BRZ Sucks

you should stop abusing that poor car

It’s hilarious. Aside from obv being slow as fuck, they’re built so cheaply. I could see it justified if it packed something better than a glorified golf cart motor. Only priced so high because “two doors? rwd? dat’s a sports car!! hurr hurr”

Sorry guys, new car to me and haven't driven manual since 2012 and that was only for a few weeks. Getting back into it though. And yeah, I'm just shifting slow but that's why I said the car is no fun unless you're shifting fast, I just don't have the confidence to shift that fast on short city roads yet, I'm fine on the highway.

But I love the car, the driving position, the power, the drop a gear and disappear, and how it corners unbelievably flat. I can't wait to modify it but a part of me wants to leave it stock and maintain it because it's so pure.

They're comparable power wise to other family sedans in the $25k range, and more powerful than shitty econoboxes. They're priced just where they should be. If you can't buy it new then buy it used, way cheaper. They're not expensive to maintain either, and nearly everything is aftermarketable for less. There are so many guides to do everything yourself. This car is going to be like the next Civic for car guys I think, just much more rare.

Was the 240sx overpriced when launched?

>”the power”
>”drop a gear and disappear”
kek

Give it some gas to rev match while you're shifting

Lmao. Power, that’s a good one.

My 20 year old Volvo is faster than any BRZ86 on the road kek

Even if it was (don’t know), it didn’t come with an absolute dud of an engine in a body the size of a shopping cart.

Yeah, It came with a literal truck engine.

I just test drove the 2017 special edition toyota 86 (automatic) and i really liked it. Was faster than i expected. $29k is kinda pricey but very seriously considering it.

because you are poor

It's one of the most fun cars on the road and can easily make 350HP. For $27k plus another 10-15k you can have one of the best handling and fastest cars on the planet. Way more enjoyable than all the pigfat, American meme muscle cars.

D E D I C A T E D C H A S S I S

I would way rather buy a used AP2 maybe spend the extra cash on a hard top and some light mods

What mods?

yikes

Just get a GTI

Dont get the 2017 86, get the 2017 BRZ if you're looking new or slightly used because the BRZ has the most features, the 86 is the most overpriced one. You can get a new or slightly used 17BRZ for the same price as the base model 86, and even the Special Edition 86 doesn't have all the bells and whistles of the higher trim BRZ.
I love my pigfat American cars too, I prefer larger cars and that's why this BRZ is just a weekend car. I want to buy a big SUV or sedan for a daily after the Summer is over.

>27k+15k
>42k
>spending $42,000 on an 86
can’t tell if troll

>can easily make 350hp
yup troll

Not OP, but I owned a MKV GTI before I bought an FRS, and this care is way more fun. Not as fast, but it handles so much better.

Also fuck VW "Quality" In 6 years I had a dozen things fail, thankfully most were warranty, haven't had a single issue with the FRS yet other than a seal on the tail light that toyota replaced no questions asked

>automatic

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>Dont get the 2017 86
Ive read that brz is not as reliable as the toyota though

Ill be daily driving and honestly the shift paddles on the auto were plenty of fun. Ive barely driven manual so my plan was try the auto and maybe get the manual but i think i like the auto just fine.

how many dicks can you fit in your vagina at once?

Do you rev-match?? or just downshift it without giving it any gas lmao

>$13,499 USD for liftback trim in 1990
>$26,385 USD in 2018
almost exactly the same slot

I dont see why you care so much if i drive a manual or an automatic. I found the auto fun.

Oh also seems all the brz's around denver right now are manual so since i was looking at the auto initially at least just went for 86.

Don't they say that the 240z was priced modestly? In fact, don't they say the brz is also a good price as far as new cars go?

Auto can be fun, but when I tried auto on this car it just didn't feel that way to me.

Nice Corolla coupe.

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The auto is fine, it's not the shittiest auto, I honestly wouldn't mind either. If it was a daily for me I'd get the auto too.

A prius would spank this particular auto. I personally believe this is the worst auto on the market today

I see these threads often and I will say the same thing I always do.

>205 bhp

The discussion ends there. No one gives a flying fuck about a balanced chassis or good steering. The same can be had in a $2k NA Craigslist Miata

And yet they still sell new miatas, and with the brz you can go grocery shopping if you need to.

Seriously, the 86/brz is way more practical and gives almost the same driving experience as the miata yet everyone loves the miata but constantly bitches about the yoga. Stop expecting the supra mkiv, that's not what this is

Can someone post that picture comparing specs of a brz/86 to a van?

>more practical 2 door sports car
Lmao if you're using this kind of car to get groceries

The old ones were too far apart so every time you shifted, you were out of the power band. The new ones are apparently better. I'm not interested until it has some kind of forced induction to give the anemic 2.5 some help.

inb4 subs r 4 autox

If you're using it as a daily compared to a roadster, its a world of difference

>Buy BRZ
>Store it for 30 years
>Sell it for a ton of $$$ as clean, one owner car with no mods after every other one is killed by abuse

Its going to be the Honda CRX and original AE86 all over again.

Learn to rev match you melon

I really don't know why they gave it such a shit engine. The headline power figures are worse than a 20 year old K20A, and it's harder to mod

wages havent matched inflation though.

Stop letting niggers from shitting out babies.

Can you explain how to rev match exactly, for example going from gear 1 to 2 I depress the clutch then blip the throttle WHILE pulling the gear down from 1 to 2 or do I depress the clutch then blip the throttle then move the gear from 1 to 2?

What's wrong with getting groceries? It's a pretty good way to enjoy zipping around in a modestly powerful car that likes to be tossed around in the course of having to go about your daily life.

FOR EVERYONE LOOKING FOR A BRZ

JUST GET A 987

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no one cares what you validation seeking manual cucks think

>serious question
>bait
I'm not baiting, I genuinely want to know because the YouTube videos are shit and dont tell you if it's during clutch depression or if it's a sequence of steps.

Blip while shifting so that when you release the clutch the rpms are already at/close to speed for the new gear.Shifting up (1-2) is a small blip to keep the engine from dropping to idle. Shifting down will be a bigger blip.

rev-matching is about finding the exact bite point of the throtthle for each specific gear.
that way you don't under or over-rev

you don't really need to blip on upshifts if you change quickly enough, on downshifts you blip the throttle to match your revs to the engine speed of the new gear
clutch in>blip+change gear>clutch up

>bite point
what? no, it's just about matching the speed of both clutch plates so they come together cleanly

How is dropping revs fast a bad thing?

It doesn't even drop fast. If you're in to skipping gears on upshifts sometimes you have to remind yourself to sit there and wait before shifting. Happens to me all the time going 3->5 or 3->6.

>flat four
>premium fuel
>like 200hp

Garbage.

I don't understand power determining price

>this engine has bigger cyllinders
>therefore, it costs more.

More like

>poor people aren't meant to have fast cars
>this gives them something to work towards
>*tips cowboy hat*
>*adjusts gold bolo tie*

>skipping gears
A sportscar should have close gears so this is inadvisable and unnecessary. Is it really geared like a fucking truck?

Depends what you're doing. If you want to get up to speed quickly, you wind up revving it up in the first two or three gears. But if you're just going around town or WOTing up to speed for the highway, then you might be at or near your desired speed by that point, and now you're ready to cruise in 5th or 6th.

On a track, no. But for DD, it's pretty easy to want to skip gears on the way up or down. The torque dip shows its ugly head in this regard especially, since there are plenty of times where if you only drop one gear you faceplant right into the torque dip, so you have to remember to drop two gears.

you really don’t have to blip the throttle when upshifting, user. assuming you do it all in one motion, just clutch in, shift up, clutch out, smoothly. now if you take too long you’ll have to rev a bit to match your speed.

But, maintenance will be much more on one off the same price

ayyy

I drive a 96 Prelude Si. 160hp 5speed. I have low compression on one cylinder. I can assure you, you shouldn’t have to “row through the gears” in the city in your 86.

They're close together due to the short final drive, there's a torque dip right in the middle, sometimes you have to work harder than you think you should if you want to match other cars with big lazy torque converters from stop lights rather than doing what feels natural, and overall it just makes you want to push it because that's when it goes from meh to fun.

I've spent some time in econoboxes and okayboxes from the 80s and 90s and there's just a different feeling to doing more than puttering along. Even in NYC of all places I wind up shifting all over the place for anything more than wading through thick, sludgy traffic.

a new Veeky Forumstist is born

ITT: Training Takumi2.2

I testdrove one, and a civic si. Why does the brz feel slower? Is there some good explanation for this?

Probably the torque curve. Don't be fooled by things like lower gearing and intake runners that are tuned for an initial grunt of power. Also note that what you feel in a car is called "jerk" in calculus. Its the acceleration of acceleration. So a car that gains revs at an exponential rate (even if only slightly exponential) will "feel" much much faster than a car that gains revs at a near linear rate. For "speed", look at the numbers. Also look at vehicle weight, distribution and wheel base. These are the things that should matter. For $1000 bucks you can get some headers and a tune and feel much faster than the civic probably and the car will run better anyway so . Try to buy off numbers and objective traits, car feel and "speed" are things you can get used to and/or modify.

Kek, it's true but car parts are expensive and I don't own a tofu shop where I have a savings account

>jerk
trufax.

If you load up a brz with people so you're always coming out of the torque curve instead of going in to it, then all of a sudden it starts to feel normal even just driving around casually.

is it true that these cars are going to plummet in value? I really want one

I don't know about plummet. They're edging closer to the $10k mark but I doubt they'll cross it for a another few years give or take.

they won't plummet. they're reliable, attractive, and easy to drive, and very fun. well kept versions should hold their value.

Their price will drop a bit if a new gen is to come out, but it will not plummet.

They won't drop below $10k, but if you actually want a decent one you'll be looking at $15k anyways. The ones getting close to $10k are high mileage and beat to shit.

It's also slower than a minivan

Ur nan is slower than my cawk

>It drops revs instantly
That is what an engine is supposed to do, otherwise you are forced to wait on upshifts for the revs to drop to the right speed. You should drive the car noth the other way around.

I'm getting better at learning where to rev until and shifting fast enough to the point where it's smooth. I'm really having trouble with going from 1 to 2 though, it's always bad the whole car shakes. And my down shifts are getting better but I can't do them fast enough like it's one after the other. I go from 5 to 4 to 3 and then coast from 3 to nearly a stop and shift to 1... But I think a few more days of driving and I'll have the basics down. Hope my clutch makes it that far, I'm pretty sure I've ruined it over the last few days. I'm getting better at using the hand brake to start on a hill though, the problem is that I feel like I'm giving too much gas and I always spin the tires and launch forward.

You do know you can control the revs during the shift using the accelerator pedal right?

I'm training my feet to do that now, revving up a little higher and then down shifting so I have more time to down shift, but also keeping the revs at specific numbers for upshifting. Today was my best day yet, getting used to how the car sounds and when/how fast to release the clutch after shifting. I just can't get from 1 to 2 without jerking like a mad man.

Do you think some type of shift knob upgrade or a short shifter would help?

You straight tarded

My ninja 300 dusted one when I was 2 gears up from my power band that had an exhuast and probably a cai

My ninja 300 is slow and stock

These cars are for tj hunt fanboys

240sx had an oversized, slowrevving, 150hp truck engine. Because Nissan didn't want to import the sr20. Even though they did in the Infiniti g20.

Bro you need to learn how a manual car works before you can habe an idea of where you need to shift. If your car is jerking around even slightly you are driving unsafe for city driving even more so for highway. Go to a parking lot and practice untill you can drive a car. This is all down to your experience being very very limited. You give your car gas so that you can spin the crank faster and create more torque and hp. When you shift you shift to either keep the rpms lower to save on gas or because you are out of the power band. When you say you downshift and suddenly go its because you dont have enough torque youre using a different gear to compesate for the gear you were in. This is true for every single car automatic and manual.

>Implying any pre-owned FRS or BRZ is "lightly used"

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In Australia these cost as much as a new SV6 Commodore (Like a V6 Chevy SS). Benefits of the Commodore;

>3.6 v6 instead of weak boxer 4
>same power to weight ratio, and way higher torque to weight ratio
>commodore only needs 91 unleaded, whereas BRZ needs 98 unleaded (most expensive fuel in australia, we have 91/95/98)
>commodore can comfortably seat 4 adults
>even though commodore is a bigger car with bigger engine, it is actually cheaper to run as it doesn't need high octane fuel
>commodore has a way nicer interior and way more modern features

That's Australia. You guys have high import fees, while the Commodore is built there isn't it? No shit. But it's really what you want. If you like the Commodore then get that, if you like the 86 then get that. I personally enjoy large coupes like the S63 AMG, BMW M6, etc. I only bought the 86 because I wanted to try a small sports car. Don't regret it, but I still prefer large land barges.

Australia barely taxes foreign built cars anymore, the only reason they cost a lot here is because German car companies know they can sell them at stupidly high prices and middle class people will pay for them because they're "premium" products with "german engineering" behind them.