So my truck's frame was sprayed with that hard rubber rustproofing by the first owner, at the dealer...

so my truck's frame was sprayed with that hard rubber rustproofing by the first owner, at the dealer. Now some of the coating is peeling, and I see surface rust underneath (keep in mind the rustproofing was applied like 12 years ago). In other areas of the truck, the coating seems to be holding up

If I get rid of the coating that's coming off, and put POR15 on the exposed areas, would this be enough to at least slow down the rust? I live in worst case Ontario so it's salt central during the winter. What if I leave the intact coating on? am I taking any chances? should I peel it all off and put POR15?

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Knock the loose shit off and oil undercoat it

wire brush/wheel to rusty areas, apply rust converter, undercoat. i live in chicagoland which is notorious for being a salty hellhole and my nip barge made it through winter without so much as a flake of rust. you do have to be sure to wash the frame frequently when driving through salty slush though.

Hello fellow worst caser.

This factory rust proofing stuff is good for maybe a decade, and after that it becomes a source of headache. I bought and owned for a while a 1992 Corolla as a derby car, this was around 2007. The floor/frame had rotted from the inside out, because after a while this type of coating gets cracks in it from age and wear, moisture gets in, it gets trapped, and eventually rots shit away. By the time it starts really peeling off, the damage has been done to the metal.

I'm having the exact same issue with this one 1994 Protege I own as a beater. Factory rust proofed, but its all old and coming off and now the underbody is fucked. The best coatings are oil based spays. They are messy as fuck, but help greatly with the salt if you spray in all the right places.

Even then, oil based spray will only slow rust down. The aforementioned Protege was also Krowned for a few years but after all this time it still got some bad cancer in some areas. You simply can't drive cars you really love in our winters. You can only slow it down.

loose as in, stuff you can peel with your hand or whatever comes out with the wire brush after a pass or so?

I don't mind getting dirty but I don't want to get into a hot mess that would take me days. I Krown the truck religiously and previous owner also put some sort of oil rustproofing so there's a thick layer of oil down there

I wash the truck every change it goes above freezing temp. I also have a jap truck

as far as I can tell its surface rust.

surface rust is ezpz to deal with. you'll never stop it completely but diligence and thorough care will slow it down nearly to the point of being unnoticeable.

I've oiled it and so did the previous owner so all in all it is still in pretty good condition as far as I can tell

Are you going to remove the old rust proofing?

how do I deal with it

>get loose rubber shit off with wire brush on 5 inch angle grinder
Then either
>paint surface rust in rust converter and check up on it every now and then
>take it back to bare metal and paint with bitumen based shit
>check up on it in a couple of years

>Are you going to remove the old rust proofing?
This Protege is 24 years old and has two really bad areas on the frame. Its getting patchy as fuck everywhere else now as well, since it hasn't been oiled in about 3-4 years as I knew it wasn't worth the money spent at Krown to spray it anymore (which was about $70 because I have them do the underbody only). Piece of shit won't even pass an e-test every two years without a new cat, as it keeps oil fouling it because it burns oil. This car is toast.

There's a still active recall on older Tundra's and Tacoma's for this.

The dealer swaps in a new (less rust prone) frame.

I'm no longer covered by the recall, and I wouldn't have qualified anyway because your frame had to have holes in it. I got the frame checked just before the expiration

>I Krown the truck religiously

Inside and out? Its important to get the stuff not only on the surface but inside the frame and panels.

>take it back to bare metal and paint with bitumen based shit

Bitumen/rubber wont stop shit. You have to use some rustproof primer, or other actual rustproof stuff underneath it. POR15 or something similar.

>I wouldn't have qualified anyway because your frame had to have holes in it.

So your car has to be dangerously compromised until they recall it? Fucking Toyota, man.


that looks horrid honestly.

I have a 25+ y/o dodge that lives at the beach and I just recently dropped POR-15 on it and am pretty happy with it so far. It was nowhere close to the shitshow win your OP though.

Weird thing is. The black paint turns to this weird brown rust that comes off in you fingers. once you wipe it off it looks lack again. I'm assuming this is the old rust being converted and pushed out.

Who knows though.

Looks pretty fucked up man, rust is like cancer, its much deeper into the metal than you think

that's not my truck

inside and out

not "dangerously", as in IIRC a single hole due to rust would've gotten you a brand new frame

If the rust is underneath the underseal then there is no way we can tell how deep it really goes. It's had years to grow without being noticed.

You might be fine op.

But you might also be fucked.

Best bet is to just go trade it in at your freindly neighborhood dealer. If your lucky you'll get a few hundred on trade and only have to put down 11k to lock in a 29% interest rate on a 10yr loan on a $65k half ton v6 base model 2wd factory buy back. If you let the salesman fuck your wife you may get down to 28% buts thats risky.
Por15 is only good with a great prep job in my experience. Some kinda metal prep for rust then rubberized under coat works ok just need to touch it up every year. Im not convinced you can ever win with rust just delay your fate.

Bullshit. If water can't get in, it will be fine.

>Por15 is only good with a great prep job in my experience.
They tell you not to prep so I didn't beyond scraping dirt/grime off.