Post a better car for $9000

There is no way that generation of mustang GT can be had for 9k

Only draw back is that the stock bottom end limits power to about 425-450 rwhp with F/I, not bad but there is a definite ceiling even with a spot on tune.

>2006 Boxster
>$9k

Don't think so pal.

You're not having one of those for 9k unless 1.) you're in Europe and it's a damaged UK import or 2.) the IMS bearing failed and the engine ate itself.

2005-2009 Mustang GTs can be found under $10k all day long son

It already has a panhard, between the Z and that it's more a case of the cleanest, cheapest one you can find.

Just looked in my area and while not that new I'd rather have one of these than a lot of the shitboxes recommended

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I weigh 120 pounds and the chassis is capable of withstanding over a thousand horsepower.

Oh yeah you can find 986s starting around 7k if you're lucky. Fried egg headlights are subjective, interior on the 987 is much better though.

Manlet? Or sloot?

That doesn't change the fact that you sitting on the right side is worse than sitting on the left side as far as control dynamics go; you acting as a counter weight rather than exasperating the problem.

Now give me an objective reason why RHD is better?
>Protip: You can't.

you initially posted a 2006 boxster and now you're poster a 2000 boxster. Big difference between those two desu

>120 pounds
Post boi butt

Ayyy Minnesota
Glad to have the sun back?

If I'm going to spend money modding i rather do it on a better platform than that piece of shit

>st Paul
Don’t buy it it was probably raped by hmongs. Cool people but they’re harsh on their cars.

>there are only two people on the internet

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8th gen Civic SI

Driver position is down to factors that predate the car. You're lying to yourself if you honestly believe that it can have an effect on the car in the slightest.

Fact is, the wheel is on the right for us because of the Romans, and then the steam engine.
It's on the left for you because of Napoleon (in Europe) and in the US wagon trains needing multiple horses to pull them. The driver sat where he could whip the most horses.

>muh tradition
No one ever said LHD was designed that way because it was the best for performance; it just happens to be better for performance than the alternative. Just like RHD wasn't designed to be worse than LHD, it just happens to be. We've learned better now, and while you can't change all of the cars and roads in your country to be better, you can stop defending wrong hand drive on the internet.

Literally anything
Old 3 series, old Miata, old mustang, old trans am, old c*maro

honda s2000

Found the ricer. It's already an excellent platform

find a Honda S2000 that has a clean title, no rust, no body damage and has under 150k miles for $9k you cuck

I can name a better car for $5000.

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Might as well get an RX-8 and slap a turbo on it. They will burn the same amount of fuel.

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>They will burn the same amount of fuel
I meant Oil.

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literally everywhere wtf

link one rn cuck

Honda prelude

Easily.
Mint condition 1988 BMW 535is

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Not even close, I have one of the first 350Zs built and I check my oil monthly I've never had to top it off. That might differ depending on which year it was made and what engine. I even ran an oil analysis test and my engine was found to be perfectly healthy.

It's a meme, you dip. Don't get defensive over your shitbox.

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1995 F-150.

carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/35433888
carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/34810354

link a 350z that hasnt been molested faggot
>hardmode: isn't listed as "350z SuperSport Enthusiast Edition Super Fartcan Rally Edition"

>this was me almost 2 years ago
>wanted a V8 or I6, rwd, manual for under $8.5k
>spent 6 months waiting for shit to show up with occasional test drives
>Z33 with a clean history, heated seats (a weakness of mine), no mods and not sagging front bumper shows up
>begrudgingly test drive it
>find great throttle response, great seat/pedal/shifter/wheel placement, what I define as good handling
and that's how I ended up buying a fucking nissan

my parents had a 2004 boxster, ims bearing gave because they never did anything about it, but it was a great handling car with fantastic sound while it was alive, had a heavy clutch with good feedback and good feeling long throwing shifter, only thing is the interior manages to be more cramped than an NA6 miata so unless you're a manlet I wouldn't consider daily driving or long trips with these

1 and 4/5ths of a miata

The 13B-MSP eats apex seals when its turbo'd. Expect around 10k miles before you need to rebuild.

I'm assuming that there are specialty kits designed to make the Renesis withstand boost, but still, the cost of turboing it AND rebuilding it will be ridiculous.

2005-2009 mustang. You can get one in great shape for About 9k

>I can name a better car for $5000
Where the the fuck are you finding a TA for 5K? Anything I find around that range is full of problems. A clean TA is easily 15K where I live.

Florida

>quicker
>More utility
>Tunability
>Turbo laggin
>Front wheel driven
>German Hatch boi

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PROS
>Fast for the pricepoint
>Reasonable fuel economy for an OEM turbocharged engine
>Sedan, carry your friends
>Decent cargo space
>Rally legend
>More comfortable than an EVO

CONS
>Vape
>Head-gaskets
>Doesn't perform as well as an EVO in most OEM circumstances

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GTI lyfue

this

wish i had spent a little more to get a LGT/OB XT instead of a 2003 legacy l

Mk6's are neat but for tunability, mk7 is unbeatable. Can't wait for the prices to drop once the mk8 comes out.

Literally any LS F body, go fuck yourself OP

any bmw ever made

>Post a better car for $9000
>Nissan

I'll bite

literally anything else that costs $9000

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>hillbilly's kid's porsche
>quicker
lel

where the fuck do you live that a 350z cost that much

this 2011 subaru legacy with 91k miles is going for $9k. should i go for it?

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He posted a 2010 which has the same body as the first 5.0s but still has the 3 valve. You might find a 2010 for around 9k if you look hard enough

I’m unironically debating between one and a 350Z. The LS1 is a stripper Hardtop 2001 Z28 T56 with Koni DAs/Strano Springs/35mm Bar and new control arms all around, Bone Stock Drivetrain down to Lid and Exhaust. Mostly used for autocross with 70k miles for $7500. Pic Related.

Zs are usually 03-06 6spds, stock for $6-9000. Can’t find any HRs worth a shit. Only thing that kills me is the cost of sticky wheels and tires on either car, the F-Body more than the Zs (less common bolt pattern, needs wider tires to handle well).

>needs wider tires to handle well
275's aren't wide enough?

This is probably the fucking dumbest post I’ve ever read
This makes absolutely no fucking sense either
Right hand drive is objectively superior for one major reason.
>the majority of the world is right handed
If the dominant side of your body is only tasked to control your fat ass in your metal missile instead of things like fucking with HVAC controls, radio controls, and shifting gears, there is an overall safer driving environment.

Not to mention if you’re right handed and want to text and drive, you’re forced to use your left hand more, which can be annoying, which will drive you to do it less and fucking pay attention to driving.

A Z can get away with 255s while the common fitments on Fbodys are 275-295s up to 315s.

However the Zs have a more sophisticated traction control that helps and hurt it. They’re super planted and impossible to spin and their ABS is much more sophisticated than the GM’s that can kick in under hard braking giving too much rear bias (can damage ring and pinion, you get around by using shit pads in the rear and good pads in the front). It also helps the VLSD.

HOWEVER it works against the car by forcing you to use a staggered setup on Zs while Fbodys can run squared setup easily. Common Z33 setup is 275 rear and 255s front (20mm difference between front and rear). If you run a squared setup it upsets the vehicle stability control and traction control on Zs (stability control cannot be turned off Zs at all without disabling ABS).

The Zs also have a way more common bolt pattern and offset while the Fbodys are only really shared with Corvettes (BMW stuff is too narrow usually). 275s or 295s all around are $$$.

Pretty much any diesel Mercedes turbocharged :)

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Huh.
I run a set of C5 wheels on my '99 Z28 (245F/275R) and it doesn't have TCS. I think I've only activated the ABS once on it but I've never tried autocrossing, just spirited driving on the street.
The more expensive rear tires are only $140 a pop for me, which is cheap compared to a friend's '13 ZL1 and his ~$300 rears.

This is from a while ago, but could you(or someone)elaborate on Mk6 v Mk7 tunability?

For 9k? What does it have like 200k on it and a burned out clutch?

Yeah this is the car I’m looking at, I’m checking it out this weekend. I don’t expect Miata/Evo/STi handling but I hope it’s decent at least. Pic related. Is the price right ($7500 obo)? Only other car I can think of comparable being a 350Z.

autox4u.com/for-sale/2001-camaro-z28-for-sale/

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Well, it's NJ and if it's a rust-free car then maybe.
If he autocrosses it then he's probably at least done subframe connectors and other chassis work to make it handle better.
The LS1 engine and T56 are both good components, making the car perfect really just comes down to replacing the rear with a more durable unit.
Where I live hardtops and uncracked dashes are pretty rare too. It's also a less common color.
I'd say this is a pretty nice example, all told. Not sure where the OEM steering wheel went though. I don't know if I'd want to drive around with that one for long.

No subframe connectors but all new bushings and arms. I want to do C6 or CTSV Brakes. Guy is a middle aged high school teacher so the car has been taken care of. It does have the 1LE Koni DA struts.

Mostly rust free, a little bit of surface rusting on the floors but it shouldn’t be too crazy based on mileage. I’m getting it on jackstands before I agree to anything to get a good look underneath.

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easiest thing I have done in so long

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Careful where you jack it.
I've seen people that fucked their cars up jacking in the wrong places. Don't jack on any part of the fenders, because they're fiberglass and will break.
I think the price is including both sets of wheels and tires, too, so factor that in. You'll have a "good set" and a "bad set" to work with, though I'm not really a fan of those particular Motegi's.

He sold the Motegis and Rivals off for dirt cheap on FRRAX (like $3-500). And yeah I’ll just let him jack it. Thanks.

>sub $9000
good luck there buddy

Not OP but i want to get myself a v8 landbarge for the summer. Are these cars somewhat reliable or am i going to get fucked in the ass?

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with the 3.6L engine

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>5 years and 350z will be new 240z
I am thinking about buying one

here in Germany they are twice as rare as a fucking 911, constantly getting sold for 14k.

the e55 w210 is pretty reliable you shouldnt really have any issues with the engine or trans or anything if maintaned like a normal person
if you go to change every little thing to the merc dealership maybe you will get fucked in the ass
mercs generally have very strong and reliable running gear but shitty electronics sometimes
I am planning on getting an e55 w210 too one day but by the looks of it wont be any times soon

go away adam LZ

>you shouldnt really have any issues with the engine or trans or anything if maintaned like a normal person
This is what I don't get about German "reliability".
Your shit works fine as long as you autistically adhere to the maintenance schedule, which to me signals that what's really happening is that the car is made with such tight tolerances that they can't take any abuse that would throw them off. It's not reliability, it's a fraud.

bruh I mean shit like if you dont change trans oil you will get transmission problems
I have to change a control arm bushing on my merc for more than a year but never got around it because frankly you cant even tell its dead unless you jack up the car and try to move the wheel
thats what german reliability is
if it was some shitty japanese shitbox it would start to shake and turn into a death machine

You can find a 986 s for around 10k where I am

>v6

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People complain about german cars purely because they're a bitch to work on and because of that they're expensive to repair. I think the notion that they're unreliable stemmed from that issue originally.

You would have to be a goddamned moron to pay more than 5k for this, yeah it's a fun toy but they sell for dirt nowadays. At least get a G37 coupe for 9k, or a C5 Corvette, or go with the AMG guy if you can find a clean E55 with keyless go and black interior

damn even 370Z's are fucking cheap where I live
autoscout24.be/nl/resultaten?mmvmk0=52&mmvmd0=19190&mmvco=1&cy=B&powertype=kw&atype=C&ustate=N,U&sort=price&desc=0

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>blocks your path

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04 Boxster S

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Coming Through for less money

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the true bargain is spending a little more and getting the HR

Won't get a STI for 9k ,but a WRX easily

>3700lb Twin Turbo V6 with cramped engine bay

>IMS Issues

Actually dipping into the $9-10k range occasionally.

Yeah with a blown motor/headgasket/spun bearing. Usually $12-14k for one with miles. Not the most reliable cars either.

>Saying that a miata is 5k
Underage because no adult would be this retarded