/QTDDTOT/

Questions That Don’t Deserve Their Own Thread: The Thread

Starting this party up ‘cause there’s always a need for it

>ask yer questions
>answer other anons’ questions
Simple and Fun(tm)

Attached: 1852B5A1-D894-4769-9B56-B59EA1AB9B27.jpg (500x457, 66K)

Other urls found in this thread:

tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/speedo-error-calculator
fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/d/86-toy-mr2-90k-recent-brakes/6507964986.html
youtube.com/watch?v=aKkRtIp4m1s
auto.bg/pcgi/gallery.cgi?adv=11521466755930532&searchres=wecu2og1
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

after moving from an apartment with a whole driveway and available hose for washing my car to one that has neither, should i get some ceramic coating for cheap to keep it clean easier?

300zx guy back a couple weeks ago i posted about having a problem (with a 300zx wow what a suprise) i bought it knowing it was going to have a problem or two but this apparently is noe punishment for something ive done wrong...

Anyway my car is fine when its cold and in nuetral will rev out 7k but the longer you let it warm up underload thr less of a "redline" you have almost down to like 1.2k rpm when warmed up it just starts sounding and acting funny backfire rough noise no power gauges all work but it doesnt throw any codes

I found alot of gas in my oil so i changed injectors now thinking that was the problem first test drive and it still persists cutting power and backfiring so on so forth

Ive changed spark plugs coil packs injectors now both regulator and dampner fuel management computer
Supposedly the fuel pump was replaced befor i got it and i can hear it turn on

My dad had an idea today that it might not have enough back pressure (it was a perfomance college kids car before the previous owner) they cut the cats and welded on some goofy tractor exhausts or something i planned on replacing the exhausts anyway how viable is this to be the problem?

1990 btw so i dont think it has o2 sensors on the exhausts

BUM TO BUMPER WARRANTY

should i buy a 93 toyota pickup with 170k miles for 3 grand

no, you can find a early 2000's ranger for about that price with less milage, much cheaper and more available parts for it too.

why are you such a faggot?

Can someone explain why there is uneven wear? They're 17s but my car takes 14s, not that the previous owner cared. They look very slightly cambered, but they arent. Is my weight distribution off because the tires are too big or what? Were they inflated too much, causing only the middle to make contact?

Attached: received_1917522468288890.jpg (1080x1920, 180K)

oh i thought the toyotas were more reliable though

when theyre worn on the middle excessiveley it means they were over inflated

if i put bigger wheels/tires on my truck, does my odometer and mph gauge compensate somehow or just become wrong?

what about a 2004 colorado with 168k miles on the body and 95k miles on the engine with no a/c for $2500?

My father has a celica, a sixth gen bought in 1998 in Spain, current location where the car is. I'm trying to convince him to lend it to me or maybe give it to me but i dont want to get ahead and start asking questions about it so is there any web to compare cars based in the visual aspects of it?

havnt looked at prices in a few years but 3k is what i got a 01 ranger for back in 2009 i was more pointing out that you can probably find a much newer truck for the same price

>Oh I have a 6 gen this question should be easy

>What

Usually it just goes wrong but that's what those little signs that show your speed as you pass by them are for

is there some way to adjust them to compensate for the larger tires?

just becomes wrong, you would need to take it in to have that adjusted so it is correct.

>my father's car
>my car
absolutely retarded, you know in this life you have to pay for your things right?

Attached: 1516362057031.jpg (300x291, 11K)

If I really love my car, should I get an Air and Oil Separator? Am N/A atm but planning on supercharging in a year

Why do people talk shit about the Chevy 6.5L diesel v8? What advantages would either the earlier 6.2 diesel or the later 6.6 Duramax have over the 6.5?

Attached: BFB2FE98-3593-49A6-9B85-FBA72FA7D43A.png (696x720, 239K)

My cars suspension feels really shit, im going to look at it eventually. Every time i hit a bump at highway speeds it feels like the whole car gets a bit of air and gets thrown around. Its got a sway bar or w/e across the engine bay, would removing that help with the feeling i described? I feel like removing that rigidity and linkage between the 2 sides would stop the whole car from jerking and just have the side the bump is on jerk, but im not sure

Low self esteem, nihilism and an ironic sense of humor

Best way to remove a stripped and over tightened sump plug?

Probably just shock absorbers, my dude

Maybe there's a way to adjust the ecu on some cars. If you Google for it there's a calculator that will tell you how off it will be. There's probably some option in Torque for this as well

>car refuses to start for a week
>don't fix it because final exams
>finish finals and go to take a look at the car
>weather has gone from 40F to 60F since then
>try to start it just to see what'll happen
>starts perfectly fine
I'm not entirely sure what happened but if someone has an idea, I'm willing to hear it.

Anyone know if common issues with e46 tranny(if any)? My car seems to be making a strange low-pitched whirring noise at idle. Doesn't seem to be from engine so I'm at a loss. (Manual 2005 325xi)

Your spedo will become "inaccurate" but most of the time it's negligeable. You can see the difference @ tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/speedo-error-calculator

This happened on my Camry once it was because the IAC valve was clogged. I think it has something to do with the properties of warm air vs cold air or some shit

Probably moisture related...cracked spark plug line(s), similar with hard lines from battery...

I'd carefully grind the stripped head into a flat edge and remove it with a correct sized open end spanner. Maybe use a file if you aren't confidentband have all day

Thanks man, I’ll give a try. It’s been pissing me off as I’ve just been driving to almost empty on oil before doing the filter change. Can’t imagine it’s good for my car

I'm just guessing, m8.

I'm moving somewhere where smog emissions testing is mandatory.

Which is easier to pass, a sniffer test or an OBD2 port scan test?

I have to do an OBD2 test.

Attached: 2.jpg (1200x1599, 1.06M)

If the head is rounded locking pliers should do the trick. Clamp the sumbitch down on the head and turn. If the threads inside are stripped then cut the head off and drill it out. For the latter, you'll need to re-tap the threads or add an insert to get it to seal up again.

This. But honestly between the depth of the tread on the outside and the fact its bald just means that its probably inflated ok you just waited way too long to change tires.

Obd cuz you can do it yourself if you have a $10-20 scan tool. Worse comes to worse there's always that one guy that will pass anyone for a price

How do you run tires bald like that. Mine just start getting exposed metal on the sides then it's over

Thanks for your input, I'm relatively new to cars.

Does the OBD2 port have access to actual emissions numbers or just things that would throw an error code and show that the engine isn't running optimally?

Some AFM, use temp gauges ,if they're faulty it may not using the correct start up procedure.

>funny backfire rough noise

Burnt valves would be my guess. This is sometimes caused by an exhaust leak near the headers.

>My dad had an idea today that it might not have enough back pressure

Loss of Back pressure has very little impact on performance.

>1990 btw so i dont think it has o2 sensors on the exhausts

If it has port EFI then it has at least one O2 sensor.

My 04 Mazda 3 (177k mi) just had a $2k repair done. I paid 3800 for it a couple years ago and other repairs have definitely gone past that. Is it worth keeping it any longer or should I start looking for something newer in the spring? I'm in the midwest, so rust is worth keeping in mind.

Which of these would be best for a somewhat fun, decently powerful, comfy, and, no more than 7 years old daily sedan?
>2nd gen Mazda 6 GT
>8th/9th gen Accord v6
>G37/Q50
>v6 Charger

Both but some some scanners are only gonna be able to read error codes so if you have a smart phone just get a Bluetooth dongle.

You should have asked before you were $2k down.

As far as I'm aware, obd2 takes reading from your after car o2 sensor. If you cant get your shitbox to pass, you could always install a dummy sensor.

Is ONR jewish tricks? I was at a local meet up and more than half the people there pledged allegiance to ONR. I've been using the two bucket system years, am I wrong or is it the children?

G37

I needed to keep my daily on the road. At least now it'll be running good when I trade it in.

If you had put V8 Challenger in there then that would be a no brainier, but the V6 is shit. G37 all the way.

Why don't companies usually offer manual transmission cars with more than 6 gears when automatics are like +8? Do they think people wouldn't be willing to drive/buy it, or is it more complicated than that?

costs basically, they don't think there's enough a market out there for them to put money into designing a tranny

A vee-ayt sounds cool but I'm worried about muh MPGs since it'd be a daily.
And If I was going to bump it up to a v8 I feel like I'd be better off saving up for something like an SS or a Jag XF.

dude just get a corolla

If you want a sporty ride as well as good mpg, an ecoboost mustang might be your thing.

What should I be looking for when buying a single din head unit? I already have an amp, so I'm guessing that I don't need to worry about wattage. Any recommendations? Is Bluetooth audio quality as shitty as think it is? I mostly just want something that can plug my phone or music drive into so I don't have to use CDs anymore.

I can't find this drivers side vent window latch anywhere for muh Cherokee, is there such a thing like a dome cap with a thread on the flat side that I can just put rubber grommets on each side and reuse this piece?

Attached: JPEG_20180320_234606.jpg (2988x3984, 3.46M)

fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/d/86-toy-mr2-90k-recent-brakes/6507964986.html

is this worth taking a closer look at?

Just use a small suction cup and an acorn nut to pinch the window.

Damn it answer me you shits

Acorn nut was what I had in mind, but whats the suction cup for?

Attached: ventwindow.jpg (800x600, 99K)

So I had new tires put on my wife's SUV and I've had weird vibrations at different times, sometimes braking, sometimes on turns, sometimes while accelerating. I thought it might be a balance issue, but I had them rebalanced and the problem is still there. What other possibilities are there? Alignment maybe? The old tires were 235/60's and the new ones are 65's if that may be a factor.

Best I can do m8.

youtube.com/watch?v=aKkRtIp4m1s

For those of you who detail, how do you wash your microfiber mitts and waffle weave towels? I used to be a cheap ass and just get some random bulk microfiber towels, but I decided to up my game and actually use decent stuff instead of shitty throw away towels.

Attached: 1360297241905.gif (100x100, 80K)

Since you already have an amp, then the head units wattage doesnt matter as much, so try and find something that you like and has the features you want. I'd recommend going to Crutchfield just to look, and then going elsewhere to buy, because they have shitty prices but a great search function that is dedicated to car audio.

Now coming from an audiophile, yes Bluetooth sucks. If you dont mind having an AUX cord floating around in your car, then thats preferred, but honestly, even for me, the convenience of BT out weighs its less than stellar sound quality.

a lot of them are machine washable. at one of my jobs they used a washing machine with delicate soap and then they used a centrifuge to remove most of the water. actually they worked better when damp then they did when bone dry

you've got a bad bushing somewhere

Thanks. Do you know of any brands that aren't saturated with autism lights?

That's the real problem. I cant think of any off the top of my head, and the ones that do exist usually cost an arm and a leg unfortunately. They are especially hard to find in single din.

Personally I have a pretty basic bitch Kenwood single din in my Miata, and to make it look less gaudy I just made the color of the lights match the dash lights and turned the brightness down so that its less noticable.

I just saw this while driving around earlier and really liked the look of it, didn’t have much time to get a better pic, but I was wondering if anyone had any idea what it could be.

Attached: 62433BFE-A482-4740-ADC4-CBCED4DFA609.jpg (1380x739, 230K)

Thx for your help m80

theres diagrams that explain tire wear you can look up. i would guess worn tierods/ball joints or bad alignment

mercedes G wagon

Thank you kindly

when adjusting timing, which way is retarded and which way is advanced? firing order rotates clockwise

moisture in the fuel lines froze?

you need to get some hub rings and re-torque after 50 miles

Actually pretty informative, thanks

I'm buying a $30k car off cars.com, is there anything I should know? It's out of state and a bank is selling it, some guy could no longer afford his payments or some shit like that is what I think is happening.

What is the maximum current I can safely get through an aluminum 11AWG cable? The length is 1 meter (3 feet).
Some people say 15 Amp will be OK, some say it's the limit and I should put a 10 amp fuse to avoid damaging the cable.

I'll find my dad's torque wrench and try that first, but after doing 5 seconds of research, are hub rings needed on the stock wheels?

Sounds scarier than what other user said, would that be something the tire guy could screw up when he mounted the new tires? Cuz there wasn't an issue on the old tires. I'll look into it if the hub rings/retorqueing that other user suggested doesn't resolve it.

Thanks

What's more fun, a mini cooper jcw or a brz? The mini cooper has more horsepower, torque, no torque dip, and less weight but the brz has rwd

Attached: 0a216b0ea826c6c926c4c8e2ae92b80f.jpg (722x1043, 399K)

My CV joints are going bad, but I plan on buying a new car in like three or four months.
How dangerous is it to ignore?
They pop pretty loud when I make a tight turn.

why the fuck is auto insurance so expensive for me? i did a quote for geico and i would have to pay 536 a month for a 2 door toyota celica 2003. i'm trying to buy my forst car but honestly this puts a stop too my plans for how expensive it is. is there any way to get cheaper insurance for the car? i'm 20 and i've had my license for about 2-3 years now and i have been driving my mom's car without being signed up under her insurance when i first started driving and had no accidents.

How do I know it's time to replace my brake rotors before it's too late?

Can I change u-joints without a vice?

Can I get some opinions about strut bars?
Are they worth getting or not?
Do they affect ride quality?

>536 a month
daym. that's pretty high for a shitbox. But, you're the absolute highest risk category.

be sure you have a $500 or $1000 deductible, and you don't need comprehensive insurance, just liability.

Try Mercury Insurance, they're pretty cheap.

anyone been to a used tire shop? around how much would a set of 14's be? my tires almost look like slicks so i really need new ones, but im not sure if ill have enough for a set. current spare has a hole so i was thinking of just buying a new spare for if one does pop before i can buy a full set. can i trade in my tires at a used tire shop for a slight discount on a new set?

exactly what i thought. my friend whos around the same age is paying 50 bucks a month for insurance since the car is under his grandparents name along with the insurance and he's just an add on. would i be able to do something like that?

>500 a month for a 15 year old car
its a wonder why people drive without insurance, its almost like its a massive scam and tons of people cant afford to pay 2x the cars value just for 6 months of insurance (500/mo * 6 = 3k, celica shouldnt be much more than 2k IMO)
also if that celica isnt a gts it can fuck right off, lower trims arent fun at all and are more like basic bitch cars IMO. the gts can accel pretty fast for a cheap shitbox, they have roughly a 6 sec 0-60 depending on the year.
and for cheap insurance, keep it pre 2000, 4 door, and low displacement (probably below 2 liters). also avoid civics, i havent gotten quotes on them myself but hundreds of young guys buy them and then crash them, causing rates to go up. some canadian user was quoted at over 1k a month i think for an early 2000s civic for that reason.
> i did a quote for geico
getting a quote from one of the most well known insurance companies ends up being expensive? what else is new. geico, state farm, progressive, etc. all fuck you hard compared to lesser known companies or ones that are only online/on a mobile app like Root. Travellers insurance was pretty cheap when i had my celica, like $150 a month for an 02 i think? i had 2 or 3 discounts on there tho so it came out to just over 600 for 6 months. look into getting a plan with your moms company, youll both be eligible for extra discounts like homeowner, multi car, etc. (assuming she owns the house). ask her/her agent about that, get a quote with all those discounts on there, then compare it to a lesser known company like Mercury or Travellers. You can try Root, its a mobile app, but you have to do a test drive for them with the app open, meaning you need to have access to the car you want to insure. you could probably set everything up and then do the test drive for the app while test driving the car and decide if you want to buy after the app gives you a quote

You can put them in a washing machine just do not, i repeat DO NOT wash them together with your clothes. And DO NOT use the dry washing chems. Use any fluid washing chems.

If you get an oscillation when applying the brakes, you have a warped rotor. If you have a warped rotor, it needs replacement. I would do this in pairs (front or back) and replace the pads at the same time.

Do not let anyone "turn" your rotor. This is a process of machining the rotor to restore it. They will re-warp within a few miles and removing metal will make them unsafe (in my opinion).

Depending on the car this can be expensive, but don't mess around; brakes are too important to just let them fail.

Thanks for the help but my mom is in a tough place with insurance as well since her current car broke down due to a mechanical problem and now they're charging her 200 extra for it even though it doesn't run at all and she's paying a total of$500 a month for that car. She's also had a history of accidents so I don't think going in with her insurance is going to be better.ill definitely try the less known companies and see how it goes. I swear this all seems like a big fucking scam. If I can't get anything cheap, how easy is it to drive without insurance in South Florida? Do they do audits or something

I would drive very gently and refrain from cornering at high speed. It's only slightly dangerous. A failure probably won't make you lose control of the vehicle, just render it inoperable. If you hear a pop and lose drive, it went.

If it were me I wouldn't put money into it.

That's pretty much what I wanted to hear.
I'll refrain from hooning till I get something new.
Thanks user.

auto.bg/pcgi/gallery.cgi?adv=11521466755930532&searchres=wecu2og1

Excuse the third world website, but should I ironically buy this old school angry adidas twingo for ~400 euro?

>how easy is it to drive without insurance
pretty easy until you get hit and have to decide to play it cool and then bolt and hopefully not have anyone follow you and get your plates, or bolt right then and probably have someone follow you and get your plates. some states send a warning letter like "hey we see this car doesnt have insurance, you arent driving it right?" but as long as a cop doesnt get you and you dont hit anyone youll be fine. until one of those 2 things happens
>my mom has a history
theres a difference in getting your own plan or getting on hers, /usually/ getting on her plan would be cheaper. in this case itll probably be about the same either way. you should both still be eligible for those few discounts i mentioned if you both live in the same house, the only differnece being that if you have your own plan the title has to be in your name. if you join her plan it has to be in her name. i had to deal with this when i was still living with my mom, as soon as the agent said the title had to be in her name i noped the fuck out. she was a petty bitch and i just knew she would pull some shit like taking the keys and saying "you arent driving /my/ car" even though she didnt pay for any of it. got the title in my name and my own plan, and we both still got homeowner and multi car discounts. should work the same for you, but ask her agent to be sure

>If I can't get anything cheap, how easy is it to drive without insurance in South Florida? Do they do audits or something

well it's illegal. if your in your 20s, driving a shitbox you will be pulled over is SFL. I wouldn't risk it more than once or twice.

you need to get multiple quotes.

call a local insurance broker, explain that you simply need the cheapest possible auto ins for an old beater. they'll at least be able to pull a couple of quotes. you don't want a "state farm" guy or other captive broker, you need an independent guy. they're not hard to find, but don't expect great service because they're not going to get paid shit on your policy.

ins costs are usually broken down by the components of the coverage: liability, uninsured motorist, collision or comprehensive. The majority of your cost is in liability. You can shop around to see which company has the lowest liability, but there won't be too much of a difference.

again, you only need the minimum legal coverage, so be sure to state that when you talk to anyone about it.

15 amp fuse should be fine. A 3 foot wire (of that type) would most likely be fine for up to 20 amps, but I wouldn't recommend it.

>homeowner and multi car discounts

bit of a scam honestly. you can almost always shop the coverage around a find an equal or lower price from another carrier. It's just a marketing trick.

what they're doing is simply discounting the lower margin auto insurance business and picking up the profit off of your homeowners insurance or boat, bike etc.

for me personally, a bundled package costs much more than separate policies from multiple carriers, and that's not really uncommon.