/CCG/ Classic Car General

/CCG/ Classic Car General

"Google search results for 'cheap rust repair'" Edition

>Rats Suck Ass
>California Sucks ass
>Rust sucks a hairy ass

Incoming pasta:

>Cars are considered """classic""" at 25 years old, but a vehicle really needs that certain something to be classic and, no, your shitbox 1993 Honda Miata is not a classic.

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age or rarity.

>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses, don't get butthurt.

>Any and all classics welcome regardless of nationality.

>Performance > Cosmetics

>Metal > Plastic

>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.

>It's perfectly fine to use RTV. Ignore the haters.

>If you see rust there is probably more.

>Rust and bodywork are by far the most difficult thing to repair.

>Electrical work is second most difficult.

>The hardest part of an engine swap is getting the wiring sorted out.

>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay somebody to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or greater of the work or you will go broke.

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience under your belt. If all the salty old hands agree, it's probably true.

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who /oldjap/ here

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I wish, an old 240z would make me a very happy man

Calling all trans am/Camaro bros. For those with stock auto shifters, how heavy does it feel?

The 79s seemed heavier than any other auto I've ever driven, though it did move smoothly and settle into each spot well.

Finally finished the rebuild on my Spitfire differential, going to go in the car probably Sunday. At some point the car had a 4.11 rear put in and with the rebuild it's going back to the original 3.89.

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Mein neger. Just finished the final install of the new gears on my bronco. Finally got everything right after endless issues. 4.11 to match the rear. How much trouble did it give you?

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Th350? Original trans?

Im happy for you. You completed the hardest task in the automotive world. Personally i sat and cries, Called tech support, and contemplated suicide over the second hardest task. I think im getting the hang of it though

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Not much trouble really. Hardest thing really was getting the pinion preload right with the new crush collar. The backlash was a little annoying since it's set with shims, so there was a little trial and error of moving shims around until the backlash was right. But that was less annoying that the pinion.

The pinion gave me fits too. That was where all my time went. Glad you got yours together.

Thanks man. Not to toot my horn, but I'm pretty good at electrical. If you need some help, I might be able to guide you somewhat. Granted, this is over the internet on a generic harness on a car I'm not familiar with. But I'll try.

Spending the night at my parents house. I confirmed that I did in fact purchase a 73 ranchero, it was not a dream. I love this thing more and more every time I see it.

Going to drain the fuel tank tomorrow and get some good gas in it. Maybe take a look at the carburetor and the ignition system. See if I can't get it running better.

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Oh dude forget about it. Those things were build for slow cruising from my understanding. Super Sluggish slow shifts are the norm and it'll stay in second for eeeeeeveeeerrrr. The truest definition of a slushbox. Transgo shift kit and adjustable modulator will clear that right up. Putting in the street fighter with the shift kit, manual-auto valve body, and adjustable modulator made it feel like a whole different car.

I appreciate the offer. I got the thing routed. I will just need to find out how all the switches are wired up

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I’ve got a 1980 280ZX, but I dont know if that’s considered old by your standards

To completely contradict myself: last weekend my camaro was feeling sluggish and shitty like a barge just like u described and it was shifting late and sluggish too. The th350 runs on vacuum signal and needs I believe like 17 inches to shift properly. Due to my emissions woes, stuck choke and massive vacuum leaks it wasn't getting enough and that was fuckin with the transmission signal. So it could be a slow shitty th350, or it could be that the engine has some internal issues that would cause it to not put out sufficient vacuum like a leak or timing or misfire or faulty vacuum operated components stuck open or closed. Is it a q-jet? Because when I had to set my q-jet I disconnected vacuum advance, hooked up a vacuum gauge and adjusted the mixture screws till best idle and highest vacuum. Could be a similar mixture issues cause u too have low vacuum and operate sluggishly.

I'm about to experience true slushbox for the first time in my life. It just dawned on me that every classic car I've ever driven has been manual. It looks like my ranchero has a c6. How slush boxy were they? Do a decent shift kit exist for it?

It's an 84, not sure if you consider the old squarebody chevy/GMC trucks classic. The day I brought it home 5 years ago and now it's a nice LS swapped daily driven (patina) truck.

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DMV says 25 years and older can get "historic" plates, also exempt from import laws. It's a classic.

The only classic ive ever driven was my dads bronco and it was a manual. I wonder what those old terrible 60s automatics felt like


anyone who says otherwise should sit in the corner facing the wall

soon :^)

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If it's in good shape it won't be too bad.
The C6 is probably one of the best auto transmissions ever made. If it does give you issues find a good transmission shop that has been in business for a while and have them build it, the last few I've had done were $500 for a full rebuild plus a shift kit.

Or you can build it yourself if you are brave enough...

I wish. Still only /oldamerican/

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Unfortunately it probably wouldn't pass for historic plates, but I get a ton of attention at every show/ cruise in. I'd have to return it back to stock height probably and don't feel like it for a plate.

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I'd rather face the wall than have to look at a hood buckled in the middle and some of the shittiest interior components ever put in an automobile.

Oh, no, I'm talking about moving the shifter from Park to drive. All I'm used to are modern autos that have a light touch to them. This would be my 1st floor shifter auto classic.

Other than that, some beauty marks, and a slight coolant leak from a loose hose, the thing looks and drives awesome.

My personal definition of 'classic' is having chrome bumpers

Inb4 scrubs with "classic" 1993 Hondas come to debate me

I believe the guy said it's a 4bbl edle, I think 750? I'll have to check it out.

From what I remember, some of the extra parts that come with it are a spoiler, stock 4bbl, magna flows, ac compressor, an extra shaker, and a contact number for a trans am junkyard near by which I might hit up for a replacement dash and new front seats.

Also, anyway to lift the gas pedal? Seemed awfully deep in the foot well with not a lot movement room. Could just be a culture shock since I've grown accustomed to barge like designs instead of "sport cars"

I'm pretty sure all you need for historic plates is to ask for them, have a car old enough, pay the fee, and promise not to drive it in the winter. But my point was if it's old enough that the DMV considers it a classic, it's a classic.

Give it another few decades and 93 hondas will definitively be classics to younger generation.

Yeah I brace for the day when my son comes home with a "sick oldschool" 2003 camry

Another question about F bodies; do they all ride like shit? The Camaro slammed over speed bumps no matter what speed, but I chalked that up to the 3/4 ton rear end and suspension. The trans am didn't feel much smoother.

Once I've got all the bugs worked out, I gotta think of some sick mawds for it.
>Hi flow exhaust
>Aux cord, maybe a small sub
>Purple underglow to match.
Or green and call it the barny car.

if you put underglow on that fucking car i will find you and strangle you with some rusty baling wire

It's begging for it. Also needs to shoot purple flames when I rev it, and needs to be entered into illegal street races.

No, I'm talking about underglow for inside. I always like having a nicely lit interior when driving.

Just got a “92 Subaru loyale, I had a look at the timing belt today (pic related) “””apparently”””” it was changed about 5 years ago, does it need changing, how much of a priority should this be?

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you say that like its any better

go ahead and change it. i like to replace most if not all consumables upon purchase of a vehicle. things like fresh oil and fluids, belts, tires if needed, etc

How much of a headache is a timing belt change? I’m decent at wrenching but it’s been a while since I’ve done it regularly (pic is the car it’s self)

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To answer a question from the previous thread, a pushbutton 727 is a Torqueflite without park, but with a rear pump for push starts.

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I found some wild carpet and basically rebuilt the door panel what do you guys think

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what do you do with old gas after draining? last time i just left it in an old container to evaporate.

i seriously used to hate your nova, but it grows on me a little bit more everytime i see it. kind of

Got a 1980 two-door Civic. You replaced your headgasket and entire floorpan, yet?

Oh well fuck I don't know. My linkage feels smooth and crisp but it's a new transmission and I just re did it. Was it the his/hers? You can see the linkage under the transmission check for wear and corrosion or a blockage in the linkage. There's also am elbow and arm that go up to your steering column in the engine bay which turn on the reverse lights and lock the key in the ignition. Check that for binding

You guys want a real slushbox of a trans, just talk to the guy that drove a '58 Corvette with a 2 speed Powerglide from central PA to NJ for the first Dirty Jersey meet. He said it was the worst slushbox he's ever driven.

i like it, looking to getting my rotting one replaced/wrapped if its cheaper

I could just not be used to it is all. Can't wait to go pick it up Sunday or tonight.

Must of missed it in the other thread but, did you trade your dart? How did it work out?

They're not too bad if you've done wrenching before. Just be meticulous about it. Don't want to do that one twice because you forgot something. Read up on it beforehand and find an online how to if you can. Get a timing belt kit. Do the water pump with it.

But to be completely honest man, that belt really doesn't need to be replaced. It looks to be in good condition. Yeah sure it would be "a good idea" to do it since it's 5 years old but unless it cracking or oil soaked or the water pump is leaking, it's not necessary. If it was my car, I'd leave it. Focus on other necessities first. Then if you have a bug up your ass about it when that stuff is done, do it.

Still have the dart, in the process of selling it. Friday morning I had 3 highly potential buyers, now we'll see who actually pulls through.

I decided to jump on that purple 79 trans am and get back into the F bodies. I'm taking a day off of work next week to go transfer it to my name so I'll actually keep this one.

No they are smooth

I'm sketched about that car, it's had an engine swap and the car looks like it's seen some shit.
I guess we will know after you buy it.

The guy was adment about it not being a 403, so a 400 was probably swapped in which isn't a bad thing. The car was damn straight, and all the fender lips were smoother than my tacos. Only rust was a bubble on the hood, and a little in the trunk lid. I checked all the usual spots and it was solid metal. Underside looked very clean. My best guess is someone just wanted the 400 in it (either after blowing a 403 or hated the 301), and made the dumb idea to get it painted purple. Interior shows it's age, but that's about it.

I'll get the engine code once I pick it up.

Guy knew his trans am though. He has a collection of every generation at his place, and they're all in driver condtion.

Is there anything inherently wrong with engine swaps? You guys seem to talk down about it. I understand that buying a used car with an engine swap carries the risk that things weren't done properly, but if i where to buy a v6 or 305 v8 car and put a 350, wouldn't it be a net positive? Especially if it wasn't worth that much to begin with.

Ok, something isn't adding up. Can someone help me decide this Vin?

2W87W9N190622. It's that 2nd W that is tripping me up.

Nvm, I found a more detailed site. It was originally a 301 engine.

I think it's the fear of the unknown
>Was it done correctly?
>Why was it done?
>What's the history of the engine?

That, and Cutlass is our token Boomer; he likes things stock, original, and unmolested. If something passes his approval, it's gotta be good.

Shit nigga my camaros engine swapped probably. I'm pretty sure it was a 305 and now it has a c3 350 with my laundry list of mods. Doesn't matter if u don't have a computer

The only experience I have with a C6 was in an '85 F250 diesel.

>Set off
>Gentle on the throttle because muh economy
>Get to 45MPH
>Still in 2nd gear
>Cruising at 50MPH
>Completely let off accelerator
>It finally shifts

But other than that it was a decent trans. Not near as slushy as say, a Toyota automatic.

Thanks, how long do you expect it will take to do a timing belt?

Having two cams will always make it take longer, and so will doing it on a new car.
So expect an hour or two, plus a few more for learning and making DAMN sure the timing marks line up where they're supposed to be after a few revolutions.
The hardest part will be lining the marks up while accounting for taking the slack out of the belt. It might look a tooth off when you first put the belt on but line up perfectly when it's tensioned.
That there is where the extra cam makes it a bit more difficult lol.

Hey dudes,

I recently just purchased an 83 ltd vic coupe. I was just wondering if I can do a rear diff swap from a 2010 p71 with the 3.55 tracloc (posi)? The car is a 2bbl 302 if y'all wonderin

Nice man. I'm debating on my next LS swap being a mid 2000's Colorado or a square body for a daily

Id love to see another LS swapped square body LM7 master race

pretty sure I've seen this car irl before... near SIUE

Hell yeah

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It was my first ever LS swap, did it 4 years ago and it's been my daily ever since. Did my father's 68 firebird as well (It wasn't all original so it didn't matter) and doing an 86 s15 jimmy right now for the old man to daily drive.

Im in the same boat. The chevy (not pontiac) 350 in the car was seized and it had a turbo 350 not a good combo for a daily anyway. So i bought a wrecked silverado, parted it out till im left with 360 dollar lm7 engine and 4L60E transmission with 63k miles. Im getting the wiring sorted and this whole case is almost surreal. I have my dads first car and im doing basically what he did in the 80s. Pic related was the donor truck. RIP

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eyyy i got a ? for you.

On a Corvair carb does the idle mixture screw turn out for richening?

So the entire left bank isn't firing. No wonder it felt so dead on power. I got new gas in it. There's a receipt dated for 1997 in the glove box for points/condenser and it still looks new. It went off the road in 2000 and was parked. The distributor cap looks completely shot. Arced onto the plastic and burned out. I pulled one of the plug wires off a cylinder on the left bank and it started trying to fire on those cylinders. The spark felt weak as fuck though when it shocked me.

So Im thinking new plugs, wires, dizzy cap/rotor and ignition coil for starters and then see what it's running like. I think the points are okay just based on the service history and how it looks, but I know almost nothing about points.


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Well this sucks. Guy took a personal check and I can pick up the car once it clears... Buuuut... Since it's a TX check in MS, it'll take till Wednesday. I want the car now!

go electronic as soon as possible.

Also check, just to be sure, that the valvetrain for the left bank is operating correctly.

Out is rich

Finally warm enough to put motor in car. I got the transmission on the cross member but I went upstairs to answer a phone call. On the way down to the garage I fell down a flight of stairs and bashed my head on something (can't remember) I think i have a minor concussion, Still dizzy and have a decent headache.

Thanks m88.

damn now everyone is dying.


Thanks for the tip. I'll pull the valve cover if it's still not working after the new ignition parts.

Exhaust manifold gaskets are leaking horribly. Surprisingly the cooling system holds fluid and it's not leaking oil too much. The exhaust manifolds look like a bitch to get off with the engine in the car. The whole motor/trans is going to have to come out at some point anyway. I just want to get it running correctly first, make sure it isn't completely trashed. It's hard to know what to do first.

Damn dude. Go to the doctor asap, don't die.

Sounds like a good starting point, however I would add a new condenser to that list just in case, but I wouldn't change it unless I was sure the old one is bad.
Also if you plan on running points long term I would recommend you acquire a dwell meter.
Points can be a bit of a pain to get "right" but there is absolutely nothing wrong with them despite what everyone wants you to believe.
Points will always get you home, an electronic module not so much....

Could you maybe point out to me in a picture what a condenser? If you can. Sorry, I work on new stuff. Not really familiar in detail with old technology. I probably will eventually go to electronic ignition. I just want to see if I can get it running on all 8 first.

Also, anybody know of a good guide to deleting all of the emissions equipment? This shit has to go. Taking up way too much space.

Fug. Sorry for the double post. Did a little walk around video of the Ranchero. How bad is it guys? Think it's salvageable? Please be patient with me, I have autism.


Between and rust how do you manage to sleep at night /CCG/?

Parts on old cars are cheap, and you can easily fix them yourself. How do you sleep at night, knowing how much computerization is on modern cars? How much the parts are, and how difficult they are to replace?

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The condenser is a little can with a wire sticking out of it inside the distributor, across from the points.

I like to think there's a sweet spot from the mid 80s to the mid 90s. That and motorcycles in general.

Don't like modern cars either, my man.

I agree, I grew up with distributors and EFI. However, small block Chevy V8’s are god tier easy to service, along with the Datsun L series straight 6’s

>Audi: would anyone like a powerful V8 in their German sedan?

>Customers: just fuck my shit up

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Hey Lux, I found a paint scheme for the ranchero

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squarebody's were made when trucks were still just bare bones workhorses. not the chrome plated plastic covered shite they build today. so yeah, the interiors are kinds shoddy but that's part of the minimalist appeal.

I'm new to /CCG/, did i do good?
Got it for free, was my great grandfather's

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Pic dump incoming

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3/6 wont post because the file is too large

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1968 C10, of course you did good. The factory motors are kinda wimpy, but decent workhorses and easily modified.

nice one m8


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I've fallen in love with the short back long front older cars, you guys have any recommendations? I've been looking at the second generation trans am's, but I know there're more cars with similar body types.

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I dunno if my concussion brain is making me see things but I got the motor in and it seems to be sitting closer to the driver's side firewall.

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>great grandfather
damn im getting old

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any of the late 70's full size cars have those proportions.
Behold this 1977 Grand Prix.

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