/CCG/ - Classic Car General

/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Bondo and Rustoleum edition.
>Coastie gets financial advice
>Drac decontaminates the Furry
>79scbro demonstrates why I avoid California
>moparts still disabled
>Cutlass is productive
>luxurynip joins the /drownthemice/ club

Incoming pasta:

>Cars are considered """classic""" at 25 years old, but a vehicle really needs that certain something to be classic and, no, your shitbox 1993 Honda Miata is not a classic.

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age or rarity.

>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses, don't get butthurt.

>Any and all classics welcome regardless of nationality.

>Performance > Cosmetics

>Metal > Plastic

>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.

>It's perfectly fine to use RTV. Ignore the haters.

>If you see rust there is probably more.

>rust and bodywork are by far the most difficult thing to repair.

>Electrical work is second most difficult.

>The hardest part of an engine swap is getting the wiring sorted out.

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Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/gOqwooshRxA?t=41s
baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/d/1973-lincoln-continental-mk/6511934749.html
opgi.com/grand-prix/PAN02K/)
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Duster user here with a progress report!
Lotta work done! You ready to see?!
Here's where we were a month ago..

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Moving right along!

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paint shop when

Nice progress user, please post the finished product when you're done

Once it gets warm out I need to get this turd out, go through it quick and finally sell it.

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Drift muscle cars should be a thing.

just kidding i let it get snowed on is all

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the fact that you think that sort of shit is acceptable fills me with dread for the future

I'm not convinced thats the same car, digging the new wheels tho

>63k motor and trans
fucking not bad, my motor had 160k and the bearings were all mint

forgot part of the pasta:
>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay somebody to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or greater of the work or you will go broke.

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience under your belt. If all the salty old hands agree, it's probably true.

thats embarrasing

Is that a 5th gen? Why don't you like it?

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>Cut up
>Caged
This is why I cant find cheap classics
Phew

Theres a gif of general lee drifting around a round about

I like it, but I bought it on a whim when I was 16 which was well over a decade ago. I havn't had it on the road since 09 or so.
I have way too may cars and need to thin the fleet a bit. It's a decent car, but a bondo special.

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>first time pulling an engine
>didnt fuck anything up
aside from forgetting that the fucking transmission and tq converter piss all the fluid out as soon as you pull it off the input and making a giant mess, went good.
found pretty much what i expected for a "recently rebuilt" engine in a $800 truck

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Don't tempt me; I have far too many cars as it is...

I take religious care of my cars. i can't wait to see how long i can make this engine and trans last

I like those valve covers; they remind me of the set of old-school California Customs valve covers I have for a 454.

Currently restoring this 82 "collector" edition.
Sat for 10 years, seals were shot, leaked water everywhere inside, had to gut everything not made of plastic.
The parts are stupid expensive for replacement, some I can't even get anymore. So I'm just going to go black everything, carpet, seats, paint, upgrade the headlights to LED halos, the taillights to LED's, haven't decided on wheels yet.
The engine is anemic, and has almost zero mods available besides a ~$500 intake manifold.

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You know you want a 429 ThunderJet under your right foot. Back in HS no one could beat my one tire fires. Flooring it from a dead stop would result in a nice fifty footer without even trying.
I'd probably keep it if I didn't pick up a trilogy Marauder last fall. Not to mention my Town Car, F250, Colony Park, and all the enduro/demo cars I need to get sorted.

Is that a Chrysler engine?

Check out Sloppy Mechanics if you haven't already, you'll see how much crazy shit these motors can take kek

Siiick
Kek, what a dick

The more I look at this beast, the more I love it just the way it is. I might just shoot some flat clear coat (is that a thing?) over it and leave the patina.

The engine bay was surprisingly clean. Somehow, very minimal oil leaks. Only a few mud dobber homes. Just had to blow a little dirt out around the intake manifold. Vacuumed out the interior. Carpet is rotten trash with a couple of holes in the floor pan; doesn't look serious, I'll probably just patch them and put new carpet in. Took several hours of searching, but I found full weatherstripping available for the entire car; it's all rotten garbage. Need a windshield as well. Those are the must haves after getting it road worthy.

Other than that, it's a factory a/c car, auto trans. Engine is completely unmodified, has all original emissions equipment, a/c compressor, etc. Manual crank windows. The car was originally green. The paint and interior are unfortunately horribly faded. The seats are not ripped but are bleached nearly white and turning to powder. Headliner is immaculate though, so that's nice at least. State inspection sticker in the windshield says 1999, there's a tune up receipt in the glovebox dated 1997. The gas smells like turpentine, I don't even know how it's running. It runs very badly, has an exhaust leak, and negligible power. Need to get that gas changed, carb rebuilt, new plugs, and change the points. Then find out where the exhaust leak is. Oh right, brakes don't work at all. I think the master cylinder is locked up. The brake pedal is locked and has negligible movement.

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Well I got a barrage of "No Don't sell it!" From my friends and family. Surprisingly even my wife was supportive and shit telling me i did way too much work on this car to let something like bad tuning dissuade me. My dad was saying its gotta just be fuel and spark tuning issues, forced induction should be way cleaner than NA SPECIALY by 70s standards.

Looks like I'm 2000 stock Durango guy for the time being. Can't wait to get the street machine fully dialed in and shit I'll probably DD it for a few months after.

I mean like a purpose built drift car, like Tony Angelo's Cuda. I know there's a couple first gen Camaros but that's about it.

I'd love to see a Nova slide.

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A new set of heads and it will open that engine right up

>has almost zero mods available
Stupid novice question but, isn't that a 350 chevy? I understand there are different models but wouldn't most parts be compatible with other 350 chevys?

Link please. Ive seen them can take over 600 hp on the stock bottom end i want to know what else they can take

yeah the more i look at them the more im liking them, probably gonna have them refinished if icant clean them up good enough.

yeah 77 440ci

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youtu.be/gOqwooshRxA?t=41s

It should be yea shit i even had a c3 intake manifold on my camaros 350 for a while. It's like the L82 or some shit maybe L48

i'm not gonna make the duster into a drift barge but i could see it ending up like this

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>have far too many cars as it is

I know that feeling very well, my current cost is 8 cars. I'm trying to get rid of several.

or about like this will be the way to go.
i think i have the chrome trim for around the grille and that will be one of the only shinies on the entire car

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The slant distributor gave it away
Over 1000 hp AT THE WHEELS? Jesus i am envious

this has a certain vile charm but has gone too far.

can anyone ID the wheels in that pic?

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That car ended up getting rear ended by someone on their phone

i feel like this is really clean but possibly too much to aspire to for the duster. i have also decided that since she has the 225 slant six, i'll turbo it instead of swapping to a 440.

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They're called D windows

Stock bottom end too, fucking nutso. He's doing a new budget friendly build with just a 4.8 and a smaller turbo with around 500whp I believe.

Clean cars have no charm, your Duster looks hella as is

F

But yeah, imagine that matte black look, maybe with tint, matt hex metal grille, challenger style headlights. I think that's what I'm gonna shoot for.
Not gonna straighten the bumpers or fix the flattened bondo countouring on the driver side fender. Just de-rust, re-paint.

Thanks for the tip on the D-window wheels, I'm going with them. current wheels are small bolt pattern but I was talking with a local mopar guy about swapping axles with a dodge pickup of the era which will include disc brakes and better bolt pattern for wheels.

I'd love to do a turbo build but i have a limited budget and i have a goal in mind

Dad just got home. Really loves it. Was very happy that I bought it for our project. Can't wait to start on it, but sadly it's probably going to have to wait for a couple weeks.

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the tail lights are going to come out because a design flaw of dusters/demons was no lip (or something) on them and they all rust out. someone already was in there once before putting in bondo, i'm just going to cut back to good metal and then put whatever fits in the hole that remains.
i'm thinking, semi-resto style mustang tail lights.
since this and being a four-eyes up front will confuse the fuck out of everyone once it's painted and bodyworked, i'll badge it as a legendary Vawajjro Medaworea, a rare car from Brazil.
>citation:
>18788839
>18789002

alright that's enough shitposting gentlemen, you will hear from me next when metal has been kissed with tools and cursing

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baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/d/1973-lincoln-continental-mk/6511934749.html

This guy had it up for 5 and just lowered it. Been for sale for a while. Thoughts?

fuck that's plush.
i'd love to graft on a front clip from a 68-70 car of some kind, and then do something for the back roofline, and keep the whole interior and ride quality

older LA block? I thought they painted those black but maybe not your year

Serious Question:
>to rake or not to rake?
And if yes:
>preferred method for raking?

I did an add a leaf on some springs i bought a few years ago
Not my nova but the same stance as mine

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>Price reduced to $3999 if you buy it by next Sunday 3/18. Otherwise I will donate it for a tax write off.
Donate to what? Goodwill? Wouldn't they just scrap it?

I like the turbine wheels, could use some new center caps
also the way the paint highlights the curvettes makes me erect

Yeah I don't know what the fuck that's about, 1 877 cars for kids? I'm debating offering him 2k

Isnt there a cars for kids charity

I say go for it. The thing is a beutiful land barge

That's a fair offer.

I was waiting for your opinion. Any other advice?

do it

would I be a tard if I tried to convert automatic windows to crank?
Trying to get rid of as much unneccesary electrical equipment as I can and seeing as the window motors have taken a shit twice I was wondering if it would be a pain to swap

I dont know what the market looks like for those Lincolns but based off the picture 2k is a steal

I think manual and power winfow regulators are different and youd have to make a hole for the crank while also plugging the hole left from the switch

They're wonderful cars; undervalued, comfortable, and fun. That looks like a nicer car than mine, too.

They're on the rise, but it's always been a buyer's market. I love them and they're the best candidate for baby's first classic.
I bet that, had Coastie bought one instead of his Dart, he'd have the exact classic experience he wants.

The center caps kept getting stolen.
They were about $800 a set pre-internet.
After the originals, and replacement sets got stolen (no garage), it's just better to not have them on. Fucking thieves.

I can get a set for $400 now, and take them off every night, or I can just put that towards new wheels.

I really like it. Gold looks good on it.

So I'm having the guy send me more shots of the trunk frame tomorrow cause the only pic wasn't the greatest. I'm HOPING it's cleaner than it looks.

In case I do get it;
>Where can I go to get floors welded in?
>How much would it cost to get floors welded in?
>Same for trunk pan?
>Swapping a front fender; easy peasy or difficult squeeze?

I know I should drop any interest in it, but the interior is decent, and a BBC + 5 speed + 3.73 gears is just calling to me. I'll probably pass once I get those pics, but I'll dream tonight

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It is a chebby 350 basically, with the Cross-Fire Injection system.
Stock it is 200hp.
Without opening the bank, I could maybe get it up to 300hp with $1,000 or so, after that it gets tricky, because of the CFI.

switching the crank/switch doesnt bother me, since ill have to redo door panels at some point if I want any semblence of comfy (damn spongy dryrotted vinyl)
replacing the entire window mechanism might but it depends on how much of a pain that is
current setup is:
>push switch up/down to "unlock" window
>use friction from hand to actually move the window
so its either that or buy ANOTHER motor
>release switch

I'm currently over 25, though a lot are demo/enduro cars.
Such a bad disease.
I wish I could stop.

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>The center caps kept getting stolen.
never actually heard that one lmao

I really hope the car hoarding bug doesnt bite me, Id like to just save that money and devote time to one or two at a time. Of course even while being in the poorhouse I catch myself looking at craigslist ads for things going "what if" so its probably a matter of time and space

Speaking of Corvettes and thieves, I bought a pair of c3 repair manuals and one of them got "lost" in the mail, they where in the same package. Somehow the package was "damaged" but officially repaired by postal service.

It takes all I have not to hop on CL or IAAI.
They start to stack up quick, pic is a few years old but little has changed.

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I picked up this brick for $350 this past week off of Craigslist. Title clean, bodywork is clean except for a minor dent to the left rear fender and some very minor surface rust, suspension and floor pans are completely rust free. There's some minor rust to the jack holes, but that's to be expected.
>what is it
1979 Mercedes 240D, manufactured 12/78 at Stuttgart plant. Manual windows, manual sunroof, MB-Tex seats. Odometer is at 209k miles, though I haven't confirmed whether that's accurate or not.
>what's wrong with it
Does not start, most likely the injectors need work - when cranking, fuel return lines leak like crazy. Electrical system most likely has some issues. Vacuum is leaky at best, fucked at worst. AC is trashed, weatherstripping is nonexistent, power steering probably doesn't work, rear diff and valve cover both leak badly. I accidentally engaged the steering lock with the key out yesterday, ignition tumbler and steering are locked up solid - I'll be fixing that tomorrow after work and ordering a new ignition if necessary.

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kek. I was a bit confused by it too, what with the distributor being on the correct end of the engine.

Looks nice. Old German cars scare me, man. But I know my fear has to be irrational. My 94 525i was a breeze to work on.

My dick is diamonds.


Anywho, even though the interior is sunfaded and bleached out, It's still nice and plush.

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Last one. I absolutely fucking love the gauge cluster on this car.

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I hope you guys have a lot of fun. My dad is not into cars so it's normally just A/V stuff we can work on together

the interior looks much better than I was expecting. 8.5/10 from those pics as far as classics are concerned

>Does not start, most likely the injectors need work
How do you figure?

The carpet is rotten trash, dash is cracked, and seats are sunbleached. Other than that, the interior is definitely in good shape for a classic. The headliner actually looks brand new though. The guy refinished the interior about 20 years ago and unfortunately left it to sit in the sun. Headliner wasn't touched by the sun.

The entire car is 100% complete too. All the window trim and everything. Nothing appears to be missing.

A solid base is the best start. As long as a car isn't rusted, everything else is minor.

If there is a community college near by with a welding class offer to donate the car as life practice for the class bring in the materials and they will do free labor if they take it. The college near me has been helpful

When cranking, it sprays fuel out of the (badly leaking) fabric injector return hoses - it's definitely getting fuel to the mechanical injectors, but they don't seem to be firing. The previous owner suspected the pump, I think it's probably something with the fuel system apart from the injection pump since it's working fine. I'll be replacing the fuel filters and checking the injectors sometime later this week, first I have to fix the locked up steering/ignition.

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Yeah, it's definitely a good base. Unfortunately there is some rust. Nothing too bad, a few holes here and there. Mostly along the edges of the fender wells. Worst of it is where it rusted through the floor pan in a few spots. The carpet got wet and time just did its work. I'll see what it looks like when I rip the carpet out, but just from a glance underneath the floor pans look very salvageable. Frame and all under carriage components have rust but it's just surface. I figure as long as I can shoot it with some undercoating or rust converter that should be good enough.

And after about an hour of internet searching last night, I did find a full set of weatherstripping for the car, for a reasonable price.

Got more pics of the trunk. Frame looks solid, and it was in fact leftovers from the trunk.

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I'll look that up, thanks.

So I needs to new front fenders, floor pans, trunk pan, driver lock replaced, trunk lock, and probably windshield resealed.

Through my quick google search I brought up about what you're going to be into it for floor pans. Note these are for a Pontiac grand prix so they might work but I'm not sure. (opgi.com/grand-prix/PAN02K/)

My bad tho, I forgot these have a brace that fit above the body bushings, it looked super weird in that grainy pic. Anyway, if you don't have a welder or know how to weld this is going to be expensive unless you can find someone who will weld for cheap like the user suggested with that community college but don't count on it. I can't feel the metal or look at it closely so I dunno how much good metal you've got around the trunk corners so if it's not good you'll need to fabricate a lot of stuff since there is only so much you can do with floor pans like that. If cutlass, drac, moparts, or someone experienced say's it looks doable then go for it but from here it looks like it'll be a big hassle for someone that dosen't have the correct tools, a shop, knowledge of fabricating or owing an actual welder.

Coastie what are you trying to do now?

I can look for a local college, or maybe pay a guy on base. Worst case, I could buy a cheap welder and give it a shot.

Some guy wants to trade a 70 Monte Carlo with a 454 and t5 for the dart

>Cars are considered """classic""" at 25 years old, but a vehicle really needs that certain something to be classic and, no, your shitbox 1993 Honda Miata is not a classic.
what's that "certain something"?

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That sounds too good to be true.

Rarity, style, luxury, muscle, niche interest. Stuff like that. It's all a matter of opinion though. As time goes on, the term "classic" includes such a broad range of vehicles that it's impossible to strictly define. Just post your car. If people like it, they will reply to it.

Well it does need 1 fender replaced, 1 patched, floor pans, trunk pan, paint, a door lock, and a resealed windshield. More race car than cruiser. But the drive train is solid/new, the frame appears solid, and the interior isn't totaled, so I'm willing to look at it. It's coming from an Army Warrant who needs something that's better on gas and "calmer for the wife", while I'd like to have a bit more fun.

And the paint is already totaled, so y'all can't give me shit when I spray it haha

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well thats reassuring

If you see issues, please let me know.

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Coworkers custom nail head wheels meant for a smart car

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Any tips on spraying. Im thinking of doing my firebird

Prep work is key.
-Don't cheap out on paint, and follow the recommend instructions. I did a layre of primer, sanded that all lightly with 1k grit, and wiped it down. I used an enamal high gloss automotive Paint with 1 part thinner, 1 part hardener, and 8 part painr. I sprayed coat after coat, maybe 5 mins in between (as instructed).
-Keep the gun moving before and after you press/let off the button.
-go in the same direction and keep the gun at the same distance from the car.
-more light coats is better than less heavy coats. I did 3 coats over the entire car, and its kinda orange peely, but I did 8 over a door (to try to fix a fuck up), and it's glass smooth.
-let it dry, then do a wet sand with 2k
-several layers of clear coat, finished off with buffing.

You can get a good 10 footer in 2 days, or take a long weekend and really take your time.

I skipped out on the buffing and as many coats, and it shows. Not obviously, but it could've been better. Still, for less than 300 for the paint and supplies (not counting the gun), Im very happy with it.

Oh,and wear a face mask, coveralls, and some fucking gloves. Took me 3 weeks to get all the paint off my hands.
And clean your gun nozzle with a wire brush and acentone after every coat

>Rarity, style, luxury, muscle, niche interest. Stuff like that.
that's simply retarded

Very comprehensive. Ill screencap this for when i get around to it. Thank you