Miata General

Truth

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But, OP, runningfree is my favorite 86 team!
youtu.be/WVe8PnXSeYM

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Are lowering springs worth it, or should i save up for proper coilovers? I've checked my auction site and harder, lower eibach springs are priced as low as set of cheap tyres, which looks like nice little upgrade to do. I don't care much about looks (i definitely like it though), but i'd be happy if my miata would behave better in corners on the track.

supposedly springs lower 25mm, which doesn't sound like much. i don't want to go into extreme stance shit, i don't want to make it unusable on road either (it's my dd), just make it a bit stiffer and more sporty. Should i do it?

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just get bc racing and call it a day

10w30 works. Just get any decent synth and it'll cure it for a while. As soon as the oil starts getting old though it'll start again. If you really want to get rid of it remove the lifters, disassemble, clean, and oil them.

You're better off changing the dampers. If you can, save up a little, get the springs and some koni sports. That'll make a big difference

>still calling it miata in the current year

this is why I mostly stay away from the mx5 community.

miata sounds good, as someone who's not english speaker i fail to understand why people even hate it. 'am ecks five' sounds terribly stiff

Not guaranteed to fix it.
'miata' just oozes American accent with the pronunciation, really. It's almost grating on non-American ears. It's not bad, it's just really different.
Chiming in with a yes on dampers. Mate did a TEIN Flex Z same time I did my Konis/FCM bumpstops with pretty much everything else the same. The konis were far more plush without being soft, the TEINs were quite jarring and too stiff, traction suffered on less than perfect surfaces. My stock springs in the rear are way too soft, though, takes ages for the weight to transfer but there's still more grip. You can always upgrade to ground control sleeves later on. Just don't fuck up the damper travel.

How gay is too gay, Veeky Forums?

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so, better dampers + stock springs > better springs + stock dampers? i always thought that ride height is kinda important when you have super high stock suspension

damn, I really like how this looks, I should take pictures with film more

anons I cant decide, should I get an na miata or a frs?

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MR-S with hardtop,rollbar,wheels+tires, and 2zz swap

if you have any time to spare, tinkering with simple 90's miata sounds like more fun than simply running around in a nice 86. but then again, you might have different opinion. you can keep nigger-rigging all of the stupid shit for it and there will be no harm whatsoever because it's just so cheap

Ride height is not as important as proper damping. Any lowering springs you buy are gonna be a lot stiffer than stock and the stock dampers cannot handle them. It will result in a sloppy rough ride.

The handling on the miata is of course one of its best characteristics, dont ruin it by cheaping out. Do a lot of research before you buy anything, there's more info out there about miata suspension than you could read in a lifetime.

I just cant decide because I like them both, I like the miata because I know its fun to drive, I like the idea of having a convertible I can easily pop the top off at any time and I like the style of the miata. but at the same time I love how the frs is one of the few good looking Toyotas and how its a fastback coupe inspired in part by the Toyota 2000gt as well as it being a relatively new and cheap car

overall I may just get the miata, because its cheaper to get and quicker to pay to get than the frs, but would I be just wasting my money if I got the miata first and later got the frs?

>having two cool cars
>wasting money
no
put your money in cars and never look back, it's always worth it. and having old miata project car combined with gt86 DD sounds amazing

You're never too gay for the touge.

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Had a master tech I'm working with recommend 5w20 for my NA. Is he retarded?

I want an RF lads. Should I get one with all the bells and whistles for around 40k leafbucks here in leafland? Or just get a base ND or maybe even 86 or BRZ?

The only way i can get rid of it in mine in the wintertime is using 10w40. Summer time i use 5w30 but if you dont want to clean out the lifters, all you can do is rev the motor high enough to force oil into them

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Can I DD a stock Miata year round? Currently nocar but I have a 2008 touring model with 50k on it for cheep nearby. It’s looking really fucking tempting.

If you don't live in a state with harsh winters and rust proof it, sure.

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pussies

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I'm looking to get a Miata as a fun weekend car. I figure this general is the place to ask: what are your opinions on this Miata? The low miles are very enticing.
philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/d/91-miata/6526093918.html

Get one that's unmolested.

Like these:

philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-mazda-miata-mx-5-se/6527209881.html

philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-mazda-miata-ls-6-speed/6526019087.html

What is the best solution for reducing glare from my instrument binnacle (reflecting onto the windscreen)? Looking at felt wrap or DIY flocking

Thanks for the advice user. I was hoping to get an NA though, I'm a sucker for the pop-up headlights.

The NA you posted isn't that bad apart from the wheels and the steering wheel desu.

Suh Aussie dude how's it going

I had great fun in the snow until I got beeched.
Shit was cash could do skids with out any issues

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i'm dding NB and it's fine even in my salt-ridden, heavy-winter country, you just need to keep in mind that from time to time you have to visit car painter guy

but you want NC (2008), and NC is not rusting. it sounds like perfect DD to me

I've seen that car before. that car is clearly built for going off road. My car is not.

Where is your off road miata? Since you aren't a pussy?

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Yes, going thinner than 30 for the hot oil will cause premature wear everywhere in the engine. It might seep into the lifters more easily, but it'll cause issues everywhere else. Not to mention leaks

C L E A N

boomer detected

>LOL IMMA RUN 10 WEIGHT LIGHTER OIL ON A 20+ YEAR OLD ENGINE
>LEAKS? NAH BRO
>PREMATURE WEAR ON CYLINDER WALLS? WHAT ARE YOU A FAGGOT?
remove yourself from the gene pool

1990 Miata with 156k for $2000
Good deal or no?

not bad. i guess it's a good price for 1.8 in good condition or flawless (as flawless as possible, we're talking about 30yo car) 1.6

just try to find a better miata paint job than this retarded pokemon hood that is on my local craigslist.

oh wait you can't

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Rotella t6

WHY THE FUCK WONT MY REAR AXLE NUTS COME OFF. I USED A 5 FOOT LONG BREAKER BAR AND JUST SPUN THE MOTOR WHILE IT WAS IN GEAR. I JUST WANNA REPLACE MY STRIPPED LUGS WITH A NEW KNUCKLE WITH NICE BUSHINGS.

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lol. I saw that on my local miata FB group, he is NOT selling the hood. BYOH situation. delusional. the side is also hilarious.

>live in college town in the northwest
>see a regular gaggle of shitty ridiculous "art" cars all the time
You will be dearly missed, BERNIE SANDERS 2K16 aerostar and homestuck kia

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the listing says:

>This Miata will come without a hood. Bring your own hood. If you want when you get here to look at the car you can sing the DMX song, "where the hood, where the hood, where the hood at?" I can include this hood but you have to compensate me for it. My friend painted the pokechu on the hood and she literally said "I will murder you if you sell this hood." That being said I will include it with the car if you cover funeral expenses. I think $100 should be enough. It'll be a low key funeral.

Impact. If you don’t have air just buy the electric impact from harbor freight.

Shall do so later in the week at a friends.
How are the HF electro impacts? I heard it's the only non-hand tool they sell that isn't pure garbage.

just picked up a '96 with 163k for $2800, has raceland ultimos, enkei RPF1s, catback, maybe a couple other things. Feel like it was a good deal for a weekend 2nd car, it had a mouse nest in the airbox and all the fluids look old but it made a 2 hour highway drive home without skipping a beat. Do I
>put another $3k into overnight JDM parts
>change all fluids (coolant, oil, brake, trans), clean up the interior and live with it as is
>do nothing, ride the shiny chrome train into valhalla

As always, br/o/s guide me right

>change all fluids (coolant, oil, brake, trans)
THEN, you overnight parts.

>put another $3k into overnight JDM parts
no
>change all fluids (coolant, oil, brake, trans), clean up the interior and live with it as is
yes
>do nothing, ride the shiny chrome train into valhalla
no

maybe slowly add cool parts but live with it for a bit after cleaning it up.

I already cleaned out the airbox and dropped a new filter in ($13.90 otd, are all the parts this gloriously cheap?)
picking up a good floor jack from a friend this weekend to get it up to do fluids, though I've never done trans or brake before. PO swapped in a tan leather STO interior but it's got a few flaws around the edges, namely the door cards. Are there any decent aftermarket cards that aren't wild expensive? And what shifter is best shifter, it came with a silly tall aluminum thing that can't stay and all the nice weighted wood ones I find on forums are going for $250

It's great except that the OP pic says '88 when the miata came out in '89

but the date in the photo is '93

kevin are you in here

Sorry for stalling your car 20 fucking times :^)

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>tfw mr2 will never take care of you

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As long as it is one that plugs into the wall it’s great. Use it more often than my fancy air impact. Never used it on anything crazy torqued on but it’s been great for axles nuts and the like. I’ve found that harbor freight wall plug tools are mostly fine, it’s the battery shit that sucks.

I think i'm gonna try replacing brake pads on my own. Never done that before, but i guess anything is possible with enough internet tutorials. Anyway, a question:

Is it possible that brake pads have various sizes and yet they fit into same brake thingie? I have no idea about this stuff whatsoever, now i'm trying to find brake pads and i'm lost. There is this one site that suggests parts after i pick a car, and it lists various brake pads for me to choose from. One of those pads has different size (all of the pads are 110x57mm, this one is 123x58mm). The one of different size is brembo, and i was using brembo stickers in need for speed so brembo has to be good. There is also other brembo pad, in smaller size (110x57 like every other one), but this one is twice as expensive for some reason. Should i get this bigger one? Will it fit into my stock 1.6 NB front brake thingie?

tl;dr do brake calipers have one single size of brake pads, or will i be able to fit various (close) pad sizes into it? i'm confused because website tells me that i can fit bigger ones into my stock miata, but somehow i feel like that's not true

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Just got my Miata yesterday night, the only problems as of now are, it is in need of an oil change, I have to get some new tires, and the horn doesn't work. As for the horn part do any of you B/o/ys have any recommendations for horns

Just popping in

this lady probably uses the best shifting technique

Use stock pads for stock calipers. If you had brembo calipers, use brembo pads.

I think i got it. 1.6 nb had optional sports package with bigger brakes, and bigger pads are for bigger brakes. Smaller ones would fit my car.

Though i just checked and brake pad is very thick, so there is no way it's used up. I guess there had to be different reason why my brakes are making funny sounds on slow speeds when warmed up.

Only get these if you actually like sucking dick

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I've found polarized glasses really help in this regard.

>tfw about to trade my aw11 for a miata + cash

its a NA 1.8 thats pretty clean and stock. its open diff though. anyone here swap diffs on their car?

Not sure with the 1.8's I know my 1.6 needs a 1.8 driveshaft, 1.8 halfshafts to fit it. Open wheel is fine for the street, but even the VLSD is miles better.

They would work, less stiff than stainless but I imagine you'd not notice. It's the gap that's crucial but I've never been huge about drilling into my chassis.