12 btc.
3. Set idle speed
4. Calculate total advance and have it be 28-32 degrees total (mechanical plus initial) in by 2500rpm
5. Turn off and re connect vacuum advance. Drive around.

U essentially never check it again after hooking up the vacuum advance. And it never pinged or knocked or anything and it ran cooler and at higher idle rpm with snappier throttle response hooked up so I guess it's all good. Under boost it should retard timing back down to 30 degrees when the positive manifold pressure from the blower cuts off the vacuum advance signal

Should i bother triping in this general? I have a current project

Gnite ccg, don't let whatever lives under the carpet of your classic bite

Just namefag like everyone else, not like anyone wants to impersonate us

Good luck w smog test. With regards to booth tuning I assume you have an AFR gauge already. That's all I took away as an absolute necessity from when I looked into it. Also if you go EFI a lot of the kits come with an electronic timing control unit for boosted applications

>I understand youre trying to balance desirability, reliability, and price but you usually only get to pick 2

Yeah, I know that too...I'd have rather had the 318 in my Valiant than the /6, but of well... I wanted a 70-73 4-dr one, and for a perfectly DD-capable car for only $2500? I've yet to see another '70-up one for that condition and that price.

In that regard, should I go for something like this?

greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/d/mopar-small-block-318/6522647691.html

Or just keep the /6....problem is, I want to put in an A833, and already have one too. But it's an auto-trans car, so I'm not sure if it'll take the pilot bearing. If that is the case, should I go for above link, or look for something else?

850 for a motor that still needs finished.

...

Well I must've missed something then, thanks. I'm not making any serious considerations at the moment anyway.

You can probably find a 318 that needs redone and do it for less than 800 including cost of the engine. I just sold a good 360 last week for $200

Heh, alright. I kinda wanna try a teardown anyway...in that case I guess a pilot bearing wouldn't' matter, one could replace machine it.

The other problem with going 318 is the other things needing changed....exhaust, stiffer torsion mars, etc...I kinda like the /6, but if I MUST change the engine to get that A833 in, I'd rather have the LA block.

*replace OR machine the crankshaft

I don’t know a whole lot about Mopars, so I cannot be much more help. Didn’t know you’d have to change those things when swapping motors.

Well a slant 6 exhaust isn't gonna bolt up to a V-8.

And you COULD leave the old torsion bars if you really wanted. Would probably bounce more.

As far as getting an engine that needs rebuilt, how can I tell whether it's salvageable, or completely fucked? Other than, say, "was it left outside? Was it left opened up? Was it left as both?"

If it was left outside I’d steer clear of it.
If the plugs weren’t left in it, there is probably a lot of rust on the cylinders.
Ideally you want something that is as sealed up as much as possible, kept inside. I would still have someone check the heads.

My hangup on a V8 swap for a bodies is that you have to replace the K frame, trans, and rear end if you want it to survive any kinda use. Lotta money that you'll never get back when it's cheaper to just buy a V8 car.

Ya you can save money if you buy all the components that need a rebuild, but still.

Presumably the easiest build would be another /6 I guess.

But even with the V-8, as far as strength goes, I'm not gonna race it.

>trans
Already got one. Any engine specific parts aren't bought yet.

>rear end
It's 7.25 axle with a noisy bearing, small bolt pattern, and a ratio unsuited to the trans I wanna swap in. Probably replacing that anyway.

The game plan is to eventually get it to look like this. This is a shitty photoshop job though.

Need to do:
>floor
>trunk
>ditch the swing arm rear end for a solid axle with a 4 link
>fabricate front cups and control arms
>create a decent manual air system
>redo interior to factory looks, maybe a little fancier
>contemplating getting rid of the i4 diesel.

Well that, and a 7.25 wouldn't be able to survive on a normal driver.

Unrelated note: why the hell are 2nd gen Camaros so damn high now? 8 months ago, they were all over the place for under 4k in driving condition!

Car just died cruising down the street. Made no changes to anything last night nothing that could cause this anyways. Strtanded now

Wow. Small world, thats up the street from my college

Does the bottom end turn?

Yesterday i dropped off the trans to be converted to 2 wheel drive. I know the instructors at the college and they will make sure it is done right. Best part, its free labor

I hope i get it back soon

Pulled plug wires and cranked engine, no spark. Coils dead probably. Kinda sucks.

There was a weird banging down my exhaust everytime it failed to start. I'm guessing that was unburnt fuel igniting in my hot pipes?

How stupid of an idea would buying this be? This would be my first classic.
kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/edmonton/83-camaro/1337562578?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Not TPI. Wouldn’t buy a 3rd gen unless it was. Just me though.

My luck would have it it started raining while I was trying to fix the camaro on the side of the road. Wifes pretty mad I haven't spent time with her in over a month and im working 7 days a week till may. Said fuck it and got it towed to the performance muffler place that custom did my exhaust. Talked to the owner and he said it's probably the coil just like I'm thinking. Also said he'll have his guy smog me up so I guess it's a win win. Might get 4.10 posi put in while I'm here

What rear end now?

Stock open diff gears. 2.72 or 3.2 don't remember but it sucks with a 3500 stall converter and supercharger

I can't imagine how gutless 2.7 Gears feel

Word. Specially behind a supercharged v8 and 3500 stall converter in a almost 4000lb car

Tore apart the sub today and loaded it on a trailer to get stripped. The amount of grime and nigger rigging but lack of rust astonishes me.

Attached: IMG_20180310_131252.jpg (4032x3024, 3.72M)

Next up is the transmission
I'm getting more done this weekend than I have in the past three months

Attached: IMG_20180310_131744.jpg (4032x3024, 3.42M)

And I found my missing valve covers

Attached: IMG_20180310_131400.jpg (3024x4032, 3.38M)

Mad jelly of your workshop man, I wish I had that Set up

That's my endeavor for today; wish me luck.

So far, I'm more pleased by the fact that the floor pans are 80% solid.

>those posters
Needs a lot more thicc

I'm more and more astonished by this buy, lol. How long can it have sat in the yard? Good floorpans is remarkable. Rest of the body looks great too from your pics. Considering the low resolution pics you got from the yard, it could've been much worse, bordering on yard art tier. Instead you could have a driver soon. But you'll probably figure out why it was parked eventually

I finally got the firebird in the garage. It fought every step of the way but its there and i can continue working on it

Attached: 20180310_121509.jpg (2576x1932, 1.49M)

No word from the shop yet
Guys an ignition coil is like 4 screws change. The module is like a 20 minute job. It's been a few hours should I be worried

Can someone tell me the process for inporting a project classic car from Canada to the US. I found a car i want to get but its in canada and ill have to import it to Michigan and i have no idea what the process is

Sounds about right. They probably have a couple cars they're seeing before yours

I have never done it personally but from what I have heard its really easy.
nice looking first gen mate

Attached: hppp-0311-01-1968-pontiac-firebird.jpg (1600x1200, 736K)

Nah mine was the only one in and it rolled in first thing this morning. Nevertheless the owner just called. Fried pickup coil in distributor. The wireshorted and EVERYTHING got fucked: ignition Coil, Module, Pickup coil and the wire from the battery and shit. It specially sucks because it was all accel performance ignition shit and now I'm going back to duralasst or whatever the stock oem shit is

Thanks. Im proud of it

You should take them home and test them yourself one by one/with a meter. You never know. Electronics is magic, I ain't gotta explain shit

The shop owner is pretty cool he asked if I wanted to take the parts to Oreilly and get a warranty swap on them then bring the new gear into the shop and only pay labor. I've decided to ditch accel though, they have good reviews but a few of the bad ones all say the same thing: burned out or shorted out a month or so after install which is exactly what happened to me. They might have QC issues or something. I'll keep the stock replacement for now and get an msd kit or something