New QTDDTOT

I've got a stupid question because im a cuck

I bought some nitto summer tires for my mustang 4 years ago, and got a nail stuck too close to the sidewall to be repairable in one of them sometime last year, so now I'm stuck with 3 tires with decent tread and I'm outside the roadside hazard protection for replacement. Not only that, that particular tire is no longer for sale/manufacture so I can't get a direct replacement. Plus I don't want one brand new tire and 3 tires with less tread that sounds fucking retarded.

What should I do?

>remove and sell the 3 good tires, get a whole new set for $$$
or
>get 2 new tires, use 2 of the 3 until they're done, and continually only replace 2 tires at a time

I know the obvious financially sound answer is to just get 2 new tires but I'm still frustrated that it was somehow irreparable and don't want to accept the fact that I wont have all my tires of the same make and tread wear (roughly)

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Other urls found in this thread:

ukpoc.co.uk/forum/
youtu.be/3sYuJMz7mk8?t=182
inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/1989-toyota-corolla-gts-for/6531076044.html
amazon.com/Dorman-76999-HELP-Window-Latch/dp/B000CSZIXY
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

My car has different tyres front and back.

Doesn't feel any different to me

>have a new Honda
>call to schedule service at BMW dealer (oil change)
>BMW dealer says they can't do an oil change on a Honda because they don't have the tools

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They probably think Honda owners are cheap and they don't wanna use up their valuable time doing a basic oil change for you when there's BMW owners to sucker.

how do I get enough vagina yeast to make e85?

guys I want a foxbody but the v8 sips fuel like crazy. opinions on the v6 and even the 4 banger lol

V8 will use fuck all more fuel if you're driving it the same.

Had a V6 for s year and now own a V8. My mpg’s are the same. I don’t think anyone actually gets the “city” mileage.

What would make for a better daily, a 2004+ Crown Vic or a 1st/2nd gen Mazda 6 v6?

So, I've been away from this board for a while and noticed something was different.
What happened to Vinbro?

And on that, anyone know of any sources for VIN number info that isn't a site wanting your credit card info and such?

Is it normal for a NA to idle at slightly lower than 1000rpm

/r/ing a quick rundown on the Ford Probe
Do they have legendary build quality like miata, or legendary nightmare to maintain like FD? Or does being made in the US mean they're not golden-era mazda

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if it has a massive cam, yeah

is there anything I ought to know about nissan's VQ35DE engine? It's the one they put in the Altima coupes among other vehicles.

I REALLY like the look of the altima coupes, and they have a pretty decent aftermarket by now. I really like the late 2008-2009 models with the thicc flared rear fender hips. end goals are to turbocharge it, perfect the exhaust, and MAYBE switch to forged internals when I want to get to over 400whp, if money permits

although I prefer these years, what would you consider the best year of altima coupe 3.5 and are there any common problems with the VQ35DE I should rectify when getting one. I'll be buying a manual model of course.

I drive a 1990 probe as a daily. they are FANTASTIC cars, especially as daily. if you're looking for a good looking unique car, this is for you.

they get a bad wrap because they're previous owners were mostly kids that rode the ever loving shit out of them. and this mostly applies to the 4-bangers and 4-turbo GTs. get yourself a low mileage LX version with the vulcan for ultimate reliability, manual preferably, however they're rare in manual.

low mileage probe shipped to you shouldn't cost more than $3000. immediately check the valve cover gasket, because the oil pressure sensor usually stops working.

if you want a dirt cheap car that looks good, buy a base model 4-banger and expect it to last a hard working year or two. aftermarket for these cars are slim, especially the v6. you can buy any old ranger mod for the vulcan, but getting it to fit in the transverse FWD engine bay is a serious trial of patience and fabbing skill.

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We only got 2nd gen in Europe (almost all manual at least). My bad for not being more specific and posting the first pic off google. They're still cheap tho, plenty of low mileage ones below 3k, mazda i4s and v6s (no vulcan for us). I've been looking through ukpoc.co.uk/forum/ and people seem to be managing to find used parts out of mx6 despite the odd horror story.
I'll keep an eye out for mods, sticker marks and other signs of racer boy owners.

Went to a Toyota dealership and they claim that financing doesn't count as reported credit history unless it's been paid continuously for 12 months and that credit history from a car matters

Are they full of shit and just trying to make me pay interest like a good goy?

My car got a new starter installed and now it burns through one of the fuses when power is turned on (key in position 1).
In the beginning it didn't do it everytime, and I could start the car, shut engine down, replace the fuse, start the car again and it wouldn't burn through.
But now it does it everytime. Thoughts?

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Is it that much better and cheaper to change my own engine oil? I'm open to being more hands on with my vehicle.

I can't speak for the later generations. you posted a first gen (arguably the best looking generation). the I4s here are mazdas as well. super reliable, but what I4 isn't? if you get the 4 cylinder, it should last you a good long time.

Short circuits burn your fuses.
Check your cabling to and from the starter.
There really is no other option if your starter is truly ''NEW''.
Might be positive ground touching somewhere it shouldnt or you have misplaced something.

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I'm pretty sure that's bullshit. the only way to get a real answer though is to call your regional credit bureaus and ask. in america, it's equifax, transunion, and experian AFAIK. They're the only ones that are truly allowed to tell you what affects credit and to talk about your credit directly.

I got a used car loan as my first credit building loan and paid it off within a year, my credit boosted quite a bit based of this loan solely. that's just me though.

You're usually better off financing through a bank anyway, so ask around your local banks and credit unions for quotes too if you're looking to build credit. unless you're being offered a long interest free period and credit building isn't a particularly big point, AND you intend to pay off the majority of the loan during that interest free period, is it usually worthwhile, since you won't get to haggle on price and are at their whims for interest rates and fees.

Double clutching/heel-toeing.
Is that the car equivalent of rev matching on a motorcycle? Revving the engine to match the revs of the gear you're shifting down to?

Vics are called land barges for a reason, theyre big and like using lots of gas. Probably the mazda IMO

When insurance companies ask if the car has any "custom equipment" what counts for that? Engine swaps? Anything thats been added/modified that wasnt there when it left the factory? Im asking because i just bought another car and if i stay in my current town i know itll get hit within a year or two. Im already planning an engine swap, some bolt ons and who knows what else if this becomes a track/hoon car. No point in wasting time and money if insurance isnt going to pay me back for it if/when it gets hit
VB found his dream car, he was only running checks because he got a year membership or something to a vin check site so if he did 2 checks or 200 it didnt matter. He ran checks for free while checking vins of cars he was considering. As far as a free check, you can make an ebay listing with the vin and itll provide a free basic check for anyone to view. Itll say something like "accident reported", "possible odometer rollback", or something, but you cant view specifics. Should be good enough for most situations tho, just delete the ad after youre done

>getting ready to do an oil change for the first time on this car I inherited
>find out that wherever p/o got the oil changed replaced the drain plug with a non-OEM/factory-standard plug
>OEM drain plug head size is 14mm
>this plug's head size is 17mm
>dont know what to do for the crush washer
The car's supposed to come with a 14mm drain plug but it has a 17mm one on it apparently and the only replacement plugs I can find on rockauto are 14mm (they dont sell the washers separate). I can buy some washers at o'reilly but then I'm pretty much out a working car until I find a crush washer that fits so I can fill the engine back up with oil

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ye

Arent crush washers only a 1 or 2 time use? Regardless its there to help prevent leaks, so if it doesn't leak with the bigger plug you probably wont need it. Consider yourself lucky the fucking idiot at Jiffy Lube or wherever it was changed at didnt cause any actual damage due to their incompetence. Ive seen a spark plug jb welded into an engine after coming back from a "" shop"" like that

Any problems with 13 Dodge Avengers? Might get for my first car.

my car had its timing belt done at 101k miles
i bought the car at 180k now at 206k
am i living on borrowed time?

why am i imagining the guy in the pick driving past yelling answeres to questions at me?

If I bought a Toyota Prius in decent condition with 225k miles on it, how long / how many more miles could I expect it to last for?

>prius
>225k miles
if that thing isn't less than $500 forget it

oh, really? it's $3000. thanks, guess i'll ignore it then.

Pls respond.

If they actually service it at regular intervals it will have less wear on parts like brakes and could probably give you another 100k miles. If they don't, you're better off looking for a different one. The price matters, though.

I just ran over a giant pothole in the dark. My wheel is undamaged and tire is still pressurized, but something feels off.
Can a pothole misalign your steering geometry?

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was it extremely painful?

I'm a big guy

Check alignment.

>I want to buy a car but it's in another state and it has over half a million miles. It's nice, it's the one I want, and it's cheap. Owner says it's freshly rebuilt 30,000 miles ago.
Is this a good idea?

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will a quality 12-point socket round off a bolt before a quality 6-point socket, or would they both round bolts off at around the same torque?

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pretty sure more points means less surface area to contact so greater chance of it slipping

Did i fuck up

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If you're worried about fuel efficiency then you're just wasting your money buying a V6/I4 Mustang. The aftermarket is poor, they aren't as reliable and the V6/I4 models usually have other subpar drivetrain components among other things on the car. I know specifically for the SN95 Mustangs, the V8s have 8.8 LSD rear ends while the V6s have the 7.5 open diff rear end. What you think you might make up in fuel economy you'll end up losing everywhere else.

i need a cheap vehicle that can tow ~3k-3.5k pounds. hard mode: 4cyl or 6cyl only (gas is expensive here), around $1500, and preferably 18+ mpg. ive only been looking at trucks that meet these req's, but im open to any type of vehicle

walmart speakers are walmart speakers. They are almost always better than stock but they aren't the best. Who cares though, super nice speakers are only as good as the room they are in and cars don't make for a good acoustic environment. You did good.

>1.5 ton towing capacity
>inline 4
>$1500
>18+ mpg
I would buy that godmachine in a heartbeat

I'm hoping I can tune them so they sound okay. They werent cheap, for my, aviary l anyway. Shitload of dsp settings on my stereo for time delay and low/high pass filter, just don't know enough about it yet

yeah i knew i was asking a lot, i havent found much here that fits. the price req means early 2000s or later, but i rarely see an i4 just v6's that get like 15 mpg. best ive found was a ranger at almost 446k that i really wanted to see to 500k, but it looked pretty rough

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Yeah, you could easily wreck a ball joint doing that, would cause steering issues

No it's a meme. Stay clean and pay a shop the $30 or whatever.

It's Dodge, so, avoid. Consistently ranked the least reliable vehicles in America

Change your belt right fucking now

>mfw my shitbox has 180k miles and has no maintenance history
>can see visible cracks on the belt
>mfw

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I had a 2006 Silverado 2wd, regular cab 5 speed manual with the 3.10 final drive and 4.8 liter V8. It got ~22mpg in town and up to 28mpg on the highway. Hook a trailer to it and it got 11mpg though. Sold that in great condition with new tires, brakes and clutch and a full tank of gas for $1800 a few years ago.
Shoulda bought my truck

What's the metallic clacking sound that sounds like a pinball machine in the hamster video?

youtu.be/3sYuJMz7mk8?t=182

Is it supposed to be anti-lag? Sounds different somehow.

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Depends on the car. Sometimes marginally cheaper, sometimes a whole lot cheaper. But most of those shops hire people with very little experience and next to no real certifications and they sometimes fuck up, like stripping out the drain bolt, only getting the drain bolt on finger tight, same with the oil filter etc. and most of these small fuckups will lead to you totalling your engine if they aren't fixed promptly, and if they can somehow prove it wasn't their fault then you're stuck with the bill.

Those small fuckups only happen like 0.01% of the time though, so it's not something to really worry about too much. Probably the biggest benefit to changing your own oil is having to get underneath the car, so you're kind of forced to check out the underside for stuff like rust bad parts etc.

sounds like two BRAPS

inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/1989-toyota-corolla-gts-for/6531076044.html
I want a cheap project car but this car has 400,000 miles on it. Is it worth it dropping a new engine on such a used car? When I google the question it just gives me a bunch of links to 250,000+ mile clubs.
inb4 "hur dur Initial D faggot go drift off a cliff"

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Do niggers steal stock head units?

Would i be stupid to buy a ten year old Porsche Cayenne for $10k with 120k miles on it

Its due, get it done

get a touareg for less

Youve got a short to ground, what type of car do you have.

NEVER PUT A BIGGER FUSE IN THE SPOT
That will fry a wiring harness or melt a fuse block quick

>niggers steal
FTFY

Custom equipment is just that.
Save your receipts and if your insurance is nice they'll consider that "value" if your vehicle is wrecked.
Friend got an extra few bucks after he had been hit cause he had his receipt for a sound system he had installed

>I bought some nitto summer tires for my mustang 4 years ago
How in the hell have you not worn them off yet?
And yeah, the answer is to buy a pair and keep the third as a spare.
Stop being a pussy about fuel economy.

What's the best older BMW coupe with stick shift for under $15K? Preferably one with an I6.

Are they nailed down?

>least reliable vehicles in America
really because i checked 2017's list and it was Lexus, Ford, Chevy and Tesla with the shittiest cars of 2017. I checked 5 different websites and didnt see any dodge vehicles.

Is a Mk3 Supra a good car to learn to wrench on?
I kind of want to get one, either with a 7M-GTE or try to do a 1JZ swap.

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The best vehicle to start learning to wrench is a 90s chevy 2wd truck. Its massive and has room to reach for just about any parts that need replacement. Also, if something went wrong, some redneck in west Virginia figured it out and put it on youtube

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It's an old Lada.
Pic unrelated.

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It will probably work out cheaper to buy one in decent condition desu

no, heavy and 7m is garbage
if this is your first big boy car to wrench on buy something fwd and dirt cheap. Fix it up and learn how everything works on it to a t. From there you can make a decision on what you want to sink all your money into
If only they had a sticky on car buying advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>trying to not look poor while being poor
Live within your means you dumbass, if you have to ask you clearly cant wrench on it yourself
A is for autisim
>>falling for the "oh i just rebuilt my car dumping a ton of money in it and now im handing if of the next guy!!!!!!!" meme

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Someone tell me if I did this right and/or if I missed any steps

>Have car that has oxidized paint (aka foggy, no longer shiny paint)
>Autostore rep says to use Meguiars Rubbing Compound to cut away the foggy-ness
>Do so and use Meguiars Carnuba car wax to "seal" it
.Continue to do routine washing on car every couple of weeks

Basically my concern is that I might have stripped away some of the clearcoat and im afraid that the sun will start causing the remaining clearcoat to peel.

The car washing schedule is:
>@ end of every week give a simple rinse & let dry (unless stuff like bird poop got on the paint then handle that quickly)
>End of every month do a coating of car wax

>A is for autism
>that whole post

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Where does this go mounted in my Citroën BX? It's something to do with front suspension.

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I suspect it goes here but no idea

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how can i tell the difference between condensation on startup/while revving due to a car sitting out in the cold vs. smoke that is signifying some sort of issue

How long should it take to sell a car on craigslist? It's a piece of shit, very common vehicle, so I already knocked the price down significantly but still no takers. I need it gone by the end of the month. Should I just keep dropping the price every few days until someone buys the fucking thing? Is craigslist just a shitty site for it? USA.

CL is ok, seems like apps like letgo are better tho IME. ill ask about a car within hours of it being posted and its either gone, or the seller replies but it gets sold before i can get there. try letgo, offerup, and 5 miles, as well as CL

I'm buying a car to replace my current piece of shit. Right now I'm looking at the 2013-2015 Civic Si and my budget is $15k

Would it be better to buy an older 2013 model for $10k, and use the remaining $5k on modding and replacing older parts on the car, or buy a 2015 model for $15k.

is he /ourguy/

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since when did japan decide to mark their years in such a fucky way
I had to read a goddamn wikipedia article just to find out that H23 means 2012

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Hi guys,

So I bought meself a 4x4 tractor and it did come with winter tires, but no tires for the fine weather.
What tires do I buy? Regular tires? All Terain tires? I might do some occasional off-road, but nothing spectacular.

Also, can you guys recommend a brand? So far, on my B6 Passat I went with Continental for summer tires and CEAT Winter / Pirreli for winter tires.

Much thanks!

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What parts would I need to convert my CB7 Accord (93') to disk brakes from drums? I've seen people do it with Acura and odyssey parts, but is there an actual guide specifically on this?

Is it a good idea to turbo/supercharge a BRZ or Miata? For 5-6k would it be better to just put that money towards a better car?

I bought a really nice NA a few weeks ago, but god damn it came with some awful green wheels
the car itself is black, what's a good color to paint them, I was thinking dark bronze or something

Brake Disks
Brake Pads
Brake Callipers
Some possible computer coding. For VW you need to do some VCDS programming when you change the rear brakes. If you got an older car you may not have to do any programming.

Also, dont be a fag and just go buy ATE brakes. Best brakes for regular use.

Remove and sell the old three obviously
Why would you run 2 different tread patterns on your car?

So I waited a week for my '89 Jeep Cherokee Vent Window Latch to come in and it turns out it doesn't fit, it was the closest one I could find on Amazon, Ebay and any other websites, am I stuck scrounging around scrapyards at this point?
amazon.com/Dorman-76999-HELP-Window-Latch/dp/B000CSZIXY was the one I bought for reference

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got a pontiac grand prix 08
heat is not working, hose going in is hot, hose going out is not
the car is also losing coolant, after ~50 miles it's near empty on coolant
I add more in and nothing comes from the air bleed valve, it never gets pressurized
I also hear a gulping sound coming from the area around the heater core
but I read if the heater core were leaking there will be coolant inside the cabin and foggy windows which I don't have
pls help

Thank you!

Sounds like the heater core is fucked
Or maybe a hose leading to it

what's weird is I let mechanic look at it a month ago and he said it had something to do with the timing cover or head gasket, but I've never seen any symptoms of those

Head gasket usually means u get oil leaked on ur engine block. Also u lose alot of coolant, without any visible leakage. Like the whole recipient is emptied of coolant.
Also, if you find foam/bubbles in radiator and overflow compartment, its the head gasket.

But yeah, usually losing lots of coolant with no sign of leakage is a sign of a head gasket needing replaced. Also, if you find coolant in the oil compartment, its 100% the head gasket.

My car also leaks coolant, but that happens only in winter and its like 200 ml for the whole winter. I just have a bottle in the trunk at all times. In fact, being a VW owner, I always have in the trunk coolant, distilled water, engine oil and a spare set of lightbulbs because fuck you battery.

Left brake light is out, should I replace left and right lights, or just the left?

Only the right

Find a Chad.