No R33 Skyline Love?

gonna have to disagree with you. This R32 in white is about the sexiest R32 I've ever seen. (the widebody adds to it though)

oh yea forgot about white. white/black/grey are the only good colours. rest suck.

>my bad
youtube.com/watch?v=zt1fd_hQzK0

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front looks sick, idk about the rear

You're all methhead dropkicks

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R33 Skylines are legal in the US now. The GT-R is the only model you can't get until 2020.

And Sean Morris has predicted that the R33 GT-R demand will far outstrip the R32 and R34 GT-R. Because it's more refined than the R32 but cheaper than the R34. Also because it's bigger and Americlaps like bigger cars.

>Sean Morris
literally who? and its why i've bought 3 33 gtr's because they're gonna moon bitch.

engine wise what changed between the 3 generations? RB26 that is

nothing really, oiling issue from r32s was fixed and some slight tweaks, but r33 was the pinnicle of changes for the rb26. r34s engine stayed the same except for adding a 6 spd

the shittiest skyline generation

iirc oiling was fixed in the '93 model year of the R32 from February until the end of production.

yea late 32s fixed it, but earlier ones had it, it's a simple upgrade but people are all about muh stock bottom end, i'd rather build a 1000hp rb26 and tune it to 550-600 and flog the piss out of it.

nah. you still get oil pooling in the head. the sump is still too small, and you can still shatter the oil pump gears on a long nose crank.

elaborate, what is a long nose crank? and why does it affect oiling?

I was reading through forums and found posts from some Aussies who build R32's for racing and apparently the oil pooling in the head is not a major problem, the biggest issues were the oil pan baffling and the weak gears on the oil pump.

You can get R33s in the US retard

They're common as fuck here in Australia, most of them are the GTS-T models, just about every one you see is a clapped out piece of shit with mismatched panels and the clear coat peeling off everywhere.

Worked at Motorex back when they imported Skylines to the US, now works at IVI/Toprank. Has been in importing for decades now. Brought in one of the first (if not the first) R32 Nismo under show and display.

Not quite. R34 turbos are ball bearing, safer to run them at 1 bar of boost. The coilpacks are different, igniter is built into them instead of an external unit. Cam angle sensor is also different and the drive off the exhaust cam is different for the CAS. The ECU is shared with the R33 but adds a transponder immobilizer (the key is different as a result, plastic instead of all metal).

Oiling issues are less of a problem on the R33 and R34 but in general oil coolers and diff coolers are needed on all of these cars if you intend to track them. Also, oil pan baffling + cam cover baffling + catch can/oil separator + head restrictor (depends on what kind of oil pressure, RPMs, you're running) if you want to run slicks and pull lots of Gs. Supertec spline drive oil pump gears are also recommended, it's basically a copy of the 2JZ design which means you'll never worry about oil pump failures again if everything is done right.

Don't do an oil head drainback mod. It's counterproductive at best and in reality the function is not an oil drain but another crankcase vent. Unnecessary on street cars running less than 2 bar of boost and less than 10k RPM redline. Oil restrictor, proper baffling, good crankcase ventilation will fix these problems without the clusterfuck that the external drainback mod does. RB26 N1 had a 1.2mm oil restrictor + swinging oil pickup for Super Taikyu endurance racing: gtr.co.uk/forum/343514-rb26-oiling.html and freshalloy.com/archive/index.php/t-137094.html

Even then, wet sump will always have limits. You want a dry sump for a true full race engine. But that's super impractical and forget about getting your oil up to temperature in short drives

if i were to mod my rb26 i think i'd want a streetable setup and not a track monster setup.

would you consider dog engagement gears as streetable? i want to push about 600 through the tires and to rip gears, etc. i was thinking 1-3 dog engagement, 4th to be a strengthened gear and 5th to be the normal gear, is this possible?

Are you talking about straight cut vs helical cut? Don't get straight cut gears. You don't gain much in the way of strength and it will easily become the worst thing about driving the car for a street setup.

If you mean dogbox vs synchros, dogboxes are streetable if you can shift well. They will be clunky (expect to hear a clunk when shifting if you don't get it right) and I would be careful with them, they are hard on the drivetrain and AWD means that the tires won't slip nearly as easily.

The PPG gearset is 1st through 4th dog engagement and 5th remains standard Nissan synchro. Make sure to get it built properly or you'll have issues. If you regularly fuck up shifts (a lot of clunks/bangs like a machine gun) expect to replace the dogs after 20k miles. If you don't, it'll last the life of the car.

If you want a street car to take to track days every so often but mostly just to have fun and not worry about lap times the Getrag V160 from the R34 will take like up to ~600 whp. Important thing is what tires and surface you're on. If you're talking drag slicks and dragstrip prepped surfaces you need a lot more gearbox to handle the shock loads.

What reliability mods would you recommend for a ~400whp R32? Mostly street use with the occasional track day

Depends on how hard you push. If you're not going to push that hard (not bouncing off of redline, not much stickier than Michelin PSS/PS4, overfilling oil to top bump for track days) then you should just consider a Nismo air oil separator + Mine's cam cover baffles. Also consider a diff cooler and oil cooler. Greddy makes an oil cooler that also relocates the oil filter to somewhere less absurd.

I'm assuming you're going to be running steel turbines like the GT2859R-9 for that power goal, the stock ceramics are probable capable of running 400 whp but not for long.

If you really want to go nuts a baffled oil pan, Nismo oil pump (not N1 which is sintered gears that will fall apart quickly), Supertec spline drive, and Tomei oil head restrictor (1.5mm).

Keep in mind this isn't strictly necessary, just stuff that could help if you have a good engine builder. If you don't all bets are off: gtrusablog.com/2018/01/oil-pumps-on-rb-series-engine-true-or.html

Thanks for the info, I was planning on doing the baffles, oil pump/spline drive and the restrictor. I was thinking of doing some of the less invasive work myself but it seems like I'll have to find a good shop in my area to do it. You don't happen to know the Seattle area at all?

Not particularly. Google should help. Offhand I found a place called Up Garage USA which might be good, hard for me to say. Definitely not something you want to fuck around with. Find someone good.

I'm assuming the 6 speed from the r34 bolts right up to the 32? i'm only road racing, hill climbs, etc. not drag racing, even if i was to drag race i wouldnt chuck slicks on it.

I believe it takes some work but it does fit. Nismo claims you have to hammer out part of the floorpan. Among many other things.

Honestly I'm not going to tell you no as far as the Getrag goes. My "perfect" R33 would have the Getrag 6 speed and Nismo 3.916 final drive conversion to get the same highway gearing as the 5 speed with 4.11 gears. 3.545 gears are a little too long for the RB26 when boost kicks in at like 3500 RPM. Driving at 80 mph would put me around 3400 RPM with the Getrag and 3.916 vs 3000 for the 3.545 final drive.

But my logical recommendation is the PPG 1st-4th helical dog gear set. Much cheaper, more durable.

aussie here im sick of htem nothing but grey imports for decades

Ah ok. Yea I was leaning towards the headset anyways and maybe get a longer 5th so I can sit at a lower rpm when doing 110kmph which is like 70mph

r33 sucks get a mustang

z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/tomei/tomei-r32r33r34-gtr-3692-final-drive-gear-set-p-11458.html

If you drop the final drive to a lower ratio you'll get a long highway gear. It gives you something roughly equivalent to losing first gear on a Getrag 3.545 box while making second gear shorter if you combine it with a PPG gearset.

>Don't get a 25 yr old turbocharged AWD Japanese high end sports car, you should instead get an American RWD V8 instead.

You aren't a brainlet because you like mustangs as they are great cars, you're just a brainlet for having this type of thought and then actually typing it out and putting it on a forum.

God it must be boring living in a flyover state

My advice though is do the gearset first. Once you get a good feel for it if you feel like RPMs need to be lower across the board then get a final drive change. A taller final drive (lower ratio) will increase RPM drop across gears and generally cost you some acceleration.