/CCG/ Classic Car General

/CCG/ Classic Car General

Rat Infestation edition

NAMEFAG Updates:

>79 SC Camaro guy gets emissions advice from volkswagen
>Lm7bird is locked in his car
>coastie has a secret admirer
>drac is still decontaminating the plymouth
>luxury nippon needs a carb
>impalanon returns and has his eye on a car
>moparts loses sleep over a Studebaker

Incoming pasta:

>Cars are considered """classic""" at 25 years old, but a vehicle really needs that certain something to be classic and, no, your shitbox 1993 Honda Miata is not a classic.

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age or rarity.

>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses, don't get butthurt.

>Any and all classics welcome regardless of nationality.

>Performance > Cosmetics

>Metal > Plastic

>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.

>It's perfectly fine to use RTV. Ignore the haters.

>If you see rust there is probably more.

>rust and bodywork are by far the most difficult thing to repair.

>Electrical work is second most difficult.

>The hardest part of an engine swap is getting the wiring sorted out.

>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay somebody to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or greater of the work or you will go broke.

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience under your belt. If all the salty old hands agree, it's probably true.

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Other urls found in this thread:

gulfport.craigslist.org/cto/d/1949-packard/6532918007.html
bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/6-corvairs-all-for-1000/6532641862.html
bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/1981-pontiac-trans-am/6533562343.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Got the parts to fix my exhaust 2 weeks ago...
Didnt Put them in yet... I will be missing my sound holes

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Hey guys. I think i figured out a nody to hunt for one of my extra engines.
A malaise era apollo/skylark
>ive always wanted a 70-72 chevelle.
>ive always loved Novas of all years.
>its literally a fucking chevelle grafted onto a 4th gen nova.

Also, why do all of my favorite malaise cars look like the ilthe incestual product of gm cousin-fucking?

So far for my extra 3 engines ill have my body goals are:
>75-79 skylark/apollo
>71-77 Vega
>73-77 malibu
>73-77 el camino

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Wow i type like a mongoloid.
Anyway. Im going to have a shitty sbc made out of malaise era internals and tbi top end so itll run like dog ass but itll run until the sun explodes.
>i want to put it in a camino
>i just want another ute to drag my engines and motorcycle around in reliably

I got my 280z running and driving last night. The triple Webbers scream

Blurry but heres a picture of one of those bastards in my firebird

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Pics please

Hey, look what I found.
gulfport.craigslist.org/cto/d/1949-packard/6532918007.html

Seems like a great deal if it runs

rat poison my dude, sure enough you'll still have to find the fuckers, but at least they're easy(er) targets

Just to clarify, not something I want. Just thought it was cool since drac(?) has the rust version

I taped over every hole and stuffed steel wool in every crevice. The 2 in there went into the traps. Its been clean ever since i found that hole under the passenger fender. pic very related

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So here’s a thing.
I’ve been out of coolant for a while and haven’t had the chance to buy any, so I haven’t been driving my Falcon.

I finally got some coolant today and when to start her so I could properly fill her. She wouldn’t start, so I thought “hey, it’s happened a thousand times it’s probably just the battery”, so I jumped her. No bueno. Okay let’s try again. No dice. Okay. What’s next? I swapped the starter with one off of my torino (I swapped the mounting plate but otherwise it’s the same), the only good part that piece of shit had. So I get it in and think “well, this out to work”. Still nothing but clicks. Okay. What about the solenoid? I swapped it. Does that change anything? It clicks loser now, and occasionally does it multiple times. How about the battery? I cleaned the battery (yes, inside the connections and on the sides of the post as well.

So.
What else could be fucked?
Should I start pulling apart plugs and manually cycling the engine to make sure she’s no hydro’d?

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I should also say that i’ve Tried multiple combos of wired that i’ve Scrubbed the terminals on.

And aside from these things bing doesn’t have shit.

NOICE

A friend of mine has a carbed intake and a set of roundtop SU’s for sale and I’m highly considering swapping my 280ZX to carbs

Do it mang, it's more fun and makes similar power. I have twin SUs on my 240z, they're super simple

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So I’m gonna go ahead and completely redo the timing on my L28E since I’m pretty sure the chain tensioner isn’t gonna cooperate. Halfway done with pulling everything off to pull the timing cover when one of the water pump bolts, the one at the 6 o clock position, decided to shear off just at the threading. Now I have to pay someone to drill it out or replace the cover entirely

The japs call the Z’s the “fairlady” but this lady is being a tough old bitch

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Treat her right and she'll treat you fair.

The previous owners didn’t treat her right, ran her on straight water o stead of ponying up 15 bucks for a jug of antifreeze, and then they let her sit for 5 or 6 years. I’ve gone through a case of PB Blaster, 2 cases of brake cleaner and two cans of butane and I’m still breaking off bolts. That’s what happens when you let tweakers have cars

Hang them for the world to see

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Beutiful but i have problems tuning one carb

Use an impact drill for rusty bolts. I havent broke one yet

Alright guys I'm back with some news,
Found my vacuum leak. I crallwed under the car and started tracking down lines and lo and behold the fuel tank vapor line was literally split in half like a microwaved hot dog. That eliminates half my smog problems and only leaves hydrocarbons.

Unfortunately my alternator is no longer under warranty (bought it under a commercial account that I don't have connections to anymore) so I ordered a twenty dollar voltage regulator to rebuild it. Haven't tested it but I'm pretty sure it's bad since it decided to blow out my light bulbs. Also got a new quadrajet mounting gasket because I re used my last one which is probably not good to go and maybe contributing to my engine running dirty. New crankshaft pulley and new alternator mount to get all the angles good for max atomization and new plugs with the right gap and reach and with dialectic grease. Gonna test my fuel pump pressure too just to double check and then check manifold vacuum (and boost)

Expect me to post my vacuum gauge readings as well as pictures of my plugs for feedback. Pic related all my new toys.

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Forget to mention, the cheapie dial back timing light is to check and set my timing. My good innova one with a built in tacho just stopped flashing the other day it was the weirdest thing. The tech kept receiving signal but the light just quit flashing

I’m thinking this will be a good investment

I got a battery powered impact and i dont know how i lived without it. Rusy bolts dont just sheer off and tough exhaust bolts come off without a 4 ft long breaker bar, also it just saves a ton of time. I cannot reccomend one enough

Wimp

Drilling out rusted studs gets old quick

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Update on the door. The lock works great when i lean against the door but it wont unlock when theres no pressure on it

IATB.

How old is the battery?

This is only my second carbeurated vehicle and I haven't found any trouble with it. Way easier than fuel injected rotaries like I'm used to lmao

Also. Passeger door lock works after i lubed it up

Never do this.
They will eat it, crawl back into some inaccessible crevice, and then die.
You will then get to spend hours trying to find out where the smell of rotting mouse is coming from.
Always use traps of some sort instead.

it's probably just full of dried grease and dirt. Pull it out and apart, if you can, clean it off with some diesel and a brush, and throw it back together with something like Lubriplate.
Y'know, not super-sticky axle grease.

I thought It was a brand new rayovac when I bought it (the car) in August last year.
I’m currently digging through my cupboards for cash stashes to buy a new one actually.

Everything’s consistent with the battery being shot.

I haven’t found a refurb sticker yet but i’m Suspicious that I misjudged it as “new”

Im probably just going to leave it for now. I don't feel like tearing the lock apart if it kinda works

Got my new thermal vacuum switches and realized they don't swivel in their sockets.

The old ones did

I've been running an engine with EGR and EFE running AT ALL TIMES

also my fuel pump is stained and most likely leaking so that's getting replaced. That should significantly improve things

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Would you at the very least hose it down with some graphite lock tumbler juice? It won't be quite the same as doing a full clean/lube, but it'll help a lot.

Trying to put in the damn dash tonight. It's trying my patience

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Did nobody link the fresh bread? What happened? I didn't see anything, then I go make a new thread right before the old one dies, now I find out this one was made five hours prior to mine.

Guys this is fucking it. Tomorrow night I'm doing my final fucking install. A fucking month worth of gear work. Fuck.

>not wanting to live with the mystery of not knowing whether or not theres a rat skeleton (or many) somewhere in your car

Any Ford guys in /ccg/ that could offer a guy advice on a 408 swapped Foxbody?

z's are my guilty pleasure

They are my joy and my misery. But they are... fair *badum tissss*

I used live traps. I didnt want them stinking up my already fowl car

>fowl car
you got a chicken problem too?

I know this is a joke but one of my friends left his truck's doors open for some reason and his chickens shit all over it.

Did you try turning it over by hand? Is your low coolant level because it's just leaking into the cylinders and locked the engine? It would have to be a pretty bad leak though.

>corvair graveyard
bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/6-corvairs-all-for-1000/6532641862.html

It's an SS, right? Motor/trans? I'm pretty interested, would have to drive it back to Texas.

Holy shit, I was in the wrong new thread.

True SS. 355 sbc, flat top pistons, all the chrome shit you could ever want. 750cfm carb, which is a little big. 4 speed Saginaw from a 67 Camaro.

Poor corvairs. They are nifty cars. I kinda want one for the keks

I don’t know what I was thinking. It isn’t hydro’d. I’m just a retard man.

Also, it’s low because I haven’t got a coolant return tank.
It just evaporates off when i’m Driving and it gets too hot. I have to top it off every month or so (frankly I should probably give in and get a return tank.)

Saw that awhile ago, I'm planning on checking it out
They are some of the best cars ever made

O'Reillys has generic overflow tanks for about $15. They mount easily and work well. That's what my bronco has.

Where you located? Somewhere northwest, right?
I could be tempted into selling my Furys and coming to grab that from you. You might have to hold it for a while though. Post more pics in the meanwhile

I didn't see the link, I was refreshing the other threads for hours lol

These gauges are my fetish

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Hey you bastards! Hope you're having a good night

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>want to build 351W
>go to car part store for unrelated reason
>get to talking with the owner
>he has one
>some kid was building it for a Torino, had to sell it
>sounds like it's a mostly complete long block and likely other accessories
>no idea on the specs of anything other than most of it won't be stock
>price not discussed
>first engine build so I barely know what I'm doing
Wat do?

Kill me

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The 351 Windsor is a common engine build. I think it will be a good first build. It wont be babys first SBC 350 easy but it will be well documented if you ever have a question

>college
Kek just destroy your body in the Marine Corps like me dude fuck the educational jew

>been a factory worker for 7 years
>machinist for 3 out of 7 years
>sick of factory work and working in dirty factories
>thinking about computer work
>computer repair isn't a thing anymore with smart phones
>all other tech work requires college degree in computer science and cock sucking
>working conditions, pay and benefits are worse then what i'm already doing
>don't want to go back to school
Lifes a bitch, thinking about becoming a assistant/apprentice welder just to learn to weld even if its an even dirtier job.

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Goddamn it.
I'm in central california and can't find a hood for my corvair to save my ass.

Thought you guys might like this carburetor I'm putting on the slant six in my truck. I already had a Carter BBD off a 318 to put on, but I found this fucking massive large bore BBD that was only used on 383s. I say massive, it's rated at 365 cfm. But that's a lot for a 2v carb. Most of the small block/super six BBDs were rated at 285, and the one barrel the truck came with is rated at 200.

The pic is off the internet, the one I got is nasty and corroded, but it was $22 and free shipping. Got a rebuild kit and an adapter plate already for the 2v intake.

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It's just huge for a two barrel. The barrels are 1.5" diameter. Almost as much flow as a 390 4 barrel.

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Only 1 more week and i should have her back

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Can't wait to install this thing. Just looks awesome. Well, gnite ccg

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Good to know.
I’ve just been lazy about it because i’ve Been doing nothing but work and school essentially since I got it.

I’ve barely had time for a single oil change. I really need to redo the brakes but I haven’t had the time OR the cash, and with a new battery I most definitely won’t have the cash.

Good morgon honorable classicfags
What do you think about my car? It's my grandfather's old car and I'm driving it as some kind of long gone joke

Forgot pic lel

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A front shot would be better, cunt.

Maine. I'll post more pictures later today. Or better yet, improbably just do up a Craigslist ad.

Don't forget to know what you got

Doesn't seem.hard, but I'd have a hard time writing with such a prompt. What school do you go to/what major?

So I'm reconsidering the monte only because I found a complete M22 near me, or there is a shop with excess th350s to throw in. Do you think it would be worth the efforts just to throw an automatic back in or something? I'd like the M22, but the guy hasnt gotten back to me on a price, where as the th350s are selling for like 3-500 with bell housing and converter.

Here you go fitta

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What year?
Have you checked Clark's?

NVM on the M22. Guy wanted WAAAAY too much

Don't want to lose this spicy pasta:
>Drac discovers that junkyard finds live up to their name.
>79sccamaroguy contemplates committing a felony
>moparts needs xanax because studebaker
>coastie tries to buy all of craigslist
>spoonfeedme purchases another man's rear end
>matte79ta has trans issues
>cutlass decides cars>eating
>impalanon returns from the dead
>akrycevin basically does ccg for a living
>luxurynippon still decides that one rust bucket isn't enough

God dam I wish I had that simplicity rather than an m4mc emissions Rochester quadrajet with 37 ports and linkages

Hey, 79SC bro, since you're our residental emissions guy, any idea what this guy is talking about? I remember when I contacted this guy months back, he said it was on the front of the motor.
bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/1981-pontiac-trans-am/6533562343.html

Smog pipe huh? I tried looking up the emissions label to look at the diagram and it looks like there's a diverter valve right on the front which is usually part of a smog pump/AIR injection system. Maybe he's talking about the stalk on the smog pump that houses the diverter valve, the rubber hose to the header pipes, or the actual header pipes themselves.

Well if that's the case, how important is that? It could be the headers as he said it was part of the exhaust and very loud.

Well basically it's an air compressor (the pump) which pushes air through a diverter valve, up a hose, then through a check valve that prevent back flow and finally into a pipe that kind looks like an injector rail in that it branches into 4 small pipes (one for each cylinder) that flows the cold air down with the exhaust.

Depending on what part is missing it could potentially be bad. If the pipe is missing on the headers themselves then u have an exhaust leak at every cylinder which would explain the noise. If its the hose and the check valve then u have one centralized exahust leak and itll aound like open headers (happened to me) if u don't have to smog it then fuck it just buy a cheap header and throw it on and while your at it rip out whole system

Keep in mind however I don't know how this works with it being a turbo manifold. I checked rock auto and sure enough the system has a smog pump diverter valves and check valves but I couldn't get eyes in the manifold to confirm if it has smog pump piping or not. Mine looks like this notice how there's pipes welded into my headers and a checkvlave to prevent back flow. These were hand made though to cuck the California smog laws. Most oem ones simply thread on with a flare nut wrench

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If it's been up for that long then something is wrong with it, those 81 turbo trans ams are an enigma to me and most people since the turbo setup was made before they really knew what the fuck they were doing.

anyway, I looked through the service manual and found this so it might be what they're referring to.

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81 was one of the worst years.
The 301 might be the worst Pontiac engine ever made.

>manage to get a computer degree
>forget to get the cock sucking and nepotism degree along with it
>been a factory worker since graduation because Its the best job I can find
think about becoming an electrician or some shit.
those guys make bank.

got the rest of my Pontiac 400 taken apart except for 2 pistons that are rusted to the walls. filled one up with atf and i'm letting that sit, anybody had to deal with this before?

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1-800-Marines

I sort of regret not joining the military right out of highschool like all my friends did.
I feel like I missed out of some good shenanigans.

Your body thanks you for not. Even the coast guard is hard on your body.

Alright guys I got a bit of a pressing question: my new alternator bracket bolts into my intake manifold instead of my water outlet. Am I cool to remove the frontmost most bolt on an intake manifold and then put it right back? Or would I risk breaking the gasket seals

Anyone ever look at lemons races?
>find a $500 pos classic car
>use our expertise of carburetors and simplicity of older cars
>add some autism
I think a /CCG/ race team would be badass!

you should be good, I've done it before to put a bracket on for my throttle return spring, just make sure to torque it back. But if you're worried about it drain the block a bit.