How the FUCK do I know which is the best brand of oil to buy for my car

Anyone here increase the viscosity on older cars? 2001 Ford Taurus here. Car specifies 5w20 but just put 5w30 in it

Maybe you should spend more of your time doing research than saving epin brainlet wojak images.

They're all the same, your engine's gonna turn it black and sludgy after 10,000 miles anyway.

I do this, but I don't know if it helps at all, I also recently replaced the head gasket so probably not.

the right answer

Go buy Motul 6100 Synergie+

No japes its a damn good oil, expensive however

Does anyone use supertech unironically?
It doesn't even seem that good of a deal when brand name oil is only $1 more per quart.

dollar store brand

see

it's cheaper to wait for your local auto parts store's brand to go on sale. The dollar store sells 16oz "quarts"

Personally, i buy the cheap shit at napa when it goes on sale for $1.75-2.

But recently home depot had 8 gallons of mobil one for $13/5 quarts.

It's much more important to change it often, with a fresh filter, than it is to get a 'good brand' and run it for 10k miles, especially in situations where your oil temps are high, or you're running rich (such as cold startup)

putting the wrong viscosity in will damage your engine over time.

Here's the right answer:
1) Open the owners manual and find the optimum weights. Go to the store and price them out. Which one are you willing to change at a reasonable frequency? Best oil. Done
2) If 1 doesn't apply to you, somebody else should be changing your oil and they know better

Someone's never held together a 300k mile hyundai engine with straight 50 weight oil before.

guy i sold it to changed the oil to 10w-30 and blew it up 2 days later LOL

Someone doesnt know that running a 50w creates back pressure at the oil pump and lowers the oil pressure throughout the engine causing tons of wear on every fucking moving part and when the guy went back to the recommended oil there wasnt enough metal to hold the oil between the moving parts.

no, the sloppy ass bearings from a decade of missed oil changes were being held together by the thicker oil film.

Oil pressure drops as bearing clearance increases. Thick oil can hold shit together in certain circumstances.

Do you drive a subaru by chance?

>held together a 300k mile hyundai engine
>300k
>hyundai
user, that oil was the only thing keeping that car running

Literally the cheapest fully synthetic you can find, switch brands all the time and have multiple vehicles(gas) to 250k++. Change oil and filter every 3-4k and your set m8y

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ive put stuff such as supertech and 15w-40 diesel oil in my 2.9 ranger and it still runs fine

Ford specified 5w20 vs 5w30 for the .05 MPG improvement. The bearings and clearances are absolutely the same when they speced 5w30 as 5w20.

just use lube OP

Just get mobil one or penzoil or something jesus. There's like a 2% difference in quality between all brands that you'll never notice.

5w30 and 5w20 are nearly the same thing. Oil thickness is a temperature range, 5w30 is thinner than 5w20 when it's 15'c hotter.

5w20 for economy and better cold starts. 5w30 is for hotter climates. Both will be at the incorrect viscosity when you start your car and for the first 10min or so.

Fuel dilution is another thing, on modern civics will dilute a 0w20 down to a 0w12 at the end of an oil change cycle (so, 5k miles change is best for a new turbo civic). NA engines are less effected but a 5w30 sheers and dilutes down to 5w20 in the end.

0w20 on extended oil changes is why modern cars are burning so much oil.

I run this through my jeep, got 11 at this price on clearance. Seems to do pretty well on the stuff, cold starts are a bit shaky at idle for the first couple minutes though. First few changes were darkened oil, but now it's a lighter brown color at 5k miles intervals. 4.7 v8 burns a bit of oil but it did when I got it.

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Check your car's manual and see how it tests vs other oils:
540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Look at the 540RAT Oil Database for a list of oils ranked in order of test results. Oils are re-tested at semi-random times to update the database. That's because oil brands change their formula all the time and changes are not always for higher performance but to accommodate the market for best profit.

540RAT Oil Database:
540ratblog.wordpress.com/

The cheapest source of enough oil for an oil change are the 5 quart plastic jugs sold at wal-mart.

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Page navigation there is a nightmare. If you want to jump straight to the list look for
"The “WEAR PROTECTION RANKING LIST” itself, begins here:"

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This but Oreilly's high mileage synthetic.

Am I a retard?

become autistic and visit bobistheoilguy.com