Drop your knowledge of foxbodys and how to squeeze every last drop of power and handling

This guy has the right idea, alternative idea

>4.10 gears
>TKO500
>boxed stock lower control arms
>adjustable upper control arms
>explorer intake
>1.7 ratio rockers
>nitrous plate with 125-200 shot

Enjoy until you get too greedy with timing and burn it down

Coyote swap can be done for relatively cheap anymore, since the engine is 7 years old now.

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Stage 2 weight reduction

>the coyote is garbage

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ls makes more power to weight and is much more common. stay mad

Hi there!

You seem to have made a bit of a mistake in your post. Luckily, the users of Veeky Forums are always willing to help you clear this problem right up! You appear to have used a tripcode when posting, but your identity has nothing at all to do with the conversation! Whoops! You should always remember to stop using your tripcode when the thread it was used for is gone, unless another one is started! Posting with a tripcode when it isn't necessary is poor form. You should always try to post anonymously, unless your identity is absolutely vital to the post that you're making!

Now, there's no need to thank me - I'm just doing my bit to help you get used to the anonymous image-board culture!

LS can't run 5 second quarters
Modular can
stay BTFO

Wheres the 9 second, 100% stock (sealed engine) LS3 powered cars?

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nice delusion

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None of you benchracers will ever drive a 5 second car, let alone build and own one

>gets BTFO
>starts with the personal attacks

classic GM cuck move

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>ran out of arguments
>resorts to ad hominems
as expected

Yeah, well an LS will just plain never be a 5 second motor.

It’s also the most unimaginative engine swap ever made. You could probably do a more interesting engine swap by replacing an LS motor in a car with the stock one.

I now have the front coilovers 325lb spring with hd koni struts and I am extremely impressed with how the car handles now. Besides the fact I swapped from upr 14" 100lb spring/coilovers. Also have tubular upr kmember and control arms. Have to do coilovers in the rear next and will probably go with MM. Rear end is 8.8 from a turbocoupe with 3.73, basically the same set up as the 93 cobra.

I'm not too concerned on making power right now so your cucked Chevy ma ls is currently irrelevant, I do appreciate the banter though. Mainly focused on handling. My car looks like the previous dip shit did a diy sfc with like 3/4 x 2.5 box tubing. Looks like 1/8" wall. Is it worth it to do custom sfc with an obviously heavier gauge steel? Or am I better off just dishing the 200 bucks for mm full lengths?

That's all I feel like typing for now

They look like shit. Get a trans am

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not so much explorer intake a bit old school heres a better list
>9 inch upgrade with detroit locker 4.10 good
>tranny suggestion is good
>cam w tight lsa
>moar compression 10.5:1
>girdle
>arp everything
>1.7 rollers r good
> edelbrock performer rpm or trickflow intake
>edelbrock throttle body
> bigger injectors
> AFR heads or edelbrock or trickflow something around 175-195
>forged crank, rest is already factory forged pre '92
>moroso pan
>long tube headers no cats run true duals no crossover 2.5"
>lower + massive swaybars

GM fangirls should leave

You can literally crack open a catalogue and bolt your way on to 700+ RWHP. You relaly need to be more specific about what your budget and goals are.

Sounds like you are new to foxes, and starting from stock. If you are just looking for a few upgrades that'll make a nice differance you should start out with:

3.73 gears
Headers, H or X pipe and a Catback. Brand doesn't much mater, just listen to sound clips and decide what you like. For me its BBK headers and H-pipe and Flowmaster 40s dumped befpre the axle.
Subframe connectors, they make a HUGE difference to handling and overall feel of the car.
Drop in a K&N panel filter and pull out. the silencer in the fender. Don't waste your money on a cone filter that sucks hot air form the engine bay.

From there you'll have a nice base to work with, and you can decide on your budget and how far you want to go and how healthy your stock engine is.

Building a nice stroker or windsor stroker when the time comes is my advice. That and a good matched set of heads and intake and a custom cam, and you have one hell of a car.

Boost is also an option, as it nitrous.

If you want to handle Maximum motor sports is definitely the best you can get.

Enjoy!

And a mullet to match

I'd argue that what Griggs has to offer would be better for absolute handling, but you'd have to open up your bank account rather wide

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Keep throwing money at it until it's not complete shit. They get decent once you get in the 10k USD range. Shame it will still look awful while being worse than a F-body or import.

This is one of the few time I'm ok with a LS swap, those 4.9s are terrible engines.

My fox was the first car I ever bought, in high school. 26 now so I've had the car almost 10 years, fixed everything as it broke or went, tfi module, cleaned salt and pepper shakers, all that be, I'll give a quick list of what I have now, my reason for asking is because I started autocrossing it last year so I'm trying to max out the performance for that. I'm just not really looking to hear torque arm ,watts link or any of the obvious, just picking brains for hidden tricks, everybody seems to be obsessed with power though

Motor is mostly stock
Bbk maf
Typhoon upper and lower
Not much else going on in there
Front
Upr tubular kmember and control arms
MM coilovers koni hd struts
Stock ponys with 225 50 16 r888
Eibach sway bar
Billet upr caster camber plates
Rear
8.8 turbocoupe rear
Stock disc brake
3.73 gears
eibach lowering springs the kid before me put in
tubular NonAdj control arms
Quads removed
Some shitty diy subframe connectors

Oh and I wrecked the car about 6 years ago and we only pullrd it on the frame machine quick, small wrinkle in the aoron on passenger side and must be somewhere in the frame, so the front end is tricky to align and to adjust camber so the most I could get is about negative 1 degree and i just maxed out the caster.

>absolutely ignoring handling when OP asked for it
>Mustang driver """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""education""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""

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He should just get a 363 dart block. Shits all over the 351 while being same size as 289/302

>catalog
>credit card

It becomes whatever you want it to be. From a Chevy guy, the foxbodies late 80ies to early 90ies are the build car of choice for almost any taste...

It's a shame they have been experiencing a stead appreciation in acquisition cost for the last couple of years. That sexy speedhunters build is only going to make it worse

Ive had mine for about 4 years. its was a complete basket case when i got it. Didnt run well, tranny was shot, rear end on its way out, shoddy wiring etc.
Thousands and thousands of dollars later its finally pretty quick and also realiable; so my
advice would to be concerned with finding a good car first and foremost so you dont have to deal a ton of bullshit like i did

Op here again, had car 10 years, fixed everything that breaks annually, car is very reliable and transitioning from street. Not trying to go fast in a straight line.

You forgot wide as fuck 200TW tires

A F-Body is easier to make handle better but I can't get over how much wheels and tires are for American Muscle Cars. It cancels out whatever you save in parts/aftermarket costs. You're looking at $1000-1500 whenever you need tires every year.

>315/30/18 Nitto NT01s - $1100/set
>315/30/18 BFG Rivals-S - $1500/set
>275/40/18 Hankook RS4s - $900/set

In comparison for a smaller import (S2000) -
>255/40/17 Hankook RS4s - $600/set
>225/45/17 Hankook RS4s - $500/set

It matters if he's giving advice related to his cars faggot.

>straight line speed
>relevant

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>302w
>750+ rwhp

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youtu.be/3r-CEhnRdsQ

There's videos of this car strapped to the dyno (on facebook)

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>handling.
First move is to stiffen the chassis as much as possible.

Next, the Fox suspension is absolutely fucked from a handling standpoint so you'll need to make serious changes.

First thing to understand is the car is rear grip limited in stock configuration. The rear suspension is missing a fifth link to begin with so it'll never feel as connected as it should and would require a panhard bar to get the rear axle located properly. Problem is that conflicts with the non-parallel, unequal length control arm configuration and actually makes the rear suspension bind earlier than designed (as does lowering which also fucks the instant and roll centers). You can either go to a torque arm set-up, or the Steeda 5 link which was designed by the engineer that did the Fox suspension to fix the rear suspension. It basically adds a panhard but also adds lengthened upper arms that are parallel to the lowers so the control arms are not also try to center the rear axle. Either way you significantly improve compliance, and therefore grip, over the factory design while also improving predictability . Rear coil overs help suspension tuning in that roll and instant centers are dependent on chassis height unless you go and start moving mounting points to achieve that. Also allows you to get the corner weights in the ball park.

con't

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con't

Now that you've got more grip in the rear than you can use the car will plow like a pig since it'll have more grip in the rear than the front.

Front struts are too vertical and you can get a little bit of improved caster and camber with caster/camber plates. Even then you won't be able to get anywhere near what modern cars have from the factory but hey, it's something.

Lower control arms are too short so you'll end up with a K-member and arms. Drag K's are built too light for track duty though. Longer arms improve roll center heights to be more in line with what the rear suspension does so that the whole car doesn't have as poor a roll inclination as it would have normally.

The steering rack is too low and adds significant bump-steer because of it so you'll want a bump-steer kit which lowers the tie-rod attachment point to the knuckle and straightens out the tie rod putting it more in the middle of it's travel range. While we're on the subject of knuckles, the Fox front suspension has negative Ackerman which means the inner wheel on a turn actually turns out less than the outer wheel turns in so they actually kinda fight each other. 96-up knuckles have some Ackerman angle built in so adding those would be a nice touch.

But even after all that you still won't have enough front grip so the only thing left is tires. Wide ones. Spaced as far out as you dare since an increased front track adds grip too. Go look at the Foxes running in various handling oriented competitions and you'll see that a lot have tires that are halfway outside of where the factory fender line would have been under those flares.

>fitting those tires into a fox

Anything is possible

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Fox bodies make have SEX

Muh

At least show a tasteful one

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Why would anyone want to buy the most cucked looking stang? Even SN95s look more appealing visually.

why is everyone spazzing about the coyote running a 5 something quarter?
>SEE, ONLY THE VALVES ARE STOCK AND IT CAN RUN A 5!!
meanwhile hemis are still the go-to for real drag racing

Literally a stock production block casting, keep sperging tho

It wasn't a Coyote, it's a 4.6. People have also gotten 5.4s into the 5s.

>handling
Your in the wrong place soyboy

>MMR billet block
>stock
nope. I mean it's neat that they pulled this off with stock heads, but that and stock valves do not make a stock coyote. That motor alone was easily worth the sticker price of a 2018 cumstang itself.

Are they too wide for Foxes? I used the Hankook RS4 for most examples as it’s one of the stickiest and cheapest longest lasting street tires on the market. RE71Rs, Dunlop Direzzas, and BFG Rivals are a little stickier but more expensive. Talking about 200TW Summer Tires you’d run if you took a car autocrossing or to a HPDE

I know 4th Gen FBodys have 275/40/17 17x9s all around from the factory. It’s just crazy how much more exponentially expensive tires get from 255 to 275 and higher. Almost 2x and 3x. And 205-225s like a Miata/Civic/MR2 run are closer to $4-500 a set.

The Accufab Mustang in uses a stock production 4.6 block and runs a 5s quarter
No LS has done that

except mihovetz uses a factory tekzid 4.6 cast

there isn't a single factory cast hemi that can run 5's in a doorslammer car

>a stock aluminum Cobra block; Ford GT Four Valve cylinder heads, and Twin Precision turbochargers

I thought were were talking about this fastest modular

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The Accufab Mustang ran 5.88 with a stock 4.6 Cobra block. MMR ran a 5.80 but with a billet block.

What's the fastest chebby, then? I was seeing videos of 4th gens hitting low 6s and that was years ago

6.7 or some shit like that

even the older 350 sbc has ran the quarter faster than the fastest LS

the fuck

To add to this
>inb4 people bringing up LSX cars
LSX =/= production LS and neither are the iron block truck motors

>LSX =/= production LS
Isn't it just a cast iron LS7?

surprise surprise the LS is a meme engine

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Still not a production LS

I get that it's not sold for street applications but isn't it literally an LS7 with different materials?

The silver one looks like it has the AutoZone theme on it.

One autist spamming shit. Filter the image and move on.

no, the LSX is not an LS7 made out of iron

t. GM cuckold
Modular > Literal Shit, stay mad

275s are gonna rub a bit in the front, and you're not fitting anything with a 3 in the first digit in the back IIRC.

If you want to count Proline Chevy big block/Hemi hybrid full racing engines then I've seen 5.4s as the fastest. Just about all the fast Chevy guys use Proline Hemis.

Fastest stock bottom end 7.16
Fastest stock block I've seen is a 6.7
Fastest I know of was a 6.11 with a World block

>half a second faster with 4x the # of valves
I'm gonna laff when that 63' impala breaks into the 5s

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all i know is they're slower than the corvette by a huge margin

matt farah had to spend $50k on his foxboy to make it handle ok

Srsly? I knew the LS was shit, but THAT shit??
Also my local drag strip had a street car shootout.
Race came down to 94 Mustang w/5.3 LS single turbo VS 03 Cobra 4.6 4v with Twin Turbos
Cobra smoked the LS car, 4.90 to 5.02 1/8th mile
f
***b
ook.com/brainerddrag/videos/2076160432412068/ Race @6:00

why was the final race between a single turbo car and a twin turbo car?

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The guy probably ripped that 5.3 out of a truck for $500. I bet the LS guy had a lot less money into the motor.

It was a "whose fastest" race user. Everyone brought a car, had to drive it 40 miles out and back with only refueling allowed. Then immediately start racing. All that was left were these two. Besides the turbo difference, that LS got spanked by an engine which is essentially two hondas strapped together

>GM fangirls are poor
As expected desu

the 4.6 cobra had the two turbos and ported heads.
The LS was cammed, ported, polished, roller rockers, and a pretty large single turbo.

They most definitely both spent over 10k on each car.

>It was a "whose fastest" race user.
Gee, bill, how come your mom let you have TWO turbos?

They are both pretty well known racers around the area. LS guy most definitely could have used a second turbo, but decided not to, as his build is different. See

I don't think anyone put money down on the LS setup to win, is my point.

this is almost in the same tier as
>if I turbo my 6 cylinder it'll bully your v8

I don’t have a horse in this race but you’re looking pretty pathetic right about now. Just admit you were wrong or simply stop posting, you’re digging yourself a deeper hole with each post.

Not true, quite a few put down quite a few hundred on LS man cuz "muh big block chevy power" and "its just a 4.6"
The LS meme needs to be retired is my point. It is no longer, the fastest, and quickly becoming more expensive becuase it has turned into the meme engine.

also no, it is not. In fact a tuned and "slightly" modded R35 was present, lost to a coyote swapped Ford LTD

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Stop replying to him dude, it's been years of this crap. Have you not noticed?

but was the GTR boosted?

>all this GM cuck mental gymnastics

CAN'T RUN 5'S
A
N
'
T

R
U
N

5
'
S

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does it matter, it lost to a stock coyote in an old stock wagon that weighs more?
The GTR is supposed to be a bridge between supercar and high end sports car. It SHOULD have won without boost, but lost. I don't believe boost would have made a difference and unevened its playing field. A large single turbo VS two smaller twin turbos is a fairly even field. While a Single turbo vs an N/A car has a very large gap.

Shouldn't you be happy it lost to LS cars?

>GM cucks trying to steer this conversation into GTRs

LMAO

OBSESSED

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Clap Clap you beat a $500 junkyard motor with a $10k modular the size of a big block.

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>this cuck appears again
rage more, Ford > GM, that isn't an LS block autist

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I like how Veeky Forums is constantly on about "muh handling" but when asked a question that includes handling all they can talk about is power.

I was always under the impression that GTRs weren't that in a NA config

Most people giving OP advice before the shitter turned up mentioned Maximum Motorsports or other suspension companies, were you paying attention?

3rd gens are only good aesthetics

The best Fox body is called the SN95.
9/10 handling upgrades for a Fox will come from an SN95. Just get an SN95 to start.

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Why would you want a motor that only lasts 5 seconds