Found a 2008 Mazdaspeed3 for $5k at 140k miles

Found a 2008 Mazdaspeed3 for $5k at 140k miles.

What are the odds this bitch will blow up in the next year if i were to buy it?

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Define blow up.

Major repairs such as the engine, turbo, shit that costs more than a couple hundred bucks to do. From my research I know some shit has to be done around this mileage, such as motor mounts but that's no big deal.

Depends if it was taken care of or not, the motors are pretty decent. Motors mounts are probably fucked, egr system is probably gross also. I've got a speed6 (same motor) with 150k and it's been fine.

Has the turbo given you any trouble?

This would be my first turbocharged car

man i had a speed6 and that engine blew at 70k

Have you been in a Mazda 3 before? Thing is fucking tiny. I'm 5'8" and my knees are on the damn glovebox.

Hmm not yet. Will try to soon. I'm 5'11" so I hope I fit in the car I've been wanting for 10 god damn years.

My girlfriend is 4'10" so her knees definitely will not hit the glovebox.

Holy shit you're midgets. That's cool imo, but surprising.

Turbos in these seize. Best to replace with a bnr s3 since its bolt on. Egr delete and gwt some sea foam to clean out head since its direct injected and the gas doesn't clean the area

you realise you can push the seat back, right?

:( I don't feel short at 5'11". She is short af, though. It's great.

Thank you. That's been useful information.

>considering buying a fail wheel drive cuckbox

How fucking fat are you? I am 6'2 and about 190lbs and never had an issue in my mates one.

Sea foam won’t actually help at all with these cars. They’re extremely reliable when taken care of though, i own a speed3 with 120k and have had very little problems. I would say ama, but I’m at work and probably won’t respond, maybe I’ll try and check in later. Buy it, these cars are a fuckin blast

>Has the turbo given you any trouble?

nope

this I'm 6"4 I have more room in mazda3's then civics. Seat goes all the way back in those cars.

At 5'11" you're an inch over the white man average not including fucking freaks like dutch, flemmings or scandis.

How does gen 1 compare to gen 2? Aside from look what are the major differences? Is one better than the other?

gen 2 is a fixed everything wrong with the gen 1, i'd aim for a gen2 if you can. gen 3 is a huuuuuuuuuuuuge upgrade even if they are N/A. Gen 4 will be great when they bring out the 2.5 turbo from the cx9

Engine mounts are still defective, at least on the first year of gen 2s (2010). replacing my passenger-side one (at 83k miles) later this week. Also had MAF and both O2 sensors fail between 75k miles and now.

speed 3, btw

yea no shit lol. Rear mount is garbage, passenger is shit, trans one is the only half decent one but mine tore so i replaced it with OEM because no one makes a efocus tier one for the passenger/trans anymore.

I only have a 2.5 but wanted a speed3. ill probably sell it and buy a speed3 when they are cheap or swap in a 2.5 turbo from a cx9.

Anybody have any issues with the regular gen 1 3?

Bump

Yes, most of those were fixed in the gen 2's but they are fixable, Even some mistakes being made again on the gen 2 (aka motor mounts)

Mounts and rust are usually a thing with the gen 1 but not on gen 2. so aim for a gen 2 if you want a mazda.

I drive an 04 Gen 1 MZ3, (no turbo). I have over 200,000 on it, and the only thing I've done to it maintenance wise is just normal shit that wears out on any car of that age.

Brakes all around
>went with OEM, because I got 150k out of my original set, and found new OEM pads for $130, all four corners

Passenger side motor mount
>$50 on Rockauto and takes 5 minutes to change after the car is in the air. Convenient time is during an oil change

rear motor mount
>ditto as above, went with an AWR 70 durometer. Stiffened up my shifts big time, but did a bit of NVH. For me, the added noise was actually quite pleasant. YMMV

New shocks/struts
>Went with KYB Excel G's. Ride and handle exactly the same as new OEM's, but cost 1/3rd

rear trailing arm bushings
>You need a press to get them in and out. Just pull the arms, take them to your local mechanic, he'll charge you $40.

Rear wheel bearings
>easy as hell

Front wheel bearings
>press

front LCA's
>fucking EASY, except passenger side. To get the front bolt out, just jack the engine up 2-3" by removing the bolts from the passenger side motor mount, then it slides right out

outer tie rod ends (inners were fine)

Spin on oil filter conversion
>guides all over the 'net, cost me $20 for an adapter off of a Ford Fusion

Fuck yeah, thanks for this.
+1
Like

I already have an '08 3 with the 2.0L, just under 60k km on her. Was just wondering if there was anything I'd have to look into in the future. Thanks friend and sorry about highjacking the thread

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motor mounts if you haven't done them already. but there are good mods you should do as well, solid shifter bushings (basically washers), corksport shifter if manual, short shifter, lighter wheels, turbo brakes, list goes on.